Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels Lucerne October 2014 - March 2015 How locals survive winter Cheese fondue, fasnacht and Christmas markets What Lucerne loves Cosy bars, great restaurants and day trips to the snow FREE COPY inyourpocket.com N°3 Contents Arrival & Getting Around 5 Get your bearings City Basics 7 Facts, habits, attitudes History 10 Once upon a time Lucerne’s crazy carnival 11 Don’t be scared! It’s only fasnacht! Read all about it on p.11. Music, masks and partying at fasnacht Culture & Events Elge Kenneweg/Luzern Tourismus 12 Concerts, shows and exhibitions Quick picks 15 Lucerne in a nutshell Restaurants 23 Sightseeing 27 Churches, museums and city tours 16 Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more Cafés Nightlife Bars, pubs and clubs 22 Chocolate, coffee and conversation Old-town stroll 31 Lucerne for kids 32 Major fun for minor citizens Shopping 33 Local delicacies and Swiss design Watches & Jewellery 37 Where to find the one you’re loooking for Winter joys 40 Fondue cruise, ice skating and day trips to the snow Hotels 42 From cream of the crop to down to earth Maps & Index City map Street register Index Public transport map 46-47 48 49 50 Advertisement MARC O’POLO STORE Weinmarkt 6 6004 Luzern With a bit of snow, Lucerne’s landmarks look even prettier. For winter activities in the city, see p. 40. Emanuel Ammon/Luzern Tourismus facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket Weinmarkt 6 Luzern October 2014 - March 2015 3 Foreword Arriving & Getting Around Autumn and winter have a lot to offer in Lucerne. Ok, swimming in the lake is off the cards (for most of us), but there are plenty of other things to do. Take one of the lake cruises – they’re just as spectacular as in summer –, go skating near the KKL or plunge into real winter on one of the nearby mountains (p. 41)! Publisher pocket publishing GmbH Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zürich tel. +41 32 510 85 76 switzerland@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.ch Published 3 times per year, 90 000 copies ISSN 2296-8598 © pocket publishing GmbH 2014 Temperatures from December to March are often under 5°C, but on a sunny day even having a drink outside can be very pleasant. When you feel like warming up indoors, a meal of cheese fondue is sure to make you glow inside (p. 19). Or else enjoy the town’s cosy bars or the local spa options. If your timing is right, you can join in two colourful local traditions: the Christmas markets (p. 36) and Lucerne’s huge carnival, fasnacht (p.11). Both give a shine to even the darkest winter days! Editorial office Lucerne Lucerne In Your Pocket, c/o KulturKopf GmbH Winkelriedstrasse 36, 6003 Luzern lucerne@inyourpocket.com Editors Kathy Bajaria & Chris Young Research Lukas Füglister, Corinne Imbach Layout & Maps Tomáš Haman, Photos For photographers see photos, Cover © iStock.com/rilcombs And really, after one of the rainiest summers on record in Switzerland: you probably picked just the right season to visit Lucerne! Sales & Circulation General Manager Lukas Füglister Sales Matteo Lettieri, +41 32 510 85 76, matteo.lettieri@inyourpocket.com Ad rates at www.inyourpocket.ch, closing date next issue: March 20, 2015 COVER STORY Our cover shows Lucerne’s �second’ wooden bridge across the river Reuss, the Spreuer Brücke, and the town’s old fortification, the Musegg wall with the Männli tower. With the sprinkling of snow on the roofs of Bramberg neighbourhood, it could be November just as well as March. Copyright notice & Editor’s note Text and maps copyright pocket publishing GmbH. Photos copyright photographers. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. ESTONIA RUSSIA LATVIA LITHUANIA NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM POLAND UKRAINE GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA SWITZERLAND ITALY HUNGARY SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO ROMANIA GEORGIA BULGARIA FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA 4 Lucerne In Your Pocket ARRIVING BY PLANE ARRIVING BY CAR Lucerne is easiest to reach from Zurich International Airport (ZRH) which has by far the most international connections compared to the two alternatives EuroAirport Basel Mulhouse (BSL) and Airport Bern-Belp (BRN). Zurich airport handles around 700 flights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide. You can find ATMs and switzerlandinfo desks at arrival 1 and arrival 2 just after you pass customs. There is a big public shopping area with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00 and free Wi-fi for the first 60 minutes, just connect your device to �ZurichAirport’. Direct trains to Lucerne leave Zurich airport every hour and take 62 minutes, trains that take just 10 minutes longer leave inbetween. The train station is actually within the airport, on level -2 of the airport centre, where the main shopping area and check-in 3 are. Train tickets can be bought at the counters or at the ticket machines (switch them to English on the first screen) next to the stairs leading down to the platforms. The Swiss motorway A2 connects Lucerne to the Gotthard and Italy to the south and Bern to the north, the motorway A14 comes from Zurich. This makes getting to Lucerne by car easy, but parking is scarce and expensive. For overnight parking you can try finding a slot in the so-called blue zone in residential areas - parking there is free from 19:00 - 08:00, indicate your arrival time on your parking disk. In car parks parking costs approx. 20 - 50Sfr a day. The legal alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%, which should allow you to have roughly one glass of beer before driving. The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas, 80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways. In residential zones in Lucerne, the speed limit is often 30km/h. Fines are high and yes, Switzerland has agreements with many European countries to make sure you pay the fine even if you have a foreign number plate. You may use your home driving license in Switzerland as long as it is valid - if the license is a non EU-one and in a language other than French, English, Italian or German it is recommended that it be accompanied by an international one. Lucerne train station is as well organised as the whole train iStock.com/NicolasMcComber network. 11.01 ABOUT IYP ARRIVING BY TRAIN We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locallyproduced city guides in the world. The publication earlier this year of guides to Johannesburg and to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our first guides in the Southern Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year by In Your Pocket to well over five million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). Lucerne’s main train station is right in the centre of town, with the lake and the KKL to one side and the old town just a few minutes’ walk away. International and domestic connections leave and arrive here. At the station you will find ticket offices, the tourist information as well as shopping. Buses and taxis leave just in front the station. Of the suburban train stations, the one at the Transport Museum (Verkehrshaus) is most likely to interest you. At the ticket office in the main hall you can buy train tickets (also available at the many ticket machines), tickets for public transport in Lucerne and also change money. For time tables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch or call +41 900 300 300 (1.19Sfr/min). lucerne.inyourpocket.com Driving in Switzerland is generally easy. If you’re using the motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr (available at petrol stations and post offices). Remember that pedestrians on zebra-crossings without traffic lights always have right of way, as do trams. NEW: graphic watches of Switzerland. 11.15 11.30 11.45 ARRIVING BY BUS Though there are not a huge number of long-distance bus connections from Lucerne, you can travel to several destinations in Italy, Croatia and southern France. Buses arrive and leave at Inseliquai 10, just to the east of the main train station, near the lakeshore. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket www.partime.ch SWISS MADE October 2014 - March 2015 5 Arriving & Getting Around City Basics once an hour. The state owned train company is called SBB. For time tables refer to www.sbb.ch. Tickets are sold on vending machines (switch them to English on the first screen) and at the counters in Lucerne main train station. You can purchase single and return tickets. Children up to 5 travel for free, from 6 - 16 years they pay the half-fare. If you plan on travelling around Switzerland a lot, get a half-fare card for one month for 120Sfr - and travel for half the fare on all public transport. Or get a Swiss Pass which is valid for all kinds of public transport (272 - 607Sfr, depending on duration) and free entry to many museums (www.swisstravelsystem.com). Ask for advice at the train station. If you board a train without a valid ticket, you will have to pay a fine of 90Sfr. Lucerne’s centuries-old town hall with the tower, on Kornmarkt. Agata Muszyńska BICYCLES Getting around town by bicycle is popular in Lucerne, and in nice weather it’s a good option for visitors too. NEXTBIKE - BIKE SHARING Nextbike is a bike sharing system where you can pick up bikes at any one of the 60 locations in town around the clock, either by calling the hotline or using their app or website. When you enter the bike’s number in the app, it gives you the number code for the bike lock - and off you go. Fees are charged to your visa or mastercard. Before you can start you need to register online.Qtel. +41 41 50 80 800, www.nextbike.ch. 2Sfr for every hour or part of an hour, 20Sfr/24h. RENT-A-BIKE At the main train station, rents out bicycles (from 27Sfr/ half day) and e-bikes (from 38Sfr/half day).QC-4, Zentralstrasse 1, uBahnhof, tel. +41 51 227 32 61. Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat & Sun 09:30 - 19:00. CAR RENTAL All you need to rent a car in Switzerland is a credit card, an ID and a valid licence - some companies do however also require a minimum age and minimum driving experience. EUROPCAR QD-4, Inseliquai 12b, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 210 57 22, fax +41 41 210 57 23, www.europcar.ch. Open 07:15 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun closed. PUBLIC TRANSPORT Trains The punctuality of trains in Switzerland is legendary. You can almost set your watch to the departure times. The train network is fast, reliable and extensive. For getting around in Switzerland, trains are definitely best - from Lucerne there are connections to all the major Swiss cities at least 6 Lucerne In Your Pocket City transport Lucerne’s public transport network includes buses and local trains. The ticket system is fairly simple: Lucerne’s regional network is divided into zones. You don’t buy tickets for a trip, but rather for a zone. Lucerne city is zone number 101 (see map p. 50) which includes all of the centre and reaches to the Transport Museum on one side and Kastanienbaum and parts of Kriens on the other. Tickets are valid in the chosen zones on buses and local trains. A day pass for zone 101 valid for 24 hours costs 6.40Sfr, a single ticket valid for 45 min 3.20Sfr. Children under 6 travel for free, 6 - 16 year-olds pay the so-called half-fare (which actually is 2.80Sfr). These tickets can be purchased with cash or credit cards at the ticket machines you find at almost every stop (switch to English on the first screen). If you get caught without a valid ticket, it’s 90Sfr. For all questions about public transport, get advice at the Lucerne City Transport (VBL) sales points at the main train station (in the underground shopping area) or at Schwanenplatz. City transport in Lucerne runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30. There are night buses in the nights Fri/Sat and Sat/Sun to the surroundings (like Kriens or Littau) which leave at the main train station. The tickets for 7Sfr or 10Sfr can be bought from the driver. Day passes aren’t valid. DRINKING BASIC DATA Area Switzerland: 41285 sq km Lucerne (canton): 1493 sq km Lucerne (city): 29 sq km Population Switzerland: 8.0 million Lucerne (city): 80,000 Official languages Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh Lucerne: German Local time Central European (GMT+1h) CUSTOMS ELECTRICITY Switzerland is not a member of the European customs union. On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling from and to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the following customs and tax allowances apply (for other countries check with the according customs authorities): Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets are round and take three round pins (types C and J) - they can take europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from the US, UK or Ireland you definitely need an adaptor - as well as from many other countries. In modern hotels you might find multi-use sockets. Otherwise ask for an adaptor at the reception or buy one in a traveller’s or electronics shop. Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20) cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 gr (50) of smoking tobacco. EMERGENCY Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer. Other goods: Max. value of all goods: 430 euros for air travellers and 300 euros for other travellers. Goods over these limits must be declared when entering a EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply. In Switzerland there is duty free shopping for arriving passengers as well. TAXIS There are around 500 licenced taxis in Lucerne and in general they are clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. It’s usually easy to get one, even in rush hours. The city sets the following maximum fees for taxis: initial fee 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr/ km up to 20Sfr, 3.50Sfr/km above 20Sfr. Taxi drivers have to and usually do use their metres. Cheating is rare. Two pieces of hand luggage are free, suitcases, dogs and extra hand luggage can be charged at 1Sfr/piece. You’ll find taxis at official taxi stands at the train station, at Schwanenplatz, behind Hotel National and in other places. You can hail them from the streets as well. TAXI OLÉ, +41 41 360 55 55, www.taxi-olé-luzern.ch lucerne.inyourpocket.com Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak basic English): Ambulance: 144 Police: 117 Firebrigade: 118 If you need medical attention, there is a walk-in medical centre for all kinds of consultations at the main train station. The emergency unit at the hospital is always open. HOSPITAL KANTONSSPITAL LUZERN Lucerne’s hospital has a 24h emergency walk-in service. Buses 18 and 19 go here from the train station.QA-1, Spitalstrasse, uKantonsspital, tel. +41 41 205 11 11, www.luks.ch. Open 24/7. LUZERN OR LUCERNE? Here are two companies if you want to order a taxi: TAXI HESS, +41 41 310 10 10, www.hesstaxi.ch The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and 18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers (in Lucerne you�ll usually find Eichhof, which now belongs to the Dutch Heineken breweries) are increasingly getting competition from innovative local brewers. Check out Luzerner Bier, Lozärner Bier (yep, not the same) or Appenzeller for instance. Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated. While the best may come from further south, you�ll find some very good Blauburgunders (red) and Riesling Sylvaners (white) from the Lucerne region. Traditional Swiss spirits are fruit brandies, cherry (Kirsch) and pear (Williams) being the most common. The city sits on one arm of many-armed Lake Lucerne. iStock.com/sumnersgraphicsinc facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket What’s in a name? If you look for the destination Lucerne on a timetable, you might wonder if the place has gone missing! But no fear - the German spelling is Luzern. That is standard German however: in dialect it’s Lozärn, but now we’re getting a bit advanced. The simple math is: Lucerne = Luzern. October 2014 - March 2015 7 City Basics City Basics LANGUAGE LANGUAGE SMARTS Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The �r� in Swiss German is rolled, the �ch’ is pronounced like in the Scottish loch. Mind your throat. Hello (formal) Grüezi (groo-e-tsi) Goodbye (formal) Adieu (as in French) Thank you Merci (mersi) Sorry! Entschuldigung! (ent-shooldi-goong) Excuse me! Exgüsi! (ex-gewsi) Switzerland D’Schwyz (chviiits) Cheers! Zum Wohl! (tsoom vol) Lucerne Lozärn (Lo-tsaern) NATIONAL HOLIDAYS Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%). Lucerne lies in the German speaking part of the country, where people speak a German dialect, Swiss German or Schwyzerdütsch. Be it among friends, at work or when dealing with the authorities, people speak dialect. However, Swiss people use standard German, so-called Hochdeutsch, when writing and at school. A lot of Swiss speak English fairly well, especially the younger generation. So generally getting by in English is no problem. LOST & FOUND PERMANENCE MEDICAL CENTRE This medical centre in the underground shopping area of the train station is the easiest place to go if you have any medical needs. Go to the reception desk when you arrive, you’ll then probably have to wait a while. QC-4, Bahnhofplatz, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 211 14 44, www.permanence-luzern.ch. Open 365 days, Mon - Thu 07:00 - 23:00, and non-stop Fri 07:00 - Sun 23:00. PHARMACIES Pharmacies (Apotheke in German) on night duty are open 24 hours, a sign on every pharmacy’s door will tell you where the next pharmacy on duty is. You can also call +41 41 211 33 33 which will connect you to the next pharmacy on duty. The pharmacy at the main train station is open Mon - Sat 07:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00 (in the underground shopping area, +41 41 220 13 13). INTERNET & WI-FI Luckily, most hotels and many cafés, bars and restaurants in Lucerne offer free Wi-fi. You will also find the commercial Wi-fi providers Monzoon and Swisscom all over the city. You can subscribe to their services on the start page you get on your browser once you connect to their hotspots all you need is a credit card. Prices are rather high (around 5Sfr for 30min or 25Sfr for 24h). 8 Lucerne In Your Pocket MEET THE HOTELIER For this issue we spoke to Alessandro Pedrazzetti. He runs the Hotel ContinentalPark, a family business in the third generation. The family has its roots in Lucerne and in Ticino and upholds a long tradition of Ticinese cuisine in their bellini Ristorante Ticinese. What do you like best about your job? Helping guests to make their holiday nice and beautiful. ATM’s. Credit cards are widely accepted in shops and restaurants. Service is always included. At a restaurant however, if you were happy with the service, leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip. What was the most extraordinary request a guest ever put to you? An Arabian sheik once wanted to book the whole hotel with its restaurant exclusively for himself and his family. MAIL POLITICS What do you personally like about Lucerne? The lake, the mountains and the cleanliness. Post Swiss post is generally reliable, and also can take care of all your financial transactions. There are post offices all over the city - the university post office just next to the train station has long opening hours (see below). The Swiss like to consider their country the home of direct democracy and citizens here are regularly asked to take a stand on national issues. The two chambers of parliament are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting system and the seven-member government appointed by parliament always includes representatives of all of the four or five major parties. Switzerland is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, which have their own constitutions, parliaments and governments. Bern is the capital and the seat of the parliament and the federal authorities. Due to the understanding of political independence many locals favour, Switzerland is not a member of the EU. Switzerland does, however, cooperate with the EU in many areas, such as on the Schengen visa and border agreement. MONEY LIYP New Year Berchtold Day (local) Carnival (local) Good Friday Easter Monday Ascension Whit Monday Corpus Christi National Holiday St. Leodegar’s Day (local) All Saint’s Day (local) Christmas St. Stephen’s Day If you’ve lost something, you might have a happy reunion at the lost & found, fundbüro in German. It’s located at the police station at Hirschengraben 17b (B-4), tel +41 41 248 86 66, open Mon - Fri 09:00 - 12:00, 13:30 - 17:00. If you might have lost your item on a train or at the train station, also try the lost & found at the station. POSTSTELLE UNIVERSITÄT One of Lucerne’s post offices with the longest opening hours.QC-4, Frohburgstrasse 3, uBahnhof. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 13:30 - 17:30. The arcades along Unter der Egg - nothing to do with eggs, mind. January 1 January 2 February 12, 16 & 17, 2015 April 3, 2015 April 6, 2015 May 14, 2015 May 25, 2015 June 4, 2015 August 1 October 2 November 1 December 25 December 26 The currency of Switzerland is the Swiss franc (Sfr), which equals 100 rappen. There are banknotes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1000 francs. The coins in use are 1,2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen.You can change your money at the SBB change at the train station or any of the banks. Or just withdraw Swiss francs with your Maestro or your Plus card from one of the ubiquitous SAFETY Lucerne is generally a safe city, and there is no no-go area, even for women at night. Of course crime exists, and be on guard against pickpockets just as in any European city. MARKET VALUES SMOKING Loaf of bread 2-5Sfr (€1.65 - 4.15) Cup of coffee 4-6Sfr (€3.30 - 5) 0.3 litre of beer (bar) 4-7Sfr (€3.30-5.80) Public transport ticket, 1 hr 3.20Sfr (€2.65) Packet of cigarettes 8Sfr (€5.80) McDonald�s Big Mac 6.50Sfr (€5.40) The Swiss national bank aims for an exchange rate of at least 1.20Sfr/€ (0.83 € per 1Sfr). The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in publicly accessible buildings and public transport is generally illegal in Switzerland. In Lucerne however, if restaurants and bars are under 80 sqm, they can opt to be smoking venues and quite a few do so. We mark them with X. lucerne.inyourpocket.com TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION Lucerne Tourism’s tourist information office is in the building of the main train station, but is accessible from facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket What is not to miss in Lucerne? The view from the citywall over Lucerne with the beautiful view to the Alps! Which restaurants and bars do you recommend? There are so many possibilities in Lucerne for eating and drinking, depending on what you prefer – just always take a Lucerne In Your Pocket with you. What makes the Hotel Continental-Park special? That it is personally run by the owners and has a unique restaurant �bellini Ristorante Ticinese’ where you can enjoy light and authentic Swiss Ticino and north Italian dishes. In summer our guests enjoy relaxing moments in our garden restaurant under the old and mighty chestnut trees. Lucerne In Your Pocket is... easy to take with me! Zentralstrasse, outside the station.QC-4, Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 227 17 17, fax +41 41 227 17 20, www.luzern.ch. Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00, from Nov - Mar 08:30 - 17:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. VISAS For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even though not a member of the European Union, Switzerland is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a result a Schengen visa is valid for Switzerland as well. Always check these details with a Swiss embassy or consulate. October 2014 - March 2015 9 History Lucerne’s crazy carnival LUCERNE IS BIG IN ROME XVI – XVII Century Religion became a big issue in the 1500s as the Reformation swept across Europe. Neighbouring confederates Zurich and Bern both grasped the new confession. Lucerne, however, remained with the old faith and became a centre of Catholicism, with new monasteries of the Capuchins, Jesuits and Ursulines being built in the 16th and 17th centuries. Faith also caused tensions (and wars!) within the Swiss confederacy, and Lucerne became the leader of the Catholic camp. In this role, Lucerne became the seat of the nuncio, the papal envoy, in 1586 and the seat of the Spanish ambassador in 1595. FASNACHT – DAYS OF MUSIC, MASKS AND MAD PARTYING Lucerne’s big and popular fasnacht starts at 5:00 in the morning on Dirty Thursday (Schmotzige Donnschtig), when Brueder Fritschi the imaginary chief of the guild Zunft zum Safran is the centre of attention, a figure which goes back to 1446 when the townsmen celebrated their victory in battle over the Habsburgs. Brueder Fritschi lands by boat at Schweizerhofquai and opens fasnacht officially with the Urknall (a loud bang) and the Fötzeliräge (confetti rain) on Kapellplatz. The celebrations continue with the Fritschi parade in the afternoon, continue on Monday with the Weyumzug, another big parade and end on Shrove Tuesday (Güdiszischtig) with the so-called Monstercorso, a huge parade of carnival big bands (guggemusig) and lanterns in the evening. PROFITS FROM THE WAR BUSINESS Leodegar, Lucerne’s patron saint on the doors of the Hofkirche. iStock.com/aimintang THE �CITY OF LIGHT’ EMERGES Stone age – IX Century Although stone-age settlements and the Romans left a few traces, Lucerne doesn’t emerge out of the darkness of history until around 840. The name Luciaria is mentioned in documents, which may mean �place of light’ – it is a popular sobriquet for Lucerne today. This early mediaeval town consisted mainly of the Benedictine abbey of Saint Leodegar, who is the town’s patron saint, and the houses at either end of the bridge across the River Reuss. A TRANS-ALPINE TRADE BOOM XII – XVII Century Lucerne was long a regional market town, and the weekly market on Tuesdays (still held today!) supplied the town’s hinterland for centuries. In the 13th century north-south trade across the Gotthard turned Lucerne into a major commercial centre. The trade across this Alpine pass mainly connected the Upper Rhine Plain and Milano, and boomed right up until the 17th century. XV – XIX Century Apart from trans-Alpine trade, a major source of income in Lucerne and its backcountry were mercenaries, young Swiss men who were sent to fight for France, Spain, the Duchy of Savoy or other powers of the day. Between ca. 1400 and 1800 around 50,000 men had left the Lucerne area to serve abroad – and the city of Lucerne only had a population of around 4000 for most of that period! While a few of the mercenaries came back rich, many did not come back at all and the well connected families who brokered the deals were the ones who benefited most. NAPOLEON AND THE BEGINNING OF TOURISM XVIII – XIX Century In 1798 Lucerne lost its independence as Napoleon occupied the Swiss Confederacy and transformed it into the Helvetic Republic for a brief five years. After a return of the old powers, Switzerland was born in 1848, when the modern nation state was founded. In 1859 modernity reached Lucerne in the shape of the railway, and the town started expanding in earnest on the southern shore of the river. From 1830 onwards Lucerne had a new industry – tourism. The lake, the easily accessible mountains and some of the earliest mountain railways made it a favourite destination for the still very exclusive group of people who could afford to travel for pleasure. Many of the grand hotels and attractions like the Gletschergarten were built towards the end of the 19th century. Lucerne’s fasnacht masks can be amazingly elaborate - like this one. Elge Kenneweg/Luzern Tourismus For a few days in late winter Lucerne goes wild. The streets are full of people in wild and wonderful masks, playing horrendously loud music on trumpets, horns and drums – this is fasnacht, the Swiss version of carnival. The Swiss carnival called fasnacht is a major event in many cities. Like Rio has its samba tradition, several Swiss cities have their own enthusiastically cultivated fasnacht customs. And Lucerne has one of the liveliest and loudest ones. Many Luzerner literally live for this celebration which takes place in February or March, waiting all year for fasnacht to come, creating new elaborate costumes and rehearsing their music routines in many fasnachtassociations, guilds or brass bands (guggenmusig). As Rio has its Carnival, Lucerne has its fasnacht. ALLIANCES WITH THE �FOREST COUNTIES’ MODERN-DAY LUCERNE Basically a mediaeval Christian tradition, fasnacht literally is the night before the fasting. An unruly celebration before Easter, it traditionally had to end at the latest by Ash Wednesday, when the strict 40-day fasting period started, where meat, alcohol and festivities were prohibited. With that prospect before them, it’s no wonder that people took the partying seriously. The custom also has the function of scaring winter away and making way for spring. XIII – XIV Century Preceding the 15th century, Lucerne was unproblematically under Habsburg rule. In 1332, due to a power struggle between the German kings Ludwig and Friedrich, Lucerne entered a pact with the three waldstätten or �forest counties’, Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden which encircle Lake Lucerne (or the Vierwaldstättersee, the �lake of the four forest counties’, as it is known locally). This military alliance was slowly to expand until it became the Swiss confederacy, the precursor of the modern Swiss state. XX - XI Century In the 20th century, Lucerne developed into a vibrant centre for the region of Central Switzerland, becoming a university city in 2000. The concert hall KKL (p. 29) by architect Jean Nouvel was also opened in 2000, giving the town a new face. In the realm of culture Lucerne is famous for hosting the second largest – after Basel – and loudest Swiss carnival and the Lucerne Festival for classical music. The festival enjoys huge international renown, particularly due to Claudio Abbado who was head conductor from 2003 until his sudden death in 2014. During mediaeval fasnacht everything was turned topsy-turvy, you could make fun of authorities without fearing punishment and parody and satirical humour ran wild. Poking fun at the powerful is still a central aspect of modern-day fasnacht in Lucerne. And here they are especially proud of their arty masks, the so called grende. The associations put an unbelievable amount of handiwork and time into the production of these masks, as you will realise when you see them. 10 Lucerne In Your Pocket lucerne.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket In Lucerne there is no way to avoid fasnacht. Many firms and shops even close during fasnacht, so that everyone can take part! Luzern’s streets and bars are packed especially on Thursday, Monday and Tuesday with masked groups and bands wandering through the streets (there are two stages for the bands) and people pouring in from all over the region to get in on the fun. It’s boisterous, loud and colourful and if you want to see a different kind of local culture and get some partying in – it’s for you. If you choose to visit during fasnacht you just have to participate - but most probably you’ll choose the date on purpose anyway. LOZÄRNER FASNACHT 2015 Here is the programme of the carnival in 2015. There are usually also some events in the weeks before fasnacht proper. Check www.luzerner-fasnacht.ch or www.lfk.ch for more details as the event gets closer. Thu February 12 - Schmotzige Donschtig 5:00 Tagwach and Urknall on Kapellplatz Brueder Fritschi officially opens the Fasnacht with a big bang and confetti rain 13:45 Fritschiumzug, big parade through the city (watch e.g. on Seebrücke) afterwards street carnival, bands in the streets and on the stages Mon February 16 - Güdis Mentig 13:45 Weyumzug, big parade through the city afterwards street carnival, bands in the streets and on the stages Tue February 17 - Güdis Zischtig 15:30 street carnival starts, bands in the streets and on the stages 19:30 Monstercorso - the grand finale parade of the bands and associations. October 2014 - March 2015 11 Culture & Events Culture & Events Lucerne has a rich cultural life, a packed programme of excellent classical concerts at the KKL and elsewhere, opera and theatre at the Stadttheater and a host of venues for electronic music, pop, jazz, metal etc. We list the most important venues in the venue list and refer to them only by name in the event list. If the event takes place in a less usual venue, we indicate the full address in the preview. Events are listed in the categories classical music, exhibitions, festivals, musicals and rock & pop concerts. Within the sections it’s ordered by date. THE BEST OPERA CHOIRS - ORCHESTRA FILARMONICA ITALIANA Conductor: Manfred Obrecht. Choirs: Konzertchor Klangwerk Luzern, Männerchor Sursee. Works by C. M. von Weber, J. Offenbach, G. Verdi et al.QKKL. Concert starts 17:00, 48-148Sfr. Of course there are far more events than we can list. We recommend checking out www.null41.ch/kulturkalender for more events (Only in German, click �Veranstaltungen’ on the left and type �Luzern’ in the search bar). CLASSICAL MUSIC 19.11 WEDNESDAY & 20.11 THURSDAY LUCERNE SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA - LSO Conductor: James Gaffigan, violoncello: Emmanuelle Bertrand. Works by Joseph Haydn, Camille Saint-Saëns and Henri Dutilleux.QKKL. Concert start 19:30, 25-110Sfr. 14.01 WEDNESDAY & 15.01 THURSDAY LUCERNE SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA - LSO Conductor: Ilan Volkov, violin: Isabelle Faust. Works by Giacinto Scelsi, Alban Berg, Robert Schumann and W. A. Mozart.QKKL. Concert start 19:30, 25-110Sfr. 08.03 SUNDAY LUCERNE VENUE LIST KKL Concert hall with outstanding accoustics. Hosts classical concerts, the Lucerne festival and occasionally rock and pop stars. Tickets: www.kkl-luzern.ch, +41 41 226 77 77.QEuropaplatz 1, uBahnhof, www.kkl-luzern.ch. KONZERTHAUS SCHÜÜR Folk, rock, metal - lots of big names play here. Tickets: www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min). QC-6, Tribschenstrasse 1, uBundesplatz, tel. +41 41 368 10 30, www.schuur.ch. KUNSTMUSEUM LUZERN QC-4, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 226 78 00, www.kunstmuseumluzern.ch. LUZERNER THEATER Tickets under +41 41 228 14 14, ticket office opens 1h before the evening performances. QB-4, Theaterstrasse 2, uBahnhof, www.luzerner -theater.ch. 12 Lucerne In Your Pocket Concentration please! Master pianist Leif Ove Andsnes in action. 07.03 SATURDAY - 15.03 SUNDAY FUMETTO - COMIX FESTIVAL Fumetto is one of the most important comics festivals in Europe: it features about a dozen exhibitions of comics artists as well as around 40 so-called satellite exhibitons in many locations throughout the city featuring young artists and new trends. It draws around 50,000 visitors in 9 days, making for a vibrant festival atmosphere round the main locations. Check their website for details.QB-3, Kornschütte, Kornmarkt 3, www.fumetto.ch. Buy tickets at the festival centre at Kornschütte, more information on their website. 21.03 SATURDAY - 29.03 SUNDAY LUCERNE FESTIVAL AT EASTER This is the kickoff of the 2015 festival season: over a nineday period, Lucerne Festival at Easter provides musical experiences with a focus on sacral music - the perfect way to get in the mood for the Easter season! Check website for programme.QKKL, www.lucernefestival.ch. Tickets: www.lucernefestival.ch, +41 41 226 44 80 or at the box office at KKL during the festival. CINEMAS Lucerne has five cinemas, apart from a few temporary movie events. Traditionally films in Switzerland are shown in their original language with German and French subtitles. But this has changed somewhat, with more and more films being dubbed. Particularly in smaller cinemas you can still watch all movies in the original language - lots of them in English of course. They are marked with the letters Edf in the programmes (English with German (Deutsch) and French subtitles) a D (capital) indicates the movie is spoken in German. Check the daily newspapers or www.cineman.ch for programme and screening times. And don�t be surprised when the movie stops after an hour and the lights are turned on - it�s just the Swiss-style movie break allowing you to fetch another drink or snack. Tickets cost between 13 and 18Sfr, depending on the movie and the seat category you choose. On Mondays tickets are 13Sfr in all cinemas on all seats. Holger Talinski FESTIVALS CAPITOL The capitol shows a wide range of films, from studio to hollywood, from thriller to comedy on six screens. Snacks and drinks for sale. You can reserve tickets on +41 900 556 789, but the charges are a quite hefty initial 1.50Sfr and 1.50Sfr a minute.QC-5, Zentralstrasse 45, uBundesplatz, www.kitag.ch. EXHIBITIONS & FAIRS 08.11 SATURDAY - 16.11 SUNDAY LUCERNE BLUES FESTIVAL Every November for the last 20 years now, Lucerne has become a hot-spot for blues lovers - when the Lucerne Blues Festival takes place! This year’s festival features John Németh, Otis Clay, Delbert McClinton, Trudy Lynn, Mississipi Heat, The 44’s feat. Kirk Fletcher and many more. Besides the groovy concerts at the casino (on Sat Nov 8 and Wed Nov 12 they are free), there are blues brunches at hotels Schweizerhof and Seeburg.QGrand Casino Lucerne, Haldenstrasse 6, www.bluesfestival.ch. Tickets: www.ticketcorner. ch, +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min). 22.11 SATURDAY - 30.11 SUNDAY LUCERNE FESTIVAL AT THE PIANO Nine days of outstanding piano concerts, that’s the Lucerne Festival at the piano! Beethoven fans will be completely in their element at this year’s festival. The Norwegian master pianist Leif Ove Andsnes will join with the Mahler Chamber Orchestra to perform all five of the genius’ piano concertos. The Beethoven Journey, his name for this project, is taking Andsnes around the world in 2015. In a wonderful complement, British pianist Paul Lewis has programmed Beethoven’s last three piano sonatas. And Martin Helmchen will likewise explore the sound world of this titanic composer as he performs the Diabelli Variations. The off-stage concert series in restaurants and bars throughout Lucerne makes sure the piano festival isn’t alive only at the KKL. Participating venues are for example Seebar and the hotels Des Balances, National and Schweizerhof (free admission!).QKKL, www.lucernefestival.ch. Tickets: www.lucernefestival.ch, +41 41 226 44 80 or at the box office at KKL during the festival. lucerne.inyourpocket.com A busy space, empty: one of Candida Höfer’s opera shots. Candida Höfer 01.11 SATURDAY - 08.02 SUNDAY CANDIDA HÖFER Where are the people? Libraries, museums, palaces and opera houses - since the 1970s Candida Höfer has photographed places where many people usually come together. However, her large photos are deserted and focus entirely on the architecture. As a graduate of the famous Becher school at the Düsseldorf Art Academy Candida Höfer has consistently and independently pursued her work. In addition to the large-format interior of opera palaces and cultural institutions, photos of some early series are on show.QKunstmuseum Luzern. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed. Admission 15/6Sfr. 26.09 FRIDAY - 08.03 SUNDAY THE WALL - FROM MUSEGG TO GAZA The Lucerne city wall Musegg and the wall in Gaza are of course two entirely different walls. And yet these walls have one thing in common: they are visible signs facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket MODERNE The moderne with one screen belongs to the same chain as the capitol and shows a similar choice. Snacks and drinks for sale. You can reserve tickets on +41 900 556 789, but the charges are a quite hefty initial 1.50Sfr and 1.50Sfr a minute.QB-5, Pilatusstr. 21, uKantonalbank, www.kitag.ch. STATTKINO Independent operator showing studio productions at the Bourbaki location. 105 seats.QC-2, Löwenplatz 11, uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 30 60, www.stattkino.ch. of separation of people with different religious, political or social backgrounds. This exhibition illustrates various functions of walls. What happens behind, along and on a wall? How is communication influenced by a wall? How can walls be overcome or undermined? Selected examples of walls from the distant past to the present, from the Museggmauer by way of the Berlin Wall to the Gaza Strip are examined. These walls had and have an existential dimension: they shape people’s lives, no matter which side they are on.QA-4, Historisches Museum, Pfistergasse 24, uKasernenplatz, tel. +41 41 228 54 24, www.historischesmuseum.lu.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Mon closed. Admission 10/8/5Sfr. October 2014 - March 2015 13 Culture & Events The blues man is coming! Philipp Fankhauser. MUSICALS 17.10 FRIDAY - 22.02 SUNDAY THE BLACK RIDER - THE CASTING OF THE MAGIC BULLETS Theatre/musical by William S. Burroughs, Tom Waits und Robert Wilson. In different languages.QLuzerner Theater. October 17, 19, 22, 25, 31. November 2, 7, 15, 16, 20, 27, 29. December 4, 8. January 22. February 21, 22. 25-80Sfr. ROCK, POP & JAZZ CONCERTS For more venues with live music, see our box �live music venues’ on p. 25. 23.10 THURSDAY MAXÏMO PARK 2005 this alternative rock band had quite some success with their debut album A Certain Trigger. Almost 10 years 14 Lucerne In Your Pocket On the cheap Couples 07.12 SUNDAY SEETHER The alternative metal rock band Seether from South Africa will rock the stage of the Schüür with their sixth album Isolate & Medicate.QSchüür. Concert starts 19:00, 48Sfr. PD 08.12 MONDAY PHILIPP FANKHAUSER His trademark is his expressive, smoky voice: Swiss blues master Philipp Fankhauser is on tour with his new album Home.QKKL. Concert starts 19:30, 45-85Sfr. Highend The Bourbaki is a cinema - but it’s much more than that, it’s a lively cultural crossroads. When you walk into the Bourbaki you’ll immediately notice the circular layout - the generous Bourbaki bar/bistro is arranged on a huge wooden floor-ring around the central column. The bustling but relaxed atmosphere make this a great place for a cup of coffee or a glass of wine before a film, or at any other time of the day. They also have sweets, snacks and a small choice of meals. Go upstairs and you’ll find the Bourbaki panorama (see photo above) - built in 1889 it’s the reason for the circular layout. The panorama is a kind of 19th century precursor to the cinema, and absolutely worth a visit. Go down the stairs to find the four cinema screens, where mainly studio films are shown, including many Swiss productions. The ticket counters for the panorama and the cinema are on ground level. The ground floor is also home to the kunsthalle luzern, an art museum which focuses on provocative, contemporary art, showing international and Swiss artists (www.kunsthalleluzern.ch).QC-2, Löwenplatz 11, uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 41 419 99 99, www.bourbakipanorama.ch, www.kinoluzern.ch. 24.11 MONDAY TRIGGERFINGER The Belgian blues-rock dandies Triggerfinger are finally on tour again with their much anticpated album By Absence Of The Sun. Some say they are one of the best live bands on the planet. That might be promising a bit much, but they certainly have a huge drive when they’re on stage. QSchüür. Concert starts 19:30, 42Sfr. Lads and lasses 20.11 THURSDAY LAMB Louise Rhodes and Andy Barlow alias Lamb are veterans of the trip-hop genre. And they are particularly stunning live. Fascinating soundscapes, a mix of jazz, dub, breakbeats, drum’n’bass and more - enjoy!QSchüür. Concert starts 19:30, 49Sfr. Local on, their latest record Too much information is proof that they’re still going strong.QSchüür. Concert starts 20:00, 34Sfr. JAZZ & FUNK AT LOUIS BAR At Louis Bar in the Hotel Montana there are often jazz, funk, piano and soul concerts from Tuesday to Sunday (usually free admission). The atmosphere here is somewhere between mondaine and relaxed, and if you’re into this kind of music you definitely should experience a night at the Louis Bar. If you happen to be a whiskey lover (or if you like cigars), even better. On Thursdays there is always a jam session (21:30). QMontana Art Deco Hotel, Adligenswilerstrasse 2, uCasino-Palace, www.hotel-montana.ch. lucerne.inyourpocket.com Unexpected BOURBAKI Quick picks Eat Drink Do One thing to look forward to in the frosty season is the Swiss speciality cheese fondue. This hearty 'soup' of hot bubbling cheese is very popular with locals, but it can take some getting used to. Enjoy in a restaurant (p. 19) or even on a lake cruise (p. 40). You don't have to go far for a plate of piping-hot Thai curry or a scrumptious noodle dish. Takrai Thai (Haldenstrasse 9, D-2) is close to hotel Grand National and this takeaway and small restaurant is great value too! This tiny bar has long been one of our favourites – and now Meyer. Kulturbeiz (p. 23) has grown a few sizes. They like to keep it local here: the beer, the wine, the spirits, the cheese and vegetables and even the occasional bands are sourced locally. If you want to make your francs last longer, stick to beer! Head for the up-and-coming, scruffy Bruch quarter grab a take-away beer on the way, then try the Metzgerhalle (p. 24) and check out the bars round about. There's something new here almost every week! You can't come here for bowling anymore, but if you're looking for music, dancing and partying folk, you're in the right lane at Klub Kegelbahn (p. 26) in a former bowling centre. And who knows, you might just knock someone over with your charm. Get your skates on! When the temperatures drop, ice skating (p. 40) is a popular pastime in Lucerne. The Art on Ice skating rink next to the KKL and the lake is a great place show your skills. And don’t worry if you’re a bit wobbly: the spectacular light show is sure to distract everyone. The micro-brewed beer is just one reason to head for the no-nonsense Stadtkeller restaurant (p. 20). The solid, Swiss style fare and large portions is another. And with the regular live bands they host you've got to be convinced! Looking for a cosy restaurant? In the evening Barbès is a Moroccan restaurant with candle lighting and platters of wonderful mezze you can share. One plate per person is just so isolating! Bar Suite (p. 24) is a sophisticated drinking environment on the seventh floor of hotel Metropol, with views across the roofs of Lucerne. If the weather permits enjoy their magnificent terrace, otherwise cuddle up in one of their sofas. The 1871 (p. 16) was opened in that year, but its chefs definitely keep up with the times. The magnificent French Renaissance dining hall, happily, has stayed in the past. This dining experience with its superb location right on the lake is one of the finest in town. Are the names Lagavulin, Talisker or Bowmore sweet music in your ears? Then you must make suire you visit the Louis bar (p. 23) with it's really exceptional selection of whiskeys. But even if you're not a lover of the smoky spirit, this Art-Déco hotel bar with views of the lake is an exquisite place to spend an evening. Lozärner Does hot wine Chügelipastetli! sound strange? You might not be Well, glühwein or able to say it, but you piping hot, spiced might still like to try mulled wine is an this culinary speciality of Lucerne. indispensable part of the Basically a meat pie, it is a puff-pastry Christmas season in Switzerland. cup filled with little sausage-meat A cup of glühwein will keep you balls (chügeli) and sometimes innards nice and warm while you tour the (sweetbread) in a creamy sauce. Christmas markets (p. 36) facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket Nearly all of the sights Lucerne is so famous for – and has been for nearly two centuries – are free! You can see the Chapel Bridge, the Spreuer Bridge and the Lion Monument without paying a penny (p. 27). How about some high-speed snow fun? On a sunny winter's day you have loads of options. For instance go sledging on Mount Rigi (p. 41). Rent a few sledges on site and race your mates down the four sledge runs. Why not pamper yourself and your loved one with a spa treatment? Hotel Schweizerhof (p. 42) offers anything from simple neck massages to chocolate and coconut full-body peelings for guests and external customers. Or try the rose-petal bath for two with champagne included. Since its opening in 1998 the KKL concert centre has become a magnet for stars of the classical music scene. You can often hear the likes of Bartoli, Mutter, Järvi or Schiff here. No wonder, with the exceptional acoustics of the concert hall. Masks, marching bands and lots of merry making: in February fasnacht celebrations, the Swiss version of Carnival, takes place in Lucerne. It's a huge party which fills the streets and bars for nearly a week. Our feature on p. 11 has the full story. October 2014 - March 2015 15 Restaurants Restaurants Lucerne’s chefs have more to offer than Swiss classics or the Lucerner chügelipastetli. Lucerne culinary class goes from tasty take-aways to exquisite fine dining. You can also find food from many parts of Asia, Europe and the Americas, while many other places take their inspirations from a wide variety of regional cuisines. We list the places we recommend within any particular category. Prices are indicated with the € icons - € indicates most mains are under 25Sfr, €€ mains 25 - 40Sfr, €€€ mains 40 - 55Sfr, €€€€ most mains over 55Sfr. This applies to the evening menus, for lunch many restaurants offer special cheaper deals (on workdays). Note that many restaurants close their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30 and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. The letter and the number (e.g. A-1) after the venue name indicate the coordinates for finding it on the map in the back of this guide. ASIAN Discrete Asian chic at the Mekong. A Credit cards accepted X Smoker lounge E Live music N No credit cards S Take away C-1 Map coordinates u Nearest (trolley)bus stop B Outdoor seating KANCHI This long established first-floor Indian restaurant close to the Lion Monument offers a host of southern Indian specialities such as masala dosa and idlies. They also serve veg and non-veg thalis and tandoori dishes.QC-2, Zürichstrasse 4, uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 67 08, www.kanchi.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 23:00. €€. AS MEKONG The snappy, smart service starts with an offer to take your coat at the door and carries on right through, at the very professionally run Mekong. The up-market far-eastern interior and the profuse use of discrete, indirect lighting complete the package, making this a favourite with business people. The menu is pan-Asian, with Thai and Indian curries, wok dishes or e.g. teriyaki grilled chicken, and a few European-style standards as alternatives. The food is definitely good, especially if you don’t mind the strong Euro touch to the Asian dishes. Limited vegetarian options. QA-4, Pilatusstrasse 29, uKantonalbank, tel. +41 41 226 88 88, www.mekong-luzern.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:00 - 23:00, Thu 11:30 - 14:00, 17:00 - 00:30, Fri 11:30 - 14:00, 17:00 - 01:30, Sat 17:00 - 01:30, Sun closed. €€. A PD CHILLS This well-established restaurant in the new town with stylish interior serves up freshly prepared Thai cuisine using local Swiss produce. On a busy night it can be a bit of a squeeze inside, however on a sunny day outdoor seating is set up on Helvetiaplatz, one of the few squares in the new town.QB-5, Waldstätterstrasse 3, uBundesplatz, tel. +41 41 210 55 00, www.chills.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 22:00. €€. KAITEN SUSHI-BAR Landlocked Switzerland may not be the most obvious place to seek out sushi, but if you are in that mood then this fine restaurant with a focus on quality fish from environmentally sustainable partners will not disappoint you. Kaiten sushi means conveyor belt sushi in Japanese. You pick and choose dishes off the belt depending on your preferences and appetite. The coloured ring on the plates you choose indicate the price. Kaiten also serves a selection of other Japanese dishes and desserts.QB-5, Kauffmannweg 16, uKantonalbank, tel. +41 41 210 42 40, www.kaiten.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 16:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€. A 16 Lucerne In Your Pocket SYMBOL KEY FINE DINING 1871 This lakeside restaurant located in Hotel National (the restaurant is named after the year in which the hotel was first opened) offers a modern fine-dining experience in a grand five-star hotel, whilst at the same time it manages to remain down to earth creating a relaxed atmosphere. Its focus is on simple dishes made with local seasonal produce and the menu changes every two months. Aside from dinner, they also offer good value lunch menus and brunch on Sundays. The food is good but the highlight is the location: enjoy your food in the charming high-ceilinged French Renaissance dining hall or on the ground level terrace overlooking Lake Lucerne. QD-3, Haldenstrasse 4, uLuzernerhof, tel. +41 41 422 18 71, www.1871.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon. €€€. AB JASPER In the magnificent Hotel Palace on Lucerne’s most glamorous lake promenade, Jasper has high expectations to live up to - and it does. There’s no resting on 19th-century laurels here, the interior design and cuisine are absolutely lucerne.inyourpocket.com state-of-the-art. Fancy a taster? How about veal steak with a foie gras café-de-paris sauce and chervil gnocchi or grilled red mullet filets with mint and pea risotto? One of the finest dining experiences in town, and one with a great view of the lake. A few vegetarian options.QE-2, Haldenstrasse 10, uCasino-Palace, tel. +41 41 416 16 16, www.palace-luzern.ch. Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:00 22:15. €€€. AB RESTAURANT ZUM SCHLÜSSEL Chef Franz Mair cultivates traditional Austrian cuisine, with a few Swiss touches thrown in. Whether it’s the Swiss essential nüsslisalat (lamb’s lettuce) with croutons, diced boiled egg and bacon paired with pumpkin seed oil from the Austrian Steiermark region, tafelspitz (prime boiled beef ) with horse radish sauce or gröstl (or rösti) with black pudding (blood sausage) - his team works to high standards. Add an old-town house with ornate wooden floors and ceilings, thoughtful hospitality and genuine friendliness and you have a thoroughly enjoyable experience.QA-4, Franziskanerplatz 12, uFranziskanerplatz, tel. +41 41 210 10 61, www.schluessel-luzern.ch. Open 09:00 22:30, Thu - Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. €€. AB WIEDERKEHR This friendly family-run restaurant with 13 Gault & Millau points is hidden away between Zürichstrasse and the Lion Monument. The focus is on using seasonal and regional products, often prepared with a new twist. Head chef Markus Thomczyk is renowned for his classic-modern approach. On warm days you can enjoy your meal sitting out on the restaurant terrace. As with many restaurants in Lucerne, Wiederkehr offer good value lunch menus on weekdays.QC-1, Zürichstrasse 16, uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 41 44, www.restaurant-wiederkehr.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:30 - 24:00, closed Sun & Mon. €€€. AB FRENCH BRASSERIE BODU This charming French brasserie, wine bar and café in the old town is a local favourite. In summer they have a small terrace with a few tables overlooking the River Reuss and set out more tables in the cobbled square by the town hall. The Centuries of history to accompany your meal: Schlüssel. PD menu includes mussels, entrecôte and duck as one would expect, with an accompanying seasonal menu and plenty of fine wine.QB-3, Kornmarkt 5, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 01 77, www.brasseriebodu.ch. Open 11:30 23:00. €€. AB INTERNATIONAL BARBÈS This relaxed, cosy, candlelit restaurant serves up authentic Moroccan mezze as well as main dishes. It makes fantastic fresh peppermint tea and is also a place where you can enjoy a glass of wine at the bar in the evening and soak up the atmosphere. They also offer lunch menus during the week.QB-5, Winkelriedstrasse 62, uBundesplatz, tel. +41 41 210 00 90, www.barbes.ch. Open 10:00 - 00:30, closed Sun. €. N NEW CABANAS One of the larger Spanish tapas restaurants in town and located in the Bruch quarter, this place is popular among our Spanish friends living here. Favourite tapas include sepia a la plancha and albondigas piri-piri, also on offer is other Spanish fare such as paella and fine red wine as well as a cosy candlelit atmosphere. Owners Maria and Alberto ensure a friendly service and there is a terrace outside for warmer days.QA-4, Bruchstrasse 11, uKasernenplatz, tel. +41 41 240 17 16, www.cabanas.ch. Open 09:00 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€. A PǸɕɜȐѱXȨȐɬѱȽȬɄɴѱ Cool view with hot drinks! facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket www.hotelsonnenberg.ch October 2014 - March 2015 17 Restaurants Restaurants DECODING THE MENU General terms Käse Knoblauch paniert Pfeffer Rahm Salz Senf Zucker cheese garlic breaded pepper cream salt mustard sugar Fleisch Braten Bratwurst Ente Chügelipastetli Kalb Lamm Poulet, Hühnchen Rind Schnitzel Schwein Truthahn Ghackets Geschnetzeltes Leber(li) Meat roast sausage duck puff pastry with meat sauce veal (or calf ) lamb chicken beef cutlet, often breaded pork turkey mince meat meat in bite-size pieces liver Fisch Egli Forelle Felchen Lachs Fish European perch trout common whitefish salmon Beilagen Aubergine Blumenkohl Bratkartoffeln Brötchen Erbsen Kartoffeln Nudeln Pilze Pommes Frites Spargel Spätzli Speck Zwiebeln Side dishes aubergine, egg plant cauliflower roast potatoes bread roll peas potatoes pasta mushrooms french fries, potato chips asparagus egg noodles bacon onion Dessert Apfelstrudel Berliner (Schokoladen) Kuchen Tiramisu Desserts apple pie doughnut (chocolate) cake Italian cream dessert 18 Lucerne In Your Pocket PUNTO GIUSTO This new, small and authentic Italian restaurant specializes in home made antipasti and pasta. The photos on the wall of the owner with multiple Hollywood stars are something of a mystery, but it seems that he is a celebrity favourite. The owner will talk you through which fresh dishes they have on offer and you can make your selection. Also available to take away.QB-6, Bleicherstrasse 29, uPaulusplatz, tel. +41 41 360 55 54, www.puntogiusto.ch. Open 10:30 -14:00, 16:00 -19:00, Thu - Sat 11:00 - 14:00, 18:30 22:00, closed Sun. €€. S ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN Take your pick! Part of Casa Tolone’s choice of wine. PD NEW CASA TOLONE Just a five-minute walk from the old town, you will find Casa Tolone on a quiet road at the top of a hill; you would be forgiven for thinking you are in Italy. This friendly authentic family-run restaurant is something of a hidden gem and has stood the test of time - it’s celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Family Tolone earns praise from regular guests for their homemade specialities, seasonal menus and the wide selection of Italian wines, which are listed per region. On a summer’s eve you can eat outdoors under the pergola.QC-1, Fluhmattstrasse 48, uSchlossberg, tel. +41 41 420 99 88, www.casatolone.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat & Sun 11:30 23:00. €€. AB EINHORN (PIZZERIA DA TOMMASO) This old-town spot is a good solid Italian restaurant which is very decently priced. Downstairs is the casual pizzeria with its rustic, red-tiled floors, upstairs the Einhorn has a slightly more stylish touch. Service is friendly, with lots of character. In the summer months there are outdoor tables on the street, in the pedestrian zone.QC-3, Hertensteinstrasse 23, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 11 06, www.gastronomia-vaglio.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, closed Sun. €. AB GROTTINO 1313 This wooden hut in the industrial area of town is not what you would expect - it has long been considered one of Lucerne’s best-kept secrets. With a log fire, an open kitchen, candlelit tables and mamma-style Italian cooking it is hard to resist. There is a set four-course menu (64Sfr), but you can opt out on courses if you like. Soup, salad, pasta and main courses are served in big bowls and placed in the middle of your table for you to help yourself. They also serve twocourse lunches (20 Sfr) and have started offering a Sunday brunch.QC-6, Industriestrasse 7, uWerkhofstrasse, tel. +41 41 610 13 13, www.grottino1313.ch. Open 11:30 14:00, 18:00 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:30, Sun 09:30 - 14:00. €€. AB lucerne.inyourpocket.com FELSENEGG GARTEN RESTAURANT A true gem in the Lucerne restaurant scene. Charismatic host Franco will welcome you in, whilst Domenico prepares mouth-watering dishes for your delight. The fresh daily menus are written on the black board, Italianstyle (just one meat, fish and vegetarian menu available), you can decide if you would like to take all courses or to select specific dishes. Even though the restaurant is on a CHEESE RESTAURANTS The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, originally come from the French speaking areas of Switzerland. Fondue is basically a mix of melted cheese and white wine bubbling over a small burner which you dip bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted cheese which is poured over boiled potatoes. Even though locals mainly eat these dishes during the cold time of the year, we definitely recommend trying them whatever the season - the restaurants listed below are specialists. busy road, in summer you can eat in the garden behind the restaurant and you quickly forget that you’re in a city. Definitely call in advance to book a table as it is often booked out. They also offer great value lunch menus. QC-2, Maihofstrasse 4, uSchlossberg, tel. +41 41 420 10 13, www.felsenegg-luzern.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat & Sun. Open Sat evening in Nov & Dec. €€. AB SCHLÖSSLI UTENBERG Built in 1757, this small castle on the hill surrounded by parkland overlooks Lucerne, the lake and the mountain panorama. The building was renovated in the mid-nineties and opened as a restaurant café in 1997. Serving up coffee, tea and cakes, cocktails, a Mediterranean influenced menu at lunch time or in the evening and a selection of cigars, it has something for all moods. In good weather sit outside and soak up the peaceful and romantic ambiance, whilst enjoying the delightful view.QUtenberg 643, uKonservatorium, tel. +41 41 420 00 22, www.schloessliutenberg.ch. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 24:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon & Tue. €€. A but if you want to try everything in one go, this is your opportunity. The combos are not cheap, however.QB-3, Eisengasse 15, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 412 37 37, www.fondue-house.ch. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. AB NEW RIGI-HÜTTE (HOTEL SEEBURG) Are you looking for that cosy mountain chalet experience... but in the city? Each year Hotel Seeburg builds its own winter chalet within one of its charming old hotel buildings and recreates that rustic alpine-chic atmosphere with wooden decor, sheepskin rugs, mounted deer antlers and an open fire. It serves up traditional cheese fondue and raclette using local produce and for meat fans there is meat fondue and aelplermagronen, Swiss-style macaroni cheese with bacon, roast onions and applesauce. If you really want to get into the spirit, you can start the evening with a mulled wine outdoors on the terrace in the Stöckli bar. QSeeburgstrasse 53, uHotel Seeburg, tel. +41 41 375 55 55, www.rigi-huette.ch. November 16, 2014 - January 6, 2015. Open 18:00 - 00:00. Closed Sun & Mon. €€. FONDUE HOUSE Step through the door of this old-town house and you find yourself in a mountain cabin - and a good place to taste your way through everything fondue-like. The combo menus give you three fondues in one meal - choose from cheese, bourguignonne (meats in oil), chinoise (meats in broth) and chocolate. Bread, potatoes, sauces and more are served to dip and as sides. Not exactly authentic, as Swiss don’t mix fondues like this, facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket October 2014 - March 2015 19 Restaurants SWISS CUISINE What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out is heavily influenced by their neighbours’ cuisine, especially the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine? Most Swiss would probably say: käsefondue (cheese fondue), a hot soup of cheese and white wine eaten by dunking cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but the smell can take getting used to! Raclette is another cheese speciality, melted cheese on potatoes served with different pickles and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss, the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat (pork) being the most common. One of the Lucerne specialities is Lozärner Chügelipastetli, basically a meat pie, it is a puff-pastry cup filled with little sausage-meat balls (chügeli) and sometimes innards (sweetbread) and mushrooms in a creamy sauce. Also on the list of Swiss traditionals is rösti, a cake of grated and fried potatoes similar to hash browns. Switzerland has an impressive range of breads to go with the famous cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf ) is a favourite for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying with a range of sauces and sides. Restaurants SWISS As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is (see box Swiss cuisine), we list some traditional restaurants here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, see the box on p. 19. STADTKELLER The Stadtkeller hosts a season of concerts over the winter months featuring local and international artists. In the rustical surroundings you can enjoy some hearty Swiss cuisine beforehand or just come along for the concert later on. For the coming winter they welcome for example Dr. Feelgood and the Flying Pickets from the UK and Pink Floyd cover band Crazy Diamond among others onto their stage. QB-3, Sternenplatz 3, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 47 33, www.stadtkeller.ch. Doors open 18:00, concerts start at 20:30. Nov to Mar concert season. AK WIRTSHAUS TAUBE Your first glance at the menu might have you wondering what strange language it’s in, but it’s just Swiss German. Friendly as they are here, they’ve added English below (and standard German!). The menu’s inspiration is thoroughly Swiss too, but it’s far more imaginative than the typical Swiss repertoire. Besides the Lucerne speciality veal dumplings in a puff pastry pie or maccaroni Alpine style, the heart of the menu are the meat patties, in variations with Alpine cheese, herb liquor or mushrooms. Two are even vegetarian! Try the regional wines too.QA-4, Burgerstrasse 3, uHirzenhof, tel. +41 41 210 07 47, www.taube-luzern.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, closed Sun. €€. AB ZUNFTHAUSRESTAURANT PFISTERN Centuries ago this was the meeting point for the guild of bakers, millers and sailors. Today this co-operative is where Swiss people come to eat Swiss food. They have all the classic Swiss dishes geschnetzeltes with rösti, chögelipastetli, cordon bleu and home-made fondue in winter. Vegetarian options are available as are snack platters with meats and cheeses and typical Swiss pear bread to share. Its authentic, rustic interior makes for a cosy evening. On a summer’s day you may opt for one of the tables on the balcony or to sit on the riverside terrace whilst watching everyday Lucerne life happen around you. QB-3, Kornmarkt 4, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 36 50, www.restaurant-pfistern.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €€. AB Pork bratwurst with rösti is one Swiss classic they do at Wirtshaus Taube. PD VEGETARIAN HOFGARTEN Formerly a vegetarian restaurant, Hofgarten now serves meat and fish but continues to offer the best selection of vegetarian dishes in town. Using primarily organic, animalfriendly, market fresh ingredients from local farmers, the food not only looks good but tastes delicious too. It offers great salads and homemade soups and a SwissMediterranean menu, is open 365 days a year and operates as a café between meal times.QD-2, Stadthofstrasse 14, uWey, tel. +41 41 410 88 88, www.hofgarten.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:45, 18:00 - 21:30. €€. AB CHIMNEY’S STEAKHOUSE In a stately mediaeval house in the very heart of the old town, Chimney’s majors on grilled meat, with chicken, lamb, pork and veal on the menu besides the essential beef cuts: rib eye and T-bone steaks, sirloin and filet. But they also offer a good selection of cheese fondues as well as quite a few other Swiss standards. A highlight: in nice weather you can dine on car-free Hirschenplatz, watching the town go by. Smokers can sit and eat in the neighbouring Martini bar.QB-3, Hirschenplatz 2, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 51 50, www.chimneys-steakhouse.ch. Open daily 10:00 24:00. €€. ABX CHURRASCARIA DO SUL The concept at the Churrascaria Do Sul is uncompromising: Brazilian churrascaria in pure form. For a fixed price, a selection of up to eight meats is served to your table direct off the skewer, direct from the barbecue. There is a vegetarian alternative, grilled vegetables and savoury filled pancakes. Other dishes? Negative. This is a grill house.The meats are of course served with side dishes and the best thing is: they keep on coming until you say stop. For one fixed price.QC-1, Zürichstrasse 66, uSchlossberg, tel. +41 41 420 16 16, www.churrascaria-do-sul.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:30, 17:00 - 00:30, Mon & Tue only 11:00 - 14:30, Sat & Sun 17:00 - 00:30. €€€. A 20 Lucerne In Your Pocket ͅ>(=,*/ STEAKHOUSES And it’s just as nice inside! Zunfthausrestaurant Pfistern with its Elge Kenneweg/Luzern Tourismus murals. NEW STERN LUZERN Stern is located on the peaceful but central Franziskanerplatz and specializes in modern Swiss cuisine, using products from local farms. It offers a menu per season and its starter and dessert concept presents taster jars called �shooting stars’, giving you the opportunity to try various dishes, such as Engelberg sausage salad with grapes, nuts and brie or for dessert pear sorbet or vermicelli (sweet chestnut in spaghetti shape). The atmosphere in Stern lingers somewhere between casual and smart and the service is professional and friendly. QA-4, Burgerstrasse 35, uHirzenhof, tel. +41 41 227 50 60, www.sternluzern.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. €€. A Stark auf der ganzen Linie. Wir verbinden täglich rund 130’000 Menschen. Nicht nur zum Kaffeekränzchen und wieder nach Hause. Auch zum Einkauf und Vergnügen. WIRTSHAUS GALLIKER The Galliker family has run this old-style Swiss tavern for over 150 years and recipes have been passed down over four generations. This is the place where Swiss people go to eat traditional Swiss food, from rösti to luzerner chügelipastete (veal with a creamy mushroom sauce served in puff pastry) and in autumn they serve up delicious game dishes. Fine soul food and friendly service from the waiting staff make for a fine local experience.QA-4, Schützenstrasse 1, uKasernenplatz, tel. +41 41 240 10 01. Open 11:30 14:00, 17:00 - 22:00, closed Sun & Mon. €€. A lucerne.inyourpocket.com vbl verbindet Menschen. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket October 2014 - March 2015 21 Cafés Nightlife Coffee culture in Switzerland is heavily influenced by Italy, and many of Lucerne’s bars and cafés are equipped with excellent Italian espresso machines. Cafés specialise on coffee, tea and sweets, but in many you’ll get meals, snacks and alcohol too - the boundary between bars and cafés is not a strict one. ALFRED CAFFEBAR This tiny Italian café on the street corner offers Italianstyle espresso at the bar. Alternatively you can take a seat at one of the few tables outside (or inside if you prefer), take a deep breath and relax. This calm space specializes in quality barista-made coffee. For those with an empty stomach, it offers homemade soup of the day and tramezzini sandwiches made with local produce.QB-6, Bleicherstrasse 1, uBundesplatz, www.alfred-caffebar.ch. Open 07:00 19:00, Thu & Fri 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. CAFÉ CÉSAR In the Grand Hotel National, the Café César is an opulent environment with brass chandeliers, upholstered chairs and heavy curtains. The location on the lake makes the large terrace particularly inviting, in nice weather you can gaze across to the peaks of Mount Pilatus and watch the crowds parading along the lake shore. Apart from coffees, deserts and champagne, César has a selection of wines, some plentiful salads and other mains. Fondue at lunchtime (Nov to Feb)QD-3, Haldenstrasse 4, uLuzernerhof, tel. +41 41 410 25 23, www.cafecesar.ch. Open 08:00 22:00, Sun & Mon 08:00 - 18:00. BREAKFAST Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss breakfasts, a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, and is served with butter, jams, honey, cheeses or cold meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of breads - rye bread, maize bread or potato-andwalnut bread to name just a few - which add to the breakfast spread. Buttery croissants, called gipfeli in Swiss German, are also a favourite. Another breakfast dish with strong roots in Switzerland is müesli, made of oat flakes, grated apple, ground hazelnuts and yoghurt in the classic birchermüesli version. Many Swiss don’t consider breakfast complete without one of the many takes on the müesli-theme. Here come our favourite breakfast places: ART DECO HOTEL MONTANA, an elegant buffet brunch option with an impressive range of hot and cold dishes and all-you-can-eye views of the lake. Sunday 11:00 - 15:00, 69Sfr, children under 12 pay 4Sfr/ year of age, see p. 42. HEINI, one of Lucerne’s traditional bakery-cafés popular with locals young and old, several set breakfasts and additional options. Every day. See p. 35. 22 Lucerne In Your Pocket Lucerne might be small, but as a cultural centre it draws people from all over Central Switzerland. This means it pulls far more weight than mere numbers would suggest. Dozens of bars and clubs jostle for custom, meaning there’s something for almost every taste. For high-end nightlife head for the bars of the grand hotels, for the flipside dive into the vibrant student and alternative scene. You’ll also find pubs and casual bars, as well as live music venues and large mainstream clubs. Check out our listings, and take your pick. As many bars don’t take cards, it’s a good idea to have cash handy! CASUAL BARS Fancy a brioche with that coffee? They’ve got a choice at Alfred. PD CAFÉ DE VILLE (SCHWANEN) This classy French-influenced Art Déco café and restaurant situated on the first floor by Schwanenplatz on the lakeside, provides a variety of international newspapers for guests to enjoy. The high ceilinged rooms and parquet floors only add to the charm. Take a look out the window and enjoy the picture postcard views of Lake Lucerne, Mount Rigi and the other Alpine foothills or on summer days sit out on the terrace. It offers business lunch menus during the week and a fabulous Sunday buffet brunch which includes sashimi. QC-3, Schwanenplatz 4, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 11 77, www.cafedeville.ch. Open 07:00 - 19:30, Sat 07:00 - 18:30, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. €€. NEW CHEZ CASSIS This charming apartment style French café / apero bar is a new addition to the increasingly lively Bruch quarter. Old furniture and kitsch decor together with the warm and friendly mother and daughter hosts, you will soon feel welcome here. Depending on the hour, the coffee is delicious as is the blue pastis aperitif. On Fridays homemade couscous (beef or vegetarian) is served for lunch from an Algerian family recipe.QA-4, Bruchstrasse 44, uHirzenhof, www.facebook.com/cafecassisluzern. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Fri 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun & Mon. NB JAZZKANTINE The Jazzkantine was opened as an initiative of the Lucerne jazz school in 1997. Since then it has become a staple in the old-town café scene. At street level it is a café and simple restaurant with wooden furnishings in the style of a Dutch brown cafe, in summer you can sit outside. Downstairs they have a venue, used primarily for jazz concerts but also the occasional performance or club night. It is popular among locals, has a down-to-earth atmosphere and is renowned for its fine coffee.QB-3, Grabenstrasse 8, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 73 73, www.jazzkantine.ch. Open 09:00 - 00:30. Closed Sun. lucerne.inyourpocket.com NEW BAR BERLIN A small bar tucked away behind the Gewerbehalle off Baselstrasse, an area which is slowly but surely developing into the Lucerne offbeat party mile. This small and cosy bar has a kitsch flair and hosts DJs and concerts on Friday and Saturday nights whilst serving up old-world cocktails. A smoking bar which can get lively at weekends. QLädelistrasse 6, uGütsch, www.facebook.com/ BarBerlin. Open 18:00 - 00:30, Thu: 18:00 - 02:00, Fri & Sat 18:00 - 03:30. Closed Sun. X SYMBOL KEY A Credit cards accepted N No credit cards E Concerts X Smoker lounge K Restaurant W Wi-fi connection u Nearest (trolley)bus stop A-1 Map coordinates They serve vegetarian-focussed lunch menus and snacks in the evening.QC-6, Bundesplatz 3, uBundesplatz, tel. +41 41 210 21 50, www.meyerambundesplatz.ch. Open 08:00 - 00:30. Closed Sun and public holidays. BX ST.MAGDALENA BAR AND RESTAURANT Known as s’Magdi to locals, this is the oldest bar in Lucerne and has been serving for over 200 years. Today it is still very popular and offers a restaurant bar upstairs, serving Spanish and Mediterranean comfort food. It shows films on Monday nights and offers a home to various exhibitions by local artists. There is a smokers bar at street level, which is famous for it’s carajillos (Spanish flamed espresso with schnapps).QB-3, Eisengasse 5-7, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 42 78, www.magdalena.ch. Open 15:00 - 00:30, Thu 15:00 - 01:30, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 00:30. NKX CLASSY BARS Bigger and...as good as ever: Meyer.Kulturbeiz in its new location. PD MADELEINE With its red velvet curtains and gallery, Madeleine is little piece of New York style in Lucerne, located in a former porn cinema. They host occasional concerts / performances and always have DJs on the weekend attracting a mixed crowd. It usually gets pretty busy on weekends and has separate non-smoking and smoking floors.QA-3, Baselstrasse 15, uKasernenplatz, tel. +41 76 326 75 76, www.lamadeleine.ch. Open Wed 20:00 - 00:30, Thu 20:00 - 02:30, Fri & Sat 20:00 - 04:00, closed Sun - Tue. NX NEW MEYER. KULTURBEIZ. This bar recently moved to a new larger location. Decor is modern yet cosy and candlelit and it offers a platform for Lucerne-based artists and musicians, through regular exhibitions and a handful of performances and concerts each month. Drinks are served from an island in the middle of the room and smoking is allowed from 17:00 onwards. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket LOUIS BAR (ART DECO HOTEL MONTANA) The Louis is very much the grand hotel bar, with chandliers, stucco-decorated ceilings, lots of ornate wood panelling, a grand piano and a huge selection of over 130 whiskeys. But the namesake trumpeter is no empty reference, as there is live music, very often jazz, almost every day of the week and jam sessions on Thursdays (admission free). The adjacent Hemingway lounge is for smokers, as has a selection of cigars and over 60 exquisite rums.QE-2, Adligenswilerstrasse 22, uCasino-Palace, tel. +41 41 419 00 00, www.hotel-montana.ch/louis-bar. Open 17:00 - 00:30, Fri & Sat 17:00 - 02:00. AEX CASINO GRAND CASINO LUZERN 250 slot machines with sky-high jackpots and the table games American roulette, black jack, punto banco and poker await you in the city’s very own casino. The casino has a smokers’ section. To get access you need to be at least 18 years old, well dressed (no sportswear) and carry a valid passport or European ID.QD-2, Haldenstrasse 6, uHaldensteig, tel. +41 41 418 56 56, www.grandcasinoluzern.ch. Open 12:00 - 04:00, Fri & Sat 12:00 - 05:00, table games start 14:00. Admission after 16:00: 10Sfr. October 2014 - March 2015 23 Nightlife QUEER LUCERNE The atmosphere in Lucerne is refreshingly open, relaxed and queer-friendly for such a small city. In 2005 local citizens voted in favour of registered partnerships for same sex-couples and in the weeks following the referendum the city hosted the national Pride festival. It is common to see same-sex couples holding hands and showing affection in public and the editor of one of the main local newspapers identifies as transgender and is out and proud. Each November the weeklong Pink Panorama film festival, now in its 13th year, shows LGBTQI films from around the globe, alternative queer platform kopfkino (www.kopfkino.ch) host parties in Treibhaus, (next date: October 25) and there are biannual festivals hosted by QueerCH (www.facebook. com/MenschCH) addressing taboo themes affecting the community. Winter festival: Febuary 7 and 8, 2015. There are few queer bars as such in Lucerne, but regular parties taking place at various locations around the city. FRIGAY NIGHT (AT THE LOFT CLUB) On the third Friday of every month, this popular commercial monthly gay night is celebrating its 10-year anniversary this year. House, chart, r’n’b and mashup music keep the dancefloor full. There is a gallery above if you are not in the mood for dancing. Drinks are fairly expensive. The minimum age is 18 for men and 20 for women.QD-2, Haldenstrasse 21, uLuzernerhof, www.frigaynight.ch. Open 22:00 - 05:00. Admission 15 Sfr. PINKPANORAMA FILM FESTIVAL (AT STATTKINO (BOURBAKI PANORAMA BUILDING)) The 13th edition of the PinkPanorama LGBTQI Film Festival takes place from November 13 - 19, 2014. This year the film programme focus is based around Homoand Transphobia and mutual tolerance with a critical look at intolerence within the LGBTQI community. International films are shown in their original language with German subtitles. Each night during the film festival the Pink Bar is open at the same location and becomes a popular gathering place, with different local organizations hosting the bar each night. The official film festival party takes place on Saturday, November 15 (22:00 - 03.30) at the Jazzkantine in the old town, a 10-minute walk from the cinema.QC-2, Löwenplatz 11, uLöwenplatz, www.pinkpanorama.ch. NEW NACHBAR A little bit chic, a little bit casual, this is a great place if you are looking for a slightly older crowd (30+). It gets lively after work and on weekends. The long room has a tasteful wooden interior, dimmed lighting at night and is connected to the Weisses Schloss restaurant next door. It recently started serving Luzerner Bier on tap and has a good 24 Lucerne In Your Pocket Nightlife selection of wine and cocktails. There are occasional DJ sets on the weekend, though as background music - this is more of a bar for drinking and talking. They also serve brunches on Sundays from 11:00.QB-5, Moosstrasse 7, uMoosegg, tel. +41 41 227 00 00, www.weissesschloss.ch /de/Nachbar. Open 07:00 - 00:30, Mon & Tue 07:00 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 00:30, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. NEUBAD A reflection of contemporary alternative culture in Lucerne, Neubad is a bistro, bar, performance space, urban garden and a coworking space for artists and creative industries. It is housed in the former city swimming baths, made available by the city council for at least until 2018. It offers affordable and creative menus on weekday lunchtimes, international homecooked food on Wednesday nights for just 10Sfr, brunch on Sundays and a bar every night of the week with local DJs playing Thu - Sat nights.QBireggstrasse 36, uSteghof, www.neubad.org. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Thu Sat 09:00 - 00:30, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. ENKW PUBS & TAVERNS A chatty place: the Nachbar. PD SUITE (HOTEL MONOPOL) Suite is a stylish bar overlooking the roofs of Lucerne. On the top floor of the hotel Monopol, it has views of the lake and the mountains. A youngish crowd comes here for the regular house DJ sets, occasional live concerts and diligent cocktail drinking - and they dress up before they come! The Suite also has an ambitious bar menu with sushi, antipasti and other fingerfood (except Sun).QC-4, Pilatusstrasse 1, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 210 21 31, www.suite-lounge.ch. Open Mon 17:00 - 23:30, Tue & Wed 17:00 - 00:30, Thu 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:30, Sat 16:00 - 02:30, Sun 17:00 - 23:30. AEK NEW STORCHEN This popular wine bar, restaurant and café on Kornmarkt, a pedestrianized square in the old town, is opposite the town hall. The ground floor is long and narrow but more outdoor seating is available on the square. On Fridays and Saturdays you’ll see newly-weds celebrate as they leave the registry office. Upstairs in this beautiful old building it is more spacious and here you can drink or eat in the heart of the old town. Ideal for an aperitif with tapas in the early evening.QB-3, Kornmarkt 9, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 60 20, www.storchenluzern.ch. Open 08:30 00:00, Mon & Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AB DANCE BARS METZGERHALLE Metzgerhalle, literally slaughterhouse, is the local punkrock-trash hangout, based in an old restaurant building with a small beer garden out the back. Gigs, DJs and a buzzing beer-slurping atmosphere will keep you entertained and you will soon feel at home here in Lucerne’s alternative scene.QA-4, Baselstrasse 1, uKasernenplatz, www.metzgerhalleluzern.ch. Open 16:00 - late. Closed Sun. ENX lucerne.inyourpocket.com Lucerne offers all kind of live music: jazz, pop, rock, metal, indie, gothic and much more. The clubs and bars listed here focus on live music. Some only open for concerts. For their daily programme, check the websites. Apart from the listed venues, also check www.sedel.ch and www.sudpol.ch, as well as the KKL which doesn’t only host classical music events (www.kkl-luzern.ch). SCHÜÜR (KONZERTHAUS) An old wooden barn seven minutes’ walk from the train station plays host to local bands and international acts. Concerts take place upstairs, where wooden beams cut across the ceiling. Downstairs there is a bar with a popular salsa night on Thursdays and DJs playing alternative styles on other nights.QC-6, Tribschenstrasse 1, uBundesplatz, tel. +41 41 368 10 30, www.schuur.ch. EN TREIBHAUS Treibhaus is a cultural centre, bar and live venue. It is in part funded by the city to allow for young people to get engaged and gather event-organizing experience. The diverse gig program is primarily focussed on alternative music featuring upcoming local, national and international acts. Aside from events, the bistro bar is open with regular lunch menus during the week and panini in the evening and on weekends.QF-6, Spelteriniweg 4, uWeinbergli, www.treibhausluzern.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18.30 - 00:30, Fri 11:30 - 14:00, 18:30 02:30/04:00, Sat 18:30 - 02:30/04:00, closed Sun & Mon. CLASSICAL DANCING ALTERNATIVE BARS ALPINEUM KAFFEEHAUS BAR Located just metres from the famous Lion Monument, this relatively new addition to the Lucerne bar scene feels like it has been around for years. The interior has natural elements like a stone brick wall but with a modern design and offers both indoor and outdoor seating. It serves drinks in the evening and coffee and creative lunch menus during the day and is packed with a young alternative / hipster crowd of Lucerne creative types.QC-2, Denkmalstrasse 11, uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 77 424 90 98, www.facebook. com/alpineum. Open 08:00 - 00:30, Sat 09:00 - 00:30, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. NBKX LIVE MUSIC VENUES Classical dancing has its afficionados in Lucerne, though they may not always be so easy to find. The venues and events we list below should give you a head start. For tango events also check the website www.luzdetango.ch and click on �Tango Agenda’ and then �Tango Kalender’ (in German, but quite comprehensible). Jostling for a drink at Bar 59. PD BAR 59 This relaxed bar goes club in the industrial part of town has two similar sized rooms. The first has a big bar in the middle of the room and usually has no cover charge. The second room, the �club’ is used more for concerts and DJs (admission 5-20Sfr). The programme varies by weekdays, it could be salsa, hip hop, funk, afro, electro, rock or an open mic night.QC-6, Industriestrasse 5, uBrünigstrasse, tel. +41 41 360 52 00, www.bar59.ch. Open Tue 20:00 - 00:30, Wed - Thu 20:00 - 02:30, Fri & Sat 20:00 - 04:00, closed Sun & Mon. Admission bar free of charge. EN facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket SALSA SALSA 59 Every Tuesday, Bar 59 becomes the sizzling centre of the local salsa scene. The DJs play salsa and Latino, and there is also a dancing instructor for beginners. QC-6, Bar 59, Industriestrasse 5, uBrünigstrasse, www.bar59.ch. Every Tue from 20:30. TANGO BESITO MILONGA This tango school offers courses during the week, but Friday nights are milonga practica. Great, if all you want to do is dance!QA-3, St. Karlistrasse 4, uBrüggligasse, tel. +41 78 765 58 80, www.tangostudio.ch. Every Friday 20:45 - 01:00. Admission 10/5 Sfr. October 2014 - March 2015 25 Nightlife ADULT ENTERTAINMENT Swiss laws are quite liberal in regard to the sex business: prostitution is legal, both on the streets and in brothels and similar establishments. Both are regulated however, and street prostitution particularly is only legal in very few areas. In Lucerne you’ll find strip clubs - usually called nightclubs or cabarets - in the centre as well as in the hotspot around Baselstrasse. What you can expect there are expensive drinks (approx. 20Sfr for a beer) and shows with half-naked ladies dancing on a pole until they are entirely naked. In contact bars you can meet a prostitute and accompany her to a room nearby, where as in brothels, sex and sauna clubs the offer is even more direct. Most of these establishments are concentrated in the area around Baselstrasse and Bernstrasse. This somewhat shabby corner of town does not have the best reputation but it can’t be called dangerous. As in other places, many prostitutes work because they have few other income options or, even worse, because they are forced to. Street prostitutes are particularly likely to be victims of human trafficking. DU PONT This strip club is located on the river front, but in here you’ll be looking for another kind of natural beauty. Ring the doorbell for entry.QB-4, Unter der Egg 10a, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 15 05. Open 20:00 - 04:00, closed Sun. NEW MANHATTAN When things get going at this strip club in the old town, the small stage is the centre of attention. Sit back on one of the easy chairs or at the bar. You can also have private entertainment in a private compartment. QB-3, Rössligasse 2, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 30 14. Open 20:00 - 04:00. DAS SCHWARZE SCHAF / DAS WEISSE SCHAF At ground level you will find the bar das weisse Schaf, which translates as white sheep and opens earlier for pre-dancing drinks and cocktails and offers free Wi-fi. Downstairs the black sheep, das schwarze Schaf dancing bar, plays commercial pop and club hits. Incidentally, the bars are not linked to the conservative Swiss People’s Party notorious black and white sheep poster campaign, referring to non-Swiss and Swiss citizens.QC-4, Frankenstrasse 2, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 210 43 35, www.dasschwarzeschaf.ch. Das weisse Schaf: open from 17:00, Fri & Sat from 16:00. Closed Sun. Das schwarze Schaf: Thu, Fri & Sat only 22:00 - 04:00. AW CLUBS CASINEUM Embedded within the Neo-Baroque lakeside Grand Casino building (entrance on the roadside of the building), Casineum is made up of three different spaces. The main hall, the gallery 26 Lucerne In Your Pocket Sightseeing overlooking the main hall and the more minimalist club room. The programme includes jazz concerts and improvisation theatre battles in the early evening and club nights later on the weekends. It is possible to reserve space in the lounge / gallery for you and your friends via the website (based on a minimum consumption), this will save you from having to queue outside.QD-2, Haldenstrasse 6, uCasino, www. casineum.ch. Open Fri & Sat 22:00/23:00 - 04:00, occasionally parties on Thu & Sun. Admission 15 - 25 Sfr. AE Lucerne holds a whole hand of trump cards, the truly stunning natural setting, the intact historical old town, an impressive number of absorbing museums and the aura of nearly two hundred years as a world-renowned destination. You’ll find all the classics and our favourites in the listings. Admission to many places is free, if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by reduced price, usually the children’s fee, e.g. 10/5Sfr. Note that museums are usually closed on Mondays. KLUB KEGELBAHN Klub Kegelbahn is the newest addition to Lucerne’s clubbing landscape and part of the new party mile between Kasernenplatz along Baselstrasse to Kreuzstutz. The former bowling hall is now a meeting place for music lovers. The club owner likes good music, whether it be jazz, northern soul, dub or electronic beats. Check the website for the latest happenings.QA-3, Baselstrasse 24, uGütsch, www.klubkegelbahn.ch. Open Thu 22:00 late, Fri & Sat 23:00 - late. MAIN SIGHTS ROADHOUSE The roadhouse is a big club right in the centre of town, just across from the railway station, with three floors and DJs every night of the week. With their extremely long opening hours, this is a pit stop for all those who don’t want to go home yet - or who want to start early. You can count on the weekly programme here, with beer pong on Tuesdays or after-shopping apero on Saturdays, apart from one-off seasonal events.QC-4, Pilatusstrasse 1, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 220 27 27, www.roadhouse.ch. Open 07:00 - 04:00, Fri 07:00 - 05:00, Sat 09:00 - 06:00, Sun 09:00 - 04:00. The party in full swing at Roadhouse club. Lucerne’s main sights are heavily marketed and known around the world - but still worth the visit. They range from the mediaeval bridges and fortifications, the 19th-century attractions around the Lion Monument to the 21st-century landmark of the KKL. You’ll find museums in our museum section. JESUITENKIRCHE Beautifully located right on the river Reuss, the Jesuitenkirche or Jesuit church St. Franz Xaver is one of the most magnificent Baroque churches in Switzerland. While it is very pleasing from the exterior, with the river promenade in front , the rich, unscathed interior in pinks and whites is what can really take your breath away. Completed in 1677, the two towers were added in 1893.QB-4, Bahnhofstrasse 11a, uFranziskanerplatz, www.jesuitenkirche-luzern.ch. Open 06:00 - 18:30, Mon & Thu 09:30 - 18:30. KAPELLBRÜCKE (CHAPEL BRIDGE) Lucerne’s most famous landmark is certainly the Chapel Bridge, which stretches across the entrance to the river Reuss (over nearly 203 metres) in a peculiar diagonal direction. Built in 1365 as part of Lucerne’s fortifications, it is the oldest covered wooden bridge still standing in Europe. Part of its fame is due to the originally more than 150 triangular paintings positioned inside the bridge in the gabels. The paintings date from the 17th century and show scenes from Lucerne’s and Switzerland’s history, and they can be seen as a mass media of the time, used to advocate allegiance to Catholicism during the Counter-Reformation. In 1993 a fire destroyed a large part of the bridge (towards the centre) including 78 of the paintings. When you walk across the bridge you will see burned, blackened paintings on either end which mark the point where the restored parts begin.QB-4, uBahnhof. The landmark you can’t miss: the Chapel bridge. iStock.com/rilcombs LÖWENDENKMAL (LION MONUMENT) While it is famous today, the Lion Monument enjoyed huge fame in the 19th century and harks back to a very different era, when nation states were just emerging in Europe. The stone sculpture dates from 1821 and was created by Lukas Ahorn to a design by Berthel Thowaldsen. It shows a dying lion, in an allegory for over eight hundred Swiss mercenaries who died in service in 1792. They belonged to the Swiss regiment which served French king Louis XVI, and were defending the Tuileries in Paris where the French royal family were living during the French revolution against revolutionaries. The royal family had long since fled, so the mercenaries were defending an empty palace.QC-1, Denkmalstrasse 4, uLöwenplatz. Admission free. MUSEUMS FOR LESS LUCERNE MUSEUM CARD The museum card is a great deal, giving you free access to 9 museums in Lucerne (and 2 in neighbouring Kriens) on two days. You’re already saving money if you just go to three museums, and if one is the transport museum, you’re saving money from the word go. If you want to do the classic one-day 19th-century tour - Lion Monument, Gletschergarten, Alpineum and Bourbaki Panorama - the card is a must. For children, the saving is not so great and not necessarily worth it.QC-4, Tourist information, Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof, www.lucerne.com. 32Sfr / person. Available only at the tourist information at the main train station. PD TUNNEL Located at the far end of and in the same building as the Radisson Blu hotel, this is by no means an old-style hotel nightclub. The club consists of two rooms connected with each other by a tunnel. The first room has more of a bar feel, although alternating DJs perform here as well as in the clubroom at the far end of the tunnel, which has a more industrial feel. The focus is on cutting-edge electronica music with both local and international DJs keeping the punters dancing through the night.QD-5, Inseliquai 12c, uBahnhof, www.tunnelclub.ch. Open Fri and Sat from 23:00. AX lucerne.inyourpocket.com Unique experiences on Lake Lucerne. Lake Lucerne Navigation Company Information and booking: phone 041 367 67 67 or www.Iakelucerne.ch facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket October 2014 - March 2015 27 Sightseeing Sightseeing LAKE LUCERNE PD Lake Lucerne is one of the things that make Lucerne so exceptional. A walk along the shores is part of life in Lucerne, and the promenade along Schweizerhofquai and Nationalquai with the long double row of chestnut trees is the classical choice. But you can also go south from the KKL, towards the large lake-side park and bathing spot Ufschötti (15 min walk) or even further to the Richard Wagner Museum. The lake also gives you access to a vast area filled to the brim with Alpine beauties. On a nice sunny day nothing can beat a cruise on the lake, whether you stay close to Lucerne or steam south towards the Alps. Due to the labyrinthine shape of the lake, new breathtaking vistas open up again and again. The long cruise down to Flüelen e.g. will take you to the Rütli and past the Tellsplatte, both involved in Switzerland’s founding myths. In German the lake is called Vierwaldstättersee, literally the lake of the four cantons, which refers to Uri, Schwyz, Unterwalden and Lucerne. Barring Lucerne, these cantons are considered to be the birthplace of Switzerland and the William Tell saga plays in these mountain areas. LAKE LUCERNE CRUISES The Lake Lucerne navigation company operates a fleet of over 20 passenger ships on the lake, from the paddle steamer Uri launched in 1901 to the sleek high-tech cruiser Saphir which dates from 2012. You can catch a ship for the 10-minute hop across to the Transport Museum, or spend up to 5.5h on a roundtrip cruise to Flüelen and back. Boats leave regularly from the piers around the KKL or from the piers on Schweizerhofquai even in winter. Snacks and drinks are available from the bar on almost all connections (except the very earliest), and on many the restaurant offers full meals. QC-4, Bahnhofplatz, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 367 67 67, www.lakelucerne.ch. Opening hours of the ticket office across from the railway station: 08:30 12:00, 12:50 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00, 12:50 - 16:00, Sun 08:30 - 12:00, 12:50 - 15:00. Adult fares, oneway, second-class are between 5.60Sfr and 45Sfr, depending on distance. 28 Lucerne In Your Pocket KKL LUCERNE (KULTUR- UND KONGRESSZENTRUM LUZERN) The striking KKL with its huge overhanging roof and its position right on the lake rivals even the Chapel Bridge as Lucerne’s major landmark. The concert and conference centre was completed in the year 2000, built to plans of Parisian architect Jean Nouvel. Its centrepiece is the concert hall with nearly 2000 seats which is used mostly for classical concerts. With walls clad in wood and white plaster reliefs it is known as the Salle Blanche (white hall) and has extraordinary acoustics thanks to acoustics engineer Russell Johnson. The KKL also houses other event halls, conference facilities and the Kunstmuseum art museum. It also has several culinary options, the top-end restaurant Red, the self-service World Café and the elegant Seebar. The KKL is home to the world-renowned classic music festival the Lucerne Festival.QC-4, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, www.kkl-luzern.ch. Guided tours on most weekends (either Sat or Sun) 11:00, reservations +41 41 226 74 33, 15/9Sfr. GLETSCHERGARTEN Gletschergarten means glacier garden, and this Lucerne institution consists of three elements: a geological site formed by a glacier, a museum next door and a mirror maze dating from 1896. The geological site is a set of deep funnels and channels worn into the bedrock by the glacier that once covered this area. Walk along the footbridges and read how these formations came into existence. The museum is housed in a building with Baroque, Renaissance and Biedermeier rooms, which are exquisite but not tied into a larger concept. The mirror maze finally is pure and simple 19th-century fairground fun.QC-1, Denkmalstrasse 4, uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 43 40, www.gletschergarten.ch. Open daily 09:00 - 18:00, Nov - Mar 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 15/8Sfr. SAMMLUNG ROSENGART (ROSENGART COLLECTION) This art collection concentrates on two very different figureheads of classical modernism: exuberant Pablo Picasso (1881 - 1973) and quiet, intense Paul Klee (1879 1940). The basement is entirely dedicated to Klee’s mostly small-scale, delicate works, while the ground floor houses a collection of Picassos from all periods of his work. Angela Rosengart is the founder of the museum and, like her father art dealer Siegfried Rosengart, she had a long and deep friendship with Picasso. A gem among Lucerne’s museums. QC-4, Pilatusstrasse 10, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 220 16 60, www.rosengart.ch. Open daily 10:00 - 18:00, Nov Mar 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 18/10Sfr. SIGHTSEEING TOURS GUIDED TITLIS TOUR A bus takes you to Engelberg from where a cable car connection - with a revolving cable car on the last section - gets you up to Mount Titlis, towering more than 3000m asl in the eternal snow. The view of the Swiss Alps up here is breathtaking (weather permitting)! You can visit the ice grotto, cross the �cliff walk’ suspension bridge or visit the glacier park where you can sledge all year round. The tour is with a multi-lingual guide.QC-4, Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. +41 44 710 50 50, www.switzerland-tours.ch. Starts daily 12:30 in front of the tourist information at the train station. Book in advance by phone or on their website. No tours November 3 - 14, 2014. 129/64.50Sfr. LUCERNE TOURISM CITY TOURS On this walking tour, a guide takes you round all of Lucerne’s major sights giving you historical and anecdotal background. You’ll see places like the Chapel Bridge or the KKL, as well as some more hidden corners. Reservations are not needed, just turn up at the tourist information before 09:45 and pay on site. In English and German. Ask for other languages, group tours in other languages available. QC-4, Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 227 17 17, www.luzern.com. Daily 09:45, duration approx. 2h. From Nov - March only Wed, Sat & Sun. 18/5Sfr. The KKL, the masterpiece by French architect Jean Nouvel. KKL Luzern MUSEUMS FORUM SCHWEIZER GESCHICHTE SCHWYZ (FORUM OF SWISS HISTORY) Forum Schwyz is a historical museum housed in a former granary in the little town of Schwyz whose historical centre is worth a visit in itself. The museum’s main exhibition focusses on the early history of the Swiss confederation, using very up-to-date exhibition techniques. Forum Schwyz also hosts temporary exhibitions on historical and cultural topics. You can get to Schwyz by train in under an hour, then take a bus to Schwyz, Post from where it’s a few minutes’ walk. If you want to make a day of it, consider going by ship: it’s nearly 2h to Brunnen and from there 5 min by train to Schwyz. Audio guides in English, French and Italian. QZeughausstrasse 5, Schwyz, tel. +41 41 819 60 11, www.nationalmuseum.ch/schwyz. Open 10:00 17:00, closed Mon. 10/8Sfr, children up to 16 free. lucerne.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket October 2014 - March 2015 29 Sightseeing Old-town stroll Bridge (as well as on two other bridges). The depictions of the life of saints Leodegar and Mauritius could be read like comics by the mostly illiterate population, and the more than 200 scenes must have made a huge impact in this world with so few images. MOUNTAINS You can just admire the mountains round Lucerne from afar, but you can do much more than that. Many are easily accessible, and the views up there are something else! We only list the classics Pilatus and Rigi here but check the �Winter joys’ chapter (p. 40) for several other good options, many just as close by. old -S eb Di ga ss e Sp re ue ss e eg M ün z g . rasse atz Flora w facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket i sse Bahnhofstra r ik Jesuitenkirche n e ab gr ki h q ua a us ofq ua Hald i Sc Ka r st F nplatz er Thea t e lig. Rüt ite Je s u Ra th Seiden hofst Sch er d U ntE gg Reussst eg rg. s te tr. ens ütz e Kap asse e ng Fur r s-Steg Rathau Kramga sse rbrücke stras se e li g. öss Weinpl. R markt Mühlen rü ck gli Schwanenplatz Gren d el e s s r ga Le de ergasse b G er St. Peters-Kirche llg. e Lu üg st Seebrücke ai fe r erh eiz hw s t r. of Qu sse tstra Cysa en rab eng Löw Tö p n rte Matthäuskirche He en- uss Br ng. Eise Re Ka rli- s eh Se e in st e Mariahilfkirche se S t. tra mau . str en ab g a r s G gi ser eg W Schlogs . St gs seg Mu l) Wal r. g useg er (M egg Mus gg M use rass e gs t g se Mu Pfi lucerne.inyourpocket.com g rab eng sch Hir 30 Lucerne In Your Pocket g land e gis Auf Rebhalde tra hs www.rigi.ch ss sse rstra rime Sch riahilfg as Ma with Sw iss Pa PILATUS Except in the very worst of weather you’ll see Mount Pilatus’ imposing peaks from almost anywhere in Lucerne. At 2132 metres asl it is the highest and most rugged of Lucerne’s three local mountains. With several restaurants, a hotel and sledging in winter and hiking, rock-climbing, a rope park and a toboggan run in summer there are plenty of options. Until Nov 16 you can reach Pilatus by the world’s steepest cog railway from Alpnachstad. As the cable car from Kriens / Fräkmüntegg is being completely refurbished this winter, after Nov 16 it is not possible to reach Mount Pilatus. Only the first section from Kriens to Fräkmüntegg will run year round (sledging possible).Qfrom Alpnachstad or Kriens (Schlossweg 1), tel. +41 41 329 11 11, www.pilatus.ch. Cable car from Fräkmüntegg (Kriens) closed until spring 2015, cogwheel train from Alpnachstad runs until Nov 16, 2015. After Nov 16 no train or cable car until spring 2015 due to works. e ass alk in F g. gra seg Mu A nicer kind of commuting: sledgers on their way up Mount Rigi. PD Fr ee S tr g- Stif t s t chi llin Now we turn around and head for Chapel Bridge (p. 27), passing by Haus Zurgilgen with its round tower built in 1510 and the 18th century St. Peter’s Chapel behind it which gave the Chapel Bridge its name. Built in 1365, the bridge originally served as part of Lucerne’s defence line and, well, to get across the river. Changes in warfare soon made the defence function obsolete, but then the bridge was used for defence from another threat: Protestantism. While nearby places like Zurich had turned Protestant, Lucerne’s authorities were strictly Catholic. To make sure the town’s people stuck with the old faith they commissioned the triangular paintings on the Chapel e ass str se en ras Alp Authentic Switzerland Our old-town stroll starts on Gerbergasse, just next to the bus stop Schwanenplatz. Look out onto the lake with the old town behind you: until 1852 you would have been standing at the water’s edge here, as the land in front of you including where Hotel Schweizerhof (p. 42) stands was then filled up to create the lake promenade. pe llb Mt. Rigi Peninsula Continuing along the river bank we take the Reussbrücke across into the old town’s narrow alleys again. The second on the right is Weinmarkt which soon widens out onto a town square lined by handsome town houses, many of which have painted façades. One fine example is the Zunfthaus zur Metzgern on the right (Weinmarkt 3), once the guild house of the butchers. Exiting Weinmarkt straight ahead on the right you’ll find yourself on Kornmarkt with the sturdy red-roofed tower of the town-hall or Rathaus, completed in 1606. The cellars of the Rathaus harbour the beerhall of the same name – if you fancy a break now. Our stroll now procedes from Kornmarkt away from the river along Werchlaubengässli, then right and immediately left into Mariahilfgasse, passing the Jazzkantine (p. 22). Our next and final destination is the Museggmauer, the town wall. At the end of Mariahilfgasse take a right, and walk along Museggstrasse until you see the Mariahilf church on your right. To the left you can now take a footpath up to the Schirmerturm, a tower in the Musegg wall. Climb the tower (April - October 08:00 - 19:00) and you’ll get a great view out to Lucerne’s hinterland and over the town – old and new. Agata Muszyńska ss Switzerland in the Making. Tue – Sun, 10 –17 h www.forumschwyz.ch The elaborate façade of Hotel des Balances on Weinmarkt. Krong. MOUNT RIGI Mount Rigi (from regina, Latin for queen) is famous for spectacular views of the Alps and the easy access. The majestic mountain lies between Lake Lucerne, Lake Zug and Lake Lauerz. The cogwheel railway leaving from Vitznau was Europe’s first mountain railway. At the top there are several restaurants and around 35 kilometres of winter hiking trails. You can also ski and sledge up there - they have around 10 kilometres of slopes, 4 skilifts and a rental shop. You can descend by a different route with the aerial cable car from Rigi Kaltbad to Weggis and make it a round trip, by boat from Lucerne to Vitznau and return from Weggis.The train and bus connection to Vitznau takes about 1 hour, by ship it’s just as fast.Qfrom Vitznau, Weggis or Arth-Goldau, www.rigi.ch. Return ticket 68/34Sfr. On the other shore of the Reuss our stroll goes right, along the river past Lucerne’s theatre built in 1839. If you look across the river you’ll get a good view of the Rathaus, the town-hall, on the other side. A few steps further along is the Jesuit church St. Franz Xaver (p. 27), a magnificent example of Swiss Baroque architecture. latz Bahnhofp Kunstmuseum KKL Luzern Bahnhof October 2014 - March 2015 31 Lucerne for kids Shopping When it comes to holidays, children’s priorities are a bit different from those of their elders. Luckily, Lucerne has plenty to offer for the younger generations, from outdoor activities to interactive museums. MUSEUMS NEW AESCHBACHS CHOCOWELT What better place to live out memories of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory than in Switzerland, home of some of the finest chocolate in the world. Aeschbachs Chocowelt offers you the opportunity to do just that in a modern and interactive environment. Here you can learn about the history, watch chocolate being made (weekdays only), taste different samples and then even make and decorate your own too. You can book online or by phone. Take the S-bahn N°1 from Lucerne main train station to Root D4 (10 minutes).QChocoDromo 1a, Hochschwerzlen, Root, tel. +41 41 747 33 33, www.aeschbach-chocolatier.ch. Open 09:00 - 18.00, Sat & Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Admission: 15Sfr for adults (incl. a 5Sfr voucher to use in the shop), 8Sfr for children over 6, children under 6 free. 10Sfr supplement if you would like to make and decorate your own 200g bar of chocolate to take home. SHOPS & CAFÉS If you’re looking for children’s clothes or toys, check the major department stores and our listings below. Two cafés where you will feel welcome with a pram or pushchair and a toddler or two are Bourbaki (p. 14) and Neubad (p. 25). PUMPELS BABY & MAMA Pumpels is a small shop with a colourful collection of babies’ and children’s clothes. Their real speciality is cool clothes for your pregnancy.QB-4, Theaterstrasse 13, uKantonalbank, tel. +41 41 210 07 21, www.pumpels.ch. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 18:30, Wed 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun closed. SPIELKISTE Spielkiste, literally a box of playthings, is a wellstocked toy shop. Whether you’re looking for soft toys, lego and similar, board games, model kits or outdoor stuff like balls or wooden stilts, you’ll find it here. As well as baby toys and costumes during the carnival season.QB-4, Seidenhofstrasse 10, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 210 05 80, www.spielkiste.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed. TRANSPORT MUSEUM (VERKEHRSHAUS) The transport museum is one of the great classics for outings in Switzerland. Children all over the country long to go here. And no surprise, with a huge collection of vehicles, the Imax 3D cinema and loads of interactive exhibits. Just recently a huge section about chocolate and where it comes from has opened.QLidostrasse 5, uVerkehrshaus, tel. +41 41 370 44 44, www.verkehrshaus.ch. Open 10:00 17:00, 30/15Sfr. Is that the armour talking? The historical museum. PD HISTORICAL MUSEUM (HISTORISCHES MUSEUM) The historical museum of Lucerne calls itself depot, and that’s what it looks like: a storage house chock-a-block with historic artefacts from tiny needles to huge pieces of sculpture. But there is help! Every object has a bar code which you can scan with the hand-held scanner you get. It then tells you about the object on the display, in English or German. But much better than that is the children’s quiz - lots of kids love following the story the quiz tells, running up and down the four floors looking for the objects the scanner points them to. They can choose from several different themes, and there is even a prize!QA-4, Pfistergasse 24, uKasernenplatz, tel. +41 41 228 54 24, www.historischesmuseum.lu.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Mon except on official holidays. 10/5Sfr, children under 6 free. 32 Lucerne In Your Pocket PARKS & SPORTS Walking around museums is alright, but kids need room to run and romp sometimes. Lucerne has a few parks and playgrounds which are just right for this. SCHLOSS MEGGENHORN Meggenhorn Castle - inspired by Châteaux Chambord in the Loire Valley - and the surrounding gardens are positioned on a small peninsula just outside of Lucerne. It’s a popular spot for picnicking (including a covered area) with a large adventure playground and farm animals for kids, all free of charge. It is possible to tour the castle on Sundays, check the website for more information. Boats leave Lucerne main station frequently for Meggenhorn, alternatively jump on bus N°24 or 25 (15 min). From the bus stop Lerchenbühl it is a short walk to the entrance of the park (5 min) and to the castle (15 min). The path is paved and push chair / wheelchair friendly.QMeggenhorn, uLerchenbühl, www.meggenhorn.ch. lucerne.inyourpocket.com For a town which is - after all - not very big, Lucerne has a surprisingly wide range of shopping options. If you’re buying watches, Lucerne can match or even top most larger destinations (see chapter Watches & Jewellery p.37). But there is also an impressive range of fashion boutiques, some well stocked with the international luxury brands, while others focus on lesser known, carefully chosen Swiss and international designers. Being Switzerland, chocolates and other fine food products are well represented too. BOOKS & MUSIC STOCKER BOOKS Apparently the largest book shop in central Switzerland, Stocker just off Schwanenplatz stocks mainly German books, but it has a small selection of English language literature, as well as maps, toys and some stationery supplies.QC-3, Hertensteinstrasse 44, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 417 25 25, www.buchhaus.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, closed Sun. The two major shopping areas are in the old town between Schwanenplatz on the lake and Mühleplatz to the west (B/C-3), and in the Neustadt (the �new town’) between the railway station and Hirschengraben street (A/B/C-4). ACCESSORIES CAROLINE One of the few remaining hat makers in Switzerland, Caroline Felber makes hats for all ages and occasions and is usually in the shop happily sharing her knowledge and experience and offering customers attentive service. She also trains apprentices to ensure that the art of hat making continues into the future.QB-5, Moosstrasse 1, uMoosstrasse, tel. +41 41 210 53 63, www.huete.ch. Open 09:30 - 12:30, 13:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun & Mon. ART MARKET NEW SCHAURAUM NINA STAEHLI Local artist Nina Staehli has built up an extensive collection of works in sculpture, painting, photography and performance over the past twenty years. Following projects in Switzerland, Austria, Germany and Italy, she is as active as ever currently working on her Trail of Tears project in the USA about the forced relocation of Native American nations. She recently took the decision to take control of all commercial processes involving her art and opened this gallery, alongside her studios in Lucerne, Zug and Berlin. Postcards, books, posters, sculptures, paintings and photography are sold here with prices ranging from 2 to 9500Sfr.QA-4, Gibraltarstrasse 9, uZähringerstrasse, www.ninastaehli.ch. Open Sat 10:00 - 16:00 and by appointment. OPENING HOURS Most shops in the centre of Lucerne are open Mon Fri 08:30 - 18:30, �late-night shopping’ is until 21:00 on Thu and Fri, though not all shops participate. On Saturdays most shops open 09:00 - 16:00. On Sundays shops are generally closed, though there are exceptions for bakers, some jewellers, souvenir shops and others, and everything at the train station. Opening times are often shorter - or shops closed altogether - on official holidays, check p. 9. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket The old town has lots of shopping - and a few bargains too! Agata Muszyńska CREATIVE INDUSTRIES YOUNG DESIGNERS MARKET Young Designers Market offers both a marketing platform and shop space for young designers to sell their products. The shop displays products from over 50 upcoming young designers, many of which are handmade with a focus on fair and sustainable production. There has been much discussion in Switzerland in recent times recognizing creative industries as a valuable driving force for the Swiss economy.QB-5, Moosstrasse 1 (entrance on Obergrundsstrasse) , uMoosegg, tel. +41 77 220 20 02 , www.youngdesignersmarket.ch. Open 10:00 13:00, 14:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, closed Sun & Mon. DEPARTMENT STORES GLOBUS Globus is a high-end department store near the train station: on four levels you can find beauty products, the latest fashion from brands like Esprit, Marc O’Polo, Strellson and Dockers, shoes, watches, jewellery, travel bags, lingerie and much more. After strolling through take a break in the pleasant restaurant on the third floor or get a drink at the bar in the delicatessen department in the basement. QC-4, Pilatusstrasse 4, uBahnhof, tel. +41 58 578 55 55, www.globus.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed. October 2014 - March 2015 33 Shopping Shopping MARC O’POLO Well, they specialise in casual, but it’s casual with style, we’d say. You’ll also find the accessories and shoes of this company with Swedish roots. The Lucerne store features all their latest collections for women - be it trousers, blouses, jackets or coats and more.QB-3, Weinmarkt 6, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 410 84 00, www.marc-o-polo.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed. MANOR Manor is a stylish department store with a touch of Italian flair. It specialises in young and casual fashion and mainly sells its own brands - though it has something for everyone’s needs. Besides that there are departments for beauty, sports, household and home electronics. And last but not least a very good self-service restaurant on the top floor.QB-3, Weggisgasse 5, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 419 76 99, www.manor.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun closed. Go on! Try something on! At Companys for instance. PD FASHION COMME CA This luxury boutique on the quayside stocks internationally renowned brands such as Valentino, Moschino, See by Chloé, Kristensen du Nord, Hache, accessories by Rada, Gem Kingdom and hosiery by Fogal to mention just a few. The boutique has the feeling of an apartment featuring a winding staircase and upholstered furnishings, with a separate room to try on your items of interest.QC-3, Schweizerhofquai 4, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 81 01, www.comme-ca.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Mon 13:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun. COMPANYS Located next to the river, Companys is a European chain clothing store for men and women and stocks various international brands including InWear, Part Two, Designers Remix, Soaked in Luxury and Saint Tropez. It specializes in leading Scandinavian labels e.g. Tiger of Sweden 34 Lucerne In Your Pocket and has a shoe outlet across the road called Colonys. QB-4, Reusssteg 3, uHirzenhof, tel. +41 41 229 60 10, www.companys.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun. NEW FRÜH’LING This multi-brand fashion store, located between the lion monument and the old town, offers young contemporary designer clothes, accessories and shoes at affordable prices. It features established Northern European brands such as Dr. Martens and French Connection, up-and-coming local brands like The Straight and Narrow together with the organic fair-trade labels Knowledge Cotton Apparel and Armed Angels. When shopping here you would be forgiven for thinking you are in London, New York or Berlin.QC-2, Alpenstrasse 7, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 05 09, www.derfruehling.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, closed Sun. GRIEDER One of the more upmarket addresses in town, Grieder has a selection of prêt-à -porter from the major luxury couture houses, as well as slightly more affordable fashion and their own in-house brand. Dior, Valentino, Armani or Balenciaga are all represented. Apart from clothes they stock shoes, bags and accessories, only for women at this location. QC-3, Kapellplatz 1, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 44 224 63 06, www.bongenie-grieder.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 -16:00, closed Sun. GUESS Guess has its own flagship store in Lucerne. Close to Löwenplatz, they display the Guess and Guess by Marciano collections, for both men and women: jeans, garments, shoes, accessories like sunglasses, watches, jewellery, lingerie and perfume - the full range of Guess goods is on show and on sale.QC-2, Hertensteinstrasse 6, uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 31 49, www.guess.com. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. TAX FREE SHOPPING As a foreign resident you are entitled to a refund when making purchases for more than 300Sfr (including VAT), provided the goods leave the country within 30 days. You will get back the VAT, which in Switzerland is only 8% - minus a handling fee. It’s as easy as this: watch out for the Global Blue - Tax Free sign. When paying, ask for a tax refund form. When leaving Switzerland, present your purchases, receipts and passport to Swiss customs officials. They will stamp your tax refund form. To claim an immediate refund, present your stamped tax refund form at a Global Blue refund point (e.g. at Zurich Airport or all around Europe). For more infos see www.global-blue.com. lucerne.inyourpocket.com PARTOUT Warm, resolute Daniela Ruckstuhl draws on 25 years of experience in the fashion business, and the selection in her small boutique for women reflects that. Her Swiss designers include Ida Gut and newcomer Enjey for fashion and Lucerne local Apero for jewellery in gold and carbon. QA-4, Pfistergasse 15, uKasernenplatz, tel. +41 41 240 48 78. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed. FOOD SPECIALITIES CONFISERIE BACHMANN Local confectioner N°1 Bachmann has a wide range of chocolates, confectionery and cakes like the traditional Lucerne gingerbread cake. It’s also a bakery, with fresh bread and sandwiches and soups to go. This shop has an extra wide selection of chocolates - more than 50 different kinds of pralines and chocolates! Many other stores throughout town.QC-3, Schwanenplatz 7, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 91 44, www.confiserie.ch. Open 07:00 19:00, Thu 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:30 18:00. CASAGRANDE GIFT SHOP Casagrande, conveniently located on Schwanenplatz between the lake and the old town, stocks a large range of Swiss souvenirs including cuckoo clocks, Swiss army knives (free engraving with purchase), many watches, clothing, chocolate and much more over three floors. They also offer longer opening hours compared to most shops in the city and shipping options.QC-3, Grendel 6, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 418 60 60, www.casagrande.ch. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:30, Nov - March 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:30, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. MAX CHOCOLATIER This small, sleek boutique in contemporary design just next to Hotel Schweizerhof sells chocolates, pralines and small cakes of outstanding quality.QC-3, Schweizerhofquai 2, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 418 70 90, www.maxchocolatier.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 13:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun closed. OUTDOOR CLOTHING & SPORTS DOODAH This friendly urban sports shop specializing in winter sports, surf and skater equipment and streetwear fashion started up in 1994 and is located 200 metres from the Lion Monument just off the main shopping street. It offers a large selection of brands such as Burton, Roxy, Volcom and Vans. Staff are helpful in answering questions you may have. QC-2, Töpferstrasse 3, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 77 11, www.doodah.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Thu 10:00 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun. Spoilt for choice at Bachmann. PD NEW FINE & MORE Here you might find the perfect gift for your food or drink connoisseur friends. Fine & More deals with bottles of every kind - and their precious contents. They sell spirits such as whiskeys, fruit brandies, cognacs and liqueurs as well as olive oils, nut oils and fine vinegars such as select balsamicos. You can also have a taster of most of these luxury liquids!QC-2, Alpenstrasse 5, uLuzernerhof, tel. + 41 41 410 38 00, www.fineandmore.ch. Open 12:30 - 18:30, Fri 10:00 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun & Mon. HEINI Heini has been supplying Lucerne with bread, cakes and chocolate creations for more than fifty years. If you’re looking for pralines, their rägetröpfli or rain drops are a good choice - they’re filled with cherry brandy, not rain. The spacious café at this location is a good place for breakfast or coffee and cakes.QB-3, Hertensteinstrasse 66, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 412 20 20, www.heini.ch. Open 07:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket MAMMUT STORE Swiss producer Mammut has been making ropes for decades, but now has a whole range of trekking and mountaineering equipment. On three stories you can browse through shoes, backpacks, sleeping bags, climbing gear and fashionable clothing for outdoor sports and outdoor use in general.QB-3, Weinmarkt 20, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 10 88, www.mammut.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Sun closed. TRANSA (TRAVEL AND OUTDOOR) Transa is the place for quality outdoor clothing and equipment. The team of staff are experienced specialists and can advise you on their product range and what would best fit your requirements. It might burn a hole in your wallet, but you can probably use what you buy here for the next ten or more years. They have a large selection of footwear and merino wool thermal clothing, plus rucksacks and hiking, biking and climbing hardware.QA-4, Pfistergasse 23, uKasernenplatz, www.transa.ch. Open 10:00 - 18.30, Mon 12:00 - 18:30, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun. October 2014 - March 2015 35 Shopping Watches & Jewellery CHRISTMAS MARKETS Elge Kenneweg/Luzern Tourismus Lucerne has a good handful of Christmas markets. With lots of traditional handicrafts and one-off design products, they’re an ideal place to look for a special present or a literally unique souvenir. But you can also just go for a glass of mulled wine and a sausage, to soak up the Christmas atmosphere. The first market starts at the end of November, the last closes on Christmas eve. CHRISTKINDLIMARKT Fifty wooden market stands on the lower level of the train station offer a colourful mix of gifts such as scented oils or kitchen utensils and international food specialities. Not the most charming of locations but ideal in wet weather or if you would like to pick up a snack for your train journey.QC-4, RailCity (Lucerne main train station), uLuzern Bahnhof, www.christkindlimarkt.ch. November 21 - December 23, 2014. Open 10:00 21:00, Thu - Sat 10:00 - 22:00. SHOPPING CENTRES NEW EMMEN CENTER This is central Switzerland’s largest shopping centre. It’s located in Emmenbrücke, 15 minutes bus ride from Lucerne. Here you’ll find more than 80 shops on 30’000m2 including the fashion stores PKZ, Schild and C&A, jeweller Kurz and the department store Manor just to name a few. QStauffacherstrasse 1, Emmenbrücke, uEmmen Center, tel. +41 41 260 61 12, www.emmencenter.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Wed & Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun closed. DESIGNSCHENKEN (KORNSCHÜTTE / RATHAUS) 90 young Swiss designer labels present their creative design products during this three-day festival in the town hall. Switzerland has a solid reputation when it comes to product design and here you can experience and buy some of its latest creations.QB-3, Kornmarkt 3, uSchwanenplatz, www.designschenken.ch. 5th 7th Dec, 2014. LOZÄRNER WEIHNACHTSMÄRT The most traditional of the Lucerne Christmas markets is located in the square next to the Franciscan church, a five-minute walk along the river from the main train station. The smell of gingerbread, spices and glühwein (mulled wine), together with the bustling atmosphere will get you in the Christmas spirit. Here you’ll find herbs, tea, traditional Christmas biscuits, homemade candles, sheepskin hats and gloves and much more. Also a popular meeting place for locals after work to catch up with friends over a mulled wine or two.QB-4, Franziskanerplatz, uPilatusplatz, www .weihnachtsmarktluzern.com. December 4 - 21, 2014. LUZERNER HANDWERKSMARKT This art and crafts market located in the old town is a great place to pick up unique handmade gifts. Traders here are only allowed to sell goods they have produced themselves. Items made of glass, textiles, wood, ceramic and metal are on offer including a good selection of handmade jewellery.QB-3, Weinmarkt, MSchwanenplatz, www.handwerksmarkt.ch. 6th, 8th, 13th, 14th, 20th, 21st Dec, 2014. One option among many: Hess watches, made locally. SOUVENIRS HARRY’S SOUVENIR SHOP This shop on lively Pfistergasse has the full souvenir range Swiss pocket knives, jumpers and t-shirts with Switzerland prints, postcards and trinkets, some watches as well as a whole wall of Swiss and German cuckoo clocks.QA-4, Pfistergasse 6, uFranziskanerplatz, tel. +41 41 240 88 88, www.harryslucerne.ch. SWISS CORNER FRESCO Souvenirs, Souvenirs! Here they have hats, cups, caps - all with a Swiss cross on them of course. As well as a whole wall covered with wooden cuckoo clocks. And yes, they do have pocket knives too.QC-2, Löwenstrasse 13, uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 30 06. lucerne.inyourpocket.com PD BUCHERER Established in 1888 in Lucerne, Bucherer is a leading jewellery and Swiss watch boutique. They offer top brands like Rolex, IWC, Longines and Rado as well as their own brand Carl F. Bucherer. This huge store also stocks Victorinox pocket knives and Swarovski crystals.QC-3, Schwanenplatz 5, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 369 77 00, www.bucherer.com. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sun 09:00 19:00, Nov - March 09:00 - 18:30, Sun 15:00 - 18:30. CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY With more than 80 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweller in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant, Tissot or their very own CHRIST Swiss Made as well as many fashion jewels. Get a 10% discount with the voucher in this guide!QB-3, Kramgasse 8, uFranziskanerplatz, tel. +41 41 410 18 80, www.christ-swiss.ch. Open 09:00 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed. NEW HESS UHREN These watches are manufactured in Luzern by Walter Hess and his wife Judith. In 2014 they opened a workshop and shop where they mount and sell the two different models they produce so far: the TWO.1 and the TWO.2. The appeal of these mechanic watches with Swiss clock units lies in their delicate, elegant and timeless design. Not cheap but certainly a special souvenir from Lucerne.QD-2, Stiftstrasse 4, uLuzernerhof, tel. +41 41 322 44 88, www.hessuhren.ch. KURZ JEWELLERY & WATCHES Wide selection of mainly Swiss watches like Omega, Zenith, Maurice Lacroix, Tissot, Rado and many more, as well as a large selection of jewellery e.g. by H. Stern and Chopard. QB-3, Weggisgasse 25, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 419 40 20, www.kurzschmuckuhren.ch. Open 09:00 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun. 10 % DISCOUNT MATROUVAILLE Matrouvaille offers modern design products and gifts, inspired by traditional Swiss handicraft methods. Here you will find wallets, key chains and the like.QA-5, Kasimir-Pfyffer-Strasse 16,MHirzenhof,tel.+41412402467,www.matrouvaille.ch. Open Fri 10:00 - 18:30, usually Tue - Thu 09:00 - 17:00. SCHMOCKER SOUVENIRS Whether Swiss Army knives, cow bells, key rings, shirts, postcards, cuckoo clocks or almost any other imagineable souvenir - you �ll find it at Schmocker’s shop. They also stock Swiss handicraft like dolls, music boxes and finest wood carvings and watches.QD-2, St.-Leodegar-Str. 2, uLuzernerhof, tel. +41 41 410 32 50, www.schmocker -souvenirs.ch. Open daily (incl. Sundays) 10:00 - 12:00, 13:30 - 18:00. In winter Sun closed. 36 Lucerne In Your Pocket Lucerne is one of the major marketplaces for Swiss watches, with dozens of brands on offer. Use our watchfinder pages (overleaf ) to locate the one you’re after or just browse through the more than two dozen boutiques, most of them located around Schwanenplatz. On the entire selection of watches and jewelry. Valid until April 30, 2015, in all CHRIST shops. In LUCERNE at Kramgasse 8. Does not apply to special orders, services, repairs or gift certificates. Cannot be combined with any other offers. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket October 2014 - March 2015 37 Juwelia, Denkmalstrasse 1 - 3 Kienzle, Kapellgasse 3 Kurz, Weggisgasse 25 Moser Uhren & Bijouterie AG, Hertensteinstrasse 17 Omega Boutique, Grendelstrasse 5 Panerai Boutique, Kapellplatz 9 Ruckli, Bahnhofplatz 3 Schmid-Linder Switzerland GmbH, Denkmalstrasse 9 Sokolov, Weinmarkt 8 Swatch Store, Weggisgasse 19 Swiss Lion, Löwenplatz 11 Swiss Timecorner, Löwenstrasse 2 TAG Heuer Boutique, Grendelstrasse 8 Vacheron Constantin Boutique, Kapellplatz 10 Zenith-Boutique, Grendelstrasse 8 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • lucerne.inyourpocket.com • nt ng alq ion • • facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket pla tz Luzern Bahnhof Rath aus -Ste g Weinmarkt • S ei The mg ass e ss te us Pfisterg. g. ra w a t erstras Jesuitenkirche Kr on Flo de nh ofs t z Kra Re • Bah nho f cke l at • össli g. • Löwen grab • brü Je s u it e np • • • • g • • Nat stra sse den Schweizerhofquai g. • Müh le n p • • • Hal Stadthofstr. 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Grabenst s se Weg gi sg a • Harry's Watch Center, Pfistergasse 10 City Watch, Pilatusstrasse 17A • • Gübelin, Schweizerhofquai 1 CHRIST Uhren & Schmuck, Kramgasse 8 • Embassy, Grendelstrasse 2 Casagrande, Grendel 6 4 k a ne stra s rp lat se z 3 g. 2 P OW E R E D BY S O L A R E N E R G Y TAC T I L E T E C H N O L O G Y Mü nz 1 TISSOT T-TOUCH LADY SOLAR Kap A. Lange & Söhne Audemars Piguet Balmain Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Blancpain Breguet Breitling Bulgari Cartier Certina Charriol Chopard Corum Ebel Eterna Franck Muller Girard Perregaux Hermès Hublot IWC Schaffhausen Kienzle Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaquet Droz Longines Louis Erard Maurice Lacroix Mondaine Movado Omega Oris Panerai Parmigiani Fleurier Patek Philippe Piaget Rado Raymond Weil Rolex Swatch Swiss Military Hanowa Swiss Partime TAG Heuer Tissot Ulysse Nardin Urwerk Vacheron Constantin Victorinox Swiss Army Watches Bucherer, Schwanenplatz 5 Watches Franziskanerkirche October 2014 - March 2015 39 Winter joys Winter joys Ice skating, fondue cruise or sledging - Lucerne can be fun in winter too! See our suggestions below. In case the city is covered by a thick layer of high-altitude fog (unfortunately happens quite often), we recommend you climb a nearby mountain to get some sun. Or even better: ski it. There are many mountains and resorts so close to Lucerne that it’s worth going to one just for the day. These resorts usually open by the end of November or mid-December, as soon as there is snow. Always check the conditions before you leave. WINTER ACTIVITIES IN THE CITY Fondue cruise: sure it’s tasty, but don’t miss the scenery! PD CHEESE FONDUE CRUISE Each Friday evening from October 24 through Febuary 27, 2015 you can step aboard the cheese fondue cruise, which serves �all you can eat’ fondue or raclette as you sail around Lake Lucerne by night. The experience lasts around 2.5 hours and you need to book in advance online or by telephone. A very cheesy Swiss experience (no pun intended!)QC-4, Bahnhofplatz, uLuzern Bahnhof, tel. +41 41 367 67 67, www.lakelucerne.ch. Cruise departs from Lucerne Bahnhofquai at 19:12, returning to the same spot at 21:47 each Friday (Oct - Feb). 36Sfr for the cruise, plus 32Sfr for �all you can eat’ fondue or raclette. Children up to the age of 12, pay 2Sfr per year (e.g. an 11-year-old would pay 22Sfr). FITNESSPARK ALLMEND/CITY SWIMMING POOL The Fitnesspark Allmend is located in a newly built leisure centre and offers spa and gym facilities. Just the place if you are looking to exercise, to relax or indeed both on a wet or cold winter’s day. It has a modern and well-maintained gym with a down to earth atmosphere, featuring a good selection of cardio machines and weights. The spa offers both mixed and women-only sauna facilities, an outdoor Kneipp garden to boost circulation and a state of the art thermal salt lounge. It is also possible to pay a supplement to book a massage or use the solarium facilities. The city swimming baths are located in the same building and offer 5 pools of differing depths and sizes including a 25m pool for the more serious swimmers, a 5m high diving board and a tube slide for the more adventurous among us (www.hallenbadluzern.ch).QZihlmattweg 46, uZihlmattweg, tel. +41 41 360 66 91, www.fitnesspark.ch/allmend. Open 06:30 - 22:00, Sat & Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Admission: 37Sfr entrance to spa and gym (no children under 16 allowed). 12Sfr entrance to the swimming pool. LIVE ON ICE OUTDOOR ICE SKATING WITH A VIEW Nestled between the iconic KKL building next to the main train station and Lake Lucerne, there will be a temporary outdoor iceskating rink offering entertainment for people of all ages. Here you can pirouette whilst enjoying views of the city, lake and snow capped pre-Alps. The lighting concept is presented by light artist Gerry Hofstetter, who is internationally renowned for his illuminations on monuments, mountains, icebergs, glaciers and other natural sights around the globe, raising awareness for climate change. There will be an opening ceremony featuring a performance on ice, which coincides with the switching on of the city’s Christmas lights. On December 12 there will be a benefit performance by the European figure skating champion Sarah Meier.QC-4, Europaplatz, uLuzern Bahnhof, www.liveonice.ch. November 27, 2014 to January 4, 2015. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Wed, Sat & Sun 14:00 - 22:00. Admission free. Rental ice skates 8Sfr for 90mins, 3Sfr for each additional hour (ID required as a deposit). SNOW N’ RAIL A good way to get to the snow is public transport. The Swiss Federal Railways SBB have special combined offers for many of the listed resorts. It’s around 20% cheaper if you book the train/bus ticket and the ski pass together. Ask for the Snow’n’Rail tickets at the counters at the train station - they will print the time table for your journey as well. 40 Lucerne In Your Pocket Escape from the cold to the spa area at Fitnesspark Allmend. PD lucerne.inyourpocket.com SÖRENBERG Sörenberg is a great ski resorts for families. In the area Dorf two chairlifts, a gondola and eleven skilifts take you up to dozens of kilometres of slopes. While many of the slopes here are not very steep, more experienced skiers will find what they are looking for on the Brienzer Rothorn (2350 metres asl) where two additonal lifts are located. A steep slope takes you back to the valley. Public transport gets you to Sörenberg in just 70 minutes.QBergbahnen Sörenberg, Sörenberg, tel. +41 41 488 21 21, www.soerenberg.ch. Open Dec 13 until April 6, 2015. Day passes 50/40/25Sfr. Sledging on Mount Rigi: now where are the brakes on this thing? PD SLEDGING IN CENTRAL SWITZERLAND The snow does not settle too often in Lucerne city, but when it does local folk head up to the back of the conservatorium (Map F-1) for city sledging. On milder winter days you may need to seek out a higher altitude for sledging possibilities. Both Mount Pilatus and Mount Rigi (see p. 30) offer sledging routes. You can go up by cable car / train, rent sledges for around 10Sfr and down you go. Pilatus also rents snow bikes, airboards and minibobs, whereas Rigi has various runs and also offers snowshoe rental and night sledging for the more adventurous. Check the websites for more information. Be sure to have some good shoes and warm clothing, as it can get chilly on the mountain.Qwww.pilatus.ch, www.rigi.ch. STOOS Just 90 minutes from Lucerne, the small village of Stoos offers seven lifts and stunning views over Lake Lucerne from the top of the Fronalpstock. Stoos is only accessible by cable railway or aerial cable car. From the town of Schwyz take a bus to the Schlatti valley station and enjoy the short ride up to the village, where you’ll find several rental shops. This small resort is great for families. If you don’t ski, take a ride in a horse-drawn carriage (contact Suter Transporte, tel. +41 79 455 66 24).QStoos, tel. +41 41 818 08 08, www.stoos.ch. Open December until April 6, 2015. Day pass (including feeder cable railway) 50/30Sfr. SKI RESORTS ENGELBERG - TITLIS Engelberg is the biggest resort in central Switzerland. Its top attraction is Mount Titlis: a rotating gondola takes you up to more than 3,000 metres above sea level. There you get a spectacular view, a glacier and some steep slopes that lead back down to the village of Engelberg, 2,000 metres below. Besides Mount Titlis there are 82 kilometres of slopes suitable for beginners as well as experienced skiers, snow trekking paths and cross country ski runs. Several shops have gear for rent. The train ride from Lucerne takes only 43 minutes.QPoststrasse 3, Engelberg, tel. +41 41 639 50 50, www.titlis.ch. Day pass 62/43/25Sfr. MEIRINGEN - HASLIBERG The ski resort of Hasliberg is quite easy to reach: from Lucerne, a train (to Brünig) and a bus take you there in 90 minutes. High above the Haslital 60 kilometres of slopes for all levels, 14 lifts and a skicross park where you can compete with your friends await you. With a junior ski park and a special children’s learning area, this is a good choice for families. You can also rent gear there. If you’re not into skiing, there are hiking and sledging trails.QHasliberg, tel. +41 33 550 50 50, www.meiringen-hasliberg.ch. Open Dec 20 until April 6, 2015. Day passes 57/46/28Sfr. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket Ah, if we all had such technique! Skiing at Meiringen-Hasliberg. PD PANORAMIC TRAIN GOLDEN PASS - PANORAMIC TRAIN The Golden Pass is a panoramic train line connecting Lucerne with the city of Montreux, on Lake Geneva. The route first takes you from Lucerne over the Brünig pass to Interlaken and then right through the heart of the Bernese Alps via Zweisimmen and Gstaad to Lake Geneva. In nice weather this trip is absolutely stunning, taking you through valleys and past lakes and mountains of extraordinary beauty. The trains use panorama wagons with huge windows so you get unhindered views of the wonderful landscapes going by, or alternatively beautiful vintage trains. Check timetable for details. Qtel. +41 21 989 81 90, www.goldenpassline.ch. Trains leave Lucerne every second hour, the first one at 07:05. Book your seats in advance on their website, by phone or at the SBB counters at the station. Ticket: 73Sfr one way, reservation fee is additional. October 2014 - March 2015 41 Hotels Hotels Lucerne has an exceptional concentration of Grand Hotels, but there is accommodation for most other tastes and budgets as well. Sometimes rates are lower for the weekend, so if you’re flexible check when you book. Generally bathrooms are private and Wi-fi is available in the rooms, we specify where either is not the case. Rooms and public areas are usually non-smoking, but some hotels have smokers rooms and most have a smoking area. In Switzerland hotels are categorized with stars from one to five by two organizations, hotelleriesuisse and GastroSuisse. The former also gives qualifying hotels the supplement �superior’, indicating a higher level of service and quality. The classifications are generally comparable. We list hotels according to their classification in the following categories: Cream of the Crop *****, Upmarket ****, Mid-range *** and Budget (0 to **). We also list several attractive places around Lucerne in our Out of town category, from ** to *****. Some of these are in nearby towns, others in unspoiled naturtal locations. Grand hotel Schweizerhof on the elegant lake shore. LIYP CREAM OF THE CROP RENAISSANCE In a central location on busy Pilatusstrasse, the Renaissance occupies a substantial historic town-house with an ornate façade, behind which however you’ll find the polished, contemporary design of an international hotel. Rooms are light, with fabrics in warm, earthy hues and classic modern design accents. All rooms have flat-screen TVs, tea and coffee facilities and Wi-fi. Staff is friendly, keeps the rooms very clean and mostly speaks English. In house you’ll find a lounge, a gym, the Mexican and steak restaurant Pacifico and a smokers bar.QB-4, Pilatusstrasse 15, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 226 87 87, fax +41 41 226 87 90, renaissance .lucerne@renaissancehotels.com, www.renaissance -lucerne.com. 86 rooms. Breakfast 30Sfr, Wi-fi free. PAUFLKW hhhhh 42 Lucerne In Your Pocket SCHWEIZERHOF The elegant Neo-Renaissance Schweizerhof with its location on the lake promenade has been setting standards in hospitality since 1845. Many rooms and all suites have breathtaking views of the lake and the surrounding mountains. The spacious, elegant rooms are kept in greys and blues, with carpet floors and classic furnishings. The Schweizerhof also offers a wide range of spa options, the two restaurants Galerie and Pavillon, the modern Schweizerhof bar with live piano music and the great terrace.QC-3, Schweizerhofquai, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 04 10, fax +41 41 410 29 71, info@schweizerhof-luzern.ch, www.schweizerhof-luzern.ch. 101 rooms. Breakfast 35Sfr, free Wi-fi. PHAFKDwW hhhhh standard flat-screen TV, telephone, minibar, safe etc. The inhouse restaurant bellini serves Ticinese, i.e. southern Swiss, and North-Italian specialities, and in the summer season, the restaurant and bar also set up under the trees of the small park just around the corner. The hotel is close to the railway station and also has covered parking spaces. QC-5, Murbacherstrasse 4, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 228 90 50, fax +41 41 228 90 58, hotel@continental.ch, www.continental.ch. 92 rooms. Breakfast incl., Wi-fi and cable internet free. PHA6ULKW hhhh ROMANTIK HOTEL WILDEN MANN The Wilden Mann is a thoughtfully run hotel with a rich history of five hundred years which you can feel at every step. Though each room is different, all are warmly furnished with carpets, rich fabrics, antique furniture with classic upholstery and carved wood, intricate parquet flooring and the occasional four-poster bed. All rooms have a flat-screen TV, telephone, radio, minibar, hairdryer and a safe.QB-4, Bahnhofstrasse 30, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 210 16 66, fax +41 41 210 16 26, mail@wilden-mann.ch, www.wilden-mann.ch. 48 rooms. Breakfast incl., Wi-fi 5Sfr/24h. Parking is on public spaces and costs 25Sfr/day. A6LKW hhhh UPMARKET MID-RANGE ART DECO HOTEL MONTANA Built in 1910 in Art Déco style, the Montana has been carefully and comprehensively renovated in recent years, bringing out the best of the original clean-lined, but luxurious design. With its hillside location just above the lakeside grand hotels, it has wonderful views across the lake and to the Alps - and its own funicular which takes you down to the lake shore. The spacious rooms are kept in a modern style with Art Déco accents and have parquet floors, flat screen TVs, high-end hi-fi systems and tea and coffee facilities. All rooms facing the lake have a balcony. The so-called spa suites have private saunas and whirlpools. Also outstanding are the in-house Louis bar and the restaurant Scala with 15 Gault Millau points. QE-2, Adligenswilerstrasse 22, uCasino-Palace, tel. +41 41 419 00 00, fax +41 41 419 00 01, info@hotel-montana.ch, www.hotel-montana.ch. 64 rooms. Breakfast 25Sfr, Wi-fi free. HA6UKW hhhh AMBASSADOR The Ambassador occupies a modern building close to the Lion monument. The bright, modern rooms have hardwood floors, radio, safe and minibar and an unsurprising, cheerful furnishing style. Though there is no in-house restaurant, room service includes dishes from the nearby restaurant Lapin. There is covered parking just next door and as a hotel guest you get a reduction.QC-2, Zürichstrasse 3, uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 41 418 81 00, fax +41 41 418 81 90, hotel@ambassador.ch, www.ambassador.ch. 39 rooms. Buffet breakfast, Wi-fi and cable internet incl. A6LW hhh CONTINENTAL-PARK Reading lamps in Italian design and professionally applied colour schemes combined with carpets make for attractive rooms at the Continental-Park. Rooms are comprehensively equipped e.g. with slippers and an umbrella, apart from the SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly H Conference facilities R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre L Parking on site K Restaurant u Nearest (trolley)bus station D Sauna W Wi-fi connection 6 Animal friendly A-1 Map coordinates C Swimming pool lucerne.inyourpocket.com Step inside for Art Deco: hotel Montana. PD GRAND HOTEL EUROPE At the end of the lake promenade, the Europe is one of the handful of grand hotels built in Lucerne at the turn of the 20th century. The comfortable rooms are modern, combining a recent, refined design in matching colour tones with occasional antique pieces. Some rooms have delightful patterned parquet floors, others are carpeted. The in-house restaurant Bellevue offers dining in a rich, Belle-Epoque ambiance with chandeliers and stucco ornaments. For a drink sit down in the bar or in nice weather in the terrace and gardens. Facilities for tennis and golf nearby.QF-2, Haldenstrasse 59, uEurope, tel. +41 41 370 00 11, fax +41 41 370 10 31, info@ europe-luzern.ch, www.europe-luzern.ch. 169 rooms. Breakfast and cable internet incl., Wi-fi 5Sfr/24h. Air conditioning not in all rooms. PHAULKW hhhh HOTEL MONOPOL LUZERN If you’re arriving by train you’ll be particularly pleased about the central location of the Monopol, literally just across from the train station. Built in 1899, the hotel has a Parisian-inspired façade with ornate Rococo elements. The generously-sized rooms with carpeted floors, striped wallpaper insets and dark wood furniture are kept in a classic design. They are all equipped with flat-screen satellite TV and radio, telephone, minibar, safe and hairdryer. The in-house lounge and bar Suite on the 7th floor is a nice place for a drink with views of the lake and mountains.QC4, Pilatusstrasse 1, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 226 43 43, fax +41 41 226 43 44, mail@monopolluzern.ch, www. monopolluzern.ch. 73 rooms. Breakfast incl, Wi-fi free. HA6LKW hhhh facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket BELLEVUE The Bellevue is on the green eastern edge of Lucerne a few 100m from the lake shore, but still only 12 minutes by bus from the centre. The clean, simple rooms have carpeted floors, large windows and many have a balcony with views of the mountains, though not the lake. They come with a flat-screen TV, radio, telephone and minibar. The Bellevue does not have a restaurant or bar, but its sister hotel Hermitage across the road offers upmarket gastronomy. Other facilities like a tennis court or sauna are available there. Family rooms for up to 6 people available. QSeeburgstrasse 79, uHermitage, tel. +41 41 371 27 27, fax +41 41 371 27 28, info@bellevue-luzern.ch, www.bellevue-luzern.ch. 19 rooms. Breakfast and Wi-fi incl. TA6FLDW hhh DE LA PAIX The De la Paix boasts a central location just on the edge of the old town, in a handsome early 20th-century town house and a reputation for friendly service. The bright, modern rooms have hardwood floors, TV, radio, safe and minibar. The furnishing is straightforward, with warm colours and wood touches. The rustic-styled in-house restaurant Lapin serves Swiss-cum-international cuisine. QC-2, Museggstrasse 2, uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 41 418 80 00, fax +41 41 418 81 90, de-la-paix@ambassador.ch, www.de-la-paix.ch. 39 rooms. Breakfast and Wi-fi incl. HA6LKW hhh October 2014 - March 2015 43 Hotels Hotels GARNI HOTEL DREI KÖNIGE The Drei Könige is in a quiet location about five minutes’ walk from the old town. It occupies an Art Nouveau 7-story town house, but inside the design is more recent. The plain, clean rooms have furnishings with dark wood finishes and carpeted or parquet floors. They all have a flat-screen TV, a radio, a telephone and a hairdryer, many have nice views and a few even have a balcony. An unusual asset is the huge model railway in the attic which rekindles childhood dreams! It is possible to arrange a visit, but access is not guaranteed. Just ask the friendly receptionists.QA-4, Bruchstrassse 35, uKlosterstrasse, tel. +41 41 248 04 80, fax +41 41 248 04 90, hotel@drei-koenige.ch, www.drei-koenige.ch. 60 rooms. Buffet breakfast and Wi-fi incl. AULW hhh HOTEL ALPINA LUZERN The Alpina with its very central and yet quiet location just next to the railway station is a well-run, friendly tourist hotel. The clean rooms are furnished in a straightforward style, with either hardwood floors or carpets. All rooms have private bathrooms, hairdryers, telephones and flat-screen satellite TV and radio. QC-4, Frankenstrasse 6, uBahnhof, tel. + 41 41 210 00 77, fax + 41 41 210 89 44, info@alpina-luzern.ch, www.alpina-luzern.ch. 36 rooms. Breakfast incl., Wi-fi free, no cable internet. HA6LKW hhh Hofkirche church, just off the lake promenade. Emanuel Ammon/Luzern Tourismus IBIS STYLES LUZERN CITY Just next to the Bourbaki Panorama, this hotel is a few minutes on foot from the old town and the lake. The rooms have an attractive, pop-inspired design with accents in bright colours and dark carpeted or laminate floors. They are all equipped with a flat-screen TV, a radio, a telephone and a hairdryer. There is free tea and coffee in the lobby 11:00 - 22:00, as well as an internet terminal. QC-2, Friedenstrasse 8, uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 41 418 48 48, fax +41 41 418 48 18, H8549@accor.com, www.ibisstyles.com. 115 rooms. Breakfast and Wi-fi incl., pets 20Sfr/day. PTHA6KW hhh LUZERNERHOF The Luzernerhof boasts a central location, near the lake and the Lion Monument, but it does have a busy road on one side. The rooms with laminate floors, colourful touches 44 Lucerne In Your Pocket on the walls and straightforward furnishing all have a TV, a radio, a telephone and a hairdryer. Bathrooms have either a shower or bath. There is a French brasserie-style restaurant on the ground floor.QC-2, Alpenstrasse 3, uLuzernerhof, tel. +41 41 418 47 47, fax +41 41 418 47 49, info@luzernerhof.ch, www.luzernerhof.ch. 76 rooms. Breakfast incl., Wi-fi 5Sfr/24h, internet terminal 5Sfr/30 min. PALW hhh BUDGET FALKEN The privately-run Falken has a extremely central location in the old town, just around the corner from Schwanenplatz. Perfect for watch shopping! The rooms are small, but welllit, their style is simple and functional. All have a TV, hairdryer and safe, some have carpets, others laminate floors. Breakfast is at a bakery café nearby.QB-3, Falkengasse 6, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 37 37, fax +41 41 410 57 38, hotel@hotel-falken.ch, www.hotel-falken.ch. 15 rooms. Breakfast 12.50, Wi-fi free. A6W HOTEL GARNI SPATZ Just 5 minutes by bus from the centre, the Spatz is a friendly, small alternative to town-centre accommodation. The light, plain rooms have large windows, well-maintained bathrooms and dark carpeted floors. Some have a balcony, some a TV. Unfortunately, the road can be a bit noisy. The pleasant in-house restaurant has outside seating. QObergrundstrasse 103, uEichhof, tel. +41 41 310 63 84, fax +41 41 310 10 84, info@spatz-luzern.ch, www.spatz-luzern.ch. AKW IBIS LUZERN KRIENS This branch of the well-known budget hotel chain offers the high standards of cleanliness and functionality one has come to expect. The optional buffet breakfast and all-day snacks are served in the generous lobby area which has a colourful, pop-arty design. This Ibis is close to a motorway exit but not directly next to the motorway. Located in Lucerne’s suburb Kriens, it is about 15 minutes by bus from the centre. QIndustriestrasse 13, Kriens, uOberkuonimatt, tel. +41 41 349 49 49, fax +41 41 349 49 00, h2982@accor.com, www.ibis.com. 69 rooms. Breakfast 15Sfr., parking 7Sfr/ night, pet 20Sfr, Wi-fi and cable internet incl. Doubles can be booked as singles. A6LW hh JAILHOTEL LÖWENGRABEN This was Lucerne’s jail from 1862 to 1998 and has since been transformed into a hotel. Most rooms are former cells, but bathrooms with shower and toilet have been added. Four cells called the �unplugged’ rooms remain in their original state for a real jail-like experience. There are also four suites which occupy other rooms, such as the original prison library. Comfort is basic but quite decent.QB-3, Löwengraben 18, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 78 30, fax +41 41 410 78 32, info@lhgroup.ch. 56 rooms. Breakfast 15Sfr, Wi-fi in the lobby free, no internet in rooms. A6 lucerne.inyourpocket.com SONNENBERG Sonnenberg means ’sun mountain’, and that describes this hotel and its bucolic location well. Literally at the edge of a forest on a hill above Kriens, the Sonnenberg offers panoramic views of the lake and mountains. Many of the inviting rooms were refurbished recently, they have parquet floors, clean-lined furniture, and a coherent colour scheme. They are equipped with a flat-screen TV, a capsule coffeemachine and a desk. The very affordable single rooms have shared bathrooms. There is free parking, and a public transport connection which gets you to Lucerne in just under 30 min.QZumhofstrasse, Kriens, tel. +41 41 320 66 44, fax +41 41 320 66 14, info@hotelsonnenberg.ch, www.hotelsonnenberg.ch. 14 rooms. Breakfast 15Sfr., Wi-fi and cable internet free. THA6LKW TOURIST Though a simple hotel, the Tourist has a wonderfully central location, on the edge of the old town, right by the River Reuss. The elementary but attractive rooms have flatscreen TVs, hairdryers and some even have balconies facing the river, though there is a (quiet!) road inbetween. Some rooms are with shared bathrooms.QA-3, St. Karliquai 12, uBrüggligasse, tel. +41 41 410 24 74, fax +41 41 410 84 14, info@touristhotel.ch, www.touristhotel.ch. 25 rooms. Breakfast buffet and Wi-fi incl. AUW OUT OF TOWN HOTEL UND BILDUNGSZENTRUM MATT Set in the gentle, green hills west of Lucerne, the Matt is a hotel as well as a compact seminar and conference centre. The welllit rooms in this modern structure all have balconies, parquet floors, and are simply but tastefully decorated. Massages and yoga sessions can be booked, and there are many hiking options right on the doorstep. A bus and train connection gets you to the centre of Lucerne in half an hour.QMattstrasse 19, Schwarzenberg bei Luzern, tel. +41 41 499 70 99, fax +41 41 499 70 90, info@bzmatt.ch, www.bzmatt.ch. 49 rooms. Breakfast and Wi-fi in public areas incl., no Wi-fi or cable internet in rooms. THA6ULKW PILATUS KULM Built in 1890, this hotel has a rich Belle-Epoque interior which was recently restored to its original beauty. Located at over 2100 metres a.s.l. on Mount Pilatus, you might be forgiven for missing the architecture in favour of the captivating views deep into the Alps. The rooms have been refurbished in a contemporary, low-key style, with Alpine inspired wood and colour accents and design furniture. The hotel can only be reached by cable car or the cogwheel railway. Travel time to Lucerne is 1h15min.QPilatus, tel. +41 41 329 12 12, fax +41 41 329 12 13, hotels@pilatus.ch, www.pilatus.ch. 30 rooms. hhh SEMINARHOTEL SEMPACHERSEE This hotel and conference centre is in quiet Nottwil, a village on the shores of Lake Sempach, approx. 20km north-west of Lucerne. The lake offers attractive walks - or wind-surfing. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket Rooms are in a modern, attractive design with hardwood floors and small balconies. All rooms are equipped with a TV, telephone, minibar and a hairdryer. Apart from a selfservice restaurant, there is a well-appointed full service restaurant and a bar. With the free hotel shuttle and the train you can reach Lucerne’s centre in 25 min.QKantonsstrasse 46, Nottwil, tel. +41 41 939 23 23, fax +41 41 939 23 24, info@dasseminarhotel.ch, www.dasseminarhotel.ch. 149 rooms. Breakfast incl., free Wi-fi and cable internet. HA6UFLKCW hhh THORENBERG The Thorenberg is a small hotel on the green edge of the Lucerne suburb of Littau, 8km from the centre of Lucerne. The bright rooms with large windows have a modern, pleasant design and come with flat-screen TV, radio and hairdryer. The in-house restaurant cooks to a high standard. There are train (6 min) and bus connections to the centre.QThorenbergstrasse 5, Luzern-Littau, uLittau station (train and bus), tel. +41 41 250 52 00, fax +41 41 250 52 73, info@thorenberg.ch, www.thorenberg.ch. Wi-fi incl. KW hhh VILLA HONEGG If you want to escape into nature for a luxurious break, this small boutique five-star superior hotel is located on Mount Bürgenstock, 20 minutes drive from Lucerne. After major renovations the hotel, built in 1905, reopened its doors in its current form in 2011. The restaurant was awarded 14 Gault Millau points and offers Arabian and local specialities. E-bikes and golf carts are available free of charge for guests to explore the surroundings and the hotel has a private cinema for lazy days. The heated outdoor infinity pool offers incredible views over both Lake Lucerne and the Swiss Alps.QHonegg, Ennetbürgen, tel. +41 41 618 32 00, fax + 41 41 618 32 01, info@villa-honegg.ch, www.villa-honegg.ch. 18 rooms. Breakfast,Wi-fi and cable internet incl. PTHA6UFLBKDCW hhhhh HOSTEL LUZERN YOUTH HOSTEL This pleasant youth hostel is in a residential area on the edge of Lucerne, but a regular bus service gets you to the centre of town in just 12 minutes. The hostel has a lounge area, a reading room, a children’s corner, a billiards table and table tennis outside. Rooms are in good condition, have parquet flooring and many look out onto the garden. Apart from the good buffet breakfast, you can have lunch and evening meals in the cantine.QSedelstrasse 12, uJugendherberge, tel. +41 41 420 88 00, fax +41 41 420 56 16, luzern@ youthhostel.ch, www.youthhostel.ch/luzern. 45 rooms. Breakfast and Wi-fi incl. Most rooms have shared bathrooms. Use of an internet terminal 4.5Sfr/h. Hostelling International membership required: day’s membership 6Sfr, 12Sfr for families, yearly card 33Sfr. THAULK October 2014 - March 2015 45 e in de ns tr. en ste ig Dr eil se i Hald ens te pe llb Online boat rental Inseli bus stop lookout g Frohburgste Print Gü te rst ra ss e z lat esp nd Alpenq a lim Mobile uai be rg st r. ss Rö 500 m La tr. nde tts n Ufschötti sli R ös tt ma fst r. ho e cil Al pe nq ua i -G er ub La se as - e- se © OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License. Tr ib nd Cé Ga La We rk m eu -N na n A en be rg as str se Trib sche nstr asse e ss n- an a s selw eg r. ra st en rg Grim st of Bü Fruttst rasse kh te se as str ig ün r B er W at Trib sch en str ass e g we Kantisteg Bu lim Spannortstrasse te g ss herstr a sse fts We r fte st r. sse tra ers ätt t s ld Wa Neuweg W er 0 Mythenstr. Ble ic quai swimming Rö Bu n ne r tourist info. se as str en rg Bü Birk str.en- er i Obergrunds trasse Dr eil ind w Liebenau eg in emlinra ss e tra e ss rü ck Kramga sse Krong. M ünzg. Kapuzinerweg ss e tra Br ambe r g höh e Fried ber gs chi llin old -S eb Di Lu z lquai Nationa ua Burgerstrasse skanerplatz Franzi Haldenstr. Carl-Spitteler-Quai rasse Haldenst eliq I ns usstr asse strasse Zin ggentorstrasse e Fr oh burgstrass asse Kellerstr enha gnetmatt Markuskirche KKL Zentralstrasse Ta ub G ese e . lerstr ald nnh Bru e sw il ig ste Li ue ss e Sp re t ra . rstr tne St. Leodegar im Hof (Hofkirche) r. e ss Titli Gär Stif t s t Lu str. nna St. A weg . str e ass str se en ras Alp s t r. of Lukaskirche Neustadtstrasse s se Hei matweg Claridens trasse Bire str.gg- gen as s tr Klinik St. Anna T iv olis t r. old town stroll (see p. 31) r. ra hs t Him m e lric Schlossstr. Adli e rg feld Kunstmuseum nst se e ss tra ss de Tödistr. A h ornstr. rha eize Schw se ras rst ile sw n e e l ig Adnfeldstrass Linde se ras Rigist n d en r. usst rte se ras rst rge u b bs Ha ras e tra sse e ass str ied elr nk Wi rst gist ra ss nstrasse Alter Friedhof The only guide to Zurich you will ever need! Vierwaldstättersee rga g we nn che Guggiweg Gu g ers ma rna e as s Do st r ch en r. eg . St. Annastr i Mo uff Bru ck Re r Mu ch ba tr. ens ing dold Gun se ras hlst nbü n o S lisb H it z Universität Luzern Moosstras Helvetia-Park se Sälihügel t hls bü eg Ka tr. Sälistrass e g d s c h auw e erg strasse hib Sc Luzern Bahnhof sse tra ers ach mp Se sse tra tts ma sch Hir ers se ras eg herw ffach Stau t sc Die e eiz hw latz Bahnhofp e ass str en nk a r F Vögeligärtli ng sst a tu ua se ras sst u t a Pil se hri se ras ttst ma Von Pil fq rho Rosengart se ras dst eg rw ile Zä se ras rst fou Du KV Luzern st sse ra s um La n museum Flora w r st eg w en Bl sha.u t d r Sta st e rgrun e ass Str erfyff P ir sim Ka nplatz Jesuitenkirche n e ab Franziskanerkirche ngr he ri sc H Konservatorium church se Bahnhofstras Seiden hofstra ite Je su e ass Ka Th ea t e lig. Rüt g w Hall Ob e ass str rg. s te tr rs lta ra e ass str ch se Bru as G ib ühls chb tr. 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Qu B r ü a i g gl ig se ras gst seg Mu Tö p m egg Mus se Re är Ka rli- Ab e Dre ilind e ass str en ed se Fri ras fst Ho tr. ofs dth Sta in tra at hm u l F ) Wall segg (Mu ha u s Fe l sb ergstrasse Löwenplatz Bourbaki of e nh r aue riahilfg as Ma S t. in n we Lö sse rstra rime Sch dsc h öhe nn e gg M use rass e gs t se g u M Auf Rebhalde dr a en Ab se ras yst We So alk in F g. gra seg Mu g g lstr. in str. den ain land eg gis tt we k ma D en nw Alle ass L an g Löwendenkmal sse stra Berg S tr g- eu Gletschergarten Kr z ma eg eg lem attr We s Flu hma ttw talw M üh e s e m il in rin We semlin g rin ig ste erg Mü hlem a ttstrasse ramb B ilit rasse e Zürichst einenstrasse St All win n de W e sse ra tst at berg m s is rb ram Hinte Ge sse ergstra Bramb M e öh Fluh mattstrass e ass lstr ita Sp rlistr. St. Ka hh ra sse Kantonsspital Sp i ergst LUCERNE Flu d grun Fluh R o s enb Libellenstr. Fri se lstr as ede n ta sc he nh or nw eg zurich.inyourpocket.com 21 211 13 72 61 Lohrensäge Riffig Bösfeld Rothenburg Dorf Bahnhof 45 Chörbli 43 Benziwil Hübeli Ost Waldstr. Schaubhus Ober Gersag Celtastr. 44 Sportplatz S6 S61 h Sc üt Littau Gasshof ze nh a us Bl at te nm M s oo ic ha el s Lä f ho ng w e e ih r Rö nn im s 10 oo i ra n Gr en z Ka no f ho ne t ns r. Schwimmbad Mooshüsli Abendweg Eigenthal Friedhofstr. Sidhalde Obernau Dorf 20 202 Guetrüti Roggernhalde Himmelrichstr. 71 Grossfeldstr. Südpol Nidfeld 16 Steinibach S5 Giswil S55 Sachseln Hergiswil Steinen Spitz Technikumstr. Spier Ennethorw Mühlehof Hergiswil Matt Obermatt Allmendli Pilatusmarkt 14 20 201 15 Wiggenhof es e er eg eg ns t n n c h c h t w z w K r i em a t ha kir una por uer n er S La Z St Oberkuonimatt Grabenhof Rosenstr. 21 Dattenmatt Kuonimatt Jo Krauerhalle Stampfeli Hammerschmiede Feldmühle 82 821 Feldmatt 1 71 15 Gallusstr. PilatusBahnen Kriens Busschleife Klösterli Bachstr. Kirchbühl Jos. Schryberstr. Südstrasse Senti St. Niklausengasse Kreuzstutz Gütsch Eichhof 20 Rank Horw Zentrum Kirchweg Wegscheide Waldegg Zihlmattweg S4 Wolfenschiessen S44 Stans 21 53 Hasli 1 Rosenberg Schlossberg Luzern Bahnhof Mättiwil Kantonalbank Bundesplatz Wey Dorni 21 10 101 Weitblick Unterlöchli 26 Gartenheim 7 Zwyssigplatz Morgenweg Sc Lü tz h Kloster el Le lös m Felsberg um sli at Rig ra i ts in Dreilinden t r. s t r. a t t St. Niklausen LU Waldwinkel Schlössli Schweizerheim Mühlegg Gerbe i g er 101 10 (bus) stop in at least two zones zone number for single tickets zone number for monthly/yearly passes train buses Public transport lines and zone map for the Greater Lucerne Area e op 411 41 Meggen Gottlieben Gi urg Büttenen eb he Kreuz se hö n er urg gge 25 b f Huob O eb E b r o i e Eu dh tt ch us s s r e a a Kapelle i e h 73 et Fr hm üti rs Ob Di l ch uc chr rli eh Meggen 29 üe is B o rk e Bahnhof gl Br H öst he Ve l En c r. t r Sc K ki Meggen ds h s l lö S3 iu fe Zentrum s P e g Ba sl r i Se lm bu gee Ro ur e lS se eb nd te nh e o ä L S ffl H al er de ch ge hi en ita Sc 24 bü rm hl He l se Obermattstrasse 24 20 203 Meggen Tschädigen Büttenenhalde Böschenacher 6 Würzenbachmatte 8 Hochhüsliweid Schädrütihalde Würzenbach Luegisland Talrain 41 411 Küssnacht Dreiangel Schützenmatt Robmatt Feissenacher Käppelihof Meierskappel Dorfplatz 402 Breitfeld Ibikon Weidstr. Schulanlagen 73 Rotkreuz Bahnhof Süd 40 403 Udligenswil alte Post 29 401 40 S1 Baar r. Adligenswil st eim ost al P Dorf uh nt ze Ne Gämpi t Gö Rigiblick l et üe bn s te i sp t id s at ag liä oo W Po Bl S Ch M Zentralschulhaus Sagenschulhaus Honau Schlosshof Wilweg Root Dorf Ronmatt Root D4, Oberfeld Gisikon–Root Bahnhof Perlen Perlen Post Dorf 110 K a G ä t K o n K l i n Schlösslihalde w pu rtn oriu se ik e g z i e r m r v S t Brüelstr. ne st a- . A r- r. n n 14 a Krämerstein Kastanienbaum 22 Haslirain MaihofmatteRotsee Schulhaus Unterlöchli oen ld eig asin ce Ha st C ala P Weggismatt Jugendherberge Falken Hünenberg St. Klemens Maihof 23 Werkhofstr. Weinbergli Eisfeldstr. Zu Wartegg m ba Schönbühl Hi c rt hh 6 Matthof en of Bodenhofterrasse h o Stutz f Geissenstein 8 Haslihorn Sternmatt Langensand 7 Rodtegg Biregghof Kreuzmatt Buholz Felmis Gopplismoosweg Urnerhof 10 101 Bramberg Friedbergstr. 19 Geissmatthöhe Mühlemattstr. Wesemlinrain Brüggligasse Lö w en Lu pl at Sc ze z rn hw er an h of en pl at z 9 Brünigstr. Tiefe Steghof 4 Breitenlachen Mönchweg Stegen Hofrüti 19 Reussport 20 22 Inwil Dorf Reussbrücke Root D4 Bahnhof Bu Eichmatt Ba ch Buchrain Dorf hn rai ho n Kirchbreite f Dierikon Migros Ronstrasse Fildern 26 Halte Ebikon Schindler Ottigenbühl Bahnhof Hartenfels MParc Sc Sc h ha m Höfli ch ied Hofmatt Höchweid en h Ladengasse w of ei Löwen d Breitfeld 54 Sagenwald Oberhofen Pannerhof Hochdorf 20 203 202 Flugzeugwerke 41 St. Karli Kantonsspital Pilatusplatz Hubelmatt S4 S44 S5 S55 Moosegg Luzern Allmend/ Messe Gemeindehaus Schifflände Mattli Werkhof Horw Bahnhof 20 Kriens Mattenhof Bahnhof 14 Emmen Kirche S9 S9 Lenzburg Waldibrücke Bahnhof Allmendli Unter Spitalhof Lindenheim Emmen Sternen Lindenfeldring ke üc Schwanderhofstr. br en of Sedelstr. m nh m Fichtenstr. E ah S1 B Emmen Center Hochdorferstr. Marienkirche Friedental 18 ke üc br en m ag of Em ers nh G ah B Emmen Rüeggisingen Kasernenstr. 31 311 Kasernenplatz Gabeldingen Obergütschstr. Gabeldingen Schulhaus Bergstr. . . . . ld str sch ald istr str str a Obergütschrain f r r Hirzenhof l t Dattenbergliw ho gü chw erg nge ste Zumhof rain i o 15 s ge tein ter Obergütschhalde l B r t i K h G S Gü Franziskanerplatz Un Obere Zä Obere Ehrendingen Dattenbergstr. Obergütsch Steinhofrain Weinhalde Oberhusrain Dattenberg Zumhofstr. UnterOberhusweg Sonnenbergstr. 11 Dattenberg Eichenspes Gemeindehaus SchappeSteinhof Linde- Hofmatt- Schachen- Alpen- Kupfer- GrossPulvermühle Center Paulusplatz Pilatus Bellpark strasse strasse hammer hofstr. S6 Langenthal/ Langnau i.E S61 Schachen 20 202 60 70 72 61 60 70 Mauritiusring Eichenring Buzibach S18 51 50/52 Lindau Listrig Riffigstr. Ref. Kirche 41 Strassenkreuz i ng re g Sp in l z n Ruswil h of te enr 42 e t ü l at h a rl Sempach-Station p l Krauerstr. Er nb eu nm E e N en Neuenkirch hö le er Central se Alp ing onn Sc Ettiswil Er r S ie Ob n W Emmenbaum de e al er t H Staldenhof Un Rothenhalde Zollhaus Schachenhof Seetalplatz Reussbühl Frohburg Ruopigen Ruopigen Zentrum Schulhaus Säntihof 2 Staffeln Schulhaus Schwimmbad Schiff Littau 45 Fluhmühle Bahnhof Ref. Kirche Ruopigenhöhe Grenzweg 12 Matt Littau Dorf S18 Sursee Rothenburg Bahnhof 13 Wahligen Nord (IKEA) Rain Menziken /Rickenbach LU Bertiswil Benziwil West Stuben 31 311 Mattenhof Bühl Rothenburg Flecken 29 Küssnacht S3 Brunnen Eschenbachstr. Gültig ab 15.12.2013 (Stand 15.10.2013) Änderungen vorbehalten Street Register Abendrain D1 Abendweg D1, D2, E2 Adligenswilerstrasse D2, E2, F1, F2 Ahornstrasse B6 Allenwindenstrasse B2 Allewindenring A1, B1 Alpenquai D5, E5, E6, F6 Alpenstrasse C2, C3 Anna-Neumann-Gasse D6, E6 Auf Musegg A3, B3 Badergässli B3 Bahnhofplatz C4 Bahnhofstrasse A4, B4, C4 Baselstrasse A3, A4 Bergstrasse B2, C1, C2 Bireggstrasse B6 Birkenstrasse B6 Bleicherstrasse B6 Blumenweg B4 Bramberghöhe A2, B1, B2 Brambergrain A2 Brambergsteig A2 Brambergstrasse A2, B2, C2 Brandgässli B3, B4 Brüggligasse A3 Bruchmattstrasse A5 Bruchstrasse A3/A5, B5, B6 Brünigstrasse C6, D6 Brunnhalde F1, F2 Bundesplatz C5, C6 Bundesstrasse B6, C6 Buobenmatt B4 Buobenmattpassage B4 Bürgenstrasse D5, D6, E6 Burgerstrasse A4 Carl-Spitteler-Quai E2, F2 Cécile-Lauber-Gasse D6, E6 Claridenstrasse B6 Cysatstrasse A3, B3 Denkmalstrasse C1, C2 Diebold-Schilling-Strasse A2, A3, B2 Dietschibergstrasse F1 Dornacherstrasse B5 Dreilindensteig E1, F1 Dreilindenstrasse C2, D2, E1, E2, F1 Dufourstrasse A5 Eisengasse B3 Englischgrussstrasse D2 Falkengasse B3 Felsbergstrasse D1, D2 Fischmarktgässli B3 Floraweg C4 Fluhgrund B1 Fluhhöhe B1 Fluhmattrain C2 Fluhmattstrasse C1, C2 Fluhmattweg C1, C2 Flumatt-Treppe C1 Frankenstrasse B4, B5, C4 Franziskanerplatz A4 Friedbergstrasse A1, A2, B1 Friedenstrasse C2 Friedentalstrasse A1, B1 Frohburgsteg C5, D4, D5 Frohburgstrasse C4, D4 Fruttstrasse C6 Furrengasse B3 Gärtnerstrasse E1, E2 Geissmattbrücke A3 Geissmatthöhe A2 Geissmattstrasse A1/A3 Gerbergasse B3, C3 Gesegnetmattstrasse E2, F2 Gesegnetmatt-Treppe F2 Gibraltarrain A4 Gibraltarsteig A4 Gibraltarstrasse A4 Gotthardstrasse C2 Grabenstrasse B3 Grendel B3, C3 Grendel-Passage B3 Grimselweg C6, D6 Grundeck Passage B5 Guggistrasse A6 Guggiweg A6 Gundoldingenstrasse F1 Güterstrasse C5, C6, D5 Gütschstrasse A3 Habsburgerstrasse B5, C5 Haldenrain F2 Haldensteig D2 Haldenstrasse D2, D3, E2, F2 Hallwilerweg A4, A5, B5 Hans-Holbein-Gasse B3 Heimatweg B6 Hertensteinstrasse B3, C2, C3 Hexenstiege C1, C2, D1 Himmelrichstrasse B5, B6 Hinterbramberg A1, A2 Hirschengraben A4, B4 Hirschmattstrasse B4, B5, C5 Hitzlisbergstrasse E1, E2, F1 Hofstrasse C2, D2 Hochbühlstrasse A4 Im Zöpfli B4 Inseliquai D4, D5 Jesuitenplatz B4 Johanna-Hodel-Gasse E6 Kantisteg F6 Kapellbrücke B3, B4, C3 Kapellgasse B3 Kapuzinerweg C1, D1, D2 Kasimir-Pfyffer-Strasse A4, A5 Kauffmannweg B5, B6 Kaufmannweg B5 Kellerstrasse C6 Kesselgasse A4 Klosterstrasse A4, A5 Kornmarkt B3 Kornmarktgasse B3 Kramgasse B3, B4 Kreuzmattweg C1, D1 Krongasse B4 Landenbergstrasse D5, E5, E6, F6 Landschaustrasse D1, E1 Landschauweg E1 Langensandbrücke C6 facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket Ledergasse B3, C3 Libellenstrasse A1 Liebenauweg D1 Lindenfeldsteig E2, F2 Lindenfeldstrasse E2, F2 Löwengartenstrasse C1, C2 Löwengraben A3, B3 Löwenplatz C2 Löwenstrasse C2, D2 Löwenterrasse C2 Luegetenstrasse A2 Luegislandegg A3 Luzerner Originale-Gässli A3 Luzernerquai F2, F3 Mariahilfgasse B3 Mariahilfsteig B3 Metzgernbögli B3 Metzgerrainle B3, B4 Militärstrasse A3, A4 Moosmattstrasse B6 Moosstrasse B5, B6, C6 Morgartenstrasse C4, C5 Mühlemattrain A2 Mühlemattstrasse A2 Mühlenplatz A3, B3 Münzgasse B4 Murbacherstrasse B5, C4, C5 Museggrain B3 Museggstrasse A3, B2, B3, C2 Mythenstrasse B6, C6 Nationalquai D3, E2, E3 Neustadtstrasse C5, C6 Neuweg B6, C6 Obergrundstrasse A4/A6, B4/B6 Passage zum Stein C3 Pfistergasse A4 Pilatusstrasse A5, B4, B5, C4 Rathausquai B3, C3 Rathaus-Steg B3, B4 Rebhalde A3 Reckenbühlstrasse A6 Reckenbühltreppe A6, B6 Reusssteg A4, B4 Rigistrasse E2, F1, F2 Robert-Zünd-Strasse C4 Rosenbergstrasse B1 Rosengässli B4 Rössligasse B3 Rösslimatte D6 Rösslimattstrasse D5, D6 Rösslimattweg C6, D6 Ruflisbergstrasse D1 Rütligasse A4 Sälihügel A6, B6 Sälistrasse A5, A6, B6 Sankt-Leodegar-Strasse D2 Sedelstrasse A1 Seebrücke C3, C4 Seehofpassage C3 Seehofstrasse C3 Seidenhofstrasse B4, C4 Sempacherstrasse B4, C5 Sepp-Ebinger-Gässli B3 Schirmertorweg B3 Schlossergasse B3 Schlossstrasse A6 Schlossweg A6 Schrimerstrasse A2, B2 Schützenstrasse A4 Schwanenplatz C3 Schweizerhausstrasse E1, E2 Schweizerhofquai C2, C3, D2, D3 Sonnbühlstrasse D1, D2, E1, E2 Sonnenhof B2 Spannortstrasse B6, C6 Spelteriniweg E6 Spitalstrasse A1 Spitalweg A1, A2 Spreuerbrücke A3, A4 St. Annastrasse F1 St. Karli-Quai A3 St. Karlistrasse A3 Stadthausstrasse B4 Stadthofstrasse C2, D2 Stauffacherweg D1, E1 Steigerweg E1 Steinenstrasse C1 Steinentreppe C1 Sternenplatz B3 Stiefelplatz C3 Stiftstrasse D2 Süesswinkel B3 Suva Passage D5, D6 Taubenhausstrasse A6, B6 Theaterstrasse B4 Theilinggasse B3 Titlisstrasse E1, E2 Tivolistrasse F2 Tödistrasse B6 Töpferstrasse C2, C3 Tribschenhornweg E6, F6 Tribschenstrasse C6, D6, E6 Tulpenstrasse A6 Ulmenstrasse B6 Unter der Egg B3, B4 Unterlachenstrasse D6 Urnerhofweg A1 Vonmattstrasse A5 Wagenbachgasse C3 Waisenstrasse A3 Waldstätterstrasse B5, C5 Weggisgasse B3 Weinmarktgasse B3 Werftestrasse D5 Werftsteg D4, D5, E5 Werchlaubengässli B3 Werkhofstrasse D5, D6, E5 Wesemilinring C1, D1 Wesemlinhöheweg E1 Wesemlinrain C1 Wesemlinstrasse C1 Weystrasse C2, D2 Winkelriedstrasse B4, B5, C5, C6 Zähringerstrasse A4, A5 Zentralstrasse C4, C5 Zinggentorstrasse D2, E2 Zum Eselstall B3 Zürichstrasse C1, C2 Zyböriweg A2 October 2014 - March 2015 49 Index Aeschbachs Chocowelt 32 Alfred Caffebar 22 Alpineum Kaffeehaus Bar 24 Ambassador 43 Art Deco Hotel Montana 42 Bar 59 25 Bar Berlin 23 Barbès 17 Bellevue 43 Besito Milonga 25 Brasserie Bodu 17 Bucherer 37 Cabanas 17 Café César 22 Café de Ville 22 Caroline 33 Casagrande Gift Shop 35 Casa Tolone 18 Casineum 26 Cheese Fondue Cruise 40 Chez Cassis 22 Chills 16 Chimney's Steakhouse 20 Christkindlimarkt 36 CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 37 Churrascaria Do Sul 20 Comme Ca 34 Companys 34 Confiserie Bachmann 35 Continental-Park 42 Das schwarze Schaf / Das weisse Schaf 26 De La Paix 43 Designschenken 36 doodah 35 Du Pont 26 Einhorn 18 Emmen Center 36 Engelberg - Titlis 41 Falken 44 Felsenegg Garten Restaurant 19 Fine & More 35 Fitnesspark Allmend 40 Fondue House 19 Forum Schweizer Geschichte Schwyz 28 Frigay Night (at the Loft Club) 24 Früh'ling 34 Garni Hotel Drei Könige 44 Gletschergarten 29 Globus 33 Golden Pass - Panoramic Train 41 Grand Casino Luzern 23 Grand Hotel Europe 43 Grieder 34 Grottino 1313 18 Guess 34 Guided Titlis tour 29 Harry's Souvenir Shop 36 Heini 35 Hess Uhren 37 Historical museum 32 Hofgarten 21 Hotel ALPINA Luzern 44 Hotel Garni Spatz 44 Hotel MONOPOL Luzern 43 50 Lucerne In Your Pocket The Lion Monument is a must-see no matter the season. Hotel und Bildungszentrum Matt 45 Ibis Luzern Kriens 44 Ibis Styles Luzern City 44 Jailhotel Löwengraben 44 Jasper 16 Jazzkantine 22 Jesuitenkirche 27 Kaiten Sushi-Bar 16 Kanchi 16 Kapellbrücke 27 KKL Lucerne 28 Klub Kegelbahn 26 Kurz Jewellery & Watches 37 Lake Lucerne cruises 28 Louis Bar (Art Deco Hotel Montana) 23 Löwendenkmal 27 Lozärner Weihnachtsmärt 36 Lucerne museum card 27 Lucerne Tourism city tours 29 Luzerner Handwerksmarkt 36 Luzernerhof 44 Luzern Youth Hostel 45 Madeleine 23 Mammut Store 35 Manor 34 Marc O'Polo 34 Matrouvaille 36 Max Chocolatier 35 Meiringen-Hasliberg 41 Mekong 16 Metzgerhalle 24 Meyer. Kulturbeiz. 23 Mount Rigi 30 Nachbar 24 Neubad 25 New Manhattan 26 Outdoor Ice Skating with a View 40 Partout 35 Pilatus 30 Pilatus Kulm 45 PinkPanorama Film Festival 24 Pumpels Baby & Mama 32 Punto Giusto 19 Renaissance 42 Restaurant zum Schlüssel 17 Rigi-Hütte 19 Roadhouse 26 Romantik Hotel Wilden Mann43 Salsa 59 25 Sammlung Rosengart 29 Schauraum Nina Staehli 33 Schlössli Utenberg 19 Schloss Meggenhorn 32 Schmocker Souvenirs 36 Schüür 25 Schweizerhof 42 Seminarhotel Sempachersee 45 Sledging in Central Switzerland 41 Sonnenberg 45 Sörenberg 41 MikeNG/Shutterstock Spielkiste Stadtkeller Stern Luzern St.Magdalena Bar and Restaurant Stocker Books Stoos Storchen Suite (Hotel Monopol) Swiss Corner Fresco Thorenberg Tourist Transa Transport Museum Treibhaus Tunnel Villa Honegg Wiederkehr Wirtshaus Galliker Wirtshaus Taube Young Designers Market Zunfthausrestaurant Pfistern 32 20 20 23 33 41 25 24 36 45 45 35 32 25 26 45 17 20 21 33 21 FEATURES INDEX Adult entertainment Bourbaki Breakfast Cheese restaurants Christmas markets Classical dancing Decoding the menu Lake Lucerne Live music venues Luzern or Lucerne? Meet the hotelier Queer Lucerne Swiss cuisine 26 14 22 19 36 25 18 28 25 7 9 24 20 lucerne.inyourpocket.com
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