WELCOME TO
RIJEKA
BROJ
/
ISSUE 7
|
SRPANJ
/
JULY 2013
|
GODINA
/
YEAR 4
Nije za prodaju / Not for sale
Bicikli / Bicycles
Mrtvi kanal / Dead channel
Nekadašnje
srce grada
Former heart
of the city
Riječkom okolicom
na dva kotača
Sightseeing Rijeka's
surroundings
on two wheels
Tema broja / This edition theme
Vjekovna
odanost moru
Eternal loyalty to the sea
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7/30/13 7:58:07 PM
Investments
&
Development
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00_WTR_K.indd 2
7/31/13 12:44:45 AM
04-07 sadrzaj-uvodnik.indd 3
7/31/13 12:39:49 AM
6. Uvodnik / Editorial
Tema broja / This edition theme
8. Vjekovna odanost moru
Eternal loyalty to the sea
16. Intervju / Interview
Saša Broz
Novi grad / New City
22. Hosteli - smještaj za mlade i one koji se tako osjeaju
Hostels - accommodation for young people
and for those who feel young
26. Mrtvi kanal
Mrtvi kanal (the Dead Channel)
IMPRESSUM
NAKLADNIK / PUBLISHER
Hand Press d.o.o.
Užarska 14, 51 000 Rijeka
e-mail: info@handpress.hr
UREDNIKI KOLEGIJ / EDITORIAL BOARD
Petar Škarpa, Lea Stoiljkovi Medved, Ljiljana Mami
Pandža, Velid eki, Igor Rivetti, Sandra Ivaniševi
IZVRŠNI UREDNIK / EXECUTIVE EDITOR
Sandra Ivaniševi
GRAFIKI UREDNIK / ART DIRECTOR
Marijan Baac
NOVINARI / JOURNALISTS
Velid eki, Ljiljana Mami Pandža, Igor Rivetti,
Larry Ambrozich, Lidija Šušak, Andrea Brali Mari,
Mašenka Vukadinovi, Sanja Krmpoti,
Branka Malnar, Valentino Beni, Danijel Frka,
Loreta Parkelj, Silvija Vidovi, Barbara Cakar
UREDNIK FOTOGRAFIJE / PHOTO EDITOR
Rino Gropuzzo
MARKETING
Hand Press d.o.o.
e-mail: sandra@handpress.hr
PRIJEVODI / TRANSLATION
Prolingua-Ri d.o.o.
TISAK / PRINTED BY
WEB2PRINT d.o.o., Zagreb
NAKLADA / EDITION
4000 kom
ISSN 1847-5019
Izlazi dva puta godišnje
Published twice a year
asopis je realiziran u suradnji s Turistikom
zajednicom grada Rijeke
This magazine was launched in collaboration
with the Rijeka Tourist Board
04-07 sadrzaj-uvodnik.indd 4
32. Prijestolnica kulture
Capital of Culture
36. Glazba, lijepa kao Putokazi
Music, beautiful as Putokazi
39. Akademski centar zdravlja
Academy Health Centre
42. Festival Republika
Republika Festival
44. Posljednji poinak kunih ljubimaca
Last resting place for pets
Intervju / Interview
48. Sandro Sukno
Tako je nekada bilo / Once upon a time
54. Mlikarice
Milkmaids
Sat vremena od Rijeke / Just an hour from Rijeka
58. Rijekom okolicom na dva kotaa
Sightseeing Rijeka's surroundings on two wheels
Zoom
64. Ranko Dokmanovi
Slasni kutak / Tasty corner
70. Šparoge - dražesni pupoljci proljetni
Asparagus - Lovely spring buds
77. Mozaik - dogaanja / Mosaic - Events
82. Kako nas drugi vide / As others see us
7/31/13 12:39:54 AM
8.
16.
22.
26.
32.
36.
39.
48.
58.
70.
04-07 sadrzaj-uvodnik.indd 5
7/31/13 12:40:30 AM
6
Uvodnik
Dragi naši itatelji,
Ovim vas brojem, kao uostalom
i svakim dosadašnjim, pozivamo
da zajedno s nama uronite u rijeku priu. Razgovarali smo sa
Sašom Broz, redateljicom koja je
u Rijeku došla kako bi se prihvatila ravnanja Operom Hrvatskog
narodnog kazališta Ivan pl. Zajc.
Ljetno je vrijeme, a u Rijeci ljeto
ne znai samo more, tu se sastaju rijeka i more, što je ujedno i
tema ovog broja.
04-07 sadrzaj-uvodnik.indd 6
Mrtvi kanal, Rijeanima tako dobro poznat i drag, opisali smo
kroz vrijeme i dogaaje koji su ga
obilježili.
Djeli našeg prostora posvetili
smo i Mlikaricama, ženama koje
su se muile pod teškim teretom mlijeka, sira, pa i drva, iako
je njihova požrtvovnost zaslužila
mnogo više, ega se Rijeani uvijek sjete prolazei Mljekarskim
trgom na kojemu se nalazi spomenik u ast svim mlikaricama
ovoga kraja.
Još jedna rijeka neobinost krije
se u naselju Kozala gdje se nalazi,
meu graanima popularno zvano “groblje pasa”, jedino groblje
kunih ljubimaca u ovom dijelu
Europe.
Ima u ovom broju i pregršt informacija o recentnim zbivanjima u
gradu, pisali smo i recepte u kojima je glavna glumica naša voljena šparoga, a imamo i savjete
za one koji vole biciklizam. Pridružite nam se još jednom u iru
Rijekom!
Uredništvo
7/31/13 12:40:36 AM
7
Editorial
Dear readers,
With this edition, as well as with the
all previous ones, we invite you to
immerse yourselves in the story of
Rijeka with us. We interviewed Saša
Broz, director that came to Rijeka in
order to direct the Ivan pl. Zajc Croatian National Theatre’s Opera.
It is summertime and in Rijeka that
does not mean only the sea; this
is the place where river meets the
sea, which is the topic theme of
this edition.
04-07 sadrzaj-uvodnik.indd 7
We described through time and
events that marked the wellknown and precious for Rijeka’s
inhabitants Mrtvi kanal Channel.
We dedicate a part of this edition
to milkmaids, women who suffered
under heavy loads of milk, cheese
and woods. However, their sacrifice is worth much more and Rijeka’s
inhabitants will always remember
them when passing by the Mljekarski Square on which a monument
dedicated to all milkmaids from
these areas is collocated.
Another Rijeka’s curiosity is hidden
in the Kozala neighbourhood where the, popularly known among
citizens as “dog cemetery” is located, the only pet cemetery in this
part of the Europe.
This edition includes a number of
information about recent events
in the city. We wrote the recipes in
which the main actor was our beloved asparagus and we offered
some advice for cycling enthusiasts. Join us once again in a walk
through Rijeka!
Editorial board
7/31/13 12:40:46 AM
8
Novi grad / New city
Piše / Written by: Slavica Mrki Modri
Gradovi su baš kao i ljudi. Svaki ima drugačiji karakter, drugačiju priču. Priča koju Rijeka baš kao i oni koji su ju kroz
vjekove nastanjivali pričaju, govori o neraskidivoj vezi grada izgrađenog uz riječne obale i morsko plavetnilo. Rijeka
istim intenzitetom ljubi i slatko i slano o čemu najbolje
svjedoče njezina ponekad burna, ponekad mirna, ponekad
tmurna, ponekad svijetla stoljeća. Puno je onih koji su u
08-15_RI i more.indd 8
Cities are just like people. Every city has a different character, a different story. The story that Rijeka and those
who have inhabited it through the centuries, speak of
is about the unbreakable connection of the city built by
the river’s banks and sea’s blueness. With the same intensity Rijeka likes the sweet and the salty which is best
witnessed by its sometimes, turbulent, sometimes quiet,
7/30/13 8:27:39 PM
9
Vjekovna
Rijeka, grad u
kojem se ljube
slatka Rjeina i
slani Jadran
Rijeka, a city in
which the fresh
Rjeina and salty
Adriatic merge
odanost moru
Eternal loyalty to the sea
08-15_RI i more.indd 9
7/30/13 8:27:47 PM
10
Rijeku došli i iz nje otišli nošeni morskim valovima. Puno
je riječkih obitelji kojima je plava njiva stoljećima bila hraniteljica. Puno onih kojima je riječka luka bila jedini izvor
prihoda, baš kao i onih koji su gradeći brodove u riječkom
brodogradilištu gradili bolje sutra i sebi i svom gradu. I ne
treba biti stanovnik ovog, po mnogočemu specifičnog raja
na Jadranu, da bi se uočilo tu vjekovnu vezu s morem. Ona
se može vidjeti, čuti ili jednostavno osjetiti gotovo na svakom „riječkom koraku“.
Vidim ljubav
Vidi se, u samom, Bogom danom geografskom položaju
Rijeke. Vidi se u mnogim riječkim domovima čiji je interijer satkan od djelića cijelog svijeta što su ga komadić po
komadić, nalik puzzlama slagale generacije riječkih pomoraca. Vidi se u riječkim nevjestama koje su, upravo za tim
pomorcima koji su u srcu nosili samo jednu luku, uplovivši
u bračnu, doplovile u riječku luku. Vidi se i u simbolu Rijeke
- morčiću, moretu, „črnom malčiću“ - kako li su ga već sve
nazivali tijekom bogate riječke povijesti. A i on je, doplovio.
Legenda kaže - sa Saracenima. Htio je pokoriti Rijeku, no
ona je, kao i mnoge druge pokorila njega.
08-15_RI i more.indd 10
sometimes dark and sometimes bright centuries. There
are many people who came to Rijeka and left it carried
on the sea’s waves. There are many families of Rijeka for
whom the “blue field” was their breadwinner for centuries. There are many people to whom the Port of Rijeka
was the only source of income, just like those who constructed a better future for themselves and for their city
by building boats in Rijeka’s shipyard. And you do not
have to be the citizen of this, in many ways specific paradise on the Adriatic, to detect this eternal bond with the
sea. It can be seen, heard or simply felt in almost every
“Rijeka step”.
I see love
Love can be seen in the God-given geographic location
of Rijeka itself. It can be seen in many of Rijeka’s homes
whose interiors have been made of pieces from all over
the world. Pieces that were, like puzzles, stacked by
generations of Rijeka’s mariners. It can be seen in Rijeka’s brides who, following these mariners who had in
their hearts only one port, sailing into marriage, sailed
into the Port of Rijeka. It can be seen in the symbol of
7/30/13 8:28:04 PM
11
Sveznajuće bitve
Postoji još nešto iz čega se itekako može iščitati povezanost Rijeke i mora. To nešto su One - kameni,
drveni ili željezni svjedoci te veze. One su bitve, dio
brodske ili lučke opreme koji služi za privezivanje
plovila. Dovoljno je prošetati uz Mrtvi kanal i pogledati one kamene, one koje su nekad služile kao
privezište brojnim brodicama, a danas kao sidro
ljubavnim parovima, pa ni ne brojivši ih shvatiti
kakav je trgovački mooving nekad tamo „stanovao“. Ili pak za šetnje riječkom rivom ili posjeta riječkoj luci obratiti pažnju na one željezne iz kojih
se i doslovno može saznati
štošta o životu ovog grada.
Riječka je luka građena
tijekom 19. i početkom 20.
stoljeća i predstavljala je
osobito važan međunarodni
projekt. Pomnije gledati jer
iščitavši ona reljefna slova s
bitve ćemo iščitati ne samo
njezino podrijetlo i datum
nastanka, već ćemo steći i
donekle jasniju sliku o vremenu postanka, izgradnji i
razvoju riječke luke. Iz tih
par slova shvatit ćemo kako
je Rijeka oduvijek bila i
ostala multietnički i multikulturalni grad, čime se i
danas ponosi.
Čime? Pa, istim oružjem kojim to radi stoljećima. Ljubavlju! „Črni moro“ zaljubio se i u prelijepu Riječanku i u njezin grad, a nastavak znate i sami - iza ili bolje je reći iznad
svih oceana, svih mora i bezbroj valova živjeli su sretno do
kraja života. Onom tko ne vjeruje u ovu priču, samo preporuka - za šetnje ovim čudnovatim gradom što noge umače
u more, a glavu hladi u zelenilu okolnih planina pogledajte
što to krasi uho riječkih sinova i uši riječkih kćeri, što dominira dekolteom prelijepih Riječanki? Bilo u obliku privjeska na lančiću ili broša. Onaj isti „mali črni“, koji je htio biti
pobjednik, pa bio pobijeđen, da bi na kraju ispao dobitnik.
Jer dobio je bingo. Dobio je Rijeku!
Čujem ljubav
A tek čuti vezu Rijeke i mora! I do gluhog bi doprla, jer taj je
zvuk toliko snažan, a opet toliko melodiozan, toliko slikovit.
Rijeka ljubi more i more ljubi Rijeku u tisuću ritmova, partitura, stilova. S tisuću nota ispisanih u vjekovnoj kajdanci. Čuti se
može u škripi jarbola, u napinjanju jedra, u tihom, ritmičnom
brujanju ribarskih brodica što u suton isplovljavaju, a u zoru
se vraćaju riječkoj luci. U šumu krošnji starih kestena što nalik
stražarima čuvaju riječku Deltu, onaj kutak grada u kojem se
08-15_RI i more.indd 11
The all-knowing bollards
There is something else that witnesses the connection
of Rijeka and the sea. This something is Them – the
stone, wooden or iron witnesses of this bond. They are
bollards, the part of boats or port equipment used to
berth boats. You only have to take a walk by the Mrtvi
kanal channel and take a look at these stone bollards,
those that were once used as the berths for many boats
and that today represent an anchor for couples, to become aware, without counting them, of the flow of trade
that once “lived” here. Or on the other hand, whilst
walking through Rijeka’s waterfront or visiting the
Port of Rijeka, to pay attention to
those iron bollards from which you
can literally find so much out about the life of this city. The Port of
Rijeka was built during 19th and
at the beginning of 20th century
and represented a particularly
important international project. If
you look at a bollard more closely,
by its embossed letters, you will
find out its origin and date when
it was made as well as the clearer
image about the time of its origin,
the creation and development of
the Port of Rijeka. In this short text
we will discover what Rijeka was
like and how it came to be the multi-ethnical and multicultural city
with which is it proud of today.
Rijeka – the morčić, moretto, “črni malčić” ( black little boy) – or however it was called during the Rijeka’s
rich history. Even he sailed here. According to the legend, he came with the Saracens. He wanted to conquer
Rijeka but it was Rijeka, like many others, that conquered him.
With what? With the same arms she has been using for
centuries. With love! “Črni moro” fell in love with a
beautiful woman from Rijeka and her city, whilst the rest
of the story is known – behind or, better said, above all
oceans, all seas and countless waves they lived happily
ever after. Here is the advise for those who do not believe
in this story – during a walk through this magical city
that immerses its feet in the sea and cools its head in the
greenery of the surrounding mountains, notice what is
decorating the ears of Rijeka’s sons and daughters, what
is dominating the décolleté of beautiful Rijeka women?
Regardless of whether it is in the form of a pendant on a
necklace or a brooch. The same “mali črni” (little black)
who wanted to be a conqueror, but was defeated to become a winner in the end. Because he won the lottery. He
won Rijeka!
7/30/13 8:28:09 PM
12
tako sočno ljube dva riječka temelja – slatka Rječina i slani Jadran. Čut će se i u Svetištu Majke Božje Trsatske, najdraže nebesnice koju za plovidbe svjetskim morima upomoć dozivaju
riječki pomorci i kojoj u Kapelicu zavjetnih darova pri povratku kući nose zahvale, šapatom ponavljajući u nevolji joj date
zavjete. Ona se ćuti na svakom riječkom jogu, u svakom udarcu
boće u boću, u svakom uzviku za igranja trešete ili muku popraćenom migom oka u igranju briškule, omiljenim igrama
Puno je onih koji su u Rijeku došli i iz nje otišli
nošeni morskim valovima. Puno je riječkih
obitelji kojima je plava njiva stoljećima bila
hraniteljica. Puno onih kojima je riječka luka
bila jedini izvor prihoda, baš kao i onih koji su
gradeći brodove u riječkom brodogradilištu
gradili bolje sutra i sebi i svom gradu
There are many people who came to Rijeka
and left it carried on the sea’s waves. There
are many families of Rijeka for whom the
“blue field” was their breadwinner for
centuries. There are many people to whom
the Port of Rijeka was the only source of
income, just like those who constructed a
better future for themselves and for their
city by building boats in Rijeka’s shipyard
08-15_RI i more.indd 12
I hear love
Say no more about the sound of Rijeka and the sea! Even
the deaf would hear it as this sound is so strong and again
so melodious, so picturesque. Rijeka loves the sea and the
sea loves Rijeka in thousands of rhythms, scores, styles.
With thousands of notes written in the everlasting musical book. It can be heard in the creak of the mast, whilst
straining the sails, in a quiet, but rhythmical humming of
the fishermen’s boats that leave the port with the sunset
and return at dawn. In the murmur of the canopy of old
chestnut trees that, like guards, watch Rijeka’s Delta, that
corner of the city in which two of Rijeka’s foundations so
softly bond – the fresh Rječina and the salty Adriatic. It
will be heard in the Our Lady of Trsat’s Shrine as well, the
favourite dwelling called upon for help by Rijeka’s mariners whilst sailing through the world’s seas and to whom,
in the Chapel of votive gifts when they come home, bring
acknowledgments, whispering and repeating oaths spoken when they were in trouble. It can be heard at Rijeka's
bocce court, every time that boccia hits other boccia, in
every shout when tresette is played or every silence followed by a wink when briscola is played, favourite card
games of every mariner and every coastal man. Mariners and coastal men, they are almost symbols. This love
also vibrates every time the bura or the jugo winds blow.
When the tramontana wind blows or when it is a scorching summer. It vibrates at all times of day and night.
7/30/13 8:28:23 PM
13
svakog pomorca i Primorca. A pomorac i Primorac, to je gotovo jedno te isto. Vibrira ta ljubav i u svakoj buri i za svakog juga.
U vrijeme tramuntane i one teške ljetne žege koja nadilazi pojam pasja vrućina. Vibrira u svako doba dana i noći.
Mirišem ljubav
I miriše. Baš specifično miriše. U cijelom spektru, od teških do
prozračnih mirisa ona kola Rijekom i riječkim akvatorijem.
Ćuti se u riječkoj ribarnici, na obje riječke tržnice na kojima se
nudi svo bogatstvo Mediterana. Miriše u riječkim parkovima i
parkićima koji se, neovisno o godišnjem dobu, diče bogatstvom
bilja i obilja. Posebno onaj kraj gradskog kazališta, još jedna riječka posebnost. Za ljetnih večeri dopire kroz širom otvorene
prozore riječkih kuhinja na čijim se štednjacima spravlja i opet
– Mediteran. O mirisima riječkih plaža obasjanih suncem da
ni ne govorimo, kao ni o riječkim šetnicama uz more. A riječke
noge znaju koliko ih ima. Naime, Rijeka nema šetnice u klasičnom smislu. U njoj se jednostavno šeće uz more. Može i rivom,
a može i dugačkim lukobranom imena Molo longo s kojeg se
Rijeka vidi kao na dlanu. Vidi iz one pomorske perspektive jer
ta neobična riječka šetnica nudi onaj isti pogled kojeg riječki
pomorci toliko željno iščekuju vraćajući se s putovanja. Pogled
koji kaže – doma sam.
I tako je to s morem i Rijekom. Ono njoj od pamtivjeka šumom svojih valova priča najljepše uspavanke, te ju istim
tim valovima ujutro budi. A ona? Dovoljno je reći da je ono
njoj jedino ogledalo kojem vjeruje.
08-15_RI i more.indd 13
I smell love
And it smells. It smells of a particular fragrance. In the
whole spectrum, from heavy to airy fragrances it circulates
through Rijeka and through Rijeka’s waters. It can be felt in
Rijeka’s fish market, on both Rijeka's markets where all the
richness of the Mediterranean is offered. It smells in Rijeka’s parks and little parks that, regardless of the season, are
proud of the richness of its plants and herbs. Especially the
one located by the city’s theatre, another of Rijeka’s curios.
During the summer evenings, through the open windows of
Rijeka’s kitchens where once again, on the stove, is prepared
- Mediterranean. We do not have to mention the fragrances
of Rijeka’s sunlit beaches or Rijeka’s promenades by the sea.
Rijeka’s legs know how many of them are out there. In fact,
Rijeka does not have classical promenades. Here you simply
walk by the sea. You can also walk on the waterfront or on
the long breakwater called Molo longo from which Rijeka
is offered in your palm. It can be seen from a mariner’s perspective as this unusual Rijeka promenade offers the same
view that Rijeka’s mariners so eagerly expect when coming
back from their travels. A look that says – I’m home.
And so this is the story about the sea and Rijeka. The sea
tells its most beautiful lullabies through the murmur of its
waves from times immemorial and uses these same waves
to wake it up in the morning. And Rijeka? Suffice to say that
for it the sea is the only mirror in which it believes.
7/30/13 8:28:33 PM
14
Fiumare i Fiumanka
Brojne su manifestacije čiji su se pokretači zamišljajući ih i razvijajući upravo vodili tom neraskidivom vezom Rijeke i mora. Među inima spomenut
ćemo dvije. Obje su nastale kao rezultat velike
ljubavi mnogih entuzijasta, zaljubljenika u more
i pomorsku tradiciju, obje su dio lipnja u Rijeci i
obje svojim sadržajima u Rijeku privlače brojne
posjetitelje.
Prva je Fiumare – Kvarnerski festival mora i
pomorske tradicije. Održava se početkom lipnja i
njime se Rijeka se vraća stotinu godina unazad.
Oživljava vrijeme kad je prostor uz njezin Mrtvi
kanal bio mjesto intenzivnog trgovačkog prometa. U vrijeme kad su s kvarnerskih otoka kao i iz
svih dijelova Primorja u Mrtvi kanal uplovljavale
brodice prepune robe za prodaju ili daljnji transport, a iz njega isplovljavale također prepune
jer bi iskrcavši ono što imaju ukrcale ono što
nemaju. Primjerice, sol bi mijenjali za brašno, a
ribu, maslinovo ulje i vino za alate, proizvode od
kože, tkanine itd. Fiumare je prigoda da Riječani
i njihovi gosti vide i tradicijske barke, probaju autohtone proizvode, dive se prekrasnim narodnim
nošnjama iz svih krajeva Hrvatske, budu dijelom
interaktivnih radionica pomorskih i ribarskih vještina, brodomodelarskih radionica... Prigoda je to
i da se uživa u tradicijskim pjesmama i plesovima,
organiziranim razgledima kazališta i povijesnih
lokacija užeg središta grada, regati tradicijskih
barki na jedra. Prigoda da se upoznamo s ribarskim, kalafatskim i pomorskim vještinama,
08-15_RI i more.indd 14
da bar na trenutak „zavirimo“ u Rijeku s kraja 19.
i početka 20. stoljeća.
Druga je Fiumanka, jedriličarska manifestacija
što svake godine okuplja skoro dvije stotine jedrilica te više od dvije tisuće sudionika. Termin njezinog održavanja uvijek se veže uz sredinu lipnja, a
ove je godine od 13. do 16. lipnja jedra puna vjetra
imala 14. Fiumanka, na koju su, kao i uvijek, iz Hrvatske i inozemstva pohrlili brojni zaljubljenici u
jedrenje i jedrilice. A ova im kraljica jedriličarskih
manifestacija nudi obilje užitaka. Između ostalog
„Veliku Fiumanku“ (OPEN regata za krstaše), pa
EMSR ili European Media Sailing Race, europsku
medijsku regatu koja će prvi put biti upriličena ove
godine i kojoj je cilj još jednom predstaviti našu
zemlju uoči ulaska Hrvatske u EU. Tu je i Liburnijska regata tj. navigacijska regata krstaša koja se
jedri između Malog Lošinja i Rijeke, potom Rotary
Regata, humanitarna regata Rotary kluba Rijeka,
pa Virtual Fiumanka, regata kojom se jedri iz vlastitog naslonjača jer se radi o kompjuterskoj igrici
„Virtual skipper“, trenutačno najboljoj online
jedriličarskoj simulaciji. Mnogima najzanimljivije
su Liburnijska regata i Velika Fiumanka jer su to,
reći će organizatori Fiumanke, regate za jedrilice
klase OPEN u kojima mogu sudjelovati i amateri.
No ne zbiva se Fiumanka samo na moru. Onaj tko
je samo jednom bio dijelom ovog praznika mora,
vjetra i jedara, zasigurno pamti i urnebesne after
partyje priređene na riječkoj rivi ili u nekom od
brojnih riječkih pubova, klubova i kafića.
7/30/13 8:28:40 PM
15
Fiumare and Fiumanka
There are numerous events whose initiators, whilst
imagining and developing them, were led exactly
by this unbreakable bond between Rijeka and the
sea. We will mention two of them. Both of them were
created as a result of the great love of many enthusiasts, lovers of the sea and maritime tradition, both
take place in June in Rijeka and with their contents
attract a number of visitors to Rijeka.
The first one is Fiumare – the Kvarner Festival of Sea
and Maritime Tradition. It takes place at the beginning
of June when Rijeka goes back to one hundred years
ago. It revives the period when the area by its Mrtvi
kanal channel was the place of intense trade. In the
period when, from the Kvarner islands as well as from
all coastal parts, in the Mrtvi kanal channel sailed boats
full of goods for sale or further transport and also sailed
out full as they would unload what they were carrying
and load again with what they did not have. For example, they would exchange salt for flour, and fish, olive oil
and wine for tools, leather products, fabrics, etc. During
Fiumare, Rijeka’s inhabitants and their guests have the
chance to see traditional boats, to taste autochthonous
products, to admire beautiful popular costumes from all
parts of Croatia, to take part in interactive workshops of
mariners’ and fishermen's skills as well as ship modelling workshops and so on. It also offers the chance to
enjoy traditional songs and dances, organised sightseeing of theatres and historical locations in the city centre
and a regatta of traditional sailing boats. The chance to
experience fishermen and mariners’ skills as well as the
skills of the builders of wooden boats and to “peek” just
08-15_RI i more.indd 15
for a moment back at Rijeka from the end of 19th and
beginning of 20th century.
The other one is Fiumanka, a sailing boat event that
brings together almost two hundred sailing boats
with over two thousand participants every year. It
always takes place in mid-June, whilst this year, from
13th until 16th June sails full of wind saw the 14th
holding of Fiumanka that was, as always, attended by
numerous sailing and sailing boats enthusiasts from
Croatia and abroad. This queen of sailing events offers
a wealth of pleasures. Besides everything else, “The
Big Fiumanka” (OPEN regatta for sailing boats), the
EMSR, European Media Sailing Race that took place
for the first time this year and which has had the aim
of representing Croatia one more time before entering
the EU. Here is also the Liburnia Regatta, which is sailing boats navigation regatta that takes place between
Mali Lošinj and Rijeka, then the Rotary Regatta, a
humanitarian regatta organised by the Rijeka Rotary
Club, then the Virtual Fiumanka, regatta sailed from
your armchair as this is a computer game entitled
“Virtual skipper”, currently the best online sailing
simulation. Many people find the Liburnia and Big
Fiumanka regattas the most interesting as here the
OPEN class sailing boats as well as amateurs can take
part, say organisers of Fiumanka.
But Fiumanka is not an event that takes place only at
sea. Anyone who was once a part of this holiday of the
sea, wind and sails, surely remembers the crazy after
parties organised on Rijeka’s waterfront or in some of
Rijeka’s many pubs, clubs and coffee bars.
7/30/13 8:28:45 PM
16
Intervju / Interview
Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mami Pandža
Saša Broz
RIJEKA JE GRAD DIJALOGA I KULTURE
RIJEKA IS THE CITY OF DIALOGUES AND CULTURE
16-21_INTERVJU.indd 16
7/30/13 8:40:51 PM
17
Redateljica Saša Broz, na prijedlog intendantice Nade
Matošević Orešković, u travnju ove godine imenovana
je ravnateljicom Opere Hrvatskog narodnog kazališta
Ivana pl. Zajca. Kći diplomate Miše Broza i Titova unuka, rođena je 1968. godine u Zagrebu, gdje je završila
osnovnu i srednju školu, istodobno pohađajući i Školu za
klasični balet i ritmiku. Dvogodišnje poslijediplomsko
usavršavanje za balerinu klasičnog baleta završila je na
prestižnom Moskovskom akademskom koreografskom
učilištu. Zbog ozljede stopala karijeru balerine zamijenila je kazališnom režijom koju je diplomirala na zagrebačkoj Akademiji dramske umjetnosti. Saša Broz režirala je
brojne predstave u zemlji i inozemstvu, a kao slobodna
umjetnica angažirana je na brojnim projektima poput
četverostrukog režiranja dodjele Nagrade hrvatskog glumišta. Režirala je i otvaranje 50. Pulskog filmskog festivala. U pulskom Istarskom narodnom kazalištu dvije je
sezone obnašala funkciju ravnateljice, a za vrijeme njenog mandata kazalište je produciralo brojne predstave s
najvećim imenima hrvatskog glumišta i dobilo nagrade
na talijanskom festivalu u Cividaleu i na festivalu u Tivtu u Crnoj Gori.
Gospođo Broz, Vaša prva reakcija na imenovanje
ravnateljicom Opere riječkoga nacionalnog teatra bila je
„da je to ostvarenje Vašeg umjetničkog sna“. Zašto?
Opera je nešto čemu težim već jako dugo. Moje zvijezde
jasno su pokazivale put, ali se očito nešto i u svemiru trebalo posložiti da sve stvari sjednu na svoje mjesto. Iznimno
sam zahvalna intendantici Matošević-Orešković na prilici
i nadam se da ću opravdati njezino povjerenje. Moje iskustvo kao redateljice drame ali i iskustvo koje sam stekla na
prestižnom Moskovskom koreografskom učilištu sasvim
sigurno su dobar temelj za jednu ovakvu funkciju. Pola godine prije nego je stigla ponuda intendantice dogovorila
sam i dvije operne režije tako da je ravnateljska pozicija u
operi HNK Ivana pl. Zajca doista na neki način kruna mojih
trenutačnih profesionalnih motivacija.
Na novu funkciju Pule dolazite u trenutku isticanja
riječke kandidature za europsku prijestolnicu kulture
2020. U čemu vidite najjače adute Rijeke po pitanju
konkurentnosti u odnosu na druge hrvatske gradove?
Rijeku doživljavam kao izuzetno ugodnu multikulturalnu
i otvorenu sredinu koja bezrezervno prihvaća nove struje i ljude. Rijeka je grad dijaloga i kulture; grad gdje se vidi
briga za društvene i socijalne potrebe malog čovjeka. Ulaže
se u sve segmente razvoja, od infrastrukture, socijale, kulture i okoliša. Rijeka je grad koji ima gradonačelnika kojeg
16-21_INTERVJU.indd 17
In April 2013, the director Saša Broz was, at the proposal of
theatre manager Nada Matošević Orešković, named the director of Opera at the Ivan pl. Zajc Croatian National Theatre. The daughter of the diplomat Mišo Broz and Tito’s
granddaughter was born in 1968 in Zagreb where she finished elementary and high school attending at the same time
the Classic Ballet and Rhythmic Dance School. She finished
the two-year post graduate study for classical ballet dance at
Moscow's prestigious Academy Choreography University.
Due to a foot injury she changed her career of ballet dancer
to theatre direction that she graduated at the Zagreb Academy of Drama Arts. Saša Broz directed a number of shows
in Croatia and abroad, whilst as independent artist she took
part in numerous projects such as directing the Croatian
Theatre Awards four times. She also directed the opening of
the 50th Pula Film Festival. In Istria’s National Theatre in
Pula she was the director for two years and during her theatrical mandate she produced a number of shows where the
greatest names of Croatian theatre acted and won awards
at the Italian festival in Cividale and at a festival in Tivt in
Montenegro.
Mrs. Broz, your first reaction when you became the Director
of Opera of Rijeka’s National Theatre was “that your artistic
dream came true”. Why is that?
Opera is something I have been striving for a very long time. My
stars have shown me the way clearly, but obviously some things
in the Universe had to be set so that all things fall into place. I
am extremely thankful to the theatre’s manager MatoševićOrešković for this opportunity and I hope I will justify her trust.
My experience achieved in the field of a drama director as well
as the experience I achieved at the Moscow’s prestigious Choreography University are surely a good foundation for such a role.
Half year before the offer from the theatre’s manager came I arranged two opera directions so that the position of Director of
the Opera of Ivan pl. Zajc Croatian National Theatre is a kind of
crown for my current professional motivations.
You will take this role at the moment when Rijeka highlights
its candidacy for European Capital of Culture 2020. What
are, according to you, the strongest trump cards of Rijeka in
terms of competitiveness with other Croatian cities?
I experience Rijeka as an extremely pleasant multicultural and
open milieu that unreservedly accepts new trends and new people. Rijeka is a city of dialogue and culture, the city in which the
care for the social problems of the little man can be seen. Investments are made in all aspects of development, from infrastructure, social, cultural and environment aspects. Rijeka is a city
which mayor regularly visits the performances of the Croatian
7/30/13 8:40:52 PM
18
...Rijeka je grad dijaloga i kulture;
grad gdje se vidi briga za društvene
i socijalne potrebe malog čovjeka. Ulaže se
u sve segmente razvoja, od infrastrukture,
socijale, kulture i okoliša...
...Rijeka is a city of dialogue and culture,
the city in which the care for the social
problems of the little man can be seen.
Investments are made in all aspects of
development, from infrastructure, social,
cultural and environment aspects...
redovito susrećem na programima HNK-a i koji pokazuje
interes za kulturu prema osobnim afinitetima, a ne prema
službenim i protokolarnim obavezama. Rijeka se razvija i
živi sa svojim građanima i u Rijeci se osjećam odlično.
Zacijelo Vam je poznato kako je Rijeka i prvi hrvatski grad
koji je donio Strategiju kulturnog razvitka. Od kakvog je
to značaja s obzirom na okolnosti u kojima kultura u Hrvatskoj egzistira?
Kulturna strategija grada Rijeke je dugoročni plan razvoja
i sasvim sigurno će se još na njemu raditi. Svakako je bitna
takva vrsta planiranja. Veseli me što je Rijeka prva inicirala
kulturnu strategiju na lokalnoj razini. Nadam se da će uskoro zaživjeti i kulturna strategija na nacionalnom nivou.
Pulskim Istarskim narodnim kazalištem ravnali ste
dvije sezone, a upravo u to vrijeme kazalište je produciralo brojne predstave s najvećim imenima hrvatskog
glumišta i dobilo nagrade na talijanskom festivalu u
Cividaleu i na festivalu u Tivtu u Crnoj Gori. Što je ključ
Vašega uspjeha?
Dok sam vodila Istarsko narodno kazalište, razmišljala sam
kao producent, što činim i sada. No, u Puli sam, nažalost, u vrijeme svog mandata bila zapostavila svoju prvu profesiju - režiju. To ovaj puta neću učiniti, pa me do ožujka 2015. čekaju
dvije operne i četiri dramske režije. Posao ravnateljice opere,
uz umjetničko vođenje ansambla, zahtijeva i konkretan producentski pristup a to mi prilično dobro ide. U poslu sam vrlo
organizirana i uporna. Imam cilj i jasno znam kako ću do njega
doći. Odgovorna sam, volim raditi sa ljudima i rado kažem da
sam tek "prva među jednakima". Ne želim da me funkcija izdvaja - ja sam timski igrač. Umjetnost trebam kao i zrak koji
udišem. Ona me definira kao osobu. Planiram posao na duge
staze i ne postoji niti jedna prepreka koju neću znati preskočiti. Kod mene "ne" ne postoji, ali prije svega, bitan mi je u svemu
ljudski faktor i zato moji kolege vole raditi sa mnom.
Iza Vas su brojne uspješne režije u zemlji i inozemstvu.
U čemu ili u komu pronalazite inspiraciju za svoj rad?
16-21_INTERVJU.indd 18
National Theatre and shows interest in culture according to his
own affinities and not according to official or protocol obligations. Rijeka is developing and lives along with its inhabitants
and here I feel great.
You are surely aware that Rijeka is the first Croatian city
which introduced a Strategy of Cultural development. How
is that significant with regards to the circumstances in which
culture in Croatia exists?
The cultural strategy of the City of Rijeka is a long-term development plan and it will certainly be elaborated greatly in the
future. This kind of planning is certainly important. I am glad
that Rijeka was the first to initiate the cultural strategy on a local level. I hope that the cultural strategy on a national level will
come to life soon as well.
You directed Istria’s National Theatre in Pula for two years
and during that time the theatre produced a number of shows
where the greatest names of Croatian theatre acted and won
awards on the Italian festival in Cividale and in the festival in
Tivt in Montenegro. What is the key to your success?
While I was running the Istria National Theatre I thought as a
producer, which is what I am doing now too. However, unfortunately, during my mandate in Pula I neglected my first profession
– direction. I will not make the same mistake now, so until March
2015 the directions of two operas and four dramas are expecting
me. Besides art management of the ensemble, the job of opera
director requires a specific producer’s approach which I'm pretty
good at. I am very organised and persistent in my work. I have a
clear goal and I know how to reach it. I am responsible, I like to
work with people and I am willingly to say that I am only “the first
amongst equals”. I don’t want to be separated by my role – I am a
team player. I need art as well as I need the air I breathe. It defines
me as a person. I am planning the long-time work and there is no
obstacle I will not know how to surpass. I do not accept “no” for
an answer but the most important thing however is the human
factor and this is why my colleagues like to work with me.
You have left a number of successful directions in Croatia
and abroad. Where or in whom do you find the inspiration for
your work?
I am inspired by everything that surrounds me, but most of all
what I feel in a certain moment or phase of my life. My psyche is
an inexhaustible source of dreams and traumas and there I often
find inspiration.
On one occasion you declared that tiredness became a natural state in you so that it started to cumulate into positive energy. How does that look in practice?
I work best in total chaos. I like when work occupies my time to
the point I don’t know if it’s day or night.
Economists often point out that financial crisis is actually
a stimulation for innovations, development and creation of
some new ideas as well as the stimulation of creativity. Do
you think the same applies to culture?
7/30/13 8:40:52 PM
19
Inspiracija mi je sve što me okružuje, ali ponajviše ono što
osjećam u određenom trenutku ili fazi svog života. Moja
psiha je nepresušan izvor snova i trauma i često iz nje crpim
inspiraciju.
Jednom prigodom ste izjavili da je kod Vas umor postao
prirodno stanje, pa se počeo kumulirati u pozitivnu energiju. Kako to u praksi izgleda?
Najbolje funkcioniram u potpunom kaosu. Volim kad me
posao okupira do te mjere da ne znam je li je dan ili noć.
Ekonomisti često ističu da je financijska kriza zapravo
poticaj za inovacije, razvoj i realizaciju nekih novih ideja te poticanje kreativnosti. Mislite li da isto vrijedi i za
kulturu?
Da bi kulture bilo u nju se mora ulagati. Dakle, bez sredstava
je- nema. No, i najveći budžet nije dakako jamstvo kvalitete.
Osobno ne radim razliku između nisko i visoko budžetnih
predstava, no činjenica je da je opera najveći korisnik programskih i ostalih sredstava i bez novaca opere naprosto ne
može biti. Možete jedino u vlastitom aranžmanu pjevati ispod tuša.
Kako su ovu globalnu financijsku krizu proživjeli slobodni umjetnici, poput Vas, posebice u svjetlu činjenice
da su se u tom vremenu sredstva za kulturu drastično
smanjila?
You have to invest in culture if you want it to exist. So, there is
no culture without resources. However, even the largest budget
does not guarantee quality. Personally I do not make a difference
between low or high budget shows, but the fact is that opera is
the largest user of the programme and other resources and without the money opera simply cannot exist. You can only sing under the shower for yourselves.
How have independent artists such as yourself passed through
this global financial crisis, especially reflecting the fact that
resources dedicated to culture have drastically decreased?
If I complain, I would be considered ungrateful. In the last year
and a half I had five drama premieres. That in our state is a lot.
You were educated to become a ballerina, but due to an injury
you had to give up that profession and you turned to theatrical direction. Do you believe in coincidence?
I do not believe in coincidence, but I believe in the “plan of the
Universe” that opens the world to us and shows us the possibilities and it is up to us to choose the way. Everything in my life
happened for a reason and I learnt most on my own mistakes.
You said about the show “Love Letters for Stalin” which you
directed in the ITD theatre that it was “a small production
that somehow marked a turning point in your private life”.
What were you talking about?
16-21_INTERVJU.indd 19
7/30/13 8:41:04 PM
20
Bila bih nezahvalna kada bih se žalila U posljednjih godinu
i pol dana imala sam pet dramskih premijera. To je za naše
prilike jako puno.
Školovali ste se za balerinu, ali ste zbog ozljede od te profesije morali odustati te ste se orijentirali na kazališnu
režiju. Vjerujete li u slučajnosti?
Ne vjerujem u slučajnosti, ali vjerujem u "plan svemira"
da nam otvori svijet i pokaže mogućnosti, a na nama je da
odaberemo put. Sve u mojem životu dešavalo se s razlogom
i naučila sam najviše na vlastitim greškama.
Za predstavu „Ljubavna pisma Staljinu“ koju ste režirali
u teatru ITD rekli ste da je to „bila mala produkcija koja
je na neki način označila prekretnicu u Vašem privatnom
životu“. O čemu je zapravo riječ?
"Ljubavna pisma Staljinu" su mala produkcija koju sam
režirala u jednom svom privatno delikatnom razdoblju.
Napravili smo predstavu koja je dobila nagrade i u Hrvatskoj, ali ju je imala prilike vidjeti i publika na Madrid Sur festivalu. Sjajne kritike i brojne reprize dale su
mi u to vrijeme vjetar u leđa i jako sam ponosna na tu
suradnju.
Na koji način birate ekipu najbližih suradnika i glumaca
na svakoj pojedinoj predstavi? Osim profesionalnih,
vode li Vas pritom i neki drugi kriteriji?
“Love Letters for Stalin” is a small production that I directed
during a very sensitive private period. We made a show that was
awarded in Croatia but which was performed for the audience
of the Madrid Sur Festival as well. Great critical acclaim and a
number of reruns pushed me at that time and I am very proud of
that collaboration.
How do you choose the team of closest collaborators and actors for each show? Besides professional, are you guided by
some other criteria as well?
More or less I work with regular collaborators who are members of my author team. I like to work with the same people
because during our many years of collaboration we are not
only business partners but we have become friends too. They
know exactly how I function and without a lot of discussion I
get what I want as a director. I am not an authoritative person,
but the opinion of my collaborators is very important to me
therefore I include them in every part of the process. I choose
actors based on the ensemble I work with. Certainly I take care
to mostly use those cadres who are employed. The situation in
opera is a bit different, opera soloists are a regular principle
engagement in projects.
Are theatre artists more conceited compared to some other
professions such as, for example, doctors?
I wouldn’t know that. What I know is that artists are the most
beautiful creatures, emotional and dreamers, fighters and rulers.
16-21_INTERVJU.indd 20
7/30/13 8:41:20 PM
21
Imam manje-više stalne suradnike svog autorskog tima.
Volim raditi sa istim ljudima, jer kroz naše višegodišnje suradnje nismo samo poslovni suradnici već smo postali i prijatelji. Oni točno znaju kako ja funkcioniram pa bez puno
razgovora dobijem to što želim kao redatelj. Nisam autoritativna osoba već mi je mišljenje moj suradnika vrlo bitno
i uključujem ih u svaki segment procesa. Glumce biram u
odnosu na ansambl sa kojim radim. Svakako vodim brigu da
maksimalno iskoristim kadrove koji su na plaći. U operi je
malo drugačije, operni solisti su redoviti princip angažiranja na projektu.
Jesu li kazališni umjetnici sujetniji u odnosu na neke
druge profesije, primjerice liječnike?
To ne bih znala. Ono što znam je da su umjetnici najdivnija
stvorenja, emotivci i sanjari, borci i vladari.
Kako prihvaćate kritike? Naime, često smo svjedoci da
redatelji oštre kritičare njihovih djela prozivaju zbog
nekompetentnosti. Nisu li predstave namijenjene svim
slojevima društva i ne bi li zapravo onaj osjećaj u svakom
čovjeku trebao biti pokazatelj je li nešto vrijedno pažnje
ili ne?
Pametna i konstruktivna kritika može biti relevantan pokazatelj. Postoji i tzv. nepisana kritika, a to je ona koja se
prenosi od usta do usta i takva kritika je također vrlo bitna
no u konačnici prava kazališna publika neće kritiku uzeti
kao osnovno mjerilo svog stava u odnosu na neko kazališno
djelo.
U jednom razgovoru priznali ste da volite držati stvari
pod kontrolom, da uvijek važete sve situacije, baš kao
prava horoskopska vaga, ali i da, kad donesete odluku–
nema natrag. Iz osobnog iskustva znam da to zna biti
prilično naporan proces.
Slažem se, vage su ponekad najnapornije same sebi. Unazad tri godine dosta sam se mijenjala. Puno sam opuštenija
i spontanija; puštam da mi se stvari događaju. Ne zaustavljam procese. Iskustva i lijepa i loša traže od nas da se znamo postaviti da formiramo stav. To se ne događa preko noći.
Priznati sebi pogrešku nije lako, za to trebaju doista godine
iskustva.
Kakva je Saša Broz privatno?
To bi ipak trebali pitati ljude koji me znaju. Ja na sebi ništa
ne bih mijenjala. Sretna sam.
Kako se nosite s odvojenošću od kćeri Sare kojoj je želja
bila srednju školu završiti u Puli?
Jako teško, no matura i prijemni ispiti su blizu, a sva ta događanja, koja ćemo vjerujem nas dvije uspješno prebroditi bit će uskoro iza nas. Sara je iznimno zrela, prekrasna
mlada djevojka. Da, strašno mi nedostaje ali našle smo način i organizirat ćemo život na relaciji Zagreb-Rijeka. Nju,
kao i mene, čekaju novi životni izazovi. Vjerujem u svoju
Saru, malu umjetnicu; ona je bila i bit će biće za koje živim.
16-21_INTERVJU.indd 21
...kulturna strategija grada Rijeke
je dugoročni plan razvoja i sasvim
sigurno će se još na njemu raditi.
Veseli me što je Rijeka prva inicirala
kulturnu strategiju na lokalnoj razini...
...the cultural strategy of the City
of Rijeka is a long-term development
plan and it will certainly be elaborated
greatly in the future. I am glad that
Rijeka was the first to initiate the
cultural strategy on a local level...
How do you accept criticism? In fact, we often witness strict
criticism of a director’s work due to incompetency. Aren’t
shows dedicated to all social classes and shouldn’t the feeling
in every man indicate whether something is worthy of attention or not?
A smart and structural criticism can be relevant indicator. There
is also the, so-called, unwritten criticism, one that is transmitted
from mouth to mouth and as such is very important as well. However ultimately, a real theatre audience will not take criticism as the
main criterion in its attitude with regards to a theatrical piece.
In one interview you admitted that you like to keep things under control that you always weigh up all situations just like a
real Libra but that, when a decision is to be made – there is no
way back. From my personal experience I know that this can
be quite a daunting process.
I agree, Libras are sometimes most tiring for themselves. Three
years ago I changed a lot. I became a lot more relaxed and spontaneous, I let things happen to me. I do not stop the process.
Both good and bad experiences ask us to know how to act and
how to form our attitude. This does not happen over night. It is
not easy to accept the mistakes yourself, years of experience are
needed for that.
How is Saša Broz privately?
You should ask that people who know me. I would not change
anything. I'm happy.
How do you cope with the separation from your daughter
Sara who wanted to finish high school in Pula?
Very hard, but the graduation and entrance exams are close,
and all of these events that the two of us will successfully surpass I believe will soon be behind us. Sara is a very mature,
beautiful young girl. Yes I miss her very much, but we have
found a way and we will organise our life in Zagreb – Rijeka
relationship. New life challenges are waiting for both of us. I
believe in my Sara, my little artist. She was and will be the creature I live for.
7/30/13 8:41:20 PM
22
Novi grad / New city
Piše / Written by: Larry Ambrozich
Treba li vam povoljni
smještaj, Rijeka nudi
hostele ija je ponuda
raznolika i kvalitetna
Hostels - accomodation for young people
and for those who feel young
22-25_HOSTELI.indd 22
If you need affordable
accommodation,
Rijeka offers hostels
which offer variety
and quality
7/30/13 8:52:49 PM
23
Hosteling – najbrže rastuća turistička grana svijeta. Na velikom stablu svjetskog turizma svoju granu sve brže razvija i
Rijeka. Stidljivi počeci hostelinga počinju 2006. godine kad
se otvara prvi Omladinski hostel, smješten u jednom od najljepših kutaka grada, na Pećinama. Sve značajniji dolazak turista dobi od 15 do 34 godina natjeralo je vlasnike zapuštenih
stanova, poslovnih prostora i industrijskih hala da ih pretvore u riznicu mladosti, mjesto susreta, novih doživljaja. Unazad sedam godina Rijeka je postala bogatija za šest hostela.
Prostori u centru grada, bivši dječji vrtić, te stara kamionska
radionica danas su pretvoreni u 200-tinjak riječkih kreveta
za moderne putnike.
Hostel Dharma
Hostel Dharma
Hostel Dharma sinonim je za holizam - život posvećen zdravlju, prevenciji, odmaku od stresa i održivom razvoju. Holistička oaza svoja je vrata otvorila u starim kamionskim garažama napuštene tvornice na istočnom ulazu u Rijeku. Osim
48 ručno izrađenih kreveta, Dharma uz standardnu hostelsku ponudu za svoje goste organizira jutarnju jogu, anti-stres
tehnike, meditaciju. Ono što je zanimljivo je da hostel nudi
isključivo vegeterijansku kuhinju, a alkohol i cigarete nisu
dobrodošle u zeleni Dharmin kutak.
Hostel Kosy
Italija ima Pisu, a Rijeka Kosy. Hostel smješten u staroj
gradskoj jezgri tik uz „kosi toranj“ tj. zvonik crkve Marijina
Uznesenja koji datira još iz 13. stoljeća. Turistička atrakcija tako se nalazi na svega desetak sekundi hoda od Hostela
Kosy koji odiše ugodnom „cosy“ atmosferom. Dio soba živi
s pogledom na Korzo, gradsku žilu kucavicu, dok se nešto
dalje pruža prekrasan pogled na nekoć moćno trgovačko
sjecište - Mrtvi kanal.
Hostelling – the fastest growing tourism sector in the
world. On the large world tourism tree Rijeka is rapidly
developing its own branch. The timid beginnings of hostelling began in 2006 when the first Omladinski hostel
was opened in one of the most beautiful parts in the town,
Pećine. The growing number of tourist arrivals aged between 15 and 35 years compelled owners of abandoned
apartments, commercial properties and industrial halls
to turn them into a youth treasury, a place of meeting
and new experiences. In the past seven years Rijeka has
become richer by six hostels. Locations in the city centre,
a former kindergarten as well as an old truck workshop
have been turned into some 200 beds for modern travellers to Rijeka.
Hostel Dharma
Hostel Kosy
22-25_HOSTELI.indd 23
The Hostel Dharma is a synonym for holism – a life dedicated to health, prevention, removal of stress and sustainable
7/30/13 8:52:57 PM
24
Hostel Kosy
Hostel Rijeka
U samom središtu grada u najsporijoj riječkoj ulici, Korzu, nalazi se Rijeka. Hostel koji u svojih osam soba nudi 30
kreveta najnoviji je riječki turistički objekt koji je zbog svog
spremišta za bicikle idelan za sve goste koji u grad dođu na
dva kotača bez motora pa je Hostel Rijeka već zaokružen na
brojnim biciklističkim kartama. Na adresi Korzo 32 u samom središtu grada biciklisti, ali i turisti koji dođu u grad
ostalim prijevoznim sredstvima mogu se odmoriti u sobama sa dva, sve do soba sa deset kreveta. Naravno u moderno
uređenom hostelu svima je na raspolaganju i nezaobilazna
prostorija za druženja.
Omladinski hostel Pećine
Prvi, ali po svemu sudeći ne i posljednji. Sama zgrada
Omladinskog hostela Pećine, izgrađena potkraj 19. stoljeća darovana je lokalnim vlastima na korištenje. Jedini uvjet bio je koristiti zdanje za potrebe djece i mladih.
I stvarno, 108 godina kasnije, u nekadašnjem dječjem
development. The holistic oasis opened its doors in an old
truck garage of an abandoned factory on eastern entrance in
Rijeka. Besides the 48 handmade beds and standard hostel
offer, Dharma organises morning yoga classes, anti-stress
techniques and meditation for its guests. One interesting
fact is that the hostel offers exclusively vegetarian cuisine,
whilst alcohol and cigarettes are not welcomed in Dharma's
green corner.
Hostel Kosy
Whilst Italy has Pisa, Rijeka has Kosy. A hostel located in the
old city centre close to the “leaning tower”, the bell tower
of the Church of the Assumption of Mary which dates back
to 13th century. This tourist attraction is located only ten
seconds away on foot from the Hostel Kosy which exudes a
cosy atmosphere. One section of the rooms has the view over
Korzo, the heart of the city, whilst the beautiful view also extends further ahead to the once powerful commercial crossing point – Mrtvi kanal (channel).
Omladinski hostel Pećine
22-25_HOSTELI.indd 24
7/30/13 8:53:06 PM
25
Više informacija možete dobiti na:
You can get more informations on:
www.dharmahostels.com
www.hostelkosy.com
www.hfhs.hr
www.hostelcarnevale.com
www.hostel-aston.com
www.hostel-ana.com/rijeka
http://www.hostelrijeka.com/
vrtiću niknuo je prvi riječki hostel. Sa 60 kreveta predstavlja kvarnersku perjanicu Hrvatskog ferijalnog i hostelskog saveza.
Hosteli Carnevale, Ana, Aston
Koja je poveznica autobusnog kolodvora, Korza i riječke
tržnice? Naravno hosteli. Aston, Carnevale i Ana sa svojih
70-tak kreveta zadovoljit će svakog putnika koji svoje vrijeme odluči provesti u gradu koji teče. Osjetiti čar tržnice
uz Anu, pogledati Međunarodni Riječki karneval iz Carnevalea ili doživjeti spoj različitosti autobusnog kolodvora uz
Aston nikoga neće ostaviti ravnodušnim.
Hostel Carnevale
Hostel Aston
Rijeka Hostel
The Rijeka Hostel is situated in the very city centre, in the
slowest of Rijeka’s streets, Korzo. The hostel which is the newest Rijeka tourist facility offers 30 beds in eight rooms, and is
ideal for those who decide to come to town on two wheels,
thanks to its bike storage, so the Rijeka Hostel is already circled on numerous cycling maps. At the address of Korzo 32 it
is right in the city centre for cyclists as well as for those tourists who arrive in town by other means of transport who can
take a rest in rooms with two all the way up to rooms with ten
beds. Guests of the contemporarily laid out hostel also have
at their disposal an unmissable socialising area.
Omladinski hostel Pećine
The first but not the last. The very building of the Omladinski
hostel Pećine was built at the end of 19th century and was donated to the local authorities to use. The only condition was
to use the building for needs of children and young people.
Indeed, 108 years later, in the past kindergarten was opened
Rijeka’s first hostel. With its 60 beds it represents the Kvarner flagship of Croatian Youth Hostel Association.
Carnevale, Ana, Aston hostels
What is the link between the bus station, Korzo and Rijeka’s
marketplace? Hostels, of course. Aston, Carnevale and Ana
will, with their 70 beds, satisfy every traveller that decides to
spend its time in the “flowing” city (rijeka in Croatian means
river). Feeling the magic of the marketplace at Ana, seeing
the International Rijeka Carnival from Carnevale or experiencing the joining of diversities at the bus station from Aston
will leave no one indifferent.
22-25_HOSTELI.indd 25
7/30/13 8:53:10 PM
26
Novi grad / New city
Piše / Written by: Lidija Šušak Fotografije / Photos: Arhivska graa PPMHP / Archive material MHMCL
Mrtvi kanal
Mrtvi Kanal (Dead Channel)
Sasvim suprotno imenu koje
mu je nadjenuto, duž Mrtvog
kanala dogaa se život
Contrary to its name, along
the Mrtvi kanal (the Dead
Channel) life does takes place
Mrtvi kanal, nekadašnje staro korito Rječine, a danas lučica
za barke, za Riječane je oduvijek imao važnu povijesnu ulogu. Najpoznatija je ona da je Mrtvi kanal bio središnja točka
neslavne povijesne epizode razdvajanja grada na dva dijela,
Rijeku koja je pripadala Kraljevini Italiji i Sušak koji je bio
dio Kraljevine SHS.
Nekadašnje riječno korito
Mrtvi kanal u stvari je staro prirodno korito Rječine, no ime
Mrtvi kanal pojavljuje se tek u 19. stoljeću otkad se Rječina
račva na novo i staro korito. Prvobitna riječka luka nalazila
26-31_MRTVI KANAL.indd 26
The Mrtvi kanal channel, a former riverbed of the Rječina,
today’s small port for boats, has always had a very important
historical role for Rijeka’s inhabitants. The most famous role
is that is was the central point of the inglorious historical episode of separating the city in two parts, Rijeka which belonged
to the Kingdom of Italy and Sušak which was the part of the
Kingdom of Serbs, Croatians and Slovenes.
Former riverbed
The Mrtvi kanal channel is actually the old natural Rječina riverbed, but the name Mrtvi kanal appeared only in 19th century
7/30/13 9:08:05 PM
27
Fiumara, 1912.
26-31_MRTVI KANAL.indd 27
7/30/13 9:08:08 PM
28
Na Fiumari se nalazio niz dućana,
kao nadaleko poznata drogerija,
prodavaonica šešira. Nalazile su se tu
i dizalica za popravak barki iz 19. stoljeća,
kao i kamene i željezne bitve za privez
brodova na kojima su raznim jezicima
ispisani nazivi proizvođača i godina
proizvodnje, ovisno o tome koja ih je
država postavljala.
There were a series of shops on
Fiumara, as well as very famous
drugstore and hat shop. Here was also
located a crane used for the reparation
of boats from 19th century as well as
stone and iron bollards used for berthing
on which were, in various languages,
written the names of the producers and
year of production, depending on
which country installed them.
se upravo na prostoru Mrtvog kanala, od današnjeg Jelačićevog trga do Školjića. Česte poplave i problemi s nabujalom Rječinom doveli su do potrebe za skretanjem njezina
toka. Poslije jedne velike poplave koja je poplavila gotovo
cijelo Korzo odlučeno je da se Rječina regulira, odnosno da
when the Rječina branched out to the new and old bed. The
first river port was located exactly on the area of Mrtvi kanal
channel, from today’s Jelačić Square to Školjić. Common
floods and problems with the high water levels of the Rječina
brought the need of diverting its flow. After a big flood when
water covered almost the whole of Korzo, it was decided that
the Rječina should be regulated, that is, to dig out a new riverbed. With large investments, this channel was excavated in
1855 by the direct intervention of the Emperor Franz Joseph
himself. The new riverbed turned the Rječina right to the sea
and the sea water was let into the old bed that then became the
Mrtvi kanal channel. It was then that today’s area of Delta appeared. Between the Mrtvi kanal channel and the new Rječina
riverbed, a triangle-like piece of land remained which, due to
the similarity with the Greek letter, took the name Delta.
Dock and shop
With years passing by, the Mrtvi kanal channel became an
auxiliary dock for smaller boats that were coming from the
Kvarner islands and from Dalmatia. Boats from the Kvarner islands and from the coast brought various goods for sale
and further transport whilst, on the other hand, these same
boats were loaded with goods brought by animal-drawn
vehicles from the Kvarner’s hinterland and transported
them to the islands and coastal towns. It was famous for, although not always legal, the trade of salt for flour, fish, olive
oil, wine and tools, leather products, fabrics and suchlike.
Throughout history, the area of Fiumara where can be today
found the Mrtvi kanal channel, was the centre of a number of
Mrtvi kanal Fiume Canale de la Fiumara, 1920.
26-31_MRTVI KANAL.indd 28
7/30/13 9:08:14 PM
29
Canale de la Fiumara,
poč. 20. st.
se iskopa novo korito. Taj je kanal uz velika ulaganja iskopan 1855. godine direktnom intervencijom samog cara Franje Josipa. Novo korito odvelo je Rječinu pravo u more, a u
staro je korito puštena morska voda i od tada ono postaje
Mrtvi kanal. Tad je nastalo i današnje područje Delte. Između Mrtvog kanala i novog korita Rječine ostao je teren trokutastog oblika koji je zbog sličnosti s grčkim slovom dobio
naziv Delta.
Pristanište i trgovina
S godinama Mrtvi kanal postaje pomoćno pristanište za
manje brodove koji su dolazili s kvarnerskih otoka i iz Dalmacije. S Kvarnerskih otoka i primorja u Mrtvi kanal su
brodice dovozile razna dobra za prodaju ili daljnji transport, a s druge strane te su iste brodice ukrcavale dobra
za otoke i primorje, koja su zaprežnim vozilima dovožena
iz kopnenih dijelova Kvarnera. Poznata je bila, ne uvijek
legalna, razmjena soli za brašno, ponuda ribe, maslinovog
ulja, vina i razmjena za alate, proizvode od kože, tkanine i
slično.
Kroz prošlost je područje Fiumare na kojem se danas nalazi
Mrtvi kanal bilo centar brojnih povijesno-političkih zbivanja. Mrtvi kanal je imao i funkciju administrativne granice između Corpus separatuma tj. Rijeke i Banske Hrvatske
odnosno Bakarskog municipija, a kasnije Sušaka. Nekad se
na tom području nalazila i nekadašnja Bazarigova fontana
iz koje su se brodovi opskrbljivali vodom. Fontana - perilo
bila je smještena pokraj današnje autobusne stanice, no
uklonjena je 1924.godine nakon pripojenja Rijeke Italiji,
26-31_MRTVI KANAL.indd 29
historical and political events. The Mrtvi kanal channel also
had the function as the administrative border between Corpus
separatum, that is, between Rijeka and Banate of Croatia, and
between the municipality of Bakar and later Sušak. On that
area was once located the Bazarig fountain from which boats
were supplied with water. The Fontana – washing point was
located by today’s bus station, but it was removed in 1924 after
Rijeka was annexed to Italy and the border wall between Yugoslavia and Italy was built there. The Mrtvi kanal channel, when
it fell into hands of Yugoslavia, became a part of the Port of
S godinama Mrtvi kanal postaje pomoćno
pristanište za manje brodove koji su dolazili
s kvarnerskih otoka i iz Dalmacije...poznata
je bila, ne uvijek legalna, razmjena soli za
brašno, ponuda ribe, maslinovog ulja, vina
i razmjena za alate, proizvode od kože,
tkanina i slično.
With years passing by, the Mrtvi kanal
channel became an auxiliary dock for
smaller boats that were coming from the
Kvarner islands and from Dalmatia...
it was famous for, although not always
legal, the trade of salt for flour, fish, olive
oil, wine and tools, leather products,
fabrics and suchlike.
7/30/13 9:08:20 PM
30
radi izgradnje graničnog zida između Jugoslavije i Italije.
Mrtvi kanal, pripavši Jugoslaviji, postaje dio Sušačke luke
u koji su znali pristajati i veliki putnički brodovi. Na Fiumari se nalazio niz dućana, kao nadaleko poznata drogerija,
prodavaonica šešira. Nalazile su se tu i dizalica za popravak
barki iz 19. stoljeća, kao i kamene i željezne bitve za privez
brodova na kojima su raznim jezicima ispisani nazivi proizvođača i godina proizvodnje, ovisno o tome koja ih je država postavljala.
Nakon oslobođenja 1945., ruši se granični zid na Fiumari.
Mrtvi kanal postepeno gubi lučku funkciju i postaje sportska lučica. Povijesno će ostati upamćeno da je to područje
vjekovima bilo granica, općinska, pokrajinska, državna... I
danas ima funkciju granice, ali samo između dva gradska
mjesna odbora Školjić i Centar - Sušak.
Uz Mrtvi kanal vežu se i brojna velika imena i događaji iz
povijesti, od kojih je dio obilježen spomenicima. Na tom se
mjestu Riječanima obratio papa Ivan Pavao II, tu je održan
i na kamenoj ploči trajno sačuvan poznati Titov govor o ujedinjenju Rijeke nakon talijanske okupacije i spomenik oslobođenju Rijeke. U novijoj povijesti pamtimo da su upravo s
Delte riječki dragovoljci odlazili na bojišta u Domovinskom
ratu, zbog čega je baš na Mrtvom kanalu i podignut Most hrvatskih branitelja.
Sušak in which large passenger boats even used to dock. There
were a series of shops on Fiumara, as well as very famous drugstore and hat shop. Here was also located a crane used for the
reparation of boats from 19th century as well as stone and iron
bollards used for berthing on which were, in various languages, written the names of the producers and year of production,
depending on which country installed them.
After liberation in 1945, the border wall on Fiumara was destroyed. The Mrtvi kanal channel gradually lost the function
of a port and became a small sport port. This area will historically be remembered as the border of a municipality, a region,
a country… Even today it is considered a border, but only between two local committees – Školjić and Centre—Sušak.
A number of great names and events from history are connected to the Mrtvi kanal channel. One part of them is
marked by monuments. On this place Pope John Paul II
spoke to Rijeka’s inhabitants, Tito's famous speech about
Rijeka’s unification after Italian occupation took place
and was permanently saved on a stone plaque as well as
the monument for Rijeka’s liberation. In the more recent
past we remember soldiers who left for the battlefields and
fought in the Croatian War for Independence right from
Delta due to which the Croatian Defenders Bridge has been
built across the Mrtvi kanal channel.
Fiumare oživjele Mrtvi kanal
Fiumare revived Mrtvi Kanal Channel
Od prošle godine u Rijeci se održava Festival mora i
pomorske tradicije - Fiumare. Manifestacija u retro
stilu smještena je na Mrtvom kanalu i na području
Verdieve ulice. Fiumare nas vraćaju 100 godina u
prošlost , u doba kada je upravo prostor uz Mrtvi
kanal bio mjesto svakodnevnog intenzivnog trgovačkog prometa. I ove godine u lipnju na Festivalu
demonstrirali su se tradicijski zanati kao i ribarske
i pomorske vještine, prikazivali filmovi o povijesti
Rijeke, te organizirano razgledavale znamenitosti
područja Mrtvog kanala.
The festival of sea and maritime tradition entitled
Fiumare has taken place in Rijeka since 2012. The
retro event is located on the Mrtvi kanal channel as
well as in Verdi Street. Fiumare takes us 100 years
back into the past, to the period when the area by the
Mrtvi kanal channel was the place of intense trade
everyday. And this year too, in June, at the Festival of
traditional crafts there were fishermen and seamen’s
skills demonstrated, as well as films shown about
Rijeka’s history and sightseeing of the monuments
around Mrtvi kanal channel had been organised.
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31
La Fiumara, 1907.
Fotografije / Photos: Arhivska graa Pomorskog i povijesnog muzeja Hrvatskog primorja Rijeka / Archive material of the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral Rijeka
26-31_MRTVI KANAL.indd 31
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32
Novi grad / New city
Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mami Pandža
Rijeka je istaknula
kandidaturu
za europsku
prijestolnicu
kulture 2020
Rijeka is a
candidate for the
European Capital
of Culture 2020
Capital
of Culture
32-35_EU KULTURA.indd 32
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33
Rijeka je prvi od hrvatskih gradova koji se u travnju ove godine kandidirao za dobivanje prestižnog naziva Europske
prijestolnice kulture 2020. godine. Upravo je kombinacija
raznolikosti i multikulturalnosti koja se osjeća u svakom
kutku grada, ogleda u njegovim stanovnicima i koju prepoznaje svaki putnik namjernik, najveći riječki adut. Riječka
burna povijest, njezin položaj na samom rubu svih država
kojima je tijekom stoljeća pripadala, ali i činjenica da je bila
jedno od središta nekadašnje industrijalizacije, kazao je
riječki gradonačelnik Vojko Obersnel u razgovoru za Welcome to Rijeka, izmiješali su nacije i kulture koje žive u
toleranciji i međusobnom uvažavanju. „Upravo ta tolerancija i multikulturalnost su ono čemu teži Europa i mislim
da je to jedna od glavnih prednosti Rijeke. Nadalje, Rijeka
se posljednjih godina značajno transformirala. Sveučilište
prolazi kroz možda najveću transformaciju dosad i postaje
moderno Sveučilište koje omogućuje transfer tehnologija u
novu industriju dok se objekti bogate industrijske baštine
prenamjenjuju za nove sadržaje i nove korisnike."
Industrijska baština u službi kulture
Tako se u bivši industrijski kompleks tvornice Rikard Benčić
planira smjestiti Muzej grada, Muzej moderne i suvremene
umjetnosti i knjižnica čime će se industrijska baština zaštititi i obnoviti na najbolji mogući način, u korist razvoja kulture. Koncept nije nov i poznat je europskim gradovima, no za
Rijeku je izuzetno važan jer poručuje da smo spremni na posve moderan način valorizirati industrijsku baštinu. Prema
riječima gradonačelnika Obersnela, aduti Rijeke su i brojne
manifestacije, aktivna institucionalna kultura, snažna nezavisna scena i tisuće studenata zainteresiranih i spremnih
participirati u kulturnom životu Rijeke kroz produkciju i
konzumaciju kulturnih sadržaja. Jedan od uvjeta za isticanje
kandidature Rijeke za Europsku prijestolnicu kulture bio je
donošenje kulturne strategije grada koju je Rijeka donijela za razdoblje od 2013. – 2020. godine, a sama kandidatura
jedna je od okosnica te Strategije. Drugih posebnih uvjeta
zapravo nema. Podsjetimo kako je ideju o uspostavi projekta i naslova „Europska prijestolnica kulture“ pokrenula prva
grčka ministrica kulture Melina Mercouri, uvjerivši tadašnje
članove Europskog parlamenta u društveni značaj umjetnosti i kulture. Tako je 1985. godine Atena s izuzetnim uspjehom postala prva Europska prijestolnica kulture, a od 2011.
godine dva grada iz zemalja članica Europske unije svake godine nose tu titulu. Cilj ovog projekta je istaknuti bogatstvo
i raznovrsnost europskih kultura, slaviti kulturne veze koje
povezuju Europljane, povezati stanovnike različitih europskih država, promovirati njihovu multikulturalnost i višejezičnost kao i uzajamno razumijevanje te potaknuti osjećaj
pripadnosti europskom građanstvu. Sve studije pokazale su
da je projekt Europske prijestolnice kulture izuzetna prilika
za urbanu obnovu, povećanje međunarodnog profila grada,
kao i poboljšanje imidža grada u očima njegovih stanovnika,
povećanje vitalnosti kulturnog života grada, međunarodne
vidljivosti grada i turističkih rezultata. Kada je cijeli projekt
pokrenut, nositelji ove titule uglavnom su bili veliki gradovi,
što nije slučaj i proteklih godina, kada se prednost daje gradovima koji doživljavaju transformaciju. Oni su sad u prednosti
32-35_EU KULTURA.indd 33
In April 2103 Rijeka became the first Croatian city nominated as a candidate to win the prestigious title of the European Capital of Culture in 2020. It is precisely the combination of diversity and multiculturalism that is felt in
every corner of the city, that is reflected in its inhabitants
and that is recognised by every chance traveller which is
Rijeka’s greatest trump card. Rijeka’s turbulent history,
its position at the very edge of all countries to which it belonged during the centuries as well as the fact that it was
one of the centres of past industrialisation with mixed nations and cultures that live in tolerance and common respect, said Rijeka’s Mayor Vojko Obersnel in his interview
for Welcome to Rijeka. “It is this tolerance and multiculturalism what Europe seeks and according to my opinion
this is one of Rijeka’s main advantages. Furthermore, in
the past years Rijeka has transformed significantly. The
University is maybe passing through the largest transformation ever becoming a modern university providing the
transfer of technologies into new industry whilst facilities
of the rich industrial heritage are turning into new facilities for new users."
Industrial heritage serving culture
Moreover, the plan is to place the City Museum, the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art and the Library in
the former industrial complex of the Rikard Benčić factory
by which industrial heritage will be protected and reconstructed in the best possible way, in favour of the development of culture. This concept is not new and is famous to
European cities, but for Rijeka it is extremely important
as it sends a message that we are ready to valorise industrial heritage in a completely modern way. According to
the words of Mayor Obersnel, Rijeka’s trump cards are the
number of events, active institutional culture, the strong
independent scene and thousands of students interested
and ready to take part in the cultural life of Rijeka through
the production and consummation of cultural activities.
One of the conditions for Rijeka's candidature for the European Capital of Culture was the creation of the city's
cultural strategy that Rijeka has adopted for the period
from 2013 until 2020, and the candidature itself is one of
the backbones of this strategy. There are actually no other
conditions. Let us remind ourselves that the idea of determining the project and title “European Capital of Culture” was initiated by the first Greek Minister of Culture,
Melina Mercouri, persuading the members of European
Parliament about the social importance of art and culture.
So in 1985 Athens became the first European Capital of
Culture with much success. However, since 2011 two cities from the European Union member countries carry the
title every year. The purpose of this project is to point out
the richness and variety of European cultures, celebrate
cultural connections that connect Europeans, connect
inhabitants of various European countries, promote their
multiculturalism and multilingualism as well as a common understanding and stimulate the sense of belonging
to the European citizenship. According to all the studies, the project of the European Capital of Culture is an
7/30/13 9:12:36 PM
34
...tolerancija i multikulturalnost su ono čemu
teži Europa a to je jedna od glavnih prednosti
Rijeke koja se posljednjih godina značajno
transformirala, moderno Sveučilište koje
omogućuje transfer tehnologija u novu industriju
dok se objekti bogate industrijske baštine
prenamjenjuju za nove sadržaje i nove korisnike...
...tolerance and multiculturalism is what Europe
seeks and this is one of Rijeka’s main advantages
which in the past years has transformed
significantly, modern university providing the
transfer of technologies into new industry whilst
facilities of the rich industrial heritage are
turning into new facilities for new users...
u odnosu na kulturno etablirane. Ono čemu se sada teži je
iskazivanje snažnog programa koji pokazuje njegovu kulturnu dimenziju. Gradovi koji su dosad ponijeli titulu Europske
prijestolnice kulture bili su vrlo različiti, kako po veličini i
značaju, tako i po temama koje su željeli istaknuti.
Perspektive
Gradonačelnik Obersnel naglašava da će već sama kandidatura Rijeke za titulu Europske prijestolnice kulture, bez obzira na njezin ishod, potaknuti razne aktivnosti i promociju
riječke multikulturalnosti.“Dakle ako Rijeka i ne postane
Europska prijestolnica kulture, angažman svih aktera kulturne scene i razvoj novih kulturnih projekata, stvorit će
32-35_EU KULTURA.indd 34
exceptional chance for urban reconstruction, the increasing of international city profiles as well as improving the
image of the cities in the eyes of its inhabitants, increasing the vitality of the cities’ cultural life, international
visibility of the cities and tourist results. When the whole
project was initiated, the bearers of the title were mainly
large cities, which has not been the case in recent years
when the advantage was given to those cities that undergo
transformation. They now have the advantage over those
that are culturally established. What they are now striving for is showing the strong programme that presents a
cultural dimension. Cities that have won the title of the
European Capital of Culture so far are very different, both
for their size and importance and for the themes which
they wanted to highlight.
Perspectives
Mayor Obersnel points out that the very candidature of
Rijeka for the title of the European Capital of Culture,
regardless of the outcome, will stimulate various activities and the promotion of Rijeka’s multiculturalism. “So,
even if Rijeka does not become the European Capital of
Culture, the work of all the people involved in the cultural
scene and the development of new cultural projects will
create new values in our city. Of course, the purpose of
the candidature is to win the title that will extend Rijeka’s
promotion throughout Europe, both in terms of culture
and tourism. In that case, Rijeka should determine its
cultural identity, strengthen its cultural scene and more
7/30/13 9:12:47 PM
35
nove vrijednosti u našem gradu. Naravno, cilj kandidature
je dobivanje titule koja će Rijeci osigurati promidžbu diljem Europe, u kulturnom, ali i turističkom smislu. Za očekivati je da, u tom slučaju, Rijeka utvrdi svoj kulturni identitet, ojača svoju kulturnu scenu i intenzivnije se poveže s
projektima i liderima europskog kulturnog kruga“, kazao
je gradonačelnik. Ministarstvo kulture Republike Hrvatske
već iduće godine raspisat će natječaj za gradove kandidate u
Hrvatskoj, a 2016. godine Europska komisija odlučit će koja
će dva hrvatska grada ponijeti tu titulu. Europska prijestolnica kulture nije pitanje visoke kulture ili kulture namijenjene određenom sloju ljudi, već one koja u svakom trenutku mora biti dostupna svima. Za to Rijeka nedvojbeno ima
potencijale. Program treba biti kreiran posebno za naslov
Europske prijestolnice kulture, pa će Grad Rijeka predložiti
program koji će propitivati kulturne, društvene i gospodarske izazove s kojima se suočava cijela Europa te koji će ukazati na doprinos kulture održivom razvoju. Osim svoje povijesti i kulturnog nasljeđa obilježenog raznim europskim
utjecajima koji su Rijeku učinili otvorenim, multikulturalnim i višejezičnim gradom, Rijeka će svoj program temeljiti
na suradnji čitavog kulturnog sektora u gradu, regiji i šire,
na naglašavanju bogatstva kulturne različitosti u Europi i
zajedničkih aspekata europskih kultura, te na poveznicama
s Europom i europskim identitetom. S obzirom da je među
gradovima koji su do sada imali ovu titulu bilo i onih koji se
ne ubrajaju u „europski vrh“, a ipak su po mnogočemu posebni i drugačiji i Rijeka nedvojbeno ima velike šanse u tom
natjecanju, najviše zbog toga što je grad s dušom i stavom.
32-35_EU KULTURA.indd 35
intensively connect with the projects and leaders of the
European cultural circle”, said the Mayor. By next year, the
Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Croatia will publish
a tender for candidate cities in Croatia, whilst in 2016 the
European Commission will decide which two Croatian
cities will take the title of candidates. The European Capital of Culture is not a question of high culture or culture
dedicated to determined social classes, but a question of
the culture that should be available in every moment to
everyone. Rijeka certainly has potential for that. For winning the title of the European Capital of Culture, a programme should be especially created so the City of Rijeka
will propose the programme that will question cultural,
social and economic challenges that the whole of Europe
has been facing. These programmes will also indicate the
contribution of culture to sustainable development. Besides its history and cultural heritage marked with various
European influences that made Rijeka an open, multicultural and multilingual city, Rijeka will base its programme
on the collaboration of the whole cultural sector in the
city, the region and further, on pointing out the richness of
the cultural diversity in Europe and the common aspects
of European cultures as well as on the links with Europe
and European identity. Given that among the cities that
have born this title were also those that are not listed in
the “European top”, but are however special and different
for many aspects, Rijeka has undoubtedly great chances of
winning this competition, mostly for being a city with soul
and attitude.
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36
Novi grad / New city
Piše / Written by: Velid eki Fotografije / Photos: Putokazi
Na hrvatskoj
pop-glazbenoj
sceni gotovo da
nema skupnih
izvoaa koji se
(us)trajnošu
mogu usporediti
s Putokazima
There is almost
no group on
the Croatian
pop music
scene that can
be compared
with Putokazi’s
persistence and
durability
Music, beautiful as Putokazi
36-38_PUTOKAZI.indd 36
7/30/13 11:23:12 PM
37
Budete li ovih dana začuli melodiju skladbe Gost, dok opušteno uživate uz šalicu kave na nekoj od riječkih terasa, a
uho vam lagano draška program ove ili one lokalne radiopostaje, znajte kako ste se upravo susreli s još jednim riječkim zaštitnim znakom. Ovaj put, glazbenim. Već pri prvom slušanju, radijski singl Gost govori kako je skrojen od
zvučne tkanine za sladokusce. To je rasni primjerak elektro
popa neodoljiva, kotrljajućeg ritma i melodije koju već pri
prvom slušanju ne možemo izbaciti iz uha, elektro popa što
vuče za rukav glazbenim kvalitetama zbog kojih smo lako
pristali biti šarmirani gosti u glazbenoj priči s etiketom njenih izvođača.
Točnije, izvođačica. Njihovo ime? Putokazi.
Faktografija kaže – ako je itko gost na hrvatskoj pop glazbenoj sceni, onda to Putokazi nisu. Riječka ženska vokalna
skupina Putokazi osnovana je 22. veljače 1984., što znači da
iza sebe ima dojmljivih 29 godina kontinuiranog rada. Ili,
fanovima numerologije još bolje – da je upravo zagazila u
tridesetu. Ipak, tko članice Putokaza vidi barem jednom,
te im godine nipošto ne bi dao. U Putokazima pjeva i pleše
osam djevojaka, trenutačno studentica, čiji prosjek „kvari“ tek jedna srednjoškolka, plijeneći na sceni pozornost i
uha i oka. O uhu, tj. zvuku već smo ponešto rekli poneseni
skladbom Gost, a za drugo dovoljno je kazati kako se temelji
na plesnoj koreografiji koja svaki njihov nastup pretvara u
mali scenski doživljaj.
If you hear the melody of the composition Gost (Guest) these
days whilst relaxing and enjoying your cup of coffee on one of
the Rijeka’s terraces and your ear listens in the background the
programme of this or that local radio station, you should know
that you have just experienced another of Rijeka’s trademark.
This time it is a musical trademark. By the first time you hear
it, the radio single Gost (Guest) tells you it was tailored out of
the sound material for all connoisseurs of music. It is a purebred
sample of electro pop with an irresistible and rolling rhythm
and melody that, when heard for the first time, cannot get out of
your ears, electro pop that pulls your sleeve by its musical quality because of which you easily give in to be a charmed guest in a
musical story carrying the label of its performers.
Na hrvatskoj pop-glazbenoj sceni gotovo da nema skupnih
izvođača koji se (us)trajnošću mogu usporediti s Putokazima. Davne 1984. Putokaze je osnovala Miranda Đaković
i od prvog je koraka glazbena, organizacijska i svaka druga
duša kolektiva, ostajući do danas alfa i omega operacije Putokazi. Tri desetljeća djelovanja obilježena su evolucijom.
Putokazi su u prvih 19 godina djelovanja bili muško-ženski
zbor, s vremenom smanjuju broj glasova, pa od 2003. postaju ženskom vokalnom skupinom. Pod zastavom Putokaza izmijenilo se deset pjevačkih generacija, s njima gotovo
400 pjevačica i pjevača, što znači da je na djelu prava glazbena škola. Evolucija je izraz koja dobro opisuje i glazbene
More precisely, female performers. Their name? Putokazi.
According to the facts – if there is a guest on the Croatian pop
music scene, then Putokazi are definitely not a guest. Rijeka’s female vocal group Putokazi was founded on 22nd February 1984
which means that they have 29 impressive years of continuous
work behind them. Or, for the numerology fans a even better
fact – they have just stepped into their 30th year. However, who
sees Putokazi members only once, would never give them that
age. There are eight girls singing and dancing in Putokazi who
are currently students and whose average is “spoiled” by only
one girl attending high school. When on the scene, they attract
the attention of everyone's ears and eyes. We have mentioned
something about the ear, that is about the sound in the composition of Gost and it is enough to say that their visual performance is based on dance choreography that turns every their performance into a small scenic experience.
There is almost no group on the Croatian pop music scene that
can be compared to Putokazi’s persistence and durability. In
the far off 1984 Putokazi were founded by Miranda Đaković and
from the first steps until now she remained the organisational
and every other soul of the group, remaining the alpha and
omega of the Putokazi operation. Three decades of their activity
have been marked by evolution. In the first 19 years, Putokazi
were a male and female choir and with the time passing by they
decreased number of voices in order to become female vocal
group in 2003. Ten singing generations have changed under the
Putokazi flag, almost 400 male and female singers which means
that this is a real music school. Evolution is an expression that
describes well Putokazi’s music projects that include 12 albums
and one DVD. On these albums music written by The Beatles
36-38_PUTOKAZI.indd 37
7/30/13 11:23:18 PM
38
projekte Putokaza, koje čini 12 albuma i jedan DVD. Na tim
albumima ima glazbe s potpisom Beatlesa, tema iz filmova
i mjuzikla, hrvatskih etno-tema, autorskog world musica,
trip popa, elektro popa, à capella istupa… Nit koja ih povezuje? Čvrsto "ne" uklapanju u trend glazbe za brzu potrošnju. Uvijek korak u novo, u eksperiment, makar to značilo
artistički rizik.
Putokazi su nebrojeno puta nastupali na domaćim i stranim pozornicama (Krakow, Trst, Graz, Nürnberg, Ljubljana, Faenza, Grosswarasdorf, Jalta, Berlin, Nagoya, Karlsruhe, Košice, Burgas…), bilježe i dva predstavljanja Hrvatske
na Eurosongu (pod imenima svojih frakcija, skupina Put i
ENI). Dodajmo višekratna sudjelovanja u kazališnim predstavama (npr. u Medeji i Kralju Learu na Brijunima), brojne suradnje s domaćim i stranim glazbenim imenima (s Gibonnijem, Damirom Urbanom, Kurtom Maloom, grupama
Laibach, En Face), tri diskografske nagrade Porin itd.
Koliko je to zajedničkog smijeha mladih ljudi, koliko ushićenja, dilema, trema, tuga, putovanja, anegdota, koliko
unikatnih trenutaka koji ostaju u zajedničkoj memoriji?
Odgovor je nemoguće dati.
Dok uz kavu slušate djevojačke glasove kako klize melodijom skladbe Gost, dobro je znati još sljedeće: osim ekskluzivnih, za glazbeno-scenske događaje specijalno namijenjenih prostora, Putokazi rado nastupaju i na mjestima
koja nisu za to izvorno planirana, ali uz malo truda postaju
zahvalna za druženje s publikom, uključujući goste Rijeke i
riječkog područja. Goste? Uz Gosta i ostale uspješnice Putokaza, nema toga tko se u Rijeci ne bio osjetio kao doma.
36-38_PUTOKAZI.indd 38
appear as well as themes from films and musicals, Croatian
ethno-themes, authors of world music, trip pop, electro pop, à
capella performance... the thread that connects them? A firm
music that does not fit musical trends which are easily worn out.
Always making a step into something new, always experimenting even if that involves artistic risk.
Putokazi have performed many times on national and foreign
stages (Krakow, Trieste, Graz, Nuremberg, Ljubljana, Faenza,
Grosswarasdorf, Yalta, Berlin, Nagoya, Karlsruhe, Košice, Burgas…) and they also represented Croatia twice at the Eurovision
competition (under the names of their spin-offs, the groups Put
and ENI). We should add repeated participation in theatrical
shows (for example, in Medeja and King Lear on the Brijuni
islands), a number of collaborations with national and foreign
music names (Gibonni, Damir Urban, Kurt Maloo, groups Laibach, En Face), three Porin discography awards, etc.
How many common laughs of young people, how much excitement, dilemmas, jitters, sadness, travels, adventures, how many
unique moments that stay in their collective memory? It is impossible to give an answer.
Whilst sipping coffee and listening to the girls’ voices sliding
through the melody of the composition Gost (Guest), you should
also know: besides the exclusive, music and scenic events of
specially dedicated areas, Putokazi willingly perform at places
that are not originally planned for their performance, but with
a little effort become thankful for passing time in the company
of audience, including guests from Rijeka and its surroundings.
Guests? With Gost (Guest) and other Putokazi hits, there is no
one who would not feel Rijeka as was its own home.
7/30/13 11:23:20 PM
39
Novi grad / New city
Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mami Pandža
In Rijeka a project
is being run by the
European Department
of the World Health
Organisation entitled
Healthy City, and
the Academy Health
Centre constitutes
one part of it
U Rijeci se
provodi
projekt
Europskog
odjela
Svjetske
zdravstvene
organizacije
- Zdravi
grad, a dio
ponude je i
Akademski
centar
zdravlja
Academy Health Centre
39-41_Akad centar zdravlja_Alen Ruzic.indd 39
7/30/13 11:25:27 PM
40
For fifteen years already Rijeka has been a part of a society
along with 1,200 cities from some thirty European countries
in which is being carried out the World Health Organisation’s
project entitled Healthy City the aim of which is to stimulate
and commit local government to work on the development
of health. The most advanced in that respect, such as a Rijeka, are the members of the European network of healthy
cities inside which, in collaboration with other European
cities, are carried out a number of projects the main theme
of which is health and everything that health determines. In
the city that is continuously thinking about how to increase
the quality of life for its citizens by creating the preconditions for various physical activities, the intern-cardiologist
from the Faculty of Medicine in Rijeka and Faculty of Medicine in Osijek, Ph.D Alen Ružić founded the Academy Health
Centre three years ago. In this way Ružić wanted to ensure
suitable conditions in which academic experts could work on
the promotion of health and carry out programmes that cannot be carried out inside the classic health institutions due to
their specific characteristics, but are carried out on questionable expert levels in gyms, beauty centres and similar places.
The leading idea was certainly directed towards the interdisciplinary programmes in the prevention of obesity and other
kinds of nutritional counselling, as well as towards other
areas of special interest in the promotion and development
of health that are today used besides the classical cure with
medicines. At the moment Rijeka is the only city in Croatia
that deals with this kind of approach to healing.
Expert approach to popular themes
Već petnaest godina Rijeka je dio zajednice 1.200 gradova
iz tridesetak europskih zemalja u kojima se provodi projekt Svjetske zdravstvene organizacije - Zdravi grad , čiji
je cilj potaknuti i obvezati lokalne vlasti da rade na unapređenju zdravlja. Najnapredniji u tom segmentu, poput
Rijeke, članovi su i Europske mreže zdravih gradova, unutar koje se, u suradnji s drugim europskim gradovima, provode brojni projekti čija je glavna tema zdravlje i sve ono
što zdravlje određuje. U gradu koji neprekidno promišlja
kako povećati kvalitetu života svojih sugrađana stvaranjem preduvjeta za bavljenje različitim fizičkim aktivnostima, internist– kardiolog s Medicinskog fakulteta u Rijeci i Medicinskog fakulteta u Osijeku doc. dr. sc. Alen Ružić
je prije tri godine osnovao Akademski centar zdravlja. Na
taj je način Ružić želio osigurati primjerene uvjete u kojima će akademski stručnjaci raditi na promociji zdravlja i
voditi programe koji se zbog svojih specifičnosti ne mogu
odvijati u okvirima klasičnih zdravstvenih ustanova, već
se na upitnim stručnim razinama provode u teretanama,
salonima za uljepšavanje i na sličnim mjestima. Vodeća
ideja je svakako bila usmjerena k interdisciplinarnim programima prevencije pretilosti i drugih oblika savjetovanja
o prehrani, ali i drugim područjima od posebnog interesa
za promociju i unapređenje zdravlja koja se danas koriste
osim klasičnog liječenja lijekovima. Na području Hrvatske
Rijeka je u ovom trenutku jedinstvena po pitanju ovakvog
pristupa liječenju.
39-41_Akad centar zdravlja_Alen Ruzic.indd 40
These kinds or similar centres exist in developed countries
acting alone or in a large clinical institutions, so if you start following the serious programme of treating obesity in USA or
in Italy which are the countries with the most developed concerned sector, you will be directed imprecisely to one of the
centres-clinics that is very much like our own, said Ružić. In
the Academy Health Centre are offered individual and group
programmes for losing weight within the Weight Loss School.
However, other forms of nutrition counselling are also offered:
from how to gain weight to specific states that require a special
diet such as immune diseases, food allergies and suchlike. Furthermore, complementary and proven methods such as professional acupuncture, shiatsu massage, obesity psychotherapy
using dance and movement as well as medical cosmetology
which especially points out treating the localized obesity and
skin changes by biologically active organic preparations are carried out. A number of experts work in the Centre including Prof.
Alessandra Pokrajac-Bulian Ph.D from the Faculty of Philosophy in Rijeka who is world famous with regards to the psychology of eating disorders; Dr. Alfred Božić from the Rijeka Clinical
Hospital Centre who, besides being an anaesthesiologist and intensive care doctor, has great experience in applying elements of
traditional Chinese medicine in its best professional and expert
form, primarily in expert, safe and efficient acupuncture; Prof.
Sandra Karabaić, a noted dance and movement therapist as well
as a series of other lovely people and enthusiasts who give their
contributions with regards to specific areas and indications.
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41
Stručni pristup popularnim temama
Ancient methods and modern innovations
U razvijenim zemljama postoje ovakvi ili slični centri koji
djeluju izolirano ili pri velikim kliničkim ustanovama, pa
ako u SAD-u ili Italiji kao zemljama s najrazvijenijim predmetnim segmentom krenete u ozbiljan program tretmana
pretilosti, uputit će vas upravo u jedan od centara – klinika
koji je vrlo nalik našem, kazao je Ružić. U ACZ-u se nude
individualni i grupni programi mršavljenja u sklopu Škole
mršavljenja, ali i drugi oblici prehrambenog savjetovanja
od načina kako se udebljati do specifičnih stanja koja zahtijevaju posebnu prehranu kao što su imunološke bolesti, alergije na hranu i slično. Nadalje, provode se komplementarne i provjerene metode kao što su profesionalna
akupunktura, shiatsu masaža, psihoterapija pretilosti plesom i pokretom te medicinska kozmetologija kod koje se
posebno naglašava tretiranje lokalizirane pretilosti i kožnih promjena biološki aktivnim organskim preparatima.
U Centru rade brojni stručnjaci među kojima su prof. dr.
sc. Alessandra Pokrajac-Bulian s Filozofskog fakulteta u
Rijeci koja je veliko svjetsko ime u psihologiji poremećaja
prehrane; dr. Alfred Božić iz riječkog Kliničkog bolničkog
centra koji, osim bavljenja anesteziologijom i intezivnom
medicinom, ima ogromno iskustvo u primjeni elemenata tradicionalne kineske medicine u njenom najboljem
profesionalnom i stručnom obliku, prvenstveno stručne,
sigurne i učinkovite akupunkture; prof. Sandra Karabaić
kao istaknuti terapeut plesom i pokretom te niz drugih
dragih ljudi i entuzijasta koji daju svoj obol u specifičnim
područjima i indikacijama.
Lately, there has been a growing number of Rijeka’s inhabitants
who have decided to lose weight with the help of acupuncture.
“Like other methods that we have carried out, our approach to
acupuncture is very serious and professional. Unfortunately,
in previous practices we have witnessed for years how curing
obesity using acupuncture methods has been carried out on low
levels of expertise by prescribing insane juices and similar starvation "diets". If your approach is professional, acupuncture
can be an excellent, maybe the best supplement to the expert
nutritional and therapeutic plan of losing weight. Acupuncture
therefore in some phases of weight loss makes it easier to control the feeling of hunger representing the exceptional help in
the acquisition of new, permanent habits. Besides acupuncture,
there are no suitable medicines or other means on the market
which could represent the efficient help in the beginning of the
losing weight programme”, said Ružić adding that users of services of the Centre are not only Rijeka inhabitants, but a number
of clients from throughout Croatia as well as from abroad. Experts from this Centre are currently focusing all their forces on
the survival of existing programmes, promotion of exceptional
possibilities of a new, special and very specific medicine cosmetology that is carried out simultaneously with the dietotherapy.
The team has also been working on publishing a book and finalising a toothpaste dedicated to eating control as well as a simple,
but very efficient tea which is not magical and from which no
one will lose weight without changing eating habits, but which
is the best help that modern phytotherapy knows.
Drevne metode i moderne inovacije
U posljednje vrijeme Riječani se sve češće odlučuju za mršavljenje pomoću akupunkture. „Kao i druge metode koje
provodimo, naš pristup akupunkturi je vrlo ozbiljan i stručan. Nažalost, u dosadašnjoj praksi smo godinama bili svjedoci da se liječenje pretilosti akupunkturom provodilo na
niskim stručnim razinama, uz propisivanje suludih „dijeta“
sokovima i sličnih izgladnjivanja. Ako joj se profesionalno
pristupi, akupunktura može biti izvrstan, možda najbolji
dodatak stručnom dijetoterapijskom planu mršavljenja.
Akupunktura tako u nekim fazama mršavljenja olakšava kontrolu osjećaja gladi i predstavlja iznimnu pomoć u
stjecanju novih, trajnih navika. Danas nemamo na tržištu
primjerenih lijekova ili drugih sredstava osim akupunkture
koji bi u početku programa mršavljenja predstavljali efikasnu pomoć“, kazao je Ružić dodavši da korisnici usluga ovog
Centra nisu samo Riječani, već brojni klijenti iz cijele Hrvatske, ali i inozemstva. Stručnjaci ovog Centra trenutačno
sve svoje snage usmjeravaju na opstanak postojećih programa, promociju iznimnih mogućnosti jedne nove, posebne i
vrlo specifične medicinske kozmetologije koja se provodi
uz istodobnu provedbu dijetoterapije. Radi se i na izdavanju knjige te finalizaciji paste za zube namijenjene kontroli
jedenja te jednog običnog, ali vrlo učinkovitog čaja koji ne
nudi čaroliju i od kojeg nitko neće bez promjene prehrane
smršaviti, ali koji donosi najbolju pomoć koju suvremena
fitoterapija poznaje.
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42
Novi grad / New city
Piše / Written by: Ljljana Mami Pandža Fotografije / Photos: Tea Cimaš
Republika Festival
Rijeka je od 18. do 20. srpnja ove godine bila domaćin svjetskog susreta kreativaca s područja progresivne kulture „Republika“ - novog kulturno-poduzetničkog programa koji se
održao u prostorima bivše tvornice Rikard Benčić i na brodu
„Galeb“. Ovaj je međunarodni događaj osmišljen kao kombinacija ljetne škole, konferencije i festivala na kojem se
okupljaju neki od najkreativnijih i najuzbudljivijih umova
današnjice i omogućavaju mladima iz Hrvatske, regije i svijeta da razmijene ideje i iskustva i dobiju nove inspiracije.
Cilj ovog iznimno važnog projekta je pozicionirati Rijeku
kao regionalni centar kreativnih industrija i europski festivalski centar, stvoriti alternativne edukativne platforme za
mlade kreativce i na taj način privući nove turiste u Rijeku.
Titov brod „Galeb“, u vlasništvu Grada Rijeke, za ovu je prigodu bio privezan u riječkoj luci. Na trodnevnom Festivalu
koji je podijeljen u šest cjelina tijekom kojih su se održavale
radionice, igraonice, predavanja, prezentacije, instalacije,
koncerti i zabavni sadržaji, sudjelovali su i organizatori prestižnih svjetskih festivala kao što su SHARE, koji se održava
u Beogradu i Bejrutu, A MAZE iz Berlina i Johannesburga,
PAUSE iz Melbourna, East Doc Platform i putujući festival
inovacija SeedCamp. Gosti su bili i predstavnici međunarodnih investicijskih fondova Seedcamp i Techstars te vodeći
hrvatski poduzetnici s područja novih tehnologija kao što
su Matija Kopić iz Osijeka, autor Farmeron informacijskog
sustava i Goran Duškić iz Rijeke, vlasnik aplikacije WhoAPI.
Grad Rijeka je u pripremu i realizaciju ovog projekta, kazao je
pročelnik riječkog Odjela gradske uprave za kulturu, nastojao ući s etabliranim partnerom pa je suradnja dogovorena
42-43_FESTIVAL R.indd 42
From 18th until 20th July 2013 Rijeka hosted the world meeting of
creative people from the area of progressive culture entitled “Republika” - a new cultural and entrepreneurial programme took place
in the rooms of the former Rikard Benčić factory and on the boat
“Galeb”. This international event has been created as a combination
of a summer school, conference and festival that brought together
some of the most creative and most exciting minds of present times
and provided young people from Croatia, from this region and from
the world, the chance to exchange their ideas and experiences as well
as to gain new inspirations. The purpose of this extremely important
project was to position Rijeka as a regional centre of creative industries and as a European festival centre, to create alternative education platforms for young creative people and in that way attract new
tourists in Rijeka. Tito’s boat “Galeb” owned by the City of Rijeka has
been berthed in the Port of Rijeka for this occasion. Over the three
day long Festival which was divided into six units during which
workshops, games, lectures, presentations, installations, concerts
and entertainment content took place, the organisers of the prestige world festivals such as SHARE that takes place in Belgrade and
Beirut, A MAZE from Berlin and Johannesburg, PAUSE from Melbourne, East Doc Platform and the travelling SeedCamp Festival of
innovations took part. Guests were also representatives of international investment funds Seedcamp and Techstars as well as the leading Croatian entrepreneurs from the area of new technologies such
as Matija Kopić from Osijek, the author of the Farmeron information
system and Goran Duškić from Rijeka, owner of the WhoAPI application. The City of Rijeka in the preparation and realisation of this
project has tried to enter with an established partner and therefore
a collaboration with probably most powerful partner in the region,
7/30/13 11:27:00 PM
43
s vjerovatno najjačim partnerom u regiji, Bojanom Boškovićem, osnivačem i dugogodišnjim menadžerom novosadskog
festivala Exit. Kreativne industrije među prioritetima su
europskih fondova - Creative Europe, a definitivno su tema
koju je potrebno u budućnosti razmotriti i u kulturnoj politici Grada Rijeke. Zahvaljujući mnogobrojnim kreativcima
koji su je posjetitili Rijeka je dobila priliku da se pozicionira
kao regionalni centar kreativnih industrija i europski festivalski centar te mjesto umrežavanja međunarodno priznatih
profesionalaca koji djeluju na području kreativnih industrija. Grad Rijeka u suradnji s timom Netokracije, vodećeg regionalnog magazina posvećenog tehnološkom poduzetništvu i
poslovanju, organizirala konferenciju je RockPaperStartups,
najveću ljetnu start-up konferenciju u Europi, koja okupilja
mlade poduzetnike iz Hrvatske te cijele srednje i istočne Europe. U sklopu RockPaperStartupsa, a u suradnji s vodećim
britanskim startup inkubatorom Seedcamp, održao se i Mini
Seedcamp Rijeka, natjecanje najboljih europskih start-up
projekata. U tom segmentu i Rijeka je imala što pokazati, s
obzirom da je Grad pokrenuo Startup, treći riječki inkubator,
no prvi koji potiče razvoj poduzetništva kod mladih do 29 godina kao najosjetljivije dobne skupine koja sve teže pronalazi
posao i stječe svoja prva radna iskustva. Dio programa festivala bio je sajam umjetnosti Start Art Expo koji je na jednom
mjestu okupio i povezao sve sudionike umjetničkih događanja, od galerista, kolekcionara, pravnih osoba koji ulažu
u umjetnost (banke, osiguravajuće kuće i sl.), ne samo kao
potencijalne kupce već kao osobe koje imaju dobro razvijene
profesionalne usluge prema umjetničkom svijetu.
42-43_FESTIVAL R.indd 43
Bojan Bošković, founder and long-time manager of Novi Sad's Exit
Festival had been agreed, says the head of Rijeka’s City Department
of Culture. Creative industries are within the priorities of European
funds - Creative Europe and are definitively the theme that should
be considered in the future in the cultural policy of the City of Rijeka.
Thanks to a number of creative people that visited it, Rijeka had the
chance to position itself as a regional centre of creative industries
and a European festival centre as well as the place of networking internationally recognised professionals that act in the area of creative
industries. The City of Rijeka in collaboration with the Netokracija
team, a leading regional magazine dedicated to technological entrepreneurship and business, organised a conference entitled RockPaperStartups, the largest summer start-up conference in Europe that
brought together young entrepreneurs from Croatia as well as from
the whole of central and Eastern Europe. With the RockPaperStartups and in collaboration with the leading British start-up incubator
SeedCamp, the Mini Seedcamp Rijeka also took place, a competition
of the best European start-up projects. As far as this is concerned,
Rijeka had also something to show since the City initiated Startup,
Rijeka's third incubator, as well as the first one that stimulates the
development of entrepreneurship for up to 29 year old young people
as the most sensitive age group with the growing problems of finding work and achieving their first working experience. One part of
the festival programme was the art fair entitled Start Art Expo that
brought together in one place and connected all the participants of
art events, from gallery owners, collectors, legal persons that invest
in art (banks, insurance companies and similar), not only as potential buyers but as people who have well developed professional services towards the world of art.
7/30/13 11:27:04 PM
44
Novi grad / New city
Piše / Written by: Lidija Šušak
Last resting place for pets
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7/30/13 11:44:51 PM
45
Da Rijeka ima groblje kućnih ljubimaca malo je poznato, čak
i Riječanima. O njemu se tako malo zna, iako je uz pariško i
londonsko jedno od najstarijih u Europi. Jedino groblje kućnih ljubimaca u Hrvatskoj smješteno u Lukovićima na Kozali, jedinstveni je kulturni spomenik koji svjedoči o dugoj tradiciji ljubavi i brige za životinje na ovim prostorima.
Riječani ispred svog vremena
Svjedok je da su Riječani i prije stotinu godina bili ispred
svog vremena jer su u to vrijeme pse i mačke smatrali članovima svoje obitelji i odnosili se prema njihovoj smrti s
potpunim poštovanjem. Danas, 100 godina kasnije, s time
se malo gradova u svijetu može podičiti.
Tko je sagradio groblje?
Podaci o prvim ukopima ljubimaca su izgubljeni i ne postoji točan podatak o osnivanju riječkog groblja kućnih
ljubimaca.
Ni arhiva odnosno dnevni tisak s početka prošlog stoljeća
ne spominju groblje, a ono kao takvo čak nije ni upisano
u katastar. Iako se obično ističe da je nastalo oko 1903. ili
1904. godine, to nije moguće znanstveno potkrijepiti.
Prvi očuvani pisani tragovi o ukopima potječu iz dvadesetih
i tridesetih godina 20. stoljeća, a da je groblje tada postojalo
svjedoči i nekoliko nadgrobnih spomenika iz tog vremena.
Poruke na grobnicama napisane su na hrvatskom, a manji
dio na talijanskom jeziku.
Pretpostavlja se da su groblje izgradili lovci koji su u Lukovićima pokapali svoje lovačke pse. Za groblje su vrlo brzo
Little is known about Rijeka having a pet’s cemetery, even by
Rijeka’s inhabitants. Not much is known about it, although, besides Paris and London, it is one of the oldest cemeteries in Europe. The only cemetery for pets in Croatia is located in Lukovići, on Kozala, and is a unique cultural monument that witnesses
a long tradition of love and care about animals in these areas.
Rijeka inhabitants ahead of their time
It is evidence that Rijeka’s inhabitants were a hundred years
ago ahead of their time in that even then they considered dogs
and cats members of their family and took care of their death
with complete respect. Today, 100 years later, a few towns in
the world can be proud of something like that.
Who built the cemetery?
Information about the first pet burials has been lost and no
exact data about the foundation of Rijeka’s pet cemetery exists.
No archives or daily newspapers from the beginning of 20th century mention the cemetery and as such it was not even been registered in the cadastre. Although it is usually pointed out that it
appeared around 1903 or 1904, it cannot be scientifically proved.
The first preserved written traces about burials date back to
the 1920’s and 1930’s and that a cemetery even existed then
is proved by several tombstones that date back to that period. Messages on tombs are written in the Croatian language,
whilst a small part are even in the Italian language.
It is assumed that it was constructed by hunters who buried
their hunting dogs in Lukovići. The word about the existence
of a cemetery was spread very quickly even outside Rijeka and
44-47_GROBLJE LJUBIMACA.indd 45
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46
pročulo i izvan Rijeke i države te su vlasnici kućnih ljubimaca iz cijele tadašnje države, ali i iz ostalih država poput
Njemačke i Italije u kojima nisu postojala slična groblja, za
posljednje počivalište svojih ljubimaca birali Rijeku. Nažalost nije poznato ni koliko je kućnih ljubimaca pokopano
na groblju, kao ni koje su sve životinje pokopane. Priča se
da su se nekada na groblju pokapali i konji, no to nitko ne
može potvrditi. Sudeći po očuvanim spomenicima, u novije
vrijeme na groblju pokapali su se uglavnom psi i mačke, te
nešto manje zečevi i ptice. Danas ima oko 60-tak grobnica,
a u nekima je pokopano i po nekoliko ljubimaca.
No, na žalost ljubitelja životinja, riječko groblje zadnjih
godina ima samo funkciju spomenika. Od 2004. se ukopi u
Lukovićima više ne obavljaju i to zbog novog Zakona o veterinarstvu koji ne dopušta zakapanje životinja u zemlju
zbog opasnosti da ih iskopaju druge životinje. Prema novim
propisima tijela životinja moraju biti spaljena u za to predviđenoj spalionici.
Iako se ukopi već gotovo deset godina ne održavaju, groblje
nije zapušteno. Na većini grobnica vidi se da ih vlasnici posjećuju i danas. Cvijeće je svježe, lampioni gore, grobovi su
44-47_GROBLJE LJUBIMACA.indd 46
Croatia and pet owners from the whole former state, as well
as the close states such as German and Italy that did not have
such cemetery, chose Rijeka for the resting place of their pets.
Unfortunately, it is not known how many pets are buried in
the cemetery nor is it known what animals are buried there.
According to the stories, even horses were once buried there
but no one can prove it. Judging by preserved monuments, in
the cemetery were recently buried mostly dogs and cats, and
less so rabbits and birds. There are some 60 tombs today and
in some are buried more than one pet.
However, unfortunately for animal lovers, in the past years Rijeka cemetery has only had the function as a monument. Burials at Lukovići have not been carried out since 2004 due to
the new Law on Veterinary medicine that does not allow the
burying animals in the land for the danger of other animals
excavating them. According to new regulations, animal bodies
have to be cremated in a predetermined incinerator plant.
Although the cemetery has not been active for almost ten years, it has not been abandoned. Based on the state of most of
the tombs, it can be seen that owners still visit them even today. The flowers are fresh, lantern’s flames can be seen, tombs
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47
čisti i uređeni. Jedni su kraj groba svog ljubimca posadili ružin grm, drugi su svome psu na grob stavili omiljene igračke
i figurice da mu prave društvo i na posljednjem počivalištu.
Prošetati grobljem posebno je fascinantno na blagdan Svih
Svetih kad je groblje kućnih ljubimaca veoma posjećeno i
izgleda poput bilo kojeg groblja, ukrašeno plamičcima svijeća koje gore za drage nam prijatelje.
are cleaned and looked after. Some people have planted a rose
bush by their pet’s tomb, others have placed on their dog’s
tomb his favourite toys and figures to make him company in
his resting place. A walk through the cemetery is especially
fascinating on All Saints' Day when the pet’s cemetery is visited by many people and looks just like any other cemetery,
decorated with candles burning for our beloved friends.
O groblju kućnih ljubimaca na Kozali nekada je skrbila Veterinarska stanica Rijeka, no sada to čini Grad Rijeka koji
je ujedno i vlasnik zemljišta. Gradske komunalne službe
brinu se o groblju i ono se redovito hortikulturalno održava
kao svojevrsni riječki raritet. Što će biti s grobljem u budućnosti, zasad nije poznato. Sportski kinološki Klub Rijeka još
je 2003. godine pokrenuo inicijativu da se ovaj jedinstveni
objekt proglasi kulturnim dobrom jer bi na taj način budućim naraštajima svjedočio o jednom zanimljivom dijelu
riječke povijesti.
The Rijeka Veterinary Station once took care of the pet’s cemetery on Kozala, but this is today done by the City of Rijeka which
is, at the same time, the owner of the land. The City’s communal
services take care of the cemetery which is regularly maintained
by horticulture experts as a kind of curiosity of Rijeka. It is still
not known what the future holds for the cemetery. In 2003 the
Sports Kennel Club Rijeka started an initiative to proclaim this
unique facility as a cultural asset and so in this way to testify to
one interesting part of Rijeka’s history for future generations.
Dok se čeka da se groblje zaštiti na njemu će mirno počivati
Astra, Ajka, Don, Roki, Timmy, Miško,Tina, Pikolino, Linda
i ostali ljubimci. Spomenici na kojima su ugravirane slike
i poruke njihovih vlasnika poput Zauvijek ćemo te voljeti,
Hvala ti na svemu i slične, nijemo će svjedočiti o ljubavi čovjeka prema životinji.
44-47_GROBLJE LJUBIMACA.indd 47
Whilst we are waiting for the cemetery to be protected, here
will peacefully rest Astra, Ajka, Don, Roki, Timmy, Miško,
Tina, Pikolino, Linda and other pets. The monuments of which are placed photographs and messages engraved from their
owners such as “We will love you forever, thank you for everything” along with many others which are silent witnesses of
man’s love for animals.
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48
Intervju / Interview
Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mami Pandža
Sandro Sukno
Mladi vaterpolist kojemu je Rijeka novi dom
The young water polo player who has found his new home in Rijeka
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49
Potkraj 19 stoljeća u Velikoj Britaniji je odigrana prva vaterpolska utakmica, a već 1900 godine u Parizu vaterpolo se našao na popisu olimpijskih sportova i to kao drugi
momčadski sport na olimpijadi, nakon nogometa.
The first water polo match was played in the United
Kingdom at the end of the 19th century, whilst in 1900
water polo in Paris found its place on the list of Olympic
sports, as the second team sport, just after football.
Sandro Sukno, 23-godišnji vaterpolist koji je 2012 godine u Londonu bio zadužen za čarobne poteze, rodio se u
Cavtatu, mjestu pored Dubrovnika sa nešto više od 2 000
stanovnika u kojem je najvažnija sporedna stvar na svijetu vaterpolo. Čak pet medalja sa olimpijskih igara svoj
je dom pronašlo u tom gradiću. Sandro Sukno jedan je od
vlasnika zlatne medalje, no rijetko koji sportaš na svijetu
ima tako potpunu kolekciju odličja. Gotovo da i ne postoji natjecanje,bilo reprezentativno bilo klupsko, koje nije
osvojio - neka i po nekoliko puta. Svoju je posljednju sezonu u riječkom Primorju završio sa osvojenim Kupom
Hrvatske i Jadranskom ligom te je proglašen najboljim
igračem lige. A sakupljanje trofeja počelo je već sa sedam
godina kada i nije imao previše izbora s obzirom na mjesto rođenja i obiteljsku tradiciju. Svi putevi vodili su na
plivalište.
Sandro Sukno, the 23 year old water polo player who in
2012 in London was responsible for some magical moves,
was born in Cavtat, a locality near Dubrovnik, which has
some more than 2,000 inhabitants and in which the most
important secondary thing in the world is water polo. In
this small town five Olympic medals have in fact found
their home. Sandro Sukno is one of the gold medal owners, but rare are sportsmen in the world that have such a
complete collection of medals. There is almost no competition, neither with the national team nor with the club
that he has not won – some of them even several times.
He finished the last season in the Rijeka water polo club
Primorje by winning the Croatia Cup and Adriatic League
and was proclaimed the best player of the League. He began to collect trophies when he was just seven years old as
he had not many choices due to his place of birth and family tradition. All roads led to the swimming pool.
Vaterpolo nisam mogao nikako izbjeći, otac mi je bio vaterpolist, brat. To je glavni sport u Dubrovniku i u obližnjem
Cavtatu gdje sam odrastao, plivalište mi je bilo ljetno, 20tak metara od kuće, tako da istina nisam imao puno izbora. Srećom nisam pogriješio, sve je dobro ispalo, uživam
u vaterpolu od prvog treninga. Upravo je to vaterpolsko
odrastanje u Cavtatu i Dubrovniku obilježilo moju karijeru.
Dubrovački Jug je uvijek imao jake momčadi i samim tim
igrao je s najjačim suparnicima pa sam mnogo naučio samo
gledajući te najbolje svjetske igrače, a u mlađim uzrastima
naučio sam i osvajati trofeje, bili smo najbolji, u mlađim kategorijama osvojio sam sve trofeje s Jugom, s tim da nismo
ni jednom izgubili utakmicu, tako da sam se sa porazima susreo tek u seniorskim natjecanjima.
U životu si nosio tri seniorske klupske kapice, Juga, Pro
Recca i Primorja - Dubrovnik, Genova i Rijeka.
Imam sreće u životu što sam igrao za te klubove, riječ je vrhunskim klubovima i ono što je meni bilo važno je da su svi
ti klubovi na moru. Rodio sam se na moru, volim sve vezano
uz more, gotovo sve je povezano u mom životu s morem.
Svoj najveći uspjeh u karijeri ostvario si noseći četvrtu
kapicu, onu hrvatske reprezentacije, u još jednom lučkom
gradu koji nije uz samo more-Londonu 2012. godine.
Medalja sa olimpijskih igara svakako mi je najdraža, ma i
sam dolazak na olimpijske igre je uspjeh, to mi je oduvijek
bila želja. Nastup na Olimpijadi ne mogu usporediti sa ni
48-53_Sukno INT.indd 49
I couldn’t avoid water polo, both my father and brother were
water polo players. It is the main sport in Dubrovnik and
nearby Cavtat where I grew up. My swimming pool was the
summer one, some 20 metres from my house, so it is true
that I did not have many choices. Fortunately, I wasn’t wrong,
everything turned out well and I enjoyed water polo from my
first training. The growing up in Cavtat and Dubrovnik with
water polo was what marked my career. Dubrovnik’s Jug Club
always had high quality teams and as a consequence I played
with the strongest competitors so I learned a lot just observing
those world class players. When I was young I also learned to
win trophies, we were the best, in the younger categories I won
all the trophies with Jug, we never lost a match and I faced the
defeat only when I started senior competitions.
In your life you were wearing three water polo caps those of Jug, Pro Recco and Primorje - Dubrovnik, Genoa
and Rijeka
I am lucky to be able to play for these clubs as they are the
top clubs and what was the most important for me is that all
of them are by the sea. I was born in the littoral, I love everything that is connected with the sea, almost everything in
my life has to do with the sea.
Your greatest career success was wearing the fourth cap,
that of the Croatian national team in another port town
that is not so close to the sea – London, in 2012.
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50
jednim drugim događajem. U olimpijskom selu su svi najbolji svjetski sportaši na okupu, to je posebno. Sjedneš na
ručak pogledaš lijevo sjedi Kobe Bryant, pogledaš naprijed
i Roger Federer čeka u redu za hranu. Svi čekaju u redu, svi
su tamo samo sportaši koji su došli dati sve od sebe i pobijediti. Samo to je doživljaj, biti dio svega, a još kada i imaš
sreće, jer sreća je na takvim natjecanjima potrebna, i osvojiš zlatnu medalju i slušaš svoju himnu na postolju - to je
prekrasno.
Zlatna olimpijska medalja je san svakog sportaša.
Ostvario sam svoj san i da sutra prestanem igrati otišao bih
sretan. U Londonu smo sve utakmice pobijedili. Nakon posljednje pobjede u finalu nisam bio svjestan što se događa.
Popeo sam se na postolje, pogledao oko sebe i vidio svoje
suigrače sa zlatnim olimpijskim medaljama oko vrata. Pogledao sam svoju medalju i shvatio - san mi se ostvario!
Imam zlatnu olimpijsku medalju, sve je sjelo na svoje mjesto - godine plivanja, ranog ustajanja, odricanja, rada. Sve se
u tom trenutku posložilo.
Zlatna olimijska medalja iz Londona nije prva u vašoj
obitelji, otac Goran zlatnu je vaterpolsku medalju osvojio 1984 u Los Angelesu?
I zbog toga sam bio sretan što sam osvojio medalju, jedini
smo otac i sin u Hrvatskoj koji su osvojili zlata na olimpijskim igrama. To je još jedan dodatni obiteljski uspjeh. Od
The Olympic Games Medal is undoubtedly my favourite
one but just participating in Olympics is a great success,
I always wanted it. No other event can be compared with
participating in the Olympic Games. In the Olympic Village
you meet the world’s best sportsmen and women in one
place, it is a special feeling. You go to a lunch, look to your
left and there is Kobe Bryant, you look ahead and there is
Roger Federer waiting for food. All of them are waiting in
line, all of them are just sportsmen and women who have
come to give their best and win. Just being part of that is an
experience, and if you have luck, because luck is what you
need in such competitions, and win a gold medal and listen
to your nation’s anthem on the pedestal – it is wonderful.
The gold Olympic medal is the dream of every sportsman.
I achieved my dream and even if I quit playing water polo,
I would leave happy. In London we won in all the matches.
After the last victory in the final I was not aware what was
going on. I stepped onto the pedestal, took a look around me
and saw my teammates with gold Olympic medals around
their necks. I looked at my medal and realised – my dream
had come true! I have a gold Olympic medal, everything fell
into place – all those years of swimming, getting up early,
denial, work. All fell into place in that moment.
The Olympic gold medal from London is not the first Olympic medal in your family. Your father Goran won a water polo gold medal in 1984 in Los Angeles.
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51
...Rijeka je zbilja grad po mjeri,
vrlo ugodno mjesto za život,
stalno otkrivam nešto novo o gradu,
o njegovoj povijesti, o arhitekturi,
o raznim utjecajima koji su oblikovali
grad. I sport se sve više razvija...
It was also the reason why I was so happy to win the medal.
We are the only father and son in Croatia who have won
gold medals at the Olympic Games. It is another family success. My father has always supported me, although he was
never pushing me, or pressuring me. I had my own path. My
own path and his great support. He left me to play, to choose
to enter the first team, which I did at just 16 years old.
...Rijeka is really a tailored city,
a very pleasant place to live in. I am
continuously discovering something
new about the city, about its history,
architecture, about the various influences
that have shaped the city. Even sport is
developing much more...
Between those two family medals 28 years passed. The
trainer Ratko Rudić also has medals from both the Olympics – in 1984 in Los Angeles he was the Yugoslavian
trainer whilst in 2012 in London he was the Croatian
trainer. He brought both you and your father to a gold
medal?
oca sam uvijek imao potporu, iako me nikada nije gurao,
vršio pritisak, imao sam svoj put. Svoj put i njegovu veliku
potporu. Pustio me da igram, da se sam izborim za ulazak u
prvu momčad već sa 16 godina.
Između dvije obiteljske medalje proteklo je 28 godina, a
medalje s obje olimpijade ima i trener Ratko Rudić koji je
bio trener Jugoslavije 1984 godine u Los Angelesu i Hrvatske 2012. u Londonu. Vodio je do zlata na klupi i tebe i oca?
Ratko je sto godina bio trener, legenda. S nama je u Londonu
zaključio trenersku karijeru. Bio je na 11 olimpijskih igara i
nakon Londona pitali smo ga je su li mu ovo posljednje Olimpijske igre. Odgovorio je: “Vidjet ćemo, još sam mlad”. U njemu ima još energije i gladi za pobjedama i stvarno je čudo.
Ratko has been a trainer for a hundred years, he is a legend.
He finished his career with us in London. He participated in
11 Olympic Games and we asked him after London whether these would be his last Olympic Games. He answered:
“We’ll see, I am still young”. He still has power and hunger
for victories and is really a miracle.
Successes and medals are a good compensation for all
that you missed in life because of water polo?
Water polo is physically very demanding sport, if you do
not enter the pool for a few days you are already in trouble.
It is like any other athlete who does not walk or run for a
few days. Due to the trainings and numerous competitions
I missed some child and adolescent stuff. While others were
going out I had to go training, but I accepted that. I didn’t
Uspjesi i medalje dobra su kompenzacija za sve ono što si
propustio u životu zbog vaterpola?
Vaterpolo je fizički jako zahtjevan sport, dovoljno je da nekoliko dana ne uđeš u bazen i već si u problemima. To je kao
da neki drugi sportaš nekoliko dana ne hoda ili ne trči. Baš
zbog tih treninga i brojnih natjecanja propustio sam neke
dječje i mladenačke stvari. Dok su drugi izlazili ja sam morao na treninge, no to sam tako i prihvatio. Nisam išao na
ekskurziju, nisam imao maturalnu večer. Zadnji dan škole
sam proslavio u bazenu. Smeta ti to kada si mlađi, teško
pada, no to je dio sporta. Profesionalni sport je takav, moraš
dati sve od sebe ako želiš uspjeti.
Na što si potrošio svoju prvu vaterpolsku plaću?
Na marende u školi, prva plaća mi je bila 1 600 kuna.
Idealno mjesto za odmor?
Ne sjećam se kada sam imao duže od 20 dana slobodno.
Rijeka, utisci, razmišljanja?
U Rijeci se odlično osjećam, nevjerojatno je kako je u
ovom gradu atmosfera pozitivna, to se osjeti na svakom
koraku. Ljudi su pozitivni. Restorani su dobri, a pošto
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52
...u Rijeci se odlično osjećam,
nevjerojatno je kako je u ovom gradu
atmosfera pozitivna, to se osjeti na
svakom koraku. Ljudi su pozitivni.
Restorani su dobri, a Rijeka ima i bogat
noćni život. Nemamo baš vremena za
izlaske, no Primorje je ove godine osvojilo
dva trofeja i to smo znali proslaviti...
...in Rijeka I feel great, it is amazing how
positive the atmosphere in this town is, it
can be felt at every step. People are positive.
Restaurants are good, and Rijeka also has
a rich nightlife. We do not have much time
to go out, but Primorje this year won two
trophies and we knew how to celebrate it....
živim sam i nisam baš od kuhanja sa suigračima sam
obišao gotovo sve Kvarnerske restorane, pa i neke Istarske. Odlična gastronomija, a osim restorana Rijeka ima
i bogat noćni život. Nemamo baš vremena za izlaske, no
Primorje je ove godine osvojilo dva trofeja i to smo proslavili. Rijeka je zbilja grad po mjeri, Vrlo ugodno mjesto
za život, stalno otkrivam nešto novo o gradu, o njegovoj
povijesti, o arhitekturi, o raznim utjecajima koji su oblikovali grad. I sport se sve više razvija. Vaterpolski klub
Primorje je institucija u Hrvatskoj, ima povijest i zaslužuje sjajnu budućnost.
Primorje se može pohvaliti uspjesima prošle sezone, a
Rijeka Primorjem, ali i bazenskim kompleksom na kojem igrate?
Uvijek sam volio doći na Kantridu, i kada sam igrao u Jugi
i Pro Reccu. Po meni to je jedan od najljepših kompleksa u
kojem sam igrao. Mnogi ljudi kada dođu vide samo veliki ,
glavni bazen, a ima četiri bazena, na njima ima uvijek puno
djece i to je bogatstvo Kantride na kojoj se trenira vaterpolo, plivanje, sinhro plivanje, triatlon, skokovi u vodu. Tribine su na vaterpolskim utakmicama pune, sve je čisto, novo,
otvara se krov. Stvarno jedan perfektan kompleks i drago
mi je da sam doživio da je to moj domaći bazen.
Što u vaterpolu nisi još ostvario?
Želim igrati i dalje, pobjeđivati, ne volim gubiti. Dok to postoji u meni bit ću sretan, dok u svaku utakmicu ulazim sa
željom za pobjedom bavit ću se ovim sportom. Motiv su mi i
suparnici. Volim igrat protiv dobrih igrača, što je bolji igrač sa
druge strane ja više dajem u bazenu, to probudi jedan dodatni motiv u meni. To nadmudrivanje sa najboljima. Najgore je
igrati protiv slabijih, kada osjete da su nemoćni onda krene
udaranje i igranje na snagu, a to je najgore. To ne volim jer
ovaj sport mora biti brz i lepršav da gledatelji uživaju, To je
na kraju kada se sve zbroji i oduzme i najvažnije-gledatelji.
48-53_Sukno INT.indd 52
go on trips, I had no prom. I celebrated the last day of the
school in the swimming pool. It bothers you when you're
younger, it feels hard, but that is a part of the sport. It is a
professional sport, you have to do your best if you want to
success.
What did you spend your first water polo salary on?
On meals at school, my first salary was 1,600 kuna.
Ideal place for vacation?
I don’t remember when I was free for more than 20 days.
Rijeka, your impressions, thoughts?
In Rijeka I feel great, it is amazing how positive the atmosphere in this town is, it can be felt at every step. People are
positive. Restaurants are good, and since I live alone and
am not familiar with cooking, with my teammates I have
visited almost all of Kvarner’s restaurants and even some
in Istria. Besides the excellent cuisine in the restaurants,
Rijeka also has a rich nightlife. We do not have much time
to go out, but Primorje this year won two trophies and we
knew how to celebrate it. Rijeka is really a tailored city, a
very pleasant place to live in. I am continuously discovering
something new about the city, about its history, architecture, about the various influences that have shaped the city.
Even sport is developing much more. The Primorje Water
Polo Club is an institution in Croatia, it has its history and
deserves a great future.
Primorje can boast of successes in the last season, and
Rijeka with Primorje, but also with the swimming complex in which you play?
I have always loved to come to Kantrida, even when I played
for Jug and Pro Recco. In my opinion, it is one of the nicest
complexes I have played in. Many people when they come
only see the large, main pool but there are also four swimming pools always full of children and that is Kantrida’s
wealth – here they train water polo, swimming, synchronized swimming, triathlon, water jumps. During the water
polo matches the stands are full, everything is clean and
new, and the roof opens. It is really a perfect complex and I
am glad to experience it as my local swimming pool.
What haven’t you achieved in water polo yet?
I want to continue playing, winning, I do not like to lose. As
long as it exists in me I will be happy, I will play this sport as
long as I enter into every match with the desire to win. Competitors are also my motive. I like to play against good players. The better player I have for the competitor, the more I
give in the swimming pool. It awakes an additional motive
in me. That circumvention with the best players. The worst
thing is to play against the weaker ones, when they feel that
they cannot do anything then they start hitting and using
force when playing and this is the worst. I do not like it as
this sport has to be quick and breezy so that the spectators
like it. Spectators are at the end the most important.
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7/30/13 11:54:17 PM
54
Tako je nekada bilo / Once upon a time
Piše / Written by: Adriana Stojanov
Danas je dovoljno
otii do prvog
samoposluživanja
i kupiti mlijeko,
no nekad su
svježe mlijeko
na kuni prag
donosile
vrijedne žene
Today you only
have to go to the
first self-service
supermarket
and buy milk, but
fresh milk was
once brought to
the doorstep by
diligent women
Mlikarice
Milkmaids
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55
Mnoga su gradska djeca odrastala na mlijeku s grobničkih pašnjaka, mlijeku koje su na svojim leđima donosile
vrijedne žene, mlikarice. Nekad je bilo uobičajeno na riječkim ulicama vidjeti pogrbljene siluete pritisnute teretom limenih posuda na leđima, koje su u rukama držale
mlijeko, maslo, drva… Kretale su prema gradu još noću ne
bi li pred vrata Riječana sa svježim mlijekom stigle rano
ujutro.
Many city children were raised on milk from the pastures
of Grobnik, milk that was brought on the backs of diligent milkmaids. Once it was common to see on Rijeka's
streets hunched silhouettes weighed down by the load of
tin containers on their backs in which they carried milk,
butter, logs… They travelled towards Rijeka during the
night in order to reach Rijeka inhabitants’ doorsteps and
leave fresh milk in the early morning.
Mlikarica je obično bila najmlađa ženska osoba u kući,
koja je od majke ili svekrve preuzela obavezu da brine o
blagu i održava čistoću u staji, da ujutro i uvečer pomuze
kravu ili kozu te da u rane jutarnje sate pješice krene put
Opatije ili Rijeke prodati mlijeko. Da bi mlijeko stiglo na
gospodske stolove za doručak, mlikarice su se ustajale oko
tri sata poslije ponoći, pomuzle kravu, pomiješale friško
mlijeko sa sinoćnjom mužnjom, te ga prelile u posebne
posude u kojima su mlijeko nosile u grad. I tako, svaki dan,
godinama….
A milkmaid was usually the youngest women in the house
who took the obligation from her mother or her motherin-law to take care of the domestic animals and keep the
barn clean, milking the cow or goat in the morning and
in the evening and head towards Opatija or Rijeka to sell
milk in the early morning hours on foot. In order to put
the milk on the aristocracy’s tables for breakfast, milkmaids used to wake up around 3 am, milk the cow, mix
the fresh milk with the one milked the previous evening,
pour it into special containers in which they brought it to
the city. And so on, every day, for years…
Sjećanja jedne mlikarice
Vrijeme brzo prolazi. Odnosi sa sobom mnoga sjećanja.
No jedno tako teško breme nikad se ne zaboravlja.
Mlikarica Darinka Brnja, danas vitalna 84-godišnjakinja znala je na svojim mladim leđima nositi i do 50 kilograma. Svega 9 godina imala je
Darinka kada je prvi put u ranu zoru oprtila na
svoja leđa mlijeko i odnijela ga na prodaju.
- Mama mi je bila boležljiva i jedan dan mi je rekla, mala dođi samnom da ti pokažem put koji ćeš
morati prolaziti umjesto mene. Bio je to put koji
je prolazila dugi niz godina, od Marčelja preko
Pehlina do Brajde. Tada je Rijeka bila pod
Italijom, pa je kako kaže, „putnicu“ morala
napraviti i prije 10-tog rođendana. Bilo je,
priča, jako teško, nekada su i gladne išle
na put. Kad bi ju majka pitala „Mića
je ti teško“, samo bi slegnula ramenima. Ista ju je sudbina zadesila i
kada se udala. Kao mlada nevjesta, nastavila je prodavati
mlijeko, ali ovoga puta išla je
rutom Podhum – Rijeka i tako
sve do 1965. godine.
- Bilo je teško i svakako. Opterećene i
pogrbljene pod teškim teretom i po buri i po
kiši i po hladnoći, po žarkom suncu, ali mlijeko i maslac se moralo prodati, priča nam mlikarica Darinka, te dodaje kako je bilo i lijepih
dana i uspomena - sve je to život! Družile smo
se mi mlikarice i uvijek smo išle skupa, jedna
bi drugu počekale, da ne idemo same. Domaćeg se mlijeka naša mlikarica ne odriče ni danas, šalica friškog kozjeg mlijeka svaki je dan
na njenom stolu. Kozje mlijeko, kaže, pije za
zdravlje. Dan danas ima jednu kozu o kojoj rado
brine, jer to je posao koji joj je obilježilo život.
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Memories of a milkmaid
Time passes by quickly. Carries away many memories.
But one such hard burden
is never forgotten. The
milkmaid Darinka Brnja,
today a vital 84 year old
woman used to carry on
her young back even up to
50 kilograms. She was only
9 years old when she, at
dawn, carried milk for
the first time on her
back taking it to be
sold.
- My mum was sick
and one day she told
me: “Come with me
little girl and I will
show you the way
you will have to do
it instead of me.” It
was the way she had
been passing for many
years, from Marčelji,
over Pehlin to Brajda.
Rijeka was then under Italian rule, so, she
says, she had to make
"putnica"
(meaning
passport) even before
her 10th birthday. She
says it was very hard
and that sometimes,
regardless of hunger, they had to hit
the road. When her
7/31/13 12:01:59 AM
56
U spomen minulim vremenima
Mlikarice su bile mučne majke i čuvarice doma i ognjišta,
bile su stup obitelji i sigurnost preživljavanja u najtežim godinama. Njihov je život zapisan u pričama i pjesmama naših
pisaca i pjesnika, o njima pjevaju glazbenici. Mlikaricama
u čast postavljena su i spomen-obilježja koja su te vrijedne, marljive, strpljive i nadasve hrabre žene svojim životom
i više nego zaslužile. Kao spomen na mlikarice, u riječkom
Starom gradu, nedaleko od mjesta na kojem su se sastajale za povratak kući, danas postoji Mljekarski trg na kojem
dominira skulptura mlikarice s teškim teretom na leđima,
u koraku koji će trajati vječno. Skulptura pogrbljene mlikarice Belizara Bahorića postavljena je početkom 1990-ih
godina u čast grobničkim mlikaricama.
Mlikarice su mlijeko nosile svaki dan, jer bi se inače pokvarilo. Jedino ako su krave imale manje mlijeka išle su svaki drugi
dan. Sve mlikarice, bilo da su išle u Opatiju ili Rijeku, prolazile su po 15 kilometara u jednom smjeru i to s teškim teretom
stavljenim u plašćenicu, specifičnu vrstu naprtnjače. Taj bi put
u prosjeku prošle za četiri sata, ako se tu pribroji i povratak,
hodale su i do osam sati dnevno. Još dok bi razdijelile mlijeko
po kućama, došle kući gdje ih je opet čekao posao oko blaga, u
vrtu i u kući. Šezdesetih godina mogle su ići i autobusom, ali su
uvijek pazile da prođu što jeftinije, pa su veći dio puta propješačile. Mlijeko su nosile u prosjeku 15 do 20 godina.
Mlijeko i mliječni proizvodi Tonka dobili
su ime po jednoj od najstarijih mlikarica našeg područja, noni Tonki iz
Cernika koja je nosila mlijeko
na prodaju do svoje 75-te
godine.
mother would ask her “Hey little girl, can you do it?”, she
would just shrug it off. The same thing happened to her
when she got married. As a young bride, she continued to
sell milk, but this time her route changed to Podhum –
Rijeka all the way until 1965.
- It was hard and varied. Loaded and bent under heavy
loads, when the bura wind blew and when it rained and
it was cold, when it was sunny and hot, but milk and butter had to be sold, says milkmaid Darinka and adds that
there were also nice days and memories - that was life!
Milkmaids were friends and always walked together, one
would wait for another in order to avoid walking alone.
Our milkmaid does not renounce homemade milk even
today, a cup of fresh goat’s milk is on her table everyday.
She says she drinks goat’s milk for health. She still has a
goat of which she willingly takes care today as that is the
work that marked her life.
In the memory of passed times
Milkmaids were the hard working mothers and keepers
of the home and fireplace; they were the family’s backbone and safety when hardest years had to be survived.
Their lives were written about in the stories and the poems of our writers and poets, musicians sing about them.
In their honour memorials have been erected as these
diligent, valuable, patient and rather courageous women
more than deserved in their lives. In Rijeka’s old city centre, close to the place where they met before their return
home, stands today Dairy Square in their memory. It is
dominated by the sculpture of a milkmaid with a load
on her back and with an everlasting step. The sculpture of a hunched milkmaid by Belizar Bahorić was
erected at the beginning of 1990’s in honour of Grobnik’s milkmaids.
Milkmaids brought milk everyday because otherwise the milk would go rotten. Only when cows
gave less milk they would go every second day. All
milkmaids, regardless of whether they headed
to Opatija or Rijeka, walked 15 kilometres
in one direction with a heavy load put in
plašćenica, a special kind of backpack.
They would pass this route for about
four hours and if you add the time of return, they walked for around eight hours per day.
They would distribute the milk throughout houses, then they would come home where more work
with the milk, in the garden or in the house waited
for them once more. In the 1960s they could use
the bus transport, but they were always careful
not to spend too much, so they would walk most
of the way. They carried milk for approximately 15
to 20 years.
Tonka milk and diaries were named after one of
the oldest milkmaids from this area, one grandmother named Tonka from Cernik who carried
milk for sale until she was 75 years old.
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Bilo je teško i svakako.
Opterećene i pogrbljene
pod teškim teretom
i po buri i po kiši i po
hladnoći, po žarkom
suncu, ali mlijeko i maslac
se moralo prodati,
priča nam mlikarica
Darinka, te dodaje kako
je bilo i lijepih dana i
uspomena - sve je to život!
It was hard and varied.
Loaded and bent under
heavy loads, when the
bura wind blew and when
it rained and it was cold,
when it was sunny and
hot, but milk and butter
had to be sold, says
milkmaid Darinka
and adds that there
were also nice days and
memories - that was life!
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Sat vremena od Rijeke / Just an hour from Rijeka
Piše / Written by: Larry Ambrozich
Ako ste ljubitelj aktivnog odmora, okolica
Rijeke nudi brojne biciklistike staze.
Planine, primorje, otoci...birajte!
If you are an active holiday enthusiast,
Rijeka’s surroundings offer a number
of cycling trails. Mountains, coast,
islands...it’s up to you!
Rijekom okolicom
na dva kotaa
Sightseeing Rijeka's surroundings on two wheels
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Od njemačkog baruna Karla von Draisa (prvi vozač bicikle
1817.) do današnjih modernih avanturista ništa se, barem
kada je u pitanju ljubav prema dva kotača, nije promijenilo. Svaki peti stanovnik danas vozi bicikl. Od onih početnih
drvenih do današnjih karbonskih, on nudi i pruža samo
jedno, slobodu i užitak. Shvatili su to i oni koji se brinu o
kvarnerskom turizmu. Tisuće kilometara označenih staza
provest će vas nekim od najzanimljivijih kulturnih spomenika. Mirisne staze Lošinja, brdoviti putovi Učke ili prirodne raznolikosti bogatih kutaka Gorskog Kotara pa sve do
zanimljivoga Riječkog prstena, samo su dio onoga što se
zaljubljenicima u bicikliranje nudi.
Riječko područje
Rječina – nepresušni izvor vode koji već stotinama godina
napaja žedna usta Primoraca. Rijeka koja je nekoć razdvajala (za vrijeme 2. Svjetskog rata nametnuta kao granica
između hrvatskog Sušaka i talijanske Rijeke), danas opet
spaja, ali ovoga puta ljubitelje brdskog biciklizma. Polazišna točka 70-tak kilometara duge rute nalazi se u Klani, 20tak kilometara sjeverozapadno od Rijeke. Teška, crna staza
preko jedinstvenog krajolika Rječine, na svojem 40 kilometru vodi do 1120 metara visoke planinske ljepotice Platka s
kojeg puca pogled na Kvarner koji se teško zaboravlja. Povratak vodi preko Grobničkog polja na kojemu je, kako kaže
legenda, vođena poznata bitka u kojoj su hrvatske snage
From the German Baron Karl von Drais (first bike rider in
1817) until today’s modern adventurers nothing, at least as far
as love for two wheels is concerned, has changed. Every fifth
inhabitant today rides a bike. From the first wooden bikes to
today’s carbon made, it simply offers freedom and pleasure.
Those in charge of Kvarner’s tourism have also realised this.
Thousands of kilometres of marked trails will take you through
some of the most interesting cultural monuments. Fragrant
Lošinj trails, highland Učka paths or natural diversities of the
rich nooks of Gorski Kotar up to the interesting ring of Rijeka
are just one part of the offer for lovers of cycling.
Area of Rijeka
The Rječina River – the inexhaustible source of water that has
been providing thirsty coastal people with water for hundreds of
years. Rijeka that was once separated (during the Second World
War it was imposed as the frontier between Croatian Sušak and
Italian Fiume), today is connected again. Only this time it brings
together mountain bike enthusiasts. The starting point of the
some 70 kilometres long route is located in Klana, some 20 kilometres north-west from Rijeka. A hard, dark trail that passes
through the unique landscape of the Rječina River leads, on its
40th kilometre, to the 1,120 metres high mountain beauty of
Platak from which a breathtaking and unforgettable view over
Kvarner is spread. The return way passes through the Grobnik
field on which, according to the legend, a famous battle when the
Croatian army defeated Tatars took place. Until the last, 72nd
kilometre of the route which, in its last phase, offers a number of
sources of fresh water which will leave no one indifferent.
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porazile tatarsku vojsku. Do posljednjeg, 72. kilometra rute
koja na svojim posljednjim kilometrima nudi mnoštvo izvora pitke vode, vožnja nikoga neće ostaviti ravnodušnim.
Opatijska rivijera
Opatija, prva dama hrvatskog turizma, nameće se kao vodeća biciklistička ruta zapadnog Kvarnera. Brojne mogućnosti
vjerojatno će svakog biciklista ostaviti u nedoumici od kuda
krenuti. Nezaobilazna ruta svakako je obilazak liburnijskih
gradova (Kastav, Matulji, Lovran, Mošćenička Draga, Brseč)
koji će kroz 120 minuta vožnje ispričati povijest poznatih
pomoraca Liburna. Kao gromobran se nad Opatijom nadvila moćna planina Učka. Sa svojih 8 staza ukupne duljine 180
kilometara, uz naizmjeničnu vožnju po makadamu i asfaltu,
nudi kao na dlanu cijeli Kvarner, primorske gradiće, otok
Cres, ćićarijske visoravni. Planinski zrak obogaćen mirisima
mnogobrojnih biljnih vrsta mamit će na ponovni susret.
Crikvenička i Vinodolska rivijera
Crikvenica, poznato mjesto lječilišnog turizma, sa svojom
snažnom morskom klimom već stoljećima liječi i hrani
ljudsko tijelo. Uz susjedni Novi Vinodolski, kolijevku hrvatskog običajnog prava (1288. u frankopanskom Kaštelu
napisan je Vinodolski zakonik) Crikveničko-Vinodolska
rivijera nudi povratak u prošlost. Odmak od turističke vožnje uz more vodi ka zahtjevnom putu zaleđem Crikvenice
kao i obilazak frankopanskih kaštela koji su zahvaljujući
Opatija Riviera
Opatija, the first lady of Croatian tourism presents itself
as the leading cycling route on the western Kvarner. A
number of possibilities will probably leave every cyclist
doubtful not knowing where to start. The unavoidable
route is certainly the visit to Liburnia towns (Kastav, Matulji, Lovran, Mošćenička Draga, Brseč) which will, in a 120
minutes long ride, tell the history of famous Liburnian seamen. The mighty Učka Mountain towering above Opatija
as a lightning rod. With its 8 trails of a total length of 180
kilometres, with alternating riding on gravel road and asphalt, it offers an amazing view over the whole of Kvarner,
the coastal towns, the island of Cres and Ćićarija highlands.
The mountain air enriched with the fragrant plant species
will call you back.
Crikvenica and Vindol Riviera
Crikvenica, a famous place of health tourism, with its strong
sea climate has been healing and nurturing the human body
for centuries. With nearby Novi Vinodolski, a cradle of
Croatian common law (the Law Codex of Vinodol was written in 1299 in the Frankopan Castle), the Crikvenica and
Vinodol Riviera offers a return to the past. Taking a break
from the tourist ride by the sea leads towards the demanding trail through Crikvenica’s hinterland as well as towards
the Frankopan castles which, thanks to the local government, have not been forgotten and function today as tourist
attractions.
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lokalnim vlastima otrgnuti zaboravu i stavljeni u funkciju
turističke atrakcije.
Otoci Krk, Lošinj, Cres, Rab
Otoci, to blago Primorsko – goranske županije. Nosioci turizma cijele županije, spoj raznolikosti boja, okusa, mirisa.
Čak će i početnicima biti jasno zašto se svatko tko se jednom
proveze otocima, opet njima vraća. Brojni uređeni maslinici otoka Krka dekoracija su uređenim stazama. Poseban je
doživljaj ujesen se nakratko odmoriti od vožnje i priključiti
lokalnom stanovništvu u berbi maslina. Oaza obiteljskog
turizma na Lošinju nudi staze koje odišu ljekovitim biljem,
prirodni miomirisni vrtovi gotovo su na svakom kilometru.
Zaštićeni bjeloglavi sup bit će vaš domaćin dok biciklirate
Cresom. Rajske plaže i netaknute šume rapski su favoriti u
potrazi za uzbuđenjima na dva kotača.
Gorski Kotar
Zeleno srce Hrvatske ili Švicarska u malom samo su neki od
epiteta najraznovrsnijeg kutka zemlje. Lujzijana (najmodernija cesta svoga vremena, nazvana po Napoloeonovoj supruzi
Mariji Lujzi) izgrađena je početkom 19. stoljeća i kao moćna
rijeka prolazi kroz Gorski kotar, pozivajući avanturiste na najdulju, 85 km dugačku, biciklističku rutu. Vozeći uz Risnjak,
Kupskom dolinom, duž goranskih jezera putovi vode kroz
brojna obiteljska gospodarstva u kojima je grijeh ne kušati jedan od stotine biljnih likera koje ručno pripremaju mještani.
Islands of Krk, Lošinj, Cres and Rab
Islands, the treasure of the County of Primorje and Gorski
Kotar. Bearers of tourism in the whole county, a bond of a
diversity of colours, tastes and fragrances. It will be clear
even to beginners why everyone who once rides through the
islands comes back again. A number of olive groves on the
island of Krk are decoration for the arranged trails. A special experience in autumn is taking a short break from the
ride and join the local inhabitants for olive harvesting. An
oasis of family tourism on the island of Lošinj offers trails
that give off medicinal herbs; natural fragrant gardens can
be found at every kilometre. Whilst cycling through the island of Cres you will be hosted by the protected Griffon Vultures. Paradise beaches and untouched forests will be your
favourites on the island of Rab whilst searching for adventures on two wheels.
Gorski Kotar
The green heart of Croatia or little Switzerland are just some
of the epithets given to the most diverse corner of Croatia.
Lujzijana (the most modern road of its time, named after Napoleon’s wife Marie Louise) was built at the beginning of 19th
century and passes through Gorski Kotar like a mighty river
calling all adventurers for the 85 km long cycling route. Riding by the Risnjak Mountain, by the valley of the Kupa River,
along mountain lakes, these trails pass by family farms where
it would be a sin not to taste one of the hundreds of handmade
local herbal liqueurs.
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64
ZOOM Ranko Dokmanovi
Ranko Dokmanović, fotograf-umjetnik slobodne profesije, rođen je 9. 3. 1951. godine u Rijeci,
maturirao 1969. god. u Rijeci na Sušačkoj gimnaziji, a studirao na Filozofskom fakultetu u
Zagrebu povijest umjetnosti i Engleski jezik. Fotografijom se bavi od 1969. god. Član je Udruženja likovnih umjetnika primjenjene umjetnosti
Hrvatske (ULUPUH) od 1978. godine, a od 1979.
član je Hrvatske zajednice samostalnih umjetnika (HZSU). Članom Hrvatskog društva likovnih umjetnika - Rijeka (HDLUR) postaje 1984.
godine. Živi i radi u Kostreni kraj Rijeke kao profesionalni fotograf slobodne profesije. U opusu
Ranka Dokmanovića je šezdesetak samostalnih
izložbi u Hrvatskoj i inozemstvu, monografije
,nagrade i priznanja za fotografske slike.
Ranko Dokmanović, fotograf-umjetnik slobodne profesije, rođen je 9. 3. 1951. godine u
Rijeci, maturirao 1969. god. u Rijeci na Sušačkoj gimnaziji, a studirao na Filozofskom fakultetu u Zagrebu povijest umjetnosti i Engleski
jezik. Fotografijom se bavi od 1969. god. Član
je Udruženja likovnih umjetnika primjenjene
umjetnosti Hrvatske (ULUPUH) od 1978. godine, a od 1979. član je Hrvatske zajednice samostalnih umjetnika (HZSU). Članom Hrvatskog
društva likovnih umjetnika - Rijeka (HDLUR)
postaje 1984. godine. Živi i radi u Kostreni kraj
Rijekei kao profesionalni fotograf slobodne
profesije. U opusu Ranka Dokmanovića je šezdesetak samostalnih izložbi u Hrvatskoj i inozemstvu, monografije ,nagrade i priznanja za
fotografske slike.
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Slasni kutak / Tasty corner
Piše / Written by: Sanja Krmpoti
Šparoge
Asparagus
- Lovely spring buds
- dražesni pupoljci proljetni
Kraljevsko povrće, riznica zdravlja, hrana, lijek i afrodizijak.... samo su neki od epiteta kojim obožavatelji širom svijeta i od pamtivijeka opisuju svoju opčinjenost šparogama.
Pred osebujnom aromatikom njenih nježnih izdanaka pokleknule su okrunjene glave i mudraci, a od antike do danas
smatra se simbolom buđenja života i prirode.
Otud i porijeklo njezina naziva, latinski Asparagus dolazi od
staroperzijskog sparegha, što znači klica. Šparoga se ubraja u
najstarije samonikle kulture Mediterana, o ljekovitosti koje
postoje zapisi stari više tisuća godina. Freske na faraonskim
grobnicama upućuju da su ih poznavali i stari Egipćani, koji
su je smatrali svetom biljkom, te ju ostavljali u grobnicama
kao darove za pokojnike. Grci su više cijenili njezina ljekovita i iscjeljujuća svojstva, a prvi su je kultivirali Rimljani
kao delikatesno povrće za carske trpeze, koje je znalo težiti i
70-76_SPAROGE.indd 70
The royal vegetable, health treasure, food, medicine and
aphrodisiac…are just some of the epithets with which enthusiasts throughout the world and since time immemorial
have described their fascination with asparagus. Kings and
wise men could not resist the distinctive aroma of its tender
sprouts considering it from Antique periods to this day the
symbol of awakening life and nature.
This is where the origin of its name comes from, the Latin name
Asparagus comes from the ancient Persian sparegha which
means sprout. Asparagus is considered one of the oldest wild
Mediterranean cultures which medicinal properties were recorded over a thousand years ago. Frescoes on pharaohs’ tombs
indicate that even ancient Egyptians knew about it and considered it a holy plant putting it in tombs as gifts for their decedents.
Greeks appreciated more its medicinal and healing properties
7/31/13 12:23:31 AM
71
Marinirane trilje sa šparogama
Za 4 osobe:
@Ġ500ĠgramaĠtrilja
@Ġ200ĠgramaĠdivljihĠšparoga
@Ġ2Ġlimete
@ĠekstraĠdjevičanskoĠmaslinovoĠulje
@Ġsol
TriljeĠiletirajte;ĠteĠmarinirajteĠuĠekstraĠdjevičanskomĠmaslinovomĠulju;ĠsokuĠodĠlimeteĠiĠsoliĠokoĠ45Ġ
minuta:ĠVrhoveĠšparogaĠkratkoĠblanširajte;ĠsložiteĠ
naĠtanjur;ĠnaĠnjihĠpoložiteĠmariniraneĠtrilje;ĠteĠsveĠ
zalijteĠmarinadom:
ChefĠSinišaĠKontićPDraščić
KONOBA NEBULOZA
PodnoĠznamenitihĠTrsatskihĠstubaĠsĠpogledomĠnaĠ
brzaceĠRječineĠispreplićeĠseĠrustikalnoĠiĠmodernoĠ
uĠkonobiĠNebuloza;ĠkakoĠuĠuređenjuĠtakoĠiĠuĠtradicionalnojĠkuhinjiĠprezentiranojĠnaĠmoderanĠnačin:Ġ
UkusnaĠjelaĠprimorskogĠpodneblja;ĠdomaćaĠtjesteninaĠiĠkruhĠizĠkućneĠradinostiB
Marinated red mullet with asparagus
ForĠ4Ġpeople<
@Ġ500ĠgramsĠofĠredĠmullet
@Ġ200ĠgramsĠofĠwildĠasparagus
@Ġ2Ġlimes
@ĠextraĠvirginĠoliveĠoilĠ
@Ġsalt
FilletĠtheĠredĠmulletsĠandĠmarinateĠthemĠinĠ
extraĠvirginĠoliveĠoil;ĠlimeĠjuiceĠandĠsaltĠforĠ
someĠ45Ġminutes:ĠBoilĠtheĠasparagusĠtopsĠbriefly;ĠputĠthemĠonĠaĠplateĠandĠaboveĠthemĠplaceĠ
marinatedĠredĠmulletsĠandĠpourĠtheĠmarinatedĠ
juiceĠoverĠit:
ChefĠSinišaĠKontićPDraščić
NEBULOZA TAVERN
AtĠtheĠfootĠofĠtheĠfamousĠTrsatĠstairsĠwithĠaĠviewĠ
overĠtheĠRječinaĠRiverĠflows;ĠrusticĠandĠmodernĠelementsĠareĠinterweavedĠinĠtheĠNebulozaĠ
tavern=ĠbothĠinĠitsĠinteriorĠdesignĠandĠtraditionalĠcuisineĠpresentedĠinĠaĠmodernĠway:ĠTastefulĠ
mealsĠfromĠtheĠcoastalĠclimate;ĠhomemadeĠpastaĠ
andĠbread:
dekadentnih 120 grama po komadu. U srednjem vijeku šparoge privremeno padaju u zaborav sve do 17. stoljeća i vladavine francuskog kralja Luja XIV, koji ih je navodno toliko
obožavao da je stalne pošiljke iz staklenika dobivao od zime
do ljeta. Za to luksuzno i omiljeno povrće, u 19. stoljeću se
počelo izrađivati posebno posuđe i pribor, od porculana i
srebra. Dio tih raskošnih primjeraka danas se nalazi u jedinstvenom Europskom muzeju šparoga u njemačkom gradiću
Schrobenhausenu, koji prikazuje sveobuhvatnu priču o delikatnim vršcima s povijesnog, znanstvenog, gastronomskog,
umjetničkog i čak kuriozitetnog stajališta.
Hrana i lijek
Šparoga je višegodišnja biljka iz porodice Asparagaceae, a
može biti divlja ili pitoma, ovisno da li raste samoniklo ili
se uzgaja, zabilježeno je oko 300 vrsta, od kojih je samo
dvadesetak jestivih. U kulinarstvu je poznata Asparagus
70-76_SPAROGE.indd 71
and it was first cultivated by Romans as delicious vegetables
for the emperor’s tables. A piece would sometimes weigh a
decadent 120 grams. Asparagus were temporarily forgotten in
Middle Ages until 17th century and the rule of the French King
Louis XIV who apparently adored it so much that he received
continuous supplies from greenhouses from winter to summer.
In 19th century people started to make special kitchen utensils
and tableware from porcelain and silver for this luxurious and
favourite vegetable. A part of these luxurious samples can today
be found in the unique European Museum of Asparagus in the
small German town of Schrobenhausen that presents the comprehensive story about the delicate sprouts from historical, scientific, gastronomic, artistic and even curiosity point of view.
Food and medicine
Asparagus is a perennial plant of the Asparagaceae family, it
can be wild or domesticated depending on whether it grows
7/31/13 12:23:55 AM
72
Fritaja s divljim šparogama,
kozicama i medvjeđim lukom
ZaĠ1Ġosobu<
@Ġ2ĠžliceĠmaslinovogĠulja
@Ġ20ĠgramaĠmladogĠluka
@Ġ50ĠgramaĠočišćenihĠkozica
@Ġ30ĠgramaĠdivljihĠšparoga
@Ġ10ĠgramaĠmedvjeđegĠluka
@Ġ1ĠžličicaĠkonjaka
@Ġ3Ġjaja
@ĠpoĠželjiĠparĠfeticaĠpršuta;ĠcherryĠrajčiceĠiĠalfaPalfaĠklice
@Ġsol
NaĠzagrijanomĠmaslinovomĠuljuĠlaganoĠpopržiteĠnasjeckaniĠmladiĠluk;ĠočišćeneĠkoziceĠiĠvrhoveĠ
šparoga:ĠNakonĠjedneĠminute;ĠdodajteĠmedvjeđiĠluk;Ġ
teĠsveĠlambirajteĠžličicomĠkonjaka:ĠZatimĠdodajteĠ
istučenaĠjaja;ĠzačiniteĠsoljuĠiĠlaganoĠmiješajteĠdaĠ
seĠsmjesaĠpoveže;ĠaĠjajaĠostanuĠkremasta:ĠPoslužiteĠdekoriranoĠpoprženimĠfeticamaĠpršuta;ĠcherryĠ
rajčicamaĠiĠalfaPalfaĠklicama:
ChefĠAndrejĠGrgić
BISTROĠLAĠROSE
DašakĠpariškogĠšarmaĠuĠsrcuĠriječkogĠStarogĠgradaĠ
uĠbistrouĠLaĠRose;ĠgdjeĠseĠpripremajuĠizvornaĠfrancuskaĠjelaĠsaĠsezonskimĠprimorskimĠnamirnicama:Ġ
MediteranskaĠkuhinjaĠuĠshabbyĠchicĠatmosferiĠ
zaokruženaĠizboromĠodgovarajućihĠhrvatskihĠvina;Ġ
posluženihĠiĠnaĠčaše:
Fritaja (scrambled eggs)
with wild asparagus,
shrimps and wild garlic
ForĠ1Ġperson<
@Ġ2ĠspoonsĠofĠoliveĠoil
@Ġ20ĠgramsĠofĠspringĠonions
@Ġ50ĠgramsĠofĠcleanedĠshrimps
@Ġ30ĠgramsĠofĠwildĠasparagus
@Ġ10ĠgramsĠofĠwildĠgarlic
@Ġ1ĠteaĠspoonĠofĠcognac
@Ġ3Ġeggs
@ĠFewĠslicesĠofĠsmokedĠham;ĠcherryĠtomatoĠ
ĠĠĠĠandĠalfalfaĠsproutsĠaccordingĠtoĠtaste
@ĠSalt
GentlyĠfryĠtheĠcutĠspringĠonions;ĠcleanedĠshrimpsĠ
andĠasparagusĠtopsĠonĠheatedĠoil:ĠAfterĠaĠminuteĠ
addĠtheĠwildĠgarlicĠandĠflambéĠitĠaddingĠaĠteaspoonĠofĠcognac:ĠĠThenĠaddĠtheĠscrambledĠeggs;ĠsaltĠ
andĠmixĠslowlyĠsoĠthatĠmixtureĠinteractsĠandĠeggsĠ
remainĠcreamy:ĠServeĠandĠdecorateĠwithĠfriedĠ
slicesĠofĠsmokedĠham;ĠcherryĠtomatoesĠandĠalfalfaĠ
sprouts:
ChefĠAndrejĠGrgić
BISTROĠLAĠROSE
AĠbreathĠofĠParisĠcharmĠinĠtheĠheartĠofĠRijekasĠ
oldĠcentreĠinĠtheĠLaĠRoseĠbistroĠwhereĠtheĠoriginalĠ
FrenchĠmealsĠareĠpreparedĠusingĠseasonalĠcoastalĠ
ingredients:ĠMediterraneanĠcuisineĠinĠaĠshabbyĠchicĠ
atmosphereĠcompletedĠwithĠaĠchoiceĠofĠittingĠCroatianĠwinesĠservedĠbyĠtheĠglassĠasĠwell:
70-76_SPAROGE.indd 72
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Zbog povoljnog nutritivnog sastava, ubrajaju se
u najuravnoteženiju vrstu povrća. Siromašne su
kalorijama, s udjelom vode čak 93%, ali iznimno bogate
vitaminima, mineralima i vlaknima, što ih čini savršenom
namirnicom za zdravu prehranu, te vitku liniju.
Due to the favourable nutritional composition,
it is listed amongst the most balanced kind of
vegetables. Poor in calories, with water content as
high as 93%, but extremely rich in vitamins, minerals
and fibre which make it a perfect ingredient for
a healthy diet and slim figure.
officinalis – ljekovita šparoga. Šparoge su pravo proljetno
povrće, koje se bere uglavnom od ožujka do kraja svibnja, a
u narodu postoji izreka: trešnja crvena - šparoga gotova!
Zbog povoljnog nutritivnog sastava, ubrajaju se u najuravnoteženiju vrstu povrća. Siromašne su kalorijama, s udjelom vode čak 93%, ali iznimno bogate vitaminima, mineralima i vlaknima, što ih čini savršenom namirnicom za zdravu
prehranu, te vitku liniju. Najbogatije su folnom kiselinom i
vitaminima A, C i K, sadrže većinu vitamina skupine B, zatim mangan, kalij, kalcij, željezo i cink, te za zdravlje korisne fitokemikalije poput beta karotena, luteina i zeaksantina. Za njihovo snažno detoksikacijsko djelovanje, zaslužna
je aminokiselina asparagin, koja je dobila naziv upravo po
šparogama, a potiče pravilnu funkciju imunološkog sustava
i eliminaciju toksičnog amonijaka iz organizma.
Izvrsna su hrana za trudnice, zbog velikog sadržaja folne kiseline, neophodne za pravilan razvoj fetusa, dok flavonoid
rutin štiti srce i krvne žile. Povoljan profil minerala, visok
udio kalija i nizak natrija, u kombinaciji s već spomenutom aminokiselinom asparagin, čini šparogu snažnim prirodnim diuretikom, zadaća kojega je očistiti organizam od
otrovnih sastojaka nakupljenih tijekom zime, a istovremeno tijelu nadoknaditi minerale i vitamine. U tome joj pomaže i ugljikohidrat inulin, koji se ne probavlja nego povoljno
utječe na prijateljske bakterije u našem probavnom traktu,
djelujući laksativno.
Misteriozan miris i afrodizijak
Mnoge intrigira karakterističan miris urina, ubrzo nakon
konzumacije šparoga, misterij kojim se stoljećima bave elaborati liječnika, kemičara, čak i književnika. Glasoviti austrijsko-hrvatski liječnik, dr. Ernst Mayerhofer, u Leksikonu prehrane iz 1944. navodi da od šparoge mokraća dobiva
neki čudni smrdljivi zadah, a razlog tome je izlučivanje metilmerkaptana - ugljikovodika u spoju sa sumporom, na što
je naš organ njuha neobično osjetljiv. Ujedno smatra da bi
za taj miris mogao biti odgovoran i asparagin, što spominje
i cijenjeni američki autor novije generacije, Harold McGee,
tvrdeći da je riječ o spoju kemijski bliskom smradu tvora.
Pojedina istraživanja potvrđuju da, iako u različitim količinama, većina ljudi stvara navedene spojeve nakon konzumacije šparoga, ali sve osobe ne mogu osjetiti taj karakterističan miris. No neovisno o biokemijskim različitostima,
opisana promjena mirisa mokraće nije opasna i nipošto razlog za odricanje od ove visokovrijedne namirnice.
70-76_SPAROGE.indd 73
wild or it is cultivated; some 300 species have been discovered of which only twenty are edible. In cuisine it is known
as Asparagus officinalis – medicinal asparagus. Asparagus is
a real spring vegetable harvested mostly from March to the
end of May. There is also a popular saying: when the cherries are red, there is no more asparagus!
Due to the favourable nutritional composition, it is listed
amongst the most balanced kind of vegetables. Poor in calories, with water content as high as 93%, but extremely rich
in vitamins, minerals and fibre which make it a perfect ingredient for a healthy diet and slim figure. It is full of folic
acid and A, C and K vitamins, it has most vitamins of the B
group, manganese, potassium, calcium, iron and zinc as well
as healthy phytochemicals such as beta carotene, lutein and
zeaxanthin. The amino acid asparagine is responsible for
its strong detoxifying effect. It was named after asparagus
and it stimulates a regular immune system function and the
elimination of toxic ammonia from the body.
It is an excellent food for pregnant women as it contains a
large amount of folic acid necessary for the proper development of the foetus, whilst the flavonoid rutin protects the
heart and blood vessels. Its favourable profile of minerals,
high in potassium and low in sodium, in combination with
the already mentioned amino acid asparagine, makes asparagus a strong natural diuretic having the task to clean
the body from toxic substances accumulated during the
winter at the same time compensating the body’s minerals
and vitamins. Even the carbohydrate inulin helps it in that
task which is not digested but is beneficial to good bacteria
in our digestive tract acting as a laxative.
Mysterious fragrance and aphrodisiac
Many people are intrigued by the characteristic urine smell
shortly after eating asparagus, a mystery that has occupied
the studies of doctors, chemists and even writers for centuries. The famous Austrian and Croatian doctor, Dr. Ernst
Mayerhofer, in his Nutrition Lexicon from 1944 points out
that urine gets a strange, stinky smell from asparagus and
that is due to the secretion of methyl mercaptan – hydrocarbon in conjunction with sulphur to which our olfactory is
unusually sensitive. He also believes that asparagines could
also be responsible for that smell which is also mentioned
by the respected recent American author, Harold McGee,
claiming that it is a chemical compound very similar to the
smell skunks produce. Some research has confirmed that,
even in different quantities, most people produce mentioned compounds after eating asparagus, but not every
person can feel this characteristic smell. But regardless of
the biochemical diversities, the described change of smell
in urine is not dangerous and is by no means a reason to renounce this highly valuable ingredient.
Although there are a number of medicinal and gourmet
benefits of asparagus, in the middle of 17th century everything became less important when the virtuous doctor and
botanist Nicholas Culpeper in his study about edible plants
boasted about asparagus due to its strong influence on
7/31/13 12:24:11 AM
74
Premda ljekovitim i gurmanskim blagodatima šparoga skoro da nema kraja, sve je sredinom 17. stoljeća palo u drugi
plan kad je vrli liječnik i botaničar Nicholas Culpeper u
svom traktatu o jestivom bilju pohvalio šparoge zbog silnog utjecaja na buđenje tjelesne žudnje i moći! Ista su im
svojstva podjednako pridavali već i prije Hipokrat, Galen i
Apicije, nazivajući ih "laskavicama nepca", no prava pomama za proljetnim izdancima strasti, rasplamsala se u doba
baroka i prosvjetiteljstva. Tako je najpoznatija kraljeva
ljubavnica toga doba Madame de Pompadour za svoja hedonistička umijeća miješala žumanjke, vaniliju, tartufe i
šparoge, dok je njezin galantni istovremenik i zavodnik
Giacomo Casanova tvrdio da pupoljak velike divlje šparoge
već svojim izgledom može probuditi uspavanu muškost, pa
je u njima uživao u svim mogućim kombinacijama na tanjuru. Osim zbog falusnog oblika, šparoge se odavna smatraju
afrodizijakom i radi velikog udjela vitamina E, popularno
nazivanog vitaminom plodnosti, jer je važan čimbenik pri
sintezi hormona reprodukcije i time zdrava spolnog života.
Zelene, bijele i ružičaste
S obzirom na boju, šparoge se dijele na uglavnom zelene,
te bijele i ružičaste, ovisno samo o načinu uzgoja, no s bitnom razlikom u okusu. Bijele rastu ispod zemlje ili pokrivene od sunca, da bi se spriječio nastanak klorofila – biljnog
pigmenta, koji daje zelenu boju. Nježnijeg su i pomalo tupastog okusa, pa im u jelima treba pripomoć umaka i često
se prodaju konzervirane. Ružičaste djelomično rastu iznad
zemlje, uslijed čega im je vršak obojen, a zbog većeg udjela šećera okusom podsjećaju na voće. I naposljetku, zelena
šparoga, najizraženije arome i gastronomski samostalna.
U većini zemalja svijeta, šparoge se danas uzgajaju, a nude
i u najskupljim restoranima od predjela do deserta, jer su
izvrsna osnova za umake, pjenice, piree i ukusne juhe. Međutim, u hrvatskoj gastronomiji istinska naklonost pripada
onoj divljoj, šumskoj bez premca posebnoj po vitkom stasu,
mirisu i okusu. Izgledom je tanja, žilavija i tamnija, a okusom intenzivnije aromatike i gorčine, te navodno bogatija
mineralima i vitaminima, zbog čega se preporučuje kao sastavni dio zdravog proljetnog jelovnika.
Kvarnerska gastro-ikona
Šparoge odnosno šparuge, kako ih ovdje nazivaju, su dio
pučke tradicije, gdje se od djetinjstva s njima živi jedno godišnje doba, a beru se u tišini i nadmetanju s ostalim beračima po strmim padinama i kamenjarima, gdje samo dobro
izvježbano oko može razaznati tu izduženu, elegantnu biljku vještu u skrivanju.
Iako raste i u drugim dijelovima Hrvatske, sezona joj je najduža upravo na sjevernom Jadranu, gdje je postala obilježje
kvarnerske gastronomije posebice u vrijeme Uskrsa, kao najava nadolazećeg života i povratka u vanjski svijet. Ta kršćanska
ikonografija posebice dolazi do izražaja u čvrstoj gastronomskoj povezanosti šparoga i jaja - u fritajama – uvriježenom načinu pripremanja te biljke u ovim krajevima uz dodatak isto
tako divljeg medvjeđeg luka, te komadića pršuta ili pancete.
70-76_SPAROGE.indd 74
awakening carnal desires and power! The same characteristics had been given to it before by Hippocrates, Galen and
Apicius, calling it the “palate flatterer”, but the real craze
for the spring passion sprouts, flared up in the period of the
Baroque and Enlightenment. So the most famous king’s
lover of that period Madame de Pompadour mixed with her
hedonistic skills yolks, vanilla, truffles and asparagus, whilst
her gallant contemporary and seducer Giacomo Casanova
claimed that only the aspect of the bud of a wild asparagus
can awaken the dormant masculinity. Therefore he enjoyed
them in every possible combination on his plate. Besides its
phallic shape, asparagus has long been considered an aphrodisiac due to the large quantity of vitamin E, famously
called the vitamin of fertility being an important factor in
the synthesis of reproduction hormones and thereby of a
healthy sex life.
Green, white and purple
Due to its colour, asparagus is mostly divided into green,
white and purple depending on the cultivation method,
but with an important difference in taste. White asparagus
grow below the soil or hidden from the sun in order to prevent the production of chlorophyll – a pigment that gives
plants their green colour. Their taste is delicate and somewhat blunt so they have to be served with a sauce and are
often sold in tins. Purple asparagus partly grow above soil
due to which its top is coloured and because of the larger
quantity of sugar their taste resembles a fruit. And at the
end, the green asparagus with the most emphasized aroma
and gastronomically independent.
In most countries today asparagus is cultivated and is offered
in the most expensive restaurants from starters to desserts
as they are a perfect base for sauces, mousses, purees and
tasteful soups. However, in Croatian cuisine, the true affection belongs to the wild, forest asparagus special for its slim
figure, excellent smell and taste. It is slimmer, tougher and
darker and it has a stronger aroma and bitterness and is supposedly richer in minerals and vitamins due to which it is
recommended as an integral part of a healthy spring menu.
Kvarner gastro-icon
Asparagus, that is šparuge, as they are called in this area are
a part of popular tradition where you live with them since
your childhood once a season. They are harvested in silence and competiveness with other harvesters along steep
slopes and rocky grounds where only a good trained eye can
find this long, elegant plant skilful in hiding.
Although it grows in other parts of Croatia too, its longest
season is exactly here on the Northern Adriatic where it became the symbol of Kvarner cuisine especially in the Easter period announcing the upcoming life and return to the
outdoor world. This Christian iconography is particularly
evident in the strong gastronomic bond between asparagus
and eggs – in fritaje (scrambled eggs) – a customary way of
preparing this plant in these areas where wild garlic, pieces
of smoked ham or bacon are added.
7/31/13 12:24:11 AM
75
Rižoto sa škampima i šparogama
Za 4 osobe:
@Ġ250ĠgramaĠočišćenihĠškampa
@Ġ4ĠcijelaĠškampa
@Ġ300ĠgramaĠdivljihĠšparoga
@Ġ350ĠgramaĠrižeĠXarborioY
@Ġ1:5ĠdclĠbijelogĠvina
@Ġ7ĠdclĠribljegĠtemeljca
@Ġ2ĠrežnjaĠčešnjakaĠ
@Ġ0:5ĠdclĠmaslinovogĠulja
@Ġ4ĠcherryĠrajčice
@Ġ100ĠgramaĠribanogĠparmezana
@ĠmaloĠperšina
@ĠmaloĠsoli
NaĠmaslinovomĠuljuĠpopržiteĠcijeleĠškampe;ĠskloniteĠihĠsaĠtave;ĠteĠnaĠistomĠuljuĠpropirjajteĠrižuĠdokĠ
neĠpocakli:ĠPodlijteĠbijelimĠvinomĠiĠpolovicomĠribljegĠtemeljca;ĠzatimĠdodajteĠočišćenoĠmesoĠškampa;ĠvrhoveĠšparoga;ĠisjeckaniĠčešnjak;ĠteĠzačiniteĠ
solju:ĠPirjajteĠnaĠlaganojĠvatriĠuzĠstalnoĠmiješanjeĠ
iĠpodlijevanjeĠpreostalimĠribljimĠtemeljcemĠokoĠ15P
18Ġminuta:ĠSkloniteĠsĠvatre;ĠdodajteĠsjeckaniĠperšinĠ
iĠribaniĠparmezan;ĠteĠukrasiteĠcijelimĠškampimaĠiĠ
cherryĠrajčicama:
ChefĠEdvinĠŽigante
RISTORANTE SPAGHO
UĠbliziniĠriječkeĠriveĠsĠobzoromĠnaĠpadineĠUčke;Ġ
RistoranteĠSpaghoĠnjegujeĠstrastĠtalijanskeĠkuhinjeĠ
poĠoriginalnimĠrecepturamaĠpratećiĠpovijesnuĠtradicijuĠkulinarstvaĠuĠizradiĠtjestenine;Ġpizza;ĠrižotaĠiĠ
ostalihĠjela;ĠkombinirajućiĠkarakterističneĠnamirniceĠiĠnačineĠprigotovljavanjaĠjela:Ġ
Scampi and asparagus risotto
ForĠ4Ġpeople<
@Ġ250ĠgramsĠofĠcleanedĠscampi
@Ġ4ĠwholeĠscampi
@Ġ300ĠgramsĠofĠwildĠasparagus
@Ġ350ĠgramsĠofĠriceĠXArborioY
@Ġ15ĠclĠofĠwhiteĠwine
@Ġ70ĠclĠofĠishĠstock
@Ġ2ĠgarlicĠclovesĠ
@Ġ5ĠclĠofĠoliveĠoil
@Ġ4ĠcherryĠtomatoes
@Ġ100ĠgramsĠofĠgratedĠparmesanĠcheese
@ĠaĠbitĠofĠparsley
@ĠaĠbitĠofĠsalt
FryĠtheĠwholeĠscampiĠinĠoliveĠoil;ĠremoveĠthemĠfromĠ
theĠpanĠandĠinĠtheĠsameĠoilĠbraiseĠtheĠriceĠuntilĠitĠ
becomesĠtransparent:ĠPourĠinĠsomeĠwhiteĠwineĠandĠ
halfĠofĠtheĠishĠstockĠthenĠaddĠtheĠcleanedĠscampi;Ġ
asparagusĠtops;ĠcutĠgarlicĠandĠsomeĠsalt:ĠBraiseĠonĠ
aĠlowĠheatĠstirringĠcontinuouslyĠandĠpourĠinĠtheĠrestĠ
ofĠtheĠishĠstockĠforĠaboutĠ15P18Ġminutes:ĠRemoveĠ
fromĠtheĠheat;ĠaddĠtheĠcutĠparsleyĠandĠgratedĠparmesanĠcheeseĠandĠdecorateĠwithĠwholeĠscampiĠandĠ
cherryĠtomatoes:
ChefĠEdvinĠŽigante
SPAGHO RESTAURANT
CloseĠtoĠRijekasĠwaterfrontĠwithĠtheĠviewĠoverĠMountĠUčkaIsĠslopes;ĠtheĠRistoranteĠSpaghoĠcherishesĠ
theĠpassionĠofĠItalianĠcuisineĠaccordingĠtoĠoriginalĠ
recipesĠfollowingĠtheĠhistoricalĠculinaryĠtraditionĠinĠ
theĠpreparationĠofĠpasta;Ġpizzas;ĠrisottosĠandĠotherĠ
dishesĠcombiningĠcharacteristicĠingredientsĠandĠ
waysĠofĠpreparation:Ġ
70-76_SPAROGE.indd 75
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Najslađe i najsočnije su one prve, mlade šparoge, koje se
beru pažljivo ostavljajući korijen, da bi iduće godine narastao novi izdanak. Pri izboru šparoga, bilo da ih berete ili
kupujete, treba pripaziti da budu čvrste, zatvorenih vrhova, sjajne površine i živozelene boje, te ih čim prije pripremiti, najkasnije za dan-dva, čuvajući u hladnjaku stabljika
zamotanih u papir ili vlažnu kuhinjsku krpu. Prije obrade
valja odvojiti drvenasti dio, nježno savijajući svaku stabljiku da sama prirodno pukne. Tvrdi dio se može koristiti za
pripremu juhe ili temeljca za podlijevanje rižota i tjestenine, a mekani vrh hrskav i aromatičan često se dodaje jelima sirov ili uz minimalnu termičku obradu, a izvrsno se
nadopunjuje s mesom i plodovima mora, posebice sa slatkoćom škampa i ovčjom skutom, prirodnom simbiozom
Kvarnera na pijatu.
The sweetest and juiciest are the first, young asparagus that
are harvested carefully leaving the root in order to make a new
sprout grow the following year. When choosing asparagus, regardless of whether you harvest or buy them, you should pay
attention and see if they are strong, with closed tops, a shiny
surface and a vivid green colour. You should also prepare them
a day or two after harvesting them keeping them in the fridge
wrapped in paper or a damp kitchen towel. You should cut
the wooden piece before preparing them, gently folding every
stem in order to break them naturally. The hard part can be
used for soups or a base for risottos and pasta, whilst the soft,
crispy and aromatic part is often added to dishes raw or with
minimal heating up. It goes excellently with meat and seafood,
especially with sweet scampi and sheep’s curd cheese, a natural symbiosis of Kvarner on a plate.
Tjedan šparoga u Rijeci
Asparagus week in Rijeka
Ljubitelji šparoga koji su vičniji u jelu nego u branju, mogli
su u ovim ukusnim i ljekovitim šumskim izdancima uživati krajem travnja na manifestaciji RI gastro – Tjedan šparoga, u organizaciji Turističke zajednice grada Rijeke. Niz
ugostiteljskih objekata Rijeke i okolnih mjesta takozvanog riječkog prstena pripremalo je jela sa šparogama, te
drugim sezonskim i lokalnim namirnicama, s naglaskom
na tradiciju i za zdravlje blagotvornu mediteransku prehranu. Izdvajamo nekoliko objekata i preporuke njihovih
chefova kuhinje.
Those asparagus enthusiasts who like eating it rather than
harvesting them could enjoy this tasteful and medicinal
forest sprout at the end of April during the event entitled
‘RI gastro – Asparagus Week’ organised by the Rijeka Tourist Board. A series of catering localities from Rijeka and the
surrounding area of the so-called Rijeka ring prepare dishes with asparagus and other seasonal and local ingredients
emphasising the tradition and beneficial healthy Mediterranean diet. We have selected several localities and the recommendations of their chefs.
70-76_SPAROGE.indd 76
7/31/13 12:24:28 AM
77
Mozaik - dogaanja / Mosaic - events
Srpanj / July 2013
30.6 - 25.7.
30.6 - 25.7
Riječke ljetne noći
Rijeka Summer Nights
Jubilarne desete Riječke ljetne noći zasjat će kao najsjajnija
zvijezda pod Europskim nebom.Naime ova manifestacija
otvara se točno u ponoć prvog srpnja, na datum ulaska Republike Hrvatske u Europsku Uniju. U prvim minutama iza
ponoći izvedbom europske himne, “Ode Radosti “proslavit
će se ulazak u europsku obitelj i svečano će se otvoriti još
jedne Riječke ljetne noći. Bit će to vrhunac večeri popraćen
velikim vatrometom.
Svečanom ponoćnom otvaranju festivala prethodi
zvedba spektakularne “Carmine burane”. Gotovo 150
izvođača baletnog ansambla, zbora i orkestra Opere
HNK Ivana pl. Zajca krenut će u povorci od HNK Ivana
pl. Zajca preko Korza do Gata Karoline Riječke gdje će
izvesti nezaboravnu predstavu ,a prema najavama iz
kazališta prisutni ovu izvedbu Orffovog remek djela neće
zaboraviti. Riječke ljetne noći, jedan su od kulturnih
simbola grada Rijeke, ovaj renomirani ljetni festival se
ne propušta.
Jubilarno izdanje festivala ponudit će publici neke od najgledanijih predstava u posljednih deset godina postojanja.
U glazbenom dijelu programa očekuje nas niz atraktivnih
koncerta, pravih glazbenih užitaka, i nastupi vrhunskih
glazbenika. Festivalu se ove godine pridružuju i druga
riječka kazališta, riječko će Tranzijsko fikcijsko kazalište
TRAFIK obilježiti 15. godišnjicu svoga postojanja , a prilog
programu Riječkih ljetnih noći dat će i riječko Gradsko
kazalište lutaka izvedbom mjuzikla "Pepeljuga" 09. srpnja
na Trgu sv. Barbare.
Publika će osim u visokoj umjetničkoj kvaliteti Festivala
uživati na razičitim lokacijama diljem grada koje će biti
pretvorene u pozornice čime će se publici omogućiti da
otkrije djelove grada koje do sada možda nisu vidjeli. Stara
vila, plaža ,samostan, napuštena tvornica, katedrala, ulica
i skladište, samo su neka od mjesta na kojima će se izvoditi
program ovog ambijentalnog Festivala.
2.7. / Gospoda Glembajevi
U HNK Ivana pl. Zajca u sklopu programa Riječkih ljetnih
noći , u 21:30 sati gostuje Slovensko narodno gledališče
Drama Ljubljana s jednim od najpoznatijih djela Miroslava
Krleže, Gospoda Glembajevi.
3. ,4. i 5.7. / Lukrecija o'bimo rekli Požeruh
Na plaži Glavanovo na Pećinama odgirat će se jedna od najuspješnijih predstava u sklopu Festivala Riječke ljetne noći
„Lukrecija o'bimo rekli Požeruh“. Komedija je to Hrvatske
drame HNK Ivana pl. Zajca u kojoj su plaža i samo more
iskorišteni kao pozornica. Nepredvidivost ambijentalnog
teatra zasigurno će oduševiti publiku.
8.7. / Riječki rokeri s riječkom filharmonijom
Rijeka spaja nespojivo, bivšu tvornicu, filharmoniju i rock!
Na neobičnoj lokaciji, u napuštenom industrijskom okruženju ,u bivšoj tvornici papira „Hartera“ održat će se kocert
Riječke filharmonije i Hrvatske glazbene unije „Riječki rokeri s riječkom filharmonijom“. Nastupit će poznata riječka
imena poput Damira Urbana, Zorana Prodanovića Prlje,
Deana Škaljca i Žanil Tataj Žaka.
The anniversary tenth edition of Rijeka Summer Nights will
shine like the brightest star under the European sky. In fact,
this event will be opened at midnight on 1st July, the date
when the Republic of Croatia becomes a European Union
member. In the first minutes after midnight Croatia’s entry
to the European family will be celebrated and another Rijeka
Summer Nights will open with the performance of the European anthem “Ode to Joy”. It will be the highlight followed by
a large firework’s display.
Before the ceremonial festival opening the amazing “Carmina Burana” will be performed. Almost 150 performers of the
“Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre’s ballet ensemble,
choir and orchestra will start the parade from the “Ivan pl
Zajc” Theatre building, through Korzo up to the Karolina
Riječka Pier where the unforgettable show will be played and
according to the theatre’s announcements, this performance
of Orff’s masterpiece will not be forgotten. Rijeka Summer
Nights are one of the city of Rijeka’s cultural symbols which
should not be missed.
The anniversary festival will offer the public some of the most
seen shows in the last ten years of its existence. The musical part of the programme will include a series of attractive
concerts, real musical pleasures as well as the performances
of excellent musicians. Other Rijeka theatres will join this
year's festival too: Rijeka's Trafik Transit and fiction theatre
will celebrate its 15th year whilst Rijeka’s Puppet Theatre will
enrich the programme of Rijeka Summer Nights performing
the musical “Cinderella” on 9th July in St. Barbara’s Square.
Besides the Festival’s high artistic quality, the audience will
enjoy various locations throughout the city that will be turned
into stages and by which will allow the public to discover those
parts of the city that maybe have not been uncovered until
now. An old villa, beach, monastery, abandoned factory, cathedral, street and storage are just some of the places at which the
programme of this ambient Festival will take place.
2.7 / The Glembay Gentlemen
The Ivan pl. Zajc Croatian National Theatre within the programme of Rijeka Summer Nights, at 9.30 pm will host the Drama
Ljubljana Slovenian National Theatre that will perform one of
the most famous works written by Miroslav Krleža entitled “The
Glembay Gentlemen”.
3, 4 and 5.7 / Lukrecija o'bimo rekli Požeruh
On Glavanovo beach at Pećine will be played one of the most successful shows within Rijeka Summer Nights Festival entitled “Lukrecija o'bimo rekli Požeruh”. It is a comedy produced by the Ivan pl.
Zajc Croatian National Theatre’s drama department in which the
beach and the sea itself are used as the stage. The unpredictability
of the ambient theatre will surely thrill the audience.
8.7 / Rijeka’s rockers with Rijeka’s Philharmonic
Orchestra
Rijeka combines the incompatible, a former factory, the philharmonic orchestra and rock! In an unusual location, in abandoned
industrial surroundings, in the former “Hartera” paper factory
the concert by Rijeka's Philharmonic Orchestra and Croatian
Music Union entitled "Rijeka’s rockers with Rijeka’s Philharmonic Orchestra" will take place. Famous Rijeka names such as
Damir Urban, Zoran Prodanović Prlja, Dean Škaljac and Žanil
Tataj Žala will perform.
78
Mozaik - dogaanja / Mosaic - events
1.7. - 10.9.
Ljeto na Gradini
Na Trsatskoj gradini u mjesecu srpnju će se odviti glavnina kulturno-zabavnih manifestacija i koncerata koji svake godine privlače sve veći broj posjetitelja u okviru „Ljeta na Gradini 2013.“
1.7. - 10.9.
Summer on Gradina (Castle)
Most of the cultural and entertainment events and concerts of the
“Summer on Gradina 2013” programme will, in July, take place at the
Trsat Castle which attracts a growing number of visitors every year.
17.7. - 22.7.
Rafineri + Ex Oriente Film
Rijeka će ugostiti zanimljivu, internacionalnu radionicu, odnosno festival koji se diljem Europe održava još od 2003. Radionica
je posvećena razvoju dokumentarnog filma srednje i istočne
Europe, a u njoj će sudjelovati brojni filmski autori, amateri,
vizualni umjetnici te sama publika.
17. 07. - 22. 07.
Rafineri + Ex Oriente Film
Rijeka will host an interesting, international workshop, that is, a festival that has been taking place throughout Europe since 2003. The
workshop is dedicated to the development of central and Eastern
Europe’s documentary film and a number of film authors, amateurs,
visual artists and the audience itself will take part.
18. - 20.7.
Festival Republika
U bivšoj riječkoj tvornici „Rikard Benčić“ te na poznatom brodu
„Galeb“ u Rijeci okupit će se sudionici Festivala „ Republika“. Festival je najavljen kao spoj festivala, ljetne škole i konferencije sa
sudjelovanjem nekih od najkreativnijih i najuzbudljivijih umova
današnjice.
18 - 20. 07
Republika Festival
The former “Rikard Benčić” factory as well as the famous “Galeb”
boat in Rijeka will bring together participants of the "Republika" Festival. The Festival has been announced as a combination of festival,
summer school and conference where some of the most creative and
most exciting minds of today will take part.
20.7.
Risnjak Trail
Risnjak Trail je trail running natjecanje čija staza povezuje
najljepše predjele Nacionalnog parka Risnjak. Utrka započinje i
završava u Crnom Lugu, a natjecatelje Horvatovom stazom preko
Risnjaka vodi u dolinu Lazac odakle se ponovo penje na predivni
otvoreni greben Međuvrha i Snježnika.
20.7
Risnjak Trail
Risnjak Trail is a trail running competition the track of which
connects the most beautiful parts of the Risnjak National Park. The
race starts and ends in Crni Lug, whilst the track leads competitors
through Horvat trail, over Risnjak to the Lazac valley from where it
goes uphill again to the open ridge between Međuvrh and Snježnik.
Kolovoz / August 2013
15.8.
Velika gospa
Na Trsatu se odvija svakako
središnji događaj mjeseca proslava blagdana Vele Gospe u
Trsatskom svetištu Majke Božje.
Impresivan ambijent perivoja
Gospe Trsatske i ove će godine
privući na tisuće hodočasnika,
vjernika i ostalih namjernika iz
Rijeke i ostatka svijeta.
15.8.
The Feast of the
Assumption
Surely the most important event
in the month will take place on
Trsat - the celebration of the
Assumption of Mary holiday
in the Our Lady of Trsat Shrine.
The impressive ambient of the
Our Lady of Trsat’s park will,
this year again, attract thousands
of pilgrims, believers and other
chance travellers from Rijeka
and from the rest of the world.
Riječke stepenice
U kolovozu će se na poznatim kamenitim stepenicama kraj Grand
hotela Bonavia u centru grada ponovno okupiti poznate osobe iz
javnog života noseći revije domaćih modnih dizajnera. Bit će ovo
već sedmo po redu izdanje „Riječkih stepenica“.
Rijeka’s steps
The famous stone steps by the Grand Hotel Bonavia in the very city
centre in August will, once again, bring together famous people from
public life who will wear fashion clothes designed by Croatian fashion designers. This will be the seventh edition of the “Rijeka’s steps”.
79
Mozaik - dogaanja / Mosaic - events
Rujan / September 2013
27. - 29.9.
Rijeka nautic show
uz samo more - na Gatu
Karoline Riječke i na Rivi Boduli
- smjestit će se „Rijeka nautic
show“ - nautički sajam za sve
zaljubljenike u nautiku.
27. - 29.9.
Rijeka nautical show
Right by the sea - on the Karolina
Riječka Pier and on Riva Boduli
will take place the “Rijeka
Nautical Show” - a nautical fair
for all nautical enthusiasts.
10.9.
Ljeto na Gradini
Do 10. rujna još uvijek traju zabavno - kulturne večeri u sklopu
„Ljeta na Gradini“. S 10. rujnom, kao i svake godine, upečatljivom
završnicom još će se jedno „Ljeto na Gradini“ oprostiti od svoje publike, od svih svojih gostiju koji su prepoznali užitak svježih ljetnih
večeri u prekrasnom ambijentu i poslovično kvalitetnom sadržaju.
10.9
Summer on Gradina (Castle)
The entertainment and cultural evenings within the “Summer on Gradina”
programme last until 10th September. On 10th September, just as previous
years, the “Summer on Gradina” will say goodbye to its audience, all its guests that recognised the pleasure of fresh summer evenings in this beautiful
atmosphere and a high quality content with a striking closing event.
7.9.
Muzej djetinstva
U Rijeci s radom započinje prvi hrvatski Muzej djetinjstva. Na poziv Muzeja računala „Peek & Pooke“ u Rijeku su mjesecima stizale
omiljene igračke iz djetinstva građana iz cijele Hrvatske, ali i iz
svijeta koje su postale muzejski eksponati. Tako se u muzeju nalaze
igračke iz Sjedinjenih Američkih država, Norveške, Luksemburga
i Švicarske. U muzeju se možete prisjetiti legendarnih rošula, rubikove kocke, bmx-ica, pony bicikala, spomenara.... Ne propustite
pogledati s čim su se naši pretci igrali davne 1897. godine.
7. 9
Museum of the Childhood
The first Croatian Museum of the Childhood will start to exhibit its
parts in Rijeka. At “Peek&Poke” Museum of Computer’s initiative in
Rijeka for months favourite toys from the childhood of inhabitants
throughout Croatia have been arriving, as well as from the world becoming in this way museum exhibits. Therefore, in the museum can be
found toys from United States of America, Norway, Luxembourg and
Switzerland. Whilst in the museum you can remember the legendary
roller skates, Rubik’s cube, BMX bikes, Pony bikes, scrapbooks… Do
not miss a chance to see what your ancestors played with back in 1897.
3. - 8.9.
Zoom festival
Udruga „Drugo more“ publici predstavlja još jedan „Zoom festival“ - manifestaciju s raznovrsnim, ali kvalitetnim umjetničkim
programom na nekoliko gradskih lokacija. Fokus festivala je na
umjetničkim radovima koje je teško svrstati u zasebna umjetnička područja, ali koji bez problema kombiniraju različite metode,
tehnike i izričaje.
3 - 8.9
Zoom Festival
The “Drugo more” Association will present the audience another “Zoom
Festival”, an event with various, as well as quality art programmes at a
number of city locations. The festival is focused on art works that cannot
be easily classified into separate artistic areas but which combine, without
any problem, various methods, techniques and expressions.
14.9.
Učka Trail
Sudionici ovog trail running natjecanja uživat će u jedinstvenom
spoju mora i planine, mediteranske klime, raznolike šumske vegetacije, plavog i zelenog, sa predivnim pogledima na Kvarnerski
zaljev i otoke te Istru na zapadu.
14. 9
Učka Trail
The participants of this trail competition will enjoy the unique combination of sea and mountain, Mediterranean climate, various forest
vegetation, the blue and green with magnificent views of Kvarner
Bay, islands and Istria to the west.
21.9.
Kulturni Centar Kalvarija
U Kulturnom centru Kalvarija otvara se sezona 2013./2014.
Sezonu otvara prva porno komedija u Hrvatskoj „Porn star“.
21.9
Kalvarija Cultural Centre
In the Kalvarija Cultural Centre the 2013/2014 season will be opened
by the performance of the first porno comedy in Croatia “Porn Star”.
26.9.-29.9.
Florijana
U Rijeci se na mostu ispred hotela Kontinental održava 8. Florijana, sajam cvijeća. Ljubitelji cvijeća doći će na svoje posjetom
ovoj cvjetnoj manifestaciji izložbenog, edukativnog i prodajnog
karaktera. Sajam prate organizirana stručna predavanja, praktične radionice i demonstracije putem kojih možete naučiti više o
pojedinim vrstama cvijeća, uzgoju i njezi biljaka.
26.9 -29.9
Florijana
On the bridge in front of the Kontinental Hotel in Rijeka will take
place the 8th Florijana, flower fair. Flower enthusiasts will be thrilled if they visit this educational and sale flower event. The fair will
include organised lectures by experts, practical workshops and demonstrations where you can learn more about certain flower species,
their cultivation and plant care.
80
Mozaik - dogaanja / Mosaic - events
Listopad / October 2013
Zajčevi dani
Uz trajanje u rujnu započetog Festivala komorne glazbe, u listopadu se u Rijeci održava još jedna glazbena manifestacija - Zajčevi dani. Hrvatsko narodno kazalište odabranim će programom
pred publiku staviti djela hrvatske glazbene baštine.
Zajc Days
Whilst the Chamber Music Festival that began in September is still running,
Rijeka will host another musical event entitled Zajc Days in October. The
Croatian National Theatre will present to the audience a selected programme that will include works of art from Croatian musical heritage.
5.-6.10.
Cro Open karate turnir
U Rijeku pristižu vrhunski karatisti iz Hrvatske i iz svijeta, od 5.
do 6. listopada održava se Cro open karate turnir.
5 - 6.10
Cro Open Karate Tournament
In Rijeka top karate players from all over the world will arrive because
from 5th to 6th October the Cro Open Karate Tournament will take place.
18 - 20.10.
Kulturni centar Kalvarija
U KUC Kalvariji održava se vikend hit komedije „Noćna
patrola“. Radi se o jednoj od najdugovječnijih riječkih predstava
koja će uskoro obilježiti svoju stotu izvedbu. Ova hit komedija
odigrava se u tri nastavka , 18. lipnja će na daskama Kalvarije
zaigrati „Noćna patrola 0“, prva 3D komedija u Hrvatskoj,
potom sljedi „Noćna patrola 1“ ,a vikend ćemo ispratiti s
„Noćnom patrolom 2“.
18 - 20.10
Kalvarija Cultural Centre
In the Kalvarija Cultural Centre, during this weekend, the “Night
Patrol” hit comedy will take place. It is one of the most enduring
Rijeka’s shows that will soon celebrate its hundredth performance.
This hit comedy is played in three episodes, on 18th June on Kalvarija stage will be performed the "Night Patrol 0", the first Croatian
3D comedy, followed by the “Night Patrol 1” whilst we will end the
weekend with "Night Patrol 2".
25. - 26.10.
Hal's All Star Guitar Festival
Održat će se fantastično svoj, no dovoljno otvoren raznovrsnoj
publici Hal's All Star Guitar Festival. Riječ je o svake godine sve
kvalitetnijem okupljanju predstavnika svjetske gitarističke elite
pod organizatorskom palicom Damira Halilića Hala.
25 - 26. 10
Hal's All Star Guitar Festival
This fantastically personal, but still open enough to various audiences, Hal’s All Star Guitar Festival will be held. This is the annual quality gathering of representatives of the world guitar elite organised
by Damir Halilić Hal.
31.10.
Halloween
Listopad će Rijeci biti ispraćem pod maskama. Diljem grada održavaju se popularni Haloween partyji.
31.10
Halloween
October in Rijeka will end under masks. Throughout the city the
famous Halloween parties will take place.
Studeni / November 2013
4. - 12.11.
Međunarodna revija lutkarskih kazališta
U Gradskom kazalištu lutaka i u HKD-u na Sušaku
vrijeme je za Međunarodnu reviju lutkarskih kazališta.
Dječja i lutkarska kazališta iz Hrvatske, ali i Europe i
ove će godine predstaviti svoja najbolja izdanja tijekom
osmodnevne manifestacije.
International Puppet Theatre Festival
In the City Puppet Theatre as well as in the Croatian
Cultural Centre on Sušak will take place the International
Review of Puppet Theatres. Children’s and Puppet theatres
from Croatia as well as from Europe will, this year, present
ws during the eight day long event .
23. - 24. 11.
Tradicionalni susret klapa - 20. „Bašćanski glasi“
Udruga „Bašćinski glasi“ pobrinut će se za organizaciju još jednog
Susreta klapa u HKD-u na Sušaku. Za sve željne originalne hrvatske glazbe koja ne postoji nigdje drugdje u svijetu - ovo okupljanje najboljih hrvatskih klapa je pun pogodak.
23 - 24. 11
Traditional Klapa Reunion - 20th “Baška’s Voices”
The “Bašćinski glasi” Association will organise another Klapa Reunion in the Croatian Cultural Centre on Sušak. For all those who
like original Croatian music that does not exist anywhere else in
the world - this reunion of the best Croatian klapas is a great hit.
Muzej Grada Rijeke
U ovome mjesecu u Muzeju grada Rijeke otvaraju se dvije izložbe
- ona Mornaričke akademije 12. studenog te izložba arhitektonskog opusa Giovannija Rubinicha - poznatog riječkog arhitekta s
početka 20. stoljeća koja se otvara 21. studenog.
Rijeka City Museum
In Rijeka’s City Museum two exhibitions will be opened in November
- the Sailor’s Academy on 12th November and an exhibition of architectonic work by Giovanni Rubinich - a famous Rijeka architect from
the beginning of 20th century that will be opened on 21st November.
81
Prosinac / December 2013
31.12.
Doček nove 2014. godine
Na riječkom Korzu održat će se već očekivano
spektakularan ispraćaj stare i doček nove 2014. godine.
Želite li netradicionalno, ali u maniri svjetskih metropola
dočekati novu godinu - riječko vas Korzo neće iznevjeriti.
KRAF
Početkom prosinca u Rijeci se tradicionalno odvija KRAF Kvarnerska Revija Amaterskog Filma. Festival je utemeljen još
1969. godine, što ga čini jednim od starijih festivala neprofesijskog filma. Osim što doprinosi kulturi kvarnerske regije,
KRAF djeluje i šire; filmovi ne samo da pristižu iz svih dijelova
Hrvatske, vec i izvan njezinih granica. Njegov otvoreni i medunarodni karakter omogucava bogatu medukulturalnu razmjenu i sveobuhvatniji prijem sedme umjetnosti.
KRAF stoji na raspolaganju svakoj vrsti gledatelja i stvaratelja,
filmskim entuzijastima, strucnjacima, raznim filmskim profesijama, ali i filmskim laicima koji se tek pocinju upoznavati
sa svijetom filma. Šarolik, dinamican i nezavisan, KRAF daje
uvid u razlicite kulturno-umjetnicke svjetonazore i kao takav
poucava o razlicitostima promovirajuci kreativnost i tehnicku
kulturu.
Žiri KRAF-a cine razni uvaženi i eminentni gosti, filmolozi,
redatelji, filmski kriticari i ostali medijski strucnjaci, koji od
pristiglih filmova biraju one najuspješnije.
KRAF
At the beginning of December Rijeka will traditionally host the
KRAF - Kvarner Review of Amateur Film. This Festival was
founded in 1969 which makes it one of the oldest non-professional film festivals. Besides its contribution to the culture of the
Kvarner region, KRAF operates in wider area as well; its films
come from all parts of Croatia as well as from abroad. Its open
international character provides rich inter-cultural exchange
and more comprehensive reception of the seventh art.
KRAF is at the disposal of all kind of spectators and creators,
film enthusiasts, experts, various film professions as well as
film laymen who only recently started to meet the world of film.
Colourful, dynamic and independent, KRAF reflects various cultural and artistic points of view and as such teaches the varieties
promoting the creativity and technical culture.
KRAF's jury is made of eminent and respectable guests, filmologists, directors, film critics and other media experts that chose
the most successful films amongst those arriving.
9. - 20.12.
Kulturni centar Kalvarija
Kulturni centar Kalvarija organizira „Prosinac za djecu“, specijalni Božićno-novogodišnji program za najmlađe u sklopu kojeg se
održavaju predstave za djecu, igraonice, radionice te doček djeda
Božićnjaka koji će donjeti poklone za svu djecu.
09 - 20.12.
Kalvarija Cultural Centre
The Kalvarija Cultural Centre organises the “December for Children”, a special Christmas and New Year’s programme for the
youngest within which shows for children, playrooms, workshops
and a welcome from Santa Claus who will bring gifts for all children will take place.
Prosinac u Rijeci
Prosinac u lampicama osvjetljenoj Rijeci donosi radost za male
i velike. Osim brojnih božićnih koncerata i događanja, blagdanskom ozračju u Rijeci doprinijet će koncerti uoči novogodišnje
noći koji će se održati 28.12. - 30.12. u Hrvatskom narodnom
kazalištu Ivana pl. Zajca.
December in Rijeka
December in Rijeka is enlightened by Christmas lamps that bring
joy for youngsters and for adults. Besides a number of Christmas
concerts and events, New Year’s Eve concerts will also take place
from 28th - 30th December in the Ivan pl. Zajc Croatian National
Theatre and will contribute to the holiday atmosphere.
82
Press clipping - Kako nas drugi vide / As others see us
Jadranska princeza!
Adriatic princess!
Baltic Outlook
Baltic Outlook
Ljudi su ti koji kroje najbolje dojmove o određenom mjestu. Nekoliko dana provedenih u Rijeci i njezinoj okolici uvjerili su me da je
to višeznačan prijateljski hrvatski lučki grad, vrlo često polazna
točka za putovanja u ostale dijelove zemlje, kao i u obližnje Italiju
i Sloveniju.
The best impressions of a place are made by its people. A few days spent
in Rijeka and its surrounding area convinced me that it is multi-faceted
and friendly Croatian port city, which usually serves as a starting point
for travel to the rest of the country, as well as to neighbouring Italy and
Slovenia.
TEKST NAPISALA ELINA RUKA
TEXT BY ELINA RUKA
Tu večer kad sam stigla u Rijeku lagano je rominjalo, ali izgleda
da to mještane nije zabrinjavalo. Sjedili su na terasama, ispijali piće i čavrljali. Iako ne razumijem hrvatski jezik, na trenutak
sam se zaustavila kako bih poslušala ugodan zvuk čavrljanja.
Ljudi izgledaju opušteno i prijateljski nastrojeni.
It is lightly drizzling on the evening that I arrive in Rijeka, yet the
locals don’t seem concerned. They are sitting on terraces, enjoying
drinks and chatting. Even though I do not understand the Croatian
language, I pause for a moment to listen to the pleasant-sounding
chatter. The people seem relaxed and friendly
U Rijeci se izmijenilo bezbroj vlada i sustava vladanja. Samo u
20. stoljeću ovaj je grad obilježilo šest velikih promjena. Mještani nisu samo morali mijenjati svoje putovnice više puta, nego su
i odrastali uz neprekidno mijenjanje naziva ulica pa su se za susrete dogovarali ne u određenoj ulici, već „na fontani“ ili „u kafiću Lav“ ili „na mostu“.
Rijeka has experienced countless shifts of power and governing systems. In the 20th century alone, there were six major changes. The
locals have not only had to change their passports several times,
they’ve also grown weary of the ever-changing street names, favouring instead to arrange meetings “near the fountain” or “at the lion
café” or “by the bridge”.
Morčić i Riječanke
Morčić and the women of Rijeka
Izgleda kao da stalna promjena režima nije utjecala na otpornost stanovnika ovoga grada, već ih je možda i osnažila. Rijeka je
stoljećima bila poznata kao grad snažnih žena. Na Mljekarskom
trgu nalazi se spomenik posvećen običnoj mljekarici s Grobnika
The continual change of regimes does not seem to have affected
the resilience of the city’s inhabitants, and perhaps has even strengthened it. For centuries, Rijeka has been known as a city of strong
women. In Dairy Square, a monument honours a simple milkmaid
OUTLOOK / TRAVEL
OUTLOOK / TRAVEL
servant wearing a turban, and concludes with the
Halubajski zvončari or bell-ringers who herald the arrival
of spring.
Shark on a plate
Having seen various Old Town sites (all of which are
designated with QR codes) and the city’s opulent
theatre – where opera and ballet performances are also
held – we proceed to the market. This colourful place
brightly demonstrates the city’s bustling character and
quality of life. The counters are full of fresh, seasonal
products and healthy Mediterranean seafood.
Across from the fish market – where activity begins
in the early morning and where each daily catch is
accompanied by clear information about when it
was caught and how long it should be stored – is the
popular Fiume seafood restaurant, where the daily
catch can be tasted. When I head there for lunch at
the suggestion of my guide, a queue has formed and
TEXT BY ELINA RUKA
PHOTOS COURTESY OF RIJEKA TOURIST BOARD AND CROATIAN NATIONAL TOURIST BOARD
Adriatic
princess
The best impressions of a place
are made by its people. A few days
spent in Rijeka and its surrounding
area convinced me that it is
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multi-faceted and friendly Croatian
port city, which usually serves as
a starting point for travel to the
rest of the country, as well as to
neighbouring Italy and Slovenia.
Baltic Outlook explores this modest
jewel on the Adriatic Coast
It
is lightly drizzling on the evening that I arrive in
Rijeka, yet the locals don’t seem concerned. They
are sitting on terraces, enjoying drinks and chatting.
Even though I do not understand the Croatian
language, I pause for a moment to listen to the
pleasant-sounding chatter. The people seem relaxed
and friendly. My feelings are confirmed the following
morning by tour guide Sandra Bandera, who describes
the city’s popular Korzo Street as a living room, because
it always has an agreeable ambience. Sandra leads
me through the Old Town, occasionally stopping to
greet someone and gesturing demonstratively in a
flamboyant, Italian manner at every step.
Rijeka has experienced countless shifts of power
and governing systems. In the 20th century alone,
there were six major changes. The locals have not only
had to change their passports several times, they’ve
Fly to Rijeka
with airBaltic
from
1!"
ONE
WAY
also grown weary of the ever-changing street names,
favouring instead to arrange meetings “near the
fountain” or “at the lion café” or “by the bridge”.
Morčić and the women of Rijeka
The continual change of regimes does not seem to
have affected the resilience of the city’s inhabitants,
and perhaps has even strengthened it. For centuries,
Rijeka has been known as a city of strong women. In
Dairy Square, a monument honours a simple milkmaid
from Grobnik – hunched over, dressed in black, with
a heavy load on her back, she awoke at 2:30 AM every
morning to milk the cows and provide fresh milk for
the city dwellers. Grobnik is still famous for its cheese,
known as grobnički sir.
However, the city’s most famous woman is Karolina
of Rijeka, who saved the city from destruction during
60 / AIRBALTIC.COM
Fotografija / Photo: TZ Rijeka - Rijeka Tourist Board
the Napoleonic Wars (1803-1815) and successfully
used her beauty to charm British admiral John Leard
while negotiating with him. A feature film and a play
are devoted to this local heroine. The only remaining
evidence of events from that period is a cannonball
stuck in the wall of St. Vitus Cathedral. Next to the
cathedral is a bar, while on the hill behind the cathedral
is a jail, reminding locals that in life, these two places
are separated by mere footsteps.
Disregarding the possibility of such an unenviable
outcome, Rijekians are true lovers of life. Their most
important tradition, observed for over a hundred
years, is the annual carnival. It takes place during the
winter or, as the locals say, during Rijeka’s fifth season,
and its motto is “Be what you want to be”. It has been
recognized as the 3rd largest carnival in the world. The
parade is led by the city symbol Morčić, a young black
people are even willing to sit outside on the terrace
in cool, 10-degree weather to enjoy a hearty meal.
A ship’s captain named Danilo Grgic, who visits the
restaurant every single day he is on land, strikes up
a conversation. Over coffee, he tells me that in a few
days, he will again travel around the world, that he
has been in the Latvian port Ventspils a few times
and that once, he narrowly escaped pirates by paying
the demanded ransom. And I thought the biggest
BALTIC OUTLOOK / APRIL 2013 / 61
83
- pogrbljena, odjevena u crno, s teškim teretom na leđima budila se svakog jutra u 2:30 kako bi pomuzla krave i donijela svježe
mlijeko gradskom stanovništvu. Grobnik je i danas poznat po
svom grobničkom siru.
from Grobnik – hunched over, dressed in black, with a heavy load on
her back, she awoke at 2:30 AM every morning to milk the cows and
provide fresh milk for the city dwellers. Grobnik is still famous for its
cheese, known as grobnicki sir.
Karneval
Carnival
Ako zanemarimo mogućnost takvog nezavidnog ishoda, Riječani
su pravi zaljubljenici u život. Njihov najvažniji tradicionalni događaj je već stotinama godina godišnji karneval. Održava se zimi
ili, kako mještani kažu, tijekom riječkog petog godišnjeg doba, a
slogan mu je "Budi što želiš". Priznat je kao treći najveći karneval
na svijetu. Povorka počinje izlaskom gradskog simbola Morčića,
mladog crnog sluge s turbanom na glavi, a završava Halubjanskim zvončarima, vjesnicima proljeća.
Disregarding the possibility of such an unenviable outcome, Rijekians are true lovers of life. Their most important tradition, observed
for over a hundred years, is the annual carnival. It takes place during thewinter or, as the locals say, during Rijeka’s fifth season, and
its motto is “Be what you want to be”. It has been recognized as the
3rd largest carnival in the world. The parade is led by the city symbol Morcic, a young black servant wearing a turban, and concludes
with the Halubajski zvoncari or bell-ringers who herald the arrival of
spring.
Šarenilo luke
Moguće je da želja Riječana za putovanjem proizlazi upravo
iz njene neprestano aktivne luke čija je povijest zaista šarolika. Tijekom 19. stoljeća riječka luka je bila važnija čak i od
Venecije, a imala je i poznato brodogradilište. Od 1903. putnički su brodovi redovno plovili od Rijeke prema New Yorku,
prevozeći tisuće europskih imigranata koji su svoj novi život
željeli započeti u SAD -u. Zanimljivo je da se u Povijesnom i
pomorskom muzeju Hrvatskog primorja Rijeka nalazi jedini
preostali prsluk za spašavanje u Europi s olupine Titanica.
Donio ga je Josip Car, zaposlenik Carpathie, broda koji je prvi
stigao na mjesto nesreće te koji je spasio sve preživjele putnike nesretnog broda.
adventure of the day would be the shark that I ate
for lunch!
Patchwork port
It’s possible that wanderlust of the inhabitants of Rijeka
has been shaped by the presence of it always-active port,
which has a colourful history. During the 19th century,
Rijeka was a significant port of trade, even surpassing
Venice, and had a renowned shipyard. Beginning in
1903, passenger ships made regular trips from Rijeka
to New York, transporting thousands of European
immigrants determined to start a new life in the USA.
Interestingly, Rijeka’s Maritime and History Museum
houses the only life jacket from the wreck of the Titanic
in Europe. It was brought there by Josip Car, who worked
on the Carpathia, which was the first ship to reach the
scene of the disaster and which rescued all surviving
passengers of the ill-fated ship.
OUTLOOK / TRAVEL
In the early 1990s, industry collapsed and now,
before Rijeka has implemented new development
plans, the neglected but strangely appealing industrial
zone near the port continues to form part of the
city’s face. Through the practical travellers’ network
www.couchsurfing.com, I meet Sanja, a teacher who
has chosen to work as a tour guide in Dalmatia this
season. She agrees to show me this industrial region,
which she has loved since her days as a student, when
she went there to read books, eat the popular börek pie
filled with meat, cheese or spinach, and dream about
life. First, she brings me to her favourite haunt, the
Cukarikafe, whose playful décor highlights the Rijekan’s
love for socialising.
We proceed to a former paper mill that was founded
in 1821. Formerly known as Hartera (the name of
its owner), it was, for its time, an especially modern
factory that used old clothing as raw material. Hartera
produced 6% of the world’s tobacco paper and
employed many locals. In appreciation for their work,
the factory executives set up a dance hall, a singing
stage and living quarters for their employees. Today,
part of the territory of the former mill, which was in
operation until 2000, is used by a water bottling plant.
During the summer, the premises host the popular
Hartera urban music festival. In honour of the factory’s
150th anniversary, a fountain created of two millstones
was erected in Kobler Square in 1971.
I discover the patchwork of the port in both
the popular two-kilometre-long promenade by
the seacoast, which reveals the city’s 19th-century
architecture, as well as in the area of the port that
features old warehouses, cranes and modern cargo
containers. As the setting sun bathes me in a reddish
light, I dream of summer and sailing, or sunbathing on
one of Rijeka’s beaches. The port has allowed Rijekians
to grow accustomed to the diversity of humans, both
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in terms of nationalities and personalities. Their blood
flows with a cosmopolitan attitude and the ability to
appreciate what they have, as well as a loyalty to their
place and the tendency to preserve family ties.
Diversity of Krk Island
When heading to Rijeka, the first stop will inevitably be
Krk Island, because the airport is located at the island’s
north end. Therefore, the island can serve as either the
running start of a trip or the finishing touch to wrap up
a holiday. While it can’t quite be considered a stroke of
luck, my trip to Krk Island coincided with a day when
the region was swept by a gale known as the Bura
wind. It can be so powerful that the 1430-metre-long
bridge that connects the mainland with the island
must be closed. Then the only form of transportation
allowed to cross is an emergency services vehicle that
weighs two tonnes. Nikola Špehar, the guide who
accompanies me to Krk, explains that the locals have
a saying – once the Bura has blown three times, winter
will come to an end.
Krk Island has a rich history as the former seat
of the Frankopan family – a powerful dynasty of
Croatian nobles who built many of the forts, churches
and monasteries that dot the region. An interesting
testimony to the past is the Glagolitic script that took
root on the island and is still found on the inscriptions
of some buildings and road markings. Over a thousand
years old, this writing offers
ff a dose of the exotic, as its
symbols are similar to some objects found in nature,
such as a mushroom or an hourglass.
When Joseph Klabučaricki, a royal cartographer
in the Vienna court, drew Krk Island, he highlighted
his birth town with the biggest letters, creating the
incorrect impression that the town was the largest on
the island. Today’s map of the island would highlight
its traditions, culinary delights, wonderful beaches and
recreational areas. Every inlet is home to countless
boats and yachts, while piles of limestone shaped into
border fences remind one how difficult it must have
been to free this land up for farming. Nowadays, the
revived cultivation of olive trees ensures the production
of the highest quality olive oil. Finally, Klimno Bay is
famous for a particular type of healing mud that is used
for curing gout.
Every town and village on the island is full of life.
The Franciscan monastery, which houses a notable
library and – together with the church of Our Lady
of the Assumption – makes up an ethnographic
museum, is located in Punat. Baška is renowned for
its marvellous beaches. Vrbnik will likely be fancied
by wine connoisseurs, as this is where the region’s
unique Žlahtina grapes are grown. This variety came
to the island of Krk in the 1880s and to the Vrbnik
AGRICULTURE IN LATVIA
Investments
&
Development
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The best view over Trsat Castle
It’s possible that wanderlust of the inhabitants of Rijeka has been
shaped by the presence of it always-active port, which has a colourful
history. During the 19th century, Rijeka was a significant port of trade, even surpassing Venice, and had a renowned shipyard. Beginning
in 1903, passenger ships made regular trips from Rijeka to New York,
transporting thousands of European immigrants determined to start
a new life in the USA. Interestingly, Rijeka’s Maritime and History
Museum houses the only life jacket from the wreck of the Titanic in
Europe. It was brought there by Josip Car, who worked on the Carpathia, which was the first ship to reach the scene of the disaster and
which rescued all surviving passengers of the ill-fated ship.
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OUTLOOK / TRAVEL
Patchwork port
Riječkom okolicom
na dva kotača
A
rt
ouch
of
Tema broja
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