6 9km 8 10 9 20km 16km 2 1 3 4 Berane - kulturna ruta 4km 7 5 1. Glavna ulica 2. Stari grad 3. Polimski muzej 4. Kuća vojvode Gavra Vukovića 5. Manastir Đurđevi Stupovi 6. Spomenik na Jasikovcu 7. Manastir Šudikova 8. Manastir u Kaludri 9. Džamija u Petnjici 10. Petnjički kraj Glavna ulica Najbolji način da upoznate grad je da, kao i svaki pravi Beranac, prošetate predveče čuvenim beranskim korzom. Prostrana i neuobičajeno široka, glavna ulica bila je i ostala središte svih zbivanja. Projektovao ju je turski arhitekta Rizvan beg, tek svršeni student arhitekture sa Sorbone, po ugledu na pariske bulevare. Ovdje je otvorena prva apoteka, prva benzinska pumpa, prvi hoteli i hanovi. Tu su se nalazile najbolje pekare i ćevabdžinice, nekoliko kafana i brojne zanatske radnje. I danas je glavna ulica poznata po mjestima gdje možete da uživate u tradicionalnim specijalitetima: bureku, pastrmci sa roštilja, slatkom kačamaku, ali i u poznatom beranskom gostoprimstvu. Stari grad Ovdje, na širokom platou tik uz glavnu ulicu, nekada se nalazio begluk – glavni gradski trg i pijaca. Tu su se prodavale razne vrste žitarica, mlijeko, voće i povrće, a u okolnim dućanima mogli su se kupiti različiti manufakturni proizvodi. U blizini su se nalazili hanovi gdje su trgovci uz kafu ugovorali poslove. Na zapadnoj strani begluka, 1883. godine, podignuta je vakufska kuća, spoj tradiconalne i orijentalne arhitekture, sa pet drvenih stubova i dva polukružna drvena luka u prizemlju. Sastavni dio vakufske kuće bile su čuvene gradske česme zbog kojih je i bila poznatija kao „kuća kod česama“. Do njih je voda dolazila bukovim čunkovima sa manastirskog vrela kod Đurđevih Stupova. Bio je to prvi gradski vodovod dugačak 2 km. Polimski muzej Preko 9000 eksponata iz arheološke, etnografske, numizmatičke, heraldičke, prirodnjačke i umjetničke zbirke Polimskog muzeja otkriće vam kako je izgledao život u Polimlju od praistorije do današnjih dana. Alatke od jelenskih Adresa: Mojsija Zečevića 8 Tel./Faks: + 382 (0) 51 236 664 Email: toberane@t-com.me Web: www.berane.travel Hotel S *** Mitropolita Pajsije bb Tel: +382 (0) 51 232 031 / +382 (0) 69 085 167 E-mail: drvoprex@t-com.me Restorani nacionalne kuhinje Restoran Etna - Polimska 71 Tel. +382 (0) 51 233 776 Restoran Ambiente - Mojsije Zečevića bb Tel. +382 (0) 68 527 056 E-mail: ambiente.berane@gmail.com Restoran Dva jelena - Svetosavska bb Tel: +382 (0) 67 853 693 www.bonvivan.me Kako stići - Transport Vojvoda Gavro Vuković (Lijeva Rijeka, 1852 – Berane, 1928) bio je dugogodišnji ministar spoljnih poslova Crne Gore i utemeljivač moderne crnogorske diplomatije. Sin poznatog cmogorskog glavara Miljana Vukova Vešovića, bio je prvi školovani pravnik u Crnoj Gori. Uspješno je vodio crnogorsku diplomatiju u teškim pregovorima o razgraničenju sa Osmanskim carstvom. Iza sebe je ostavio preko hiljadu strana „Memoara“ u kojima je napravio prikaz spoljne politike Crne Gore sa kraja 19. i početka 20. Vijeka. U prizemlju spomen kuće vojvode Gavra Vukovića nalazi se radna soba sa bibliotekom, u kojoj se čuvaju njegove lične stvari i brojni rukopisi. Manastir Đurđevi Stupovi Manastir Đurđevi Stupovi jedan je od najznačajnijih i najstarijih manastira u Polimlju. Podignut 1213. godine kao zadužbina župana Stefana Prvoslava, u njemu je Sveti Sava uspostavio budimljansku episkopiju. Uprkos činjenici da je pet puta paljen i razaran, manastir je uspio da se održi, ostajući centar duhovnog i političkog života pravoslavnog stanovništva za vrijeme turske vlasti. Za freske Đurđevih Stupova kažu da su „u ljutim ranama“ jer je najveći broj prvobitnog freskopisa iz 14. vijeka stradao u čestim napadima na manastir. Na onome što je ostalo prepoznaje se ruka darovitih dečanskih majstora. Jednobrodna crkva posvećena Svetom velikomučeniku Georgiju pripada arhitekturi kakva se do tada razvijala u primorju u 11. i 12. vijeku. Nalazite se u Beranama, gradu na Limu okruženom obroncima visokih planina sa bajkovitim ledničkim jezerima. I dok uživate u svježem vazduhu i idiličnim planinskim prizorima, ne zaboravite da se nalazite u kulturnom središtu Polimlja naseljenom još od praistorije. Hoteli Lukas Hotel *** Milorada Jovančevića bb Tel. +382 (0) 78 108 142 / +382 (0) 67 611 766 E-mail: lukascg@t-com.me Kuća Gavra Vukovića Dobro došli! Turistička organizacija Berane Hotel “IL SOLE” **** Tel: +382 51 231270 / Fax: +382 51 231 320 E-mail: hotelilsole@t-com.me Polimska 71, Berane rogova, ogrlica od vučjih očnjaka, ukrasi od ćilibara i unikatna pancirna košulja iz krstaških ratova, samo su dio bogate arheološke zbirke koja prati razvoj ovog kraja još od mezolita. Nošnje, nakiti i predmeti za svakodnevnu upotrebu čine srž etnografske zbirke koja najbolje ilustruje kako su izgledali i kako su živjeli stanovnici ovih krajeva. Prenoćište Vidikovac *** Dušana Vujoševića 1 Tel: +382(0) 51 233 971 Motel Buče Buče Tel. +382 (0) 78 104 410 +382 (0) 67 416 395 Hotel Pešić Jelovica b.b Tel: +382 (0) 69 042 522 +382 (0) 67 535 753 Slatki kačamak Kačamak je tradicionalno jelo od pšeničnog i kukruznog brašna, karakteristično za mnoge planinske krajeve. Slatki kačamak, je slatkiš koji možete da nađete samo u Beranama! Zato ne propustite priliku da probate ovaj specijalitet od šampite i sladoleda koji možete da nađete u mnogim beranskim poslastičarnicama. Avio transport: najbliži aerodrom je u Podgorici (150 km) Voz: Željeznička stanica u Bijelom Polju (35 km), www.zcg-prevoz.me Autobus: dobro povezan autobuskim linijama sa svim gradovima u regionu. Autobuska stanica Berane +382 (0) 51 234 828 Automobil: Magistralnim putem od Podgorice (144 km), od Bijelog Polja (35 km), od Beograda (350 km), od Nacionalnog parka Biogradska gora (70 km), od Nacionalnog parka Prokletije (50 km) Kulturna ruta Berana vodi vas do najzanimljivijih mjesta u gradu, na kojima ćete otkriti kako se nekada živjelo na begluku, kako je preživio manastir koji je pet puta paljen i obnavljan, zašto treba da napravite par krugova beranskim korzom, kako je izgledala pancirna košulja iz doba krstaških ratova, i gdje je to sakrivena pećina sa blagom. Moći ćete da vidite i kako izgleda jedina trospratna džamija u Crnoj Gori i pročitate istoriju Polimlja ispisanu na 40 granitnih blokova. ZAKORAČITE U ISTORIJU BERANA! Više informacija o kulturnoj ruti i pomoć u organizaciji ture možete dobiti u Turističkoj organizaciji Berane Radno vrijeme: radnim danima: 08h do 16h Adresa: Mojsija Zečevića 8 Tel/fax: +382 (0) 51 236 664 Email: toberane@t-com.me Web: www.berane.travel Spomenik Slobode na Jasikovcu Najljepši pogled na grad pruža se sa brda Jasikovac, omiljenog izletišta Beranaca koje se nalazi na samo kilometar od centra grada. Tu su Turci posle boja na Rudešu 1862. godine podigli svoje vojno utvrđenje i sa njega kontrolisali okolno stanovništvo. Danas se na Jasikovcu nalazi spomenik Slobode posvećen žrtvama oslobodilačkih ratova. Ovaj neobični spomenik visok 18 metara, okružen je sa 40 granitnih blokova na kojima je sa više od 10.000 slova ispisana istorija Polimlja. Manastir Šudikova Idilični pejzaži Tifranske klisure skrivaju jedan od najznačajnijih manastira u ovom dijelu Polimlja. Vjekovima je manastir Šudikova bio važan duhovni i kulturni centar sa poznatom spisateljskom i freskopisačkom školom iz koje je potekao i čuveni zograf pop Strahinja Budimljanin. Turski osvajači zapalili su manastir 1738. godine, a njegovo obnavljanje započelo je 2005. godine. U blizini manastira nalazi se izvor nazvan Sveto vrelo koji se i po nekoliko puta dnevno pojavi i nestane pod zemljom. Legenda kaže da je ova ljekovita voda pomogla i oslijepjelom kralju Stefanu Dečanskom. Nedaleko od manastira u Tifranskoj klisuri, nalazi se spomenik kralju Aleksandru Karađorđeviću podignut 1929. godine. Manastir Kaludra Na devetom kilometru od Berana, u selu Kaludra, okružen bogatim šumama i visokim planinama, nalazi se manastir Svetog Luke. Podignut u 14. vijeku, za vrijeme Nemanjića, vjeruje se Nastanak grada Temelje varoši Berana postavio je Mehmed beg Bahtijarević-Jajčanin vojni zapovjednik i gradski kajmakam. Posle bitke na Rudešu 1862. godine, turska vojska podigla je utvrđenje na Jasikovcu, a potom i drveni most na Limu i kasarne i konjušnice na lijevoj obali rijeke, na mjestu gdje se danas nalazi bolnica. Dolaskom zanatlija i trgovaca iz Bijelog Polja, Nikšića, Peći i drugih krajeva Crne Gore, naselje se brzo i stihijski širilo. Mehmed beg Jajčanin i sam je uticao na uređenje i razvoj grada odredivši pravce i širine ulica. Kada je umro 1896. godine, na njegovoj dženazi – poslednjem ispraćaju, po prvi put su prisutvovali stanovnici obje vjeroispovijesti. Beranski korzo Kažu da je beranski korzo star koliko i sam grad. Neuobičajeno široka glavna ulica kao stvorena je da se njom prošetaju, naprave nekoliko krugova, „vide i budu viđeni“, za tu priliku dotjerani šetači. Tradicionalno su sredinom ulice šetali stariji, „ozbiljniji“ ljudi, sa desne mladi Beranci, a sa lijeve mladi iz okoline grada. Korzo je uvijek bio veoma važan dio gradskog života, pa se tako u periodu kada je glavna ulica bila otvorena za saobraćaj, sa jednom kolovoznom i dvije pješačke trake, od 17/18 do 22h ona zatvarala za saobraćaj i pretvrala u gradsko šetalište. Korzo se, kao i sam grad, vremenom mijenjao. Krajem 20 vijeka glavna ulica je popločana, a brojni kafići otvoreni sa obje strane ulice. Iako je sada prostor za šetnju smanjen, Beranci nisu napustili svoj korzo, samo su ga drugačije organizovali. Sada se od 18h do 21h ulicom šetaju stariji ljudi i roditelji sa djecom, a od 21h pa nadalje okupljaju se mladi. Ivangrad Nakon Drugog svjetskog rata, 1949. godine, Berane mijenja ime u Ivangrad, po narodnom heroju iz Crne Gore, Ivanu Milutinoviću. Istaknuti komunista i revolucionar Ivan Milutinović učestvovao je u organizovanju partizanskih odreda širom zemlje. Nakon 43 godine, referendumom je odlučeno da se gradu vrati stari naziv Berane. REGIONALNA RAZVOJNA AGENCIJA Bjelasica, Komovi & Prokletije Iako ne postoji obilježena biciklistička staza, čitavu trasu rute, moguće je obići planinskim biciklom. www.montenegro.travel da ga je freskopisao čuveni pop Strahinja iz Budimlja. Razoren je i zapustio u 17. vijeku u doba turske vladavine. Posle tri vijeka manastir je 2001. godine, obnovljen i oslikan. U blizini manastira nalaze se teško pristupačne pećine isposnice, u kojima su tokom srednjeg vijeka živjeli i pripremali se za monaški život kaluđeri isposnici. I danas se mogu prepoznati tragovi njihovog obitavanja kao što su sjedišta uklesana u stijeni. Džamija u Petnjici Jedina trospratna džamija u regionu nalazi se u Petnjici. Na dvadesetak kilometara od Berana, naići ćete na jednu od najvećih džamija na Balkanu, jedinstvene arhitekture sa drvenim, ručno rezbarenim stubovima. Podignuta kao mala seoska džamija, više puta je dograđivana i obnavljana prilozima građana, da bi sa sadašnjom površinom od 550m2 mogla da primi i do 1200 vjernika. U narodu postoji predanje da je kamen za njenu izgradnju donešen sa džamije koja se nalazila u srednjevjekovnom utvrđenju Bihor. Petnjički kraj Na 700 metara nadmorske visine, u dolini rijeke Popče, nalazi se varoš Petnjica, središte Gornjeg Bihora. Petnjički kraj poznat je po jabukama i izvorskoj vodi, a najviše po bogatoj istoriji. Naseljen još u bronzanom dobu, na arheološkom lokalitetu Torine čuva ostatke jedne od najznačajnijih eneolitskih kultura u Crnoj Gori. Tu je pronađena i jedinstvena ženska figurina stara 5000 godina. Na brdu Gradina nalaze se ostaci srednjevjekovnog grada Bihora, koji je tokom srednjeg vijeka i turske vladavine dominirao ovim dijelom Polimlja. Za ovaj kraj vezane su i mnoge legende, a najzanimljivija je ona o Brativiru, vodopadu neizmjerne ljepote, iza koga kažu da se krije pećina sa blagom. 6 9km 8 10 9 20km 16km 2 1 3 4 Berane - Cultural Route 4km 7 5 1. The Main Street 2. The old town 3. Museum of the Polimlje Region 4. Gavro Vuković’s house 5. Đurđevi Stupovi Monastery 6. The Monument to Liberty in Jasikovac 7. Šudikova Monastery 8. Kaludra Monastery 9. The Mosque in Petnjica 10. The Region of Petnjica The Main Street The best way to explore the town is to take an evening walk along the famous promenade, like any true resident of Berane. The spacious and unusually wide main street was, and still is today, the centre of all events. It was designed by the Turkish architect Rizvan-bey. Having just graduated from the University of Sorbonne, he modelled the promenade on Parisian boulevards. This street was the place where the first pharmacy was opened, the first petrol station, as well as the first hotels and inns. The main street included the best bakeries and grill houses, a few cafés and a number of craft shops. Nowadays, the main street is a well-known place for enjoying traditional specialities: burek, grilled trout, sweet kačamak (cornmeal mash), and the hospitality of the people of Berane. The old town A long time ago, the beyluk, the main town square and market, was located on a wide plateau near the main street. It was the place where merchants used to sell different types of cereals, milk, fruits and vegetables, and in nearby shops they displayed various manufactured goods. Just across the street, inside the inns, merchants would sit and make business deals. In 1883, on the west side of the beyluk, a waqf (endowment) house was built. It was a blend of traditional and Middle-Eastern architecture, with five wooden pillars and two semicircular wooden arches on the ground plan. The two famous city fountains were an integral part of the waqf house, which led to it being known as the “house beside the drinking fountains”. The drinking fountains were filled from water from the monastery’s spring which was transferred through beech pipes. It was the first twokilometre-long town water supply system. Museum of the Polimlje Region Over 9,000 exhibits from the archaeological, ethnographic, numismatic, heraldic, natural history and art collections of the museum will reveal what life was like in Polimlje from prehistory to the present day. Tools Address: Mojsija Zečevića 8 Tel/Fax: + 382 (0) 51 236 664 E-mail: toberane@t-com.me Web: www.berane.travel Hotel S *** Mitropolita Pajsije bb Tel: +382 (0) 51 232 031 / +382 (0) 69 085 167 E-mail: drvoprex@t-com.me National Cuisine Restaurants Etna Restaurant - Polimska 71 Tel. +382 (0) 51 233 776 Ambiente Restaurant - Mojsije Zečevića bb Tel. +382 (0) 68 527 056 E-mail: ambiente.berane@gmail.com Dva jelena Restaurant - Svetosavska bb Tel: +382 (0) 67 853 693 www.bonvivan.me How to Get There – Transport Air: the closest airport is in Podgorica (150 km) Duke Gavro Vukovic (Lijeva Rijeka, b.1852, d. Berane, 1928) was the long-time Minister of Foreign Affairs of Montenegro and the founder of Montenegrin modern diplomacy. He was the son of the famous Montenegrin official Miljan Vukov Vešović and the first trained lawyer in Montenegro. He successfully led Montenegrin diplomacy during difficult negotiations on determining the borders of the Ottoman Empire. Gavro Vuković left a legacy of thousands of pages of his “Memoirs” which are a showcase of Montenegrin foreign policy from the late 19th century and the early years of the 20th century. On the ground floor of the Gavro Vuković Memorial House there is a study with a library which houses his personal belongings and numerous manuscripts. Đurđevi Stupovi Monastery Djurdjevi Stupovi Monastery is one of the most important and oldest monasteries in Polimlje. It was built in 1213 as an endowment of Prince Stefan Prvoslav and in this monastery, St. Sava established the Episcopacy of Budimlje. Despite the fact it was burned down and destroyed five times, the monastery was able to remain the centre of the spiritual and political life of the Orthodox population during Ottoman rule. The frescoes in the monastery are in bad condition because most of the original frescoes from the 14th century suffered during frequent attacks on the monastery. It is easy to detect the workmanship of master craftsmen from Dečani. The architecture of the single-nave church dedicated to St. George the Great-Martyr is the same as the architecture that was developing on the coast during the 11th and 12th centuries. You are in Berane, a town on the River Lim, surrounded by high mountain slopes, with fabulous glacial lakes. And while you are enjoying the fresh air and idyllic mountain scenery, do not forget that you are also in the cultural centre of the Polimlje region, inhabited since prehistoric times. Hotels Lukas Hotel *** Milorada Jovančevića bb Tel. +382 (0) 78 108 142 / +382 (0) 67 611 766 E-mail: lukascg@t-com.me Gavro Vuković’s house Welcome! Berane Tourist Organization Hotel “IL SOLE” **** Tel: +382 51 231270 / Fax: +382 51 231 320 E-mail: hotelilsole@t-com.me Polimska 71, Berane made from antlers, a necklace made from wolf fangs, amber ornaments and a unique sleeveless coat of mail from the time of the Crusades are only part of the rich archaeological collection, which follows the development of this region since the Mesolithic Era. Costumes, jewellery and items for everyday use are the core of the ethnographic collection that illustrates what the inhabitants of this area looked like and how they lived. Bed and Breakfast Vidikovac *** Dušana Vujoševića 1 Tel: +382(0) 51 233 971 Motel Buče Buče Tel. +382 (0) 78 104 410 +382 (0) 67 416 395 Hotel Pešić Jelovica b.b Tel: +382 (0) 69 042 522 +382 (0) 67 535 753 Sweet kačamak Kačamak is a traditional dish made of wheat and corn flour, typical of many mountain regions. Sweet kačamak is a delicacy that can be found only in Berane! So do not miss the opportunity to try this speciality of cream and ice cream which you can find in many cake shops in Berane. Rail: Bijelo Polje Railway Station (35 km), www.zcg-prevoz.me Bus: well connected by bus routes from all the towns in the region Berane Bus Station +382 (0) 51 234 828 Car: accessible by major roads from Podgorica (144 km), Bijelo Polje (35 km), Belgrade (350 km), Biogradska Gora National Park (70 km), Prokletije National Park (50 km) The cultural route of Berane takes you to the most interesting places in the town, where you will discover how people used to live at the beyluk, how the monastery managed to survive, having been razed and rebuilt five times, why you need to make a few laps along the Berane Promenade, what a suit of mail from the time of the Crusades looks like, and where a treasure cave is hidden. You will be able to see the only three-storey mosque in Montenegro and read the history of the Polimlje region written on 40 granite slabs. STEP INTO THE HISTORY OF BERANE More information about the cultural route and assistance in organizing tours are available at: Berane Tourist Organization Opening hours: Monday to Friday from 08:00 to 16:00 Address: Mojsija Zečevića 8 Tel/Fax: + 382 (0) 51 236 664 E-mail: toberane@t-com.me Web: www.berane.travel The Monument to Liberty in Jasikovac The most beautiful view of the town is from Jasikovac Hill, a favourite picnic spot for the inhabitants of Berane. It is located just one kilometre from the town centre. It was the place where the Ottomans built their military fortification after the battle in Rudeš in 1862. From that point they controlled the local population. Nowadays, instead of a military fortification, there is a monument dedicated to the victims of the struggles for liberation. This unusual eighteen-metre-tall monument is surrounded by 40 granite blocks where the history of the Polimlje region is written in 10,000 letters. Šudikova Monastery The idyllic landscape of the Tifran Gorge hides one of the most important monasteries in this part of Polimlje. For centuries, Šudikova Monastery was an important spiritual and cultural centre with a well-known scriveners’ school and fresco-painting school. The famous painter and priest Strahinja of Budimlje attended this school. Ottoman invaders razed the monastery in 1738, and rebuilding work began in 2005. Near the monastery there is a spring called the Sacred Spring which appears and disappears underground several times a day. Legend says that this healing water healed the blind King Stefan of Dečani. Not far from the monastery in the Tifran Gorge, there is a monument dedicated to King Aleksandar Karadjordjević that was built in 1929. Kaludra Monastery About nine kilometres from Berane, in the village of Kaludra, is the Monastery of St. Luke, surrounded by dense forests and high mountains. It was built in the 14th century during the rule of the Nemanjić dynasty. It is believed that the famous painter, Priest Strahinja from Budimlje, painted all of the frescoes in The Founding of the City The foundations of the town of Berane were laid by Mehmed-bey Bahtijarević-Jajcanin, the military chief and city sub-governor. After the Battle of Rudeš in 1862, the Ottoman army erected a fortification at Jasikovac, and then a wooden bridge over the River Lim, and barracks and stables on the left bank of the river, on the site of the present-day hospital. The military and administrative authorities were established as well as the District of Berane within the Skadar Sandzak. With the arrival of craftsmen and traders from Bijelo Polje, Niksic, Pec and other parts of Montenegro, the settlement spread quickly and chaotically. Mehmed-bey Jajcanin himself influenced the planning and development of the town, assigning the road layout and street widths. When he died in 1896, for the first time, residents of both religions were present at his funeral – to give their last farewell. The Promenade People say that Berane’s promenade is old as the city itself. An unusually broad main street, as if made for walking, with walkers completing a few laps, to “see and be seen” and share all essential and non-essential news, groomed for the occasion. The promenade had its own peculiarities. Traditionally, the middle of the street is the part for older, “more serious” people, with the young people of Berane on the right side, and on the left side, young people from the surrounding villages. Every group had its own section of the street, some of them gathered at kiosks and others at shops, and so on, all along the main street. Many love stories began on the promenade because it used to be the only place where young people could go out and meet each other. The promenade has always been an important part of town life, and this was also true in the period when the main street was open to traffic, with one lane for traffic and two for pedestrians. Between 5 or 6 pm and 10 pm it was closed to traffic and that was when it became the town promenade. The promenade, like the city itself, has changed over time. At the end of the 20th century the main street was paved, and many outdoor cafes were opened on either side of the street. Although the space for walking is reduced now, the people of Berane have not forgotten the promenade – they have just organized it differently. Now, between 6 pm and 9 pm it is occupied by older people and parents with children, and from 9 pm young people gather there and walk along the promenade. Ivangrad REGIONALNA RAZVOJNA AGENCIJA Bjelasica, Komovi & Prokletije Although there is no marked bicycle path, the entire route can be visited on mountain bike. www.montenegro.travel the monastery. It was neglected and destroyed during Ottoman rule in the 17th century. In 2001, after three centuries, the monastery was rebuilt and painted. Near the monastery and almost completely inaccessible are anchorites’ cells built into caves, in which, during the Middle Ages, monks lived and prepared themselves for an ascetic life. Even today, it is possible to see signs of their habitation in seats carved out of the rock. The Mosque in Petnjica The only three-storey mosque in the region is located in Petnjica. About twenty kilometers from Berane, you’ll find one of the largest mosques in the Balkans, unique in its architecture, made of wood, with hand-carved pillars. It was built as a small village mosque, but was repeatedly expanded and updated with the help of contributions from the local townspeople. With its present size of 550m2 it can accommodate up to 1,200 worshippers. Legend says that the stone for its construction was taken from the medieval fortress at Bihor. The Region of Petnjica The town of Petnjica is located in the valley of the River Popča, 700 metres above sea level, at the centre of the Gornji Bihor area. The region of Petnjica is famous for its apples and spring water, but most of all for its rich history. This area has been inhabited since the Bronze Age and at the archaeological site of Torine the remains of one of the most important Eneolithic cultures in Montenegro are preserved. A unique female figurine, 5000 years old, was found on this site. Gradina Hill holds the remains of the medieval city of Bihor, which dominated this part of Polimlje during the Middle Ages and Ottoman rule. There are many legends connected to this region, the most interesting one of which is to do with Brativir: a legend about a waterfall of extraordinary beauty behind which, they say, a cave full of treasure is hidden. Glavna ulica 6 9km 10 9 16km 2 1 3 Sve priče o životu i istoriji Berana počinju i završavaju se u glavnoj ulici. I njeno ime mijenjalo se u zavisnosti od istorijskih zbivanja i okolnosti. Tokom godina bila je: Glavna čaršija, ulica Kralja Nikole, ulica Kralja Petra Oslobodioca, ulica Kralja Aleksandra Ujedinitelja, Via Viktora Emanuela, Glavna Ulica, ulica Maršala Tita, da bi od 1994. do današnjih dana nosila ime Mojsija Zečevića. Potpuno neuobičajena za osmanlijsko gradsko uređenje, glavna ulica je prava i široka. Projektovao ju je, po ugledu na evropske metropole, Rizvan beg, čuveni arhitekta i pariski đak. Berane je tako dobilo najprostraniju i najširu ulicu među tadašnjim turskim gradskim naseobinama na ovom dijelu Balkana. Glavna ulica bila je i ostala centar svih dešavanja. Svako popodne, ona bi se pretvarala u najljepše i najveće gradsko šetalište – čuveni Beranski korzo. Sredinom korza šetali bi polagano stariji i ozbiljniji Beranci, razmatrajući kako najnovija svjetska dešavanja, tako i „povjerljive“ gradske priče. Sa strane su išli oni mlađi, koji bi se šetajući korzom i po prvi put zaljubljivali. Svako je imao svoje utvrđeno mjesto i niko nije htio da propusti da napravi par krugova, “vidi i bude viđen”. Čak i kada je glavna ulica bila All the stories about the life and history of Berane begin and finish in the main street. Its name has changed as well, depending on historical occurrences and circumstances. Over the years it has been called: Main District, King Nikola Street, King Petar the Liberator Street, King Aleksandar the Unifier Street, Via Viktora Emanuela, Main Street, Marshal Tito Street, and from 1994 to the present day it has been called Mojsija Zečevića Street. Rather unusually for Ottoman urban planning, the main street is straight and wide. Modelled on European metropolises, it was designed by Rizvan-Bey, a famous architect educated in Paris. In this way, Berane obtained the most spacious and widest street amongst the Ottoman urban settlements of that time in this part of the Balkans. The main street was and has remained to this day the centre of all events. Every afternoon, it would turn into the most beautiful and largest town pedestrian area – the famous promenade of Berane. Older and more reserved people from Berane would slowly stroll along the central line of the promenade, discussing both the latest world events and “confidential” town stories. Younger people walked along the 8 4 4km Berane - kulturna ruta 1. Glavna ulica 2. Stari grad 3. Polimski muzej 4. Kuća vojvode Gavra Vukovića 5. Manastir Đurđevi Stupovi 6. Spomenik na Jasikovcu 7. Manastir Šudikova 8. Manastir u Kaludri 9. Džamija u Petnjici 10. Petnjički kraj 7 5 rivalstvo sa bleh orkestrom iz Bijelog Polja. Takmičenja su se održavala u hotelu Evropa, a two World Wars, experienced a full blossoming. It is a period when the first tambura ensembles and Zaživjela je pozorišna scena na kojoj su amaterski ansambli izvodili djela Branislava Nušića i Koste Trifkovića. Tada su po prvi put u pozorištu zaigrale i djevojke. Značajnu ulogu u kulturnom životu imali su i čuveni beranski hoteli u kojima su održavane mnoge zabavne i kulturne večeri. Pred Drugi svjetski rat Berane je imalo više hotela nego što ih ima danas. otvorena za saobraćaj, ona bi se u popodnevnim časovima zatvarala i korzo bi neometano nastavljao da živi. Glavna ulica bila je i centar kulturnog života koji je, posebno u periodu između dva svjetska rata, doživio puni procvat. Naročito je bogat bio muzički život. To je period kada nastaju tamburaški zborovi i muzička društva, uvode se novi instrumenti i rađaju gradske pjesme. Čuven je bio beranski bleh orkestar i njegovo sides of the promenade and often while they were walking there, they would fall in love for the first time. Everyone had a regular spot and no one wanted to miss the chance to do a couple of laps, “to see and to be seen”. Even when the main street was open to traffic, it would be closed during the afternoon hours and the promenade would continue to live on undisturbed. The main street was also the centre of cultural life, which in particular in the period between uspješniji su najčešće bili Beranci. Novi kulturni sadržaji pojavili su se i sa otvaranjem Doma Trezvenosti. brass orchestra of Berane was famous, as indeed was its rivalry with the brass orchestra from Bijelo Polje. Competitions were held in the Evropa Hotel, and overall the orchestra from Berane was more successful. New cultural offerings came with the opening of the Sobriety Home. A theatrical stage on which amateur ensembles performed plays by Branislav Nušić and Kosta Trifković The Main Street i tu je, kažu, uvijek bila najbolja muzika. Odmah preko puta njega, sagrađen je hotel Imperijal, koji je tokom Drugog svjetskog rata pretvoren u oficirsku menzu italijanske vojske. Tada je, priča se, u Beranama bilo više italijanskih vojnika nego stanovnika. Prva tombola u gradu organizovana je u hotelu Amerika podignutom u samoj glavnoj ulici. Na najboljem glasu bio je hotel Evropa, koji se nalazio odmah pored Amerike. Tu je tradicionalno bila najbolja kuhinja, i svako od poznatih Beranaca imao je svoj sto. Vlasnici hotela Evropa svakom gostu koji tu prespava, poklanjali su po flašu domaće rakije koju su sami pravili. Na dnu glavne ulice nalazila su se i dva hana, u kojima su putnici mogli prespavati i odmoriti konje. U hanovima se, osim kafe i čaja, mogao popiti i salep, nadaleko poznat orijentalni afrodizijak. I danas se u glavnoj ulici nalaze brojni restorani, kafići i poslastičarnice. Dok šetate ovim čuvenim korzom, zastanite i probajte neki od poznatih beranskih specijaliteta: slatki kačamak, pastrmku sa roštilja, ili burek iz čuvenih beranskih buregdžinica. music societies were organised, new instruments were introduced and town songs were created. The REGIONALNA RAZVOJNA AGENCIJA Bjelasica, Komovi & Prokletije U samom centru postojala su 4 hotela i 2 hana. Prvo je podignut hotel Danilović, na mjestu sadašnje zgrade Osnovnog suda, started to develop. Then for the first time girls started to act in the theatre. The famous hotels of Berane in which many entertainment and cultural evenings were held also had an important role in the town’s cultural life. Just before World War II, Berane had more hotels than it has today. In the very centre there were four hotels and two inns. First the Danilović Hotel was built, on the location of the presentday building of the Basic Court of Berane, and there, it is said, the best music was always played. Just opposite it, the Imperijal Hotel, which during World War II was turned into the officers’ mess of the Italian army, was built. At that time, it is said, in Berane there were more Italian solders than local people. The first tombola in the town was organised in the Amerika Hotel, built right on the main street. However, the Evropa Hotel, which was situated just beside the Amerika Hotel, enjoyed the best reputation. Traditionally, its cuisine was the best, and all of the well-known people from Berane had their own table there. The owners of the Evropa Hotel used to give a bottle of home-made rakija (brandy), which they themselves made, to every guest who stayed the night there. At the bottom of the main street there were also two inns, in which travellers could stay the night and rest their horses. In the inns, apart from coffee and tea, salep, a widely known Middle-Eastern aphrodisiac could also be drunk. While you are walking along this famous promenade, stop off and try some of the well-known specialities of Berane such as sweet kačamak, grilled trout, or burek in the famous grill houses of Berane. Stari grad Nalazite se u središtu nekadašnjeg starog grada. Među hanovima, dućanima i zanatskim radnjama koje su krajem 19. vijeka počele nicati pored turskog vojničkog naselja zvanog „kršla“ nalazio se i begluk – glavni gradski trg i pijaca, smješten na širokom platou, tik uz glavnu ulicu. 10 9km 8 9 16km You are standing in the centre of the former old town. Amongst the inns, shops and craftsmen’s shops which at the end of the 19th century began to sprout up beside the Turkish military settlement called the “kršla”, there was also the beyluk – the main town square and a marketplace, situated on a broad plateau just beside the main street. 2 4 Berane - kulturna ruta vrijeme obavljala vjerska služba i bio je organizovan rad niže vjerske škole za djecu. On the western side of the beyluk in 1883 a waqf (religious endo-wment) house was built, and it was an example of a mixture of traditional and Oriental architecture styles, with five wooden pillars and two semicircular wooden arches in the ground-floor section. The waqf house is the endowment of Ahmed-hamdi Pasha, the mutefik, or supervisor, of Berane, who dedicated it to his only son who 1 3 7 Na zapadnoj strani begluka 1883. godine podignuta je vakufska kuća, primjer spoja tradiconalne i orijentalne arhitekture, sa pet drvenih stubova i dva polukružna drvena luka u prizemnom dijelu. Vakufska kuća je zadužbina Ahmed-hamdi paše, beranskog mufetiša – nadzornika, koji ju je posvetio svom rano preminulom sinu jedincu. Krajem 19. vijeka, ovdje je bilo sjedište državne pošte. U vakufskoj kući se jedno 6 Vakufska kuća je u narodu bila poznata i kao “kuća kod česama”. Sastavni dio kuće bile su česme koje su bile začeci gradskog vodovoda. “Kuću kod česama” projektovao je turski arhitekta Rizvan beg, tek svršeni student arhitekture sa Sorbone. Voda je bukovim čunkovima dovedena sa 1. Glavna ulica 2. Stari grad 3. Polimski muzej 4. Kuća vojvode Gavra Vukovića 5. Manastir Đurđevi Stupovi 6. Spomenik na Jasikovcu 7. Manastir Šudikova 8. Manastir u Kaludri 9. Džamija u Petnjici 10. Petnjički kraj 4km 5 had passed away prematurely. At the end of the 19th century the headquarters of the state post was situated here. In one period religious services were held and the work of the lower religious school for children was organised within the waqf house. Among the locals, the waqf house was also known as “the house beside the drinking fountains”. The drinking fountains, which were the foundation of the town water supply system, were an integral part of the house. The “house beside the drinking fountains” was designed by Turkish architect Rizvan-Bey, just after he had graduated in architecture from Sorbonne University. Water was transferred through beech pipes from the monastery’s spring at Đurđevi Stupovi Monastery. It was two kilometres long, and it was in function right up until the nineteen-eighties. Above the drinking fountains there was a tarih (date plaque), a lyrical form which manastirskog vrela kod Đurđevih Stupova. Njegova dužina bila je 2 km, a bio je u funkciji sve do osamdesetih godina 20. vijeka. Iznad česama se nalazio tarih, lirska forma koja se koristila za obilježavanje važnih događaja, obično uklesana u kamen, ispisan mješavinom staroturskog i arapskog pisma: was used for recording important events, usually carved in stone, and it was written in a mixture of old Turkish and Arabic script: The drinking fountain of Mr. Šehid Oglu Mufetiš Ahmed Hamdi-paša Rebiul-Evvel in 1300 Česma gospodina Šehid Oglu Mufetiš Ahmed Hamdi – paša Rebiul – Evvel 1300. godine From those “drinking fountains” water was transferred to the fountain which was located in front of the town mosque. The mosque was situated in the very centre of the town, at the end of the main street. Built of bondruk (wooden laths and clay) in 1883, it had two floors, a high minaret 10. januar 1883. godine REGIONALNA RAZVOJNA AGENCIJA Bjelasica, Komovi & Prokletije Iz tih “česama” voda je bila sprovedena do šadrvana koji se nalazio ispred gradske džamije. Džamija se nalazila u samom centru grada, na kraju glavne ulice. Sagrađena od bondruka January 10, 1883 (drvenih letvi i gline) 1883. godine, imala je dva sprata, sa visokim minaretom od drveta i krovom pokrivenim šindrom. Džamija je srušena 1946. godine. made of wood and a roof covered with shingle. The mosque was knocked down in 1946. In the Beyluk – the marketplace – people used to buy and sell different types of cereals, dairy and other produce. In the surrounding shops various manufactured goods, such as sacks and other woollen products, harnesses and items for carts and horses as well as shoemaker’s products were sold. The once well-known bakery of the Lazarević family, famous for hot ćahije (a type of bread with black cumin served during Ramadan) and somun (a type of flat bread), where local women could bake the bread which they had prepared, was situated there as well. In the beyluk fruit and vegetables from the surrounding villages were sold, too. Green tomatoes were highly valued, whereas red tomatoes were not offered at all, since they were thought to be rotten. Business deals were made in the inns of Old town Na Begluku – pijaci građani su prodavali i kupovali razne vrste žitarica, mliječne i druge poljoprivredne proizvode. U okolnim dućanima prodavani su različiti manufakturni proizvodi: džakovi i drugi vuneni proizvodi, amovi i proizvodi za zaprežna kola i konje kao i opančarski proizvodi. Tu se nalazila i nekad čuvena pekara porodice Lazarević poznata po vrućim ćahijama (vrsta ramazanskog hljeba sa sjemenom ćurekota) i somunima, u kojoj su domaćice mogle da ispeku hljeb koji su same spremale. Na begluku se prodavalo i voće i povrće iz okolnih sela. Na cijeni je bio zeleni paradajz dok se crveni nije ni nudio jer se smatrao pokvarenim. Poslovi su ugovarani u hanovima Softića i Ramusovića. Uz kafu se nudio napitak šerbe i šurup. Iz ovog perioda ostao je zapisan način pripremanja napitka šurup koji se spravljao od latica majske ruže ili stambolke, koje se i danas mogu naći u beranskim baštama. Skupe se latice od 40 ruža, operu i naliju hladnom, prokuvanom vodom i dodaju im se 3 kesice limuntusa. Tako stoje 5-6 dana, dok tečnost potpuno ne poprimi boju ruža, a latice ne poblijede. Onda se sok procijedi, pa se na jedan litar soka doda kilogram šećera i ostavi da odstoji još barem 24 sata. Pije se razblažen sa vodom i dobro rashlađen. Od iste vrste ruže pravi se i slatko, a kažu da Beranke svoju ljepotu duguju upravo ovoj mirišljavoj majskoj ruži. Za vrijeme stare Jugoslavije begluk su zvali i Gornjoseljski begluk jer su Lubničani i Gornjoselci na njemu prodavali razne proizvode od drveta: kace, štruglje, kačamare i ostalo drveno posuđe. the Softić and the Ramusović families. Apart from coffee, drinks known as šerbe and šurup were offered. From this period a written recipe was preserved with the manner of preparation of the drink called Šurup, made of the petals of the May rose or stambolka, which even today can be found in the gardens of Berane. Collect the petals of 40 roses, wash and pour with cold, boiled water and add to them 3 bags of limuntus (a food additive). Let them sit for 5-6 days like that until the liquid fully absorbs the colour of the roses, and the petals fade. Then strain the juice and add one kilogramme of sugar to one litre of juice and let it sit for at least 24 hours. It is served diluted with water and cooled. A rose petal preserve is made as well from the same type of rose, and it is said that the women of Berane owe their beauty precisely to this fragrant May rose. In the time of the old Yugoslavia the beyluk was also called Gornoseljski begluk since people from Lubnice and Gornja Sela used to sell various products made of wood such as wooden vats, wooden pails, special wooden clubs for making kačamak (cornmeal mash) and other types of wooden dishes there. 6 Polimski muzej 9km 10 9 Posebnu vrijednost arheološke zbirke čine predmeti pronađeni u humkama iz ilirskog perioda. Ukras od ćilibara iz šestog vijeka prije nove ere, otkriven u kneževskom grobu sa Lisijevog polja, jedinstven je po svojoj ljepoti i vrijednosti. Na maloj pločici reljefno je prikazan konjanik sa 16km 2 Bogatu istoriju ovog kraja najbolje ćete upoznati u Polimskom muzeju. Preko 9000 eksponata svjedoče o dešavanjima u Gornjem Polimlju, na području Berana, Andrijevice, Plava i Rožaja, naseljenom još od mezolita. Muzej osnovan 1955. godine sačinjava nekoliko zbirki: arheološka, etnografska, numizmatička, heraldička, prirodnjačka i umjetnička, kao i galerija Šudikova. Veliki broj eksponata arheološke zbirke datira upravo iz mlađeg kamenog doba-neolita, bakarnog i bronzanog doba. Na brojnim i bogatim arheološkim lokalitetima u Polimlju pronađeni su oruđe, nakit, keramika i ostali predmeti za svakodnevnu upotrebu. Tu su nađene i jedinstvene alatke rađene od jelenskih rogova kao i neobična ogrlica napravljena od bušenih vučjih očnjaka. 1 3 Berane - kulturna ruta 5 psom, a umjetnički je najvrjednija ćilibarska glava minijaturnih dimenzija sa krupnim kosim očima. Pronađeni materijal u humci na Lisijevom polju jasno pokazuje da je u Polimlju živjelo nezavisno pleme koje je krajem 6. vijeka prije nove ere, razvilo kulturu sa jedinstvenim karakteristikama. Možda najzanimljiviji predmet iz srednjevjekovnog perioda čini unikatna pancirna košulja sa kapuljačom iz 14. vijeka, koja je činila sastavni dio ratne opreme vojnika iz doba krstaških ratova. Značajan dio srednjevjekovne arheološke kolekcije predstavljaju Neolithic, the Copper Age and the Bronze Age. Tools, jewellery, ceramics and other objects of everyday usage have been found in the numerous and rich archaeological localities in the Polimlje Region. Unique tools made of deer antlers as well as an unusual necklace made of pierced wolf’s fangs have been found here, too. Objects found in graves from the Illyrian period are a particularly valuable part of the archaeological collection. An ornament of amber from the sixth century B.C. discovered in a ducal grave in Lisijevo polje is unrivalled in terms of its beauty and value. A horseman is represented with a dog in relief on a small plate, whereas a head made of amber of miniature dimensions with large slanted eyes is the most valuable artistically. Materials found in a grave in Lisijevo polje clearly show that an independent tribe, which at the end of the 6th Zgrada u kojoj je smješten muzej podignuta je početkom 20. vijeka kao zadužbina kralja Aleksandra I Karađorđevića za uprisings and liberation wars which were fought in this region. Within the heraldic collection you can see a standard from the Balkan Wars belonging to a squadron from Trepča, as well as an Ottoman flag confiscated on Jasikovac Hill during the last battle for the liberation of the town from the Ottomans in 1912. 1. Glavna ulica 2. Stari grad 3. Polimski muzej 4. Kuća vojvode Gavra Vukovića 5. Manastir Đurđevi Stupovi 6. Spomenik na Jasikovcu 7. Manastir Šudikova 8. Manastir u Kaludri 9. Džamija u Petnjici 10. Petnjički kraj 7 You will discover the rich history of this area at its best in the Museum of the Polimlje Region. Over 9,000 exhibits bear witness to events in Gornje Polimlje (Upper Polimlje), in the area of Berane, Andrijevica, Plav and Rožaje, inhabited even since the Mesolithic Age. The iz Balkanskih ratova odreda iz Trepče, kao i tursku zastavu zaplijenjenu na Jasikovcu prilikom poslednje bitke za oslobođenje grada od Turaka 1912. godine. 4 4km museum, founded in 1955, is comprised of several collections: archaeological, ethnographic, numismatic, heraldic, natural history and an art collection, as well as the Gallery of Šudikova. A large number of exhibits in the archaeological collection date back to the Early Stone Age – the The Museum of the Polimlje Region 8 nalazi otkriveni u utvrđenjima i arhitektonskim ostacima velikog broja crkava i manastira sa ovog prostora. Pored bogoslužbenih predmeta izdvajaju se fragmenti živopisa, kamenog mobilijara i arhitektonske plastike. REGIONALNA RAZVOJNA AGENCIJA Bjelasica, Komovi & Prokletije century B.C. developed a culture with unique characteristics, lived in the Polimlje Region. Perhaps the most interesting object from the medieval period is a unique shirt of armour with a hood from the 14th century, which was an integral part of the war equipment of soldiers from the period of the Crusades. Finds discovered in fortifications and the architectural remains of a large number of churches Kako su izgledali, šta su oblačili i kako su živjeli stanovnici Polimlja kroz istoriju najbolje ilustruju predmeti iz bogate etnografske zbirke. Naročito su zanimljive narodne nošnje na čijim detaljima se najbolje vidi preplitanje kulturnih uticaja različitih etničkih grupa Polimlja. Posebnu grupu predstavlja veliki broj primjeraka hladnog i vatrenog oružja, od jatagana i sablji do kremenjača i kapislara. Barjaci i zastave svjedoci su brojnih buna i oslobodilačkih ratova koji su se vodili na ovom području. U heraldičkoj kolekciji možete vidjeti barjak and monasteries from this area make up a significant part of the medieval archaeological collection. Besides liturgical objects, fragments of fresco paintings, stone furniture and architectural decoration are very special. Objects from the rich ethnographic collection best illustrate what the inhabitants of the Polimlje Region looked like, what they wore and how they lived through history. Folk costumes, in whose details the interweaving of the cultural influences of the various ethnic groups of the Polimlje Region is best seen, are especially interesting. A large number of cold weapons and firearms, from yatagans (a type of Ottoman knife) and sabres to flintlocks and cartridge-based firearms represent a special group within this collection. Standards and flags bear witness to numerous potrebe Trezvenjačke omladine i Sokolskog društva. Dom Trezvenosti postao je centar kulturnog života u kom su organizovane razne priredbe, koncerti, maskenbali i prve pozorišne predstave. Tokom Drugog svjetskog rata, ovdje je, 1941. godine, održana prva skupština narodnih predstavnika i izabran prvi Odbor narodnog oslobođenja u Beranama. The building in which the museum is situated was built at the beginning of the 20th century as a legacy (memorial building) of King Aleksander I Karađorđević for the needs of the Youth Temperance and the Soko (Falcon) Societies. The Sobriety Home became the centre of cultural life in which various shows, concerts, masquerade balls and first theatre shows were organised. During World War II, in 1941, the first assembly of the people’s representatives was held and the first Committee of People’s Liberation in Berane was elected here. Kuća vojvode Gavra Vukovića „..bio je niskog, srednjeg rasta, već star i islabio, tih i mio čovjek, kojemu nije bilo, što se kaže, zazorno ni sa djetetom da progovori. Uprkos tom povučenom držanju bilo je kod njega utoliko više nečeg dostojanstvenog i na dlaku odmjerenog. Držao je do svakog pokreta i svake riječi. Vidjelo se na njemu da je iz glavarskih kuća.“ Ovako je vojvodu Gavra Vukovića vidio Milovan Đilas u svom djelu „Besudna zemlja“ opisujući period kada je on pohađao čuvenu beransku gimnaziju, a vojvoda Gavro Vuković provodio svoje poslednje dane pišući memoare u Beranama. Vojvoda Gavro Vuković, dugogodišnji ministar inostranih poslova Knjaževine Crne Gore jedna je od najznačajnijih ličnosti novovjekovne crnogorske istorije. Rođen je 1852. godine u selu Lopate u Lijevoj Rijeci, u poznatoj vojvodskoj porodici crnogorskog glavara, junaka i senatora Miljana Vukova Vešovića. Školovanje je započeo u manastiru Đurđevi Stupovi, a nastavio na Cetinju, u Nici i Beogradu gdje je diplomirao pravo na Velikoj školi i tako postao prvi diplomirani pravnik iz “..he was short and of medium build, already old and weakened, a quiet and nice man, who, as the saying goes, did not have a problem speaking even to a child. Despite that modest attitude or maybe precisely for that reason there was something dignified and quite steady in him. He was conscious of his every movement and word. It was visible in him that he was from a noble house.” This was the way that Milovan Đilas depicted Duke Gavro Vuković in his book “Land Without Justice” describing the period when he was attending the famous Berane Gymnasium, and Duke Gavro Vuković was seeing out his last days writing his memoirs in Berane. Duke Gavro Vuković, a long-time Minister of Foreign Affairs of the Principality of Montenegro is one of the most significant personalities of the new era of Montenegrin history. He was born in 1852 in the village of Lopate in Lijeva Rijeka, in the prominent noble family of the Montenegrin official, hero and senator Miljan Vukov Vešović. He started his education in the Đurđevi Stupovi Monastery, and continued it in Cetinje, Nice and Belgrade where he graduated in law from the Great School and thus became 6 9km 8 10 9 16km 2 1 3 Berane - kulturna ruta 1. Glavna ulica 2. Stari grad 3. Polimski muzej 4. Kuća vojvode Gavra Vukovića 5. Manastir Đurđevi Stupovi 6. Spomenik na Jasikovcu 7. Manastir Šudikova 8. Manastir u Kaludri 9. Džamija u Petnjici 10. Petnjički kraj 7 5 Vojvoda Gavro Vuković bavio se diplomatskim poslovima u jednom od najkomplikovanijih momenata crnogorske istorije. Posle višedecenijskog vojevanja i borbi za oslobođenje, sve probleme sada je trebalo rješavati diplomatskim putem. Razgraničiti se sa Turskom, održati dobre odnose sa Rusijom, popraviti odnose sa Srbijom i uklanjati sve izvore konfrontacija sa novim susjedom Austrougarskom. Najteže je bilo u pregovorima sa Osmanskim carstvom kada the first Bachelor of Law from Montenegro. Upon his return to the country, he occupied high positions and was assigned to significant state affairs. He held the position of Minister of Foreign Affairs for sixteen years (18891905). He was President of the State Council from 1906 to 1908, and he was elected a Member of Parliament twice, in 1906 and 1914. For his merits in 1892 he was awarded the title of duke, which his father also held. Duke Gavro Vuković was engaged in diplomatic affairs at one of the most complicated moments in Montenegrin history. After several decades of warfare and fighting for liberation, all problems then were to be resolved in a diplomatic manner. Agreeing borders with Turkey, maintaining good relations with Russia, improving relations with Serbia and removing all sources of confrontation with their new neighbour, Austria-Hungary. The most difficult part was in the prikaz spoljne politike Crne Gore sa kraja 19. i početka 20. vijeka, utemeljen na originalnim dokumentima iz lične arhive. Vojvoda Gavro Vuković umro je 29. jula 1928. godine u Beranama, a sahranjen je kod Manastira Đurđevi Stupovi koji je pred kraj života svakodnevno posjećivao. 4 4km Crne Gore. Po povratku u zemlju zauzima visoke položaje i povjeravaju mu se značajni državni poslovi. Na mjestu ministra inostranih poslova bio je šesnaest godina (1889-1905). Bio je predsjednik Državnog savjeta od 1906. do 1908. godine, a za narodnog poslanika biran je dva puta, 1906. i 1914. godine. Za svoje zasluge, 1892. godine dobija zvanje vojvode, koje je imao i njegov otac. je posle Berlinskog kongresa trebalo izvršiti razgraničenje teritorija. Upravo Gavro Vuković The house of Duke Gavro Vuković negotiations with the Ottoman Empire, when the delineation of territories was to be worked Poslednjih godina života vojvoda Gavro Vuković se povukao u Berane i potpuno posvetio pisanju out after the Congress of Berlin. It was Gavro Vuković who was appointed chargé d’affaires of the Principality of Montenegro in Istanbul, where he stayed, with breaks, from 1879 to 1884. Writing of that period in his memoirs he says: “I had neither assistant, nor interpreter, no security guard, not even a servant. And I had to do the most difficult work, negotiating with the impossible Turks day and night. “With desperate patience I endured a whole year struggling with material shortages as well. Alone, so to speak, I mended all alone the issue of political boundaries.” svojih memoara. Kroz ovo obimno štivo, koje u rukopisu broji preko hiljadu strana, želio je da napravi During the last years of his life, Duke Gavro Vuković retired to Berane and fully devoted himself postavljen je za otpravnika poslova Knjaževine Crne Gore u Carigradu, gdje je boravio sa prekidima od 1879. do 1884. godine. O tom periodu u svojim memoarima kaže: „Ni pomoćnika ni dragomana ni kavaza pa ni sluge nijesam imao. A morao sam raditi najteži posao, pregovarati sa nemogućim Turcima dan i noć. Sa očajničkim strpljenjem izdržao sam cijelu godinu dana boreći se i sa materijalnim oskudicama. Sam, takoreći iskrpio sam, sam pitanje političkih granica.“ REGIONALNA RAZVOJNA AGENCIJA Bjelasica, Komovi & Prokletije Spomen kuća Vojvode Gavra Vukovića, obnovljena 2001. godine, umnogome je sačuvala svoju osobenu arhitekturu sa baroknim elementima. U prizemlju kuće nalazi se galerijski prostor i nekadašnja radna soba Gavra Vukovića sa bibliotekom. Namještena po uzoru na kuće tog vremena, u radnoj sobi se čuvaju lične stvari vojvode Gavra među kojima i njegova sablja kao i brojni rukopisi. Ispred kuće postavljena je njegova bista, rad vajara Mitana Vučeljića. U čast najznačajnijeg crnogorskog diplomate, 2003. godine osnovana je Diplomatska akademija „Gavro Vuković“ koja se svakog ljeta održava u njegovoj spomen kući. to writing his memoirs. Through this extensive tome, which in manuscript form contains over a thousand pages, he wanted to conduct a review of Montenegro’s foreign policy at the end of 19th and the beginning of the 20th centuries, based on original documents from his private archive. Duke Gavro Vuković died on 29 July 1928 in Berane, and was buried beside Đurđevi Stupovi Monastery which he used to visit every day at the end of his life. The Memorial House of Duke Gavro Vuković, restored in 2001, has largely preserved its characteristic architecture with Baroque elements. On the ground floor of the house there is a gallery space and the onetime study of Gavro Vuković, along with the library. It has been decorated like the houses of that time, and in the study are kept the personal belongings of Duke Gavro, among which is his sabre, as well as numerous manuscripts. In front of the house stands his bust, the work of sculptor Mitan Vučeljić. In honour of the most significant Montenegrin diplomat, the Gavro Vuković Diplomatic Academy, which is held in his Memorial House every summer, was founded in 2003. Spomenik Slobode na Jasikovcu 6 10 9 16km 2 4 4km Berane - kulturna ruta 5 Spomenik na Jasikovcu podignut 1972. godine, okružen je sa 40 granitnih blokova. Na njima je, sa preko 10.000 slova ispisana istorija Polimlja. A istorija Berana počinje upravo ovdje. Na brdu Jasikovac. Tu su posle boja na Rudešu 1862. godine Turci podigli svoje vojno utvrđenje i tek povremeno prelazili na lijevu obalu Lima da umire buntovno stanovništvo. Turski oficiri i njihove porodice podigli su kuće u podnožju Jasikovca. Tako je nastalo The monument at Jasikovac, built in 1972, is surrounded by 40 granite blocks. The history of the Polimlje area has been written on those blocks in over 10,000 letters. And the history of Berane begins right here – on Jasikovac Hill. After the Battle of Rudeš in 1862 the Turks built their military fortification there and only occasionally did they cross over to the left bank of the River Lim to subdue the rebellious population. Turkish officers and their families built their houses in the foothills do Rizvan–bega koji se vratio u Hareme i odmah pogubio slugu. Ne htjevši da ga čeka u kući, Alba je otišla do Lima gdje se sa visoke stijene bacila u duboki vir. To mjesto, na kom je kasnije sagrađen hotel Berane i danas se po nesrećnoj Albi zove Albin fir. A Rizvan-beg se više nikad nije vratio u Berane. 1. Glavna ulica 2. Stari grad 3. Polimski muzej 4. Kuća vojvode Gavra Vukovića 5. Manastir Đurđevi Stupovi 6. Spomenik na Jasikovcu 7. Manastir Šudikova 8. Manastir u Kaludri 9. Džamija u Petnjici 10. Petnjički kraj 7 You are standing in front of the Monument to Liberty, one of the most unusual monuments in Montenegro. It was built in the place where on 17 July 1941 German occupiers executed Berane’s patriots. An imposing cone resembling the nose of a bullet, 18 metres high, is the symbol of the struggle for liberation which was fought in this region during the Balkan Wars, and the First and Second World Wars. The creator of the monument is the well-known architect and former mayor of Belgrade, Bogdan Bogdanović, famous for his daring ideas and memorial architecture. He is the creator of numerous memorials built in memory of the victims of fascism over the whole former Yugoslavia, among which the best known is the Stone Flower in Jasenovac. The Monument to Liberty at Jasikovac 1 3 Nalazite se ispred spomenika Slobode, jednog od najneobičnijih spomenika u Crnoj Gori. Podignut je na mjestu gdje su 17. jula 1941. godine njemački okupatori strijeljali beranske rodoljube. Impozantna kupa koja podsjeća na fišek metka, visoka 18 metara, simbol je borbe za oslobođenje koja se u ovom kraju vodila tokom Balkanskih, Prvog i Drugog svjetskog rata. Autor spomenika je poznati arhitekta i nekadašnji gradonačelnik Beograda, Bogdan Bogdanović, čuven po smjelim idejama i memorijalnoj arhitekturi. Autor je brojnih spomen-obilježja podignutih u znak sjećanja na žrtve fašizma u čitavoj bivšoj Jugoslaviji, među kojima je najpoznatiji Kameni cvijet u Jasenovcu. 8 9km Hareme, prvo urbanizovano i projektovano naselje na ovom području, koje je ime dobilo baš po tome što su tu živjele žene turskih oficira (harem – kuća za žene). U Haremima su u početku živjeli samo oficiri turske vojske i njihove porodice, kao i viđenije muslimanske porodice begovskog porijekla. Tu je svoju kulu imao i čuveni Rizvan-beg, arhitekta školovan u Parizu, koji je projektovao najznačajnije objekte u Beranama: vojno utvrđenje na Jasikovcu, Hareme, glavnu gradsku čaršiju, kasarnu, džamiju, šedrvan i gradsku česmu. Za potrebe vojnog utvrđenja sproveo je vodu do Jasikovca, pa su tako i skoro sve kuće u Haremima dobile vodu. of Jasikovac. That was how Hareme, the first urbanised and designed settlement in this region, was created, and it was named after the fact that the wives of Turkish officers were living there (harem – house for women). To begin with, only officers of the Turkish army, their families and prominent Muslim families descended from chieftains (beys) were living in Hareme. There was also the blockhouse of the famous Rizvan-bey, an architect educated in Paris, who designed the most significant buildings in Berane: the military fortification at Jasikovac, Hareme, the town’s main street, the army barracks, the mosque, a water fountain and the town’s drinking fountain. For the Za Rizvan–bega i njegovu hanumu Albu vezana je i jedna od najstarijih beranskih legendi. Kao arhitekta Rizvan-beg je često putovao i dugo odsustvovao od needs of the military fortification he supplied Jasikovac with water, and in that way almost all the houses in Hareme also obtained running water. Na samo kilometar od centra grada, park na Jasikovcu postao je omiljeno izletište Beranaca, i mjesto sa kog se pruža najbolji pogled na čitav grad. Ostaci Rizvan-begove kule REGIONALNA RAZVOJNA AGENCIJA Bjelasica, Komovi & Prokletije Utvrđenje Jasikovac, sa šančevima zatvorenog tipa, bilo je poprište i poslednje bitke za oslobođenje grada od Turaka, 1912. godine. Tom prilikom zaplijenjena je mala turska zastava koja se i danas čuva u Polimskom muzeju. kuće. Samujući, njegova mlada žena Alba zaljubila se u slugu. Kada više nijesu mogli da kriju svoju ljubav, započeli su zajednički život. Te vijesti brzo su došle i Also, one of Berane’s oldest legends is related to Rizvan-bey and his wife Alba. As an architect, Rizvan-bey often travelled and was absent from his home for a long time. Spending time all alone, his young wife Alba fell in love with a servant. When they could not keep their love secret any longer they started living together. This news soon reached Rizvan-bey, who came back to Hareme and killed the servant immediately. Not wanting to wait for him in the house, Alba went to the River Lim where she threw herself from a high rock into the deep whirlpool. That place, at which the Berane Hotel was built later on, even today is called Alba’s Whirlpool, after the unfortunate Alba. And Rizvan-bey never again came back to Berane. The Jasikovac fortification, with its closed-type trenches, was also the battlefield for the last battle for the liberation of the town from the Turks in 1912. On that occasion a small Turkish flag was captured, which still today is kept in the Museum of the Polimlje area. Being only a kilometre away from the town centre, the park at Jasikovac has become a favourite picnic spot for the people of Berane, and the place offers the best view of the whole town. Манастир Ђурђеви Ступови 6 9km 10 9 16km 2 1 3 4 4km Berane - kulturna ruta 1. Glavna ulica 2. Stari grad 3. Polimski muzej 4. Kuća vojvode Gavra Vukovića 5. Manastir Đurđevi Stupovi 6. Spomenik na Jasikovcu 7. Manastir Šudikova 8. Manastir u Kaludri 9. Džamija u Petnjici 10. Petnjički kraj 7 Манастир пред којим стојите за својих 800 година постојања 5 пута је паљен, 5 пута рушен и 5 пута обнављан. У народу га зато зову и манастир мученик. Ипак манастир Ђурђеви Ступови успио је да надживи сваку невољу. Подигнут је далеке 2013. године, као задужбина жупана Стефана Првослава, господара Будимља, сина великог жупана Тихомира и синовца Стефана Немање. О томе свједочи и натпис на десној страни наоса изнад ктиторовог гроба. Колика је била важност овог манастирa и читавог Будимља у доба Немањића, говори и чињеница да је Свети Сава 1219. године у Ђурђевим Ступовима успоставио будимљанску епископију, четврту по реду од осам првобитних епархија и на овом мјесту устоличио првог будимљанског епископа Јакова. The monastery you are standing in front of has been set on fire five times, destroyed five times and rebuilt five times in its eighthundred year-long existence. For this reason, among the locals, it is called the Martyr Monastery. However, Đurđevi Stupovi Monastery managed to outlive all its misfortunes. It was built back in 1213 as a memorial monastery of Prince Stefan Prvoslav, Lord of Budimlje, the son of Grand Prince Tihomir and the nephew of Stefan Nemanja. An inscription on the right side of the cella above its benefactor’s grave witnesses to that fact, too. The importance of this monastery and the whole of Budimlje in the Nemanjić era is also testified to by the fact that in 1219 in Đurđevi Stupovi Monastery St Sava established the Episcopacy of Budimlje, the fourth in order out of the eight original dioceses, and also consecrated the first bishop of Budimlje, Jakov. Под сводовима овог манастира одржавани су зборови и сабори, договарани устанци и буне, проглашена је независност Васојевићке књaжевине и донешена одлука о уједињењу са Црном Гором 1857. године. Можда Under the arches of this monastery meetings and gatherings were held, uprisings and rebellions were planned, the independence of the Principality of Vasojevići was declared and the decision about its unification with Montenegro in 1857 was made. 8 5 изгоре у њему. Манастир је том приликом одбрањен, али је ипак горио и пети пут, 1912. године, непосредно уочи Првог балканског рата. Незапамћеним настојањем и трудом народа Ђурђеви Ступови су коначно обновљени баш због тога, често је био на удару турских власти, а у једном тренутку угашена је и будимљанска епископија. Од 18. до 20. вијека турски освајачи су више пута пљачкали и палили манастир: 1738., 1825., 1862. и 1875. године. Када су 1898. године поново хтјели да запале манастир, народ је устао у одбрану. У манастир се затворило 27 људи, народних првака, који су одлучили, - или да одбране манастир или да 1925. године, а нови иконостас урађен је 1927. године. Епископско сједиште у Ђурђевим Ступовима обновљено је 4. маја 2002. године оснивањем Епархије Будимљанско-никшићке, а за епископа устоличен је епископ Јоаникије Мићовић. Perhaps for that precise reason it was frequently attacked by the Ottoman authorities, and at one time the Episcopacy of Budimlje even ceased to exist. From the 18th to 20th century the Ottoman conquerors plundered and set the monastery on fire several times: in 1738, 1825, 1862 and 1875. When in 1898 they wanted to set the monastery on fire again the people rose to its defence. Twenty-seven people, popular leaders, who decided that they would either defend the monastery or burn to death in it, shut themselves in the monastery. On that occasion the monastery was successfully defended, but still it was set fire to for the fifth time, in 1912, immediately before the First Balkan War. By the unparalleled strivings and REGIONALNA RAZVOJNA AGENCIJA Bjelasica, Komovi & Prokletije Црква посвећена светом великомученику Георгију је једнобродна грађевина са полукружном апсидом на источној страни. У комплексу манастира запажају се три грађевинске фазе, а поједини елементи архитектуре упућују efforts of the locals, Đurđevi Stupovi Monastery was finally reconstructed in 1925, and a new iconostasis was made in 1927. The Episcopal seat in the Đurđevi Stupovi Monastery was re-established on 4 May 2002 by the foundation of the Diocese of Budimlje-Nikšić, and Bishop Joanikije Mićović was consecrated as the bishop of Budimlje-Nikšić. The church dedicated to St George the Great - Martyr is a single - nave building with a semicircular apse on the eastern side. Within the monastery Đurđevi Stupovi Monastery да се настанак првобитне цркве може помјерити дубље у 12. вијек. Од првобитних фресака насталих у 14. вијеку за вријеме цара Душана није много остало. Као да није довољно страдао од непрестане паљбе турских топова са Јасиковца, у Првом свjетском рату, Аустроугарска војска је манастир претворила прво у коњушницу а потом и у кухињу и спаваоницу. На ономе што је остало од фресака препознаје се рука даровитих дечанских мајстора, поријеклом из которске школе сликања. Од изузетне вриједности су и велики крст, ремек дјело кујунџијске вјештине 19. вијека и велико јеванђеље сребрних корица, који се чувају у манастиру. Уз сам манастир сахрањен је игуман Мојсије Зечевић који је столовао у Ђурђевим Ступовима у првој половини 19. вијека. Световни и духовни владар Васојевића, много је учинио за ослобођење и уједињење црногорских племена. У Ђурђевим Ступовима основао је прву манастирску школу за монахе 1824. године, а потом и прву световну школу 1836. године. За њега се везује и обнова „Васојевићког закона од дванаест точака“. complex, three constructional phases are noticeable, and certain elements of architecture suggest that the building of the original church can be moved further back into the 12th century. Not much remains from the original frescoes created in the 14th century during the rule of Czar Dušan. As if it was not destroyed enough from unceasing firing of Ottoman cannons from Jasikovac Hill, during World War I, the AustrianHungarian Army converted the monastery first into a stable for horses, and afterwards into a kitchen and dormitory respectively. In what remains of the frescoes, one can recognise the hand of the talented masters from Dečani Monastery, originating from the Kotor school of painting. A large cross, a masterpiece of silversmithing skills of the 19th century and a large Gospel with silver covers, which are kept in the monastery, are of exceptional value. Prior Mojsije Zečević who was head of Đurđevi Stupovi Monastery in the first half of the 19th century was buried beside the monastery itself. Being the secular and spiritual leader of the Vasojevići clan, he did a lot towards the liberation and unification of Montenegrin clans. In Đurđevi Stupovi Monastery, Prior Mojsije Zečević founded the first monastic school for monks in 1824, and afterwards in 1836 the first secular school as well. The restoration of “The Vasojevići Clan Law of Twelve Articles” is connected with him as well. Манастир Шудикова 6 9km 10 9 Братство манастира тада би сва црквена блага склањало у саму клисуру гдје су се налазиле испоснице и неприступачни подзидани пећински отвори. troops. The brotherhood of the monastery would then hide all the church’s treasures in the very gorge where the monks’ cells and inaccessible embanked cave openings were located. Šudikova Monastery was 4 4km Berane - kulturna ruta 1. Glavna ulica 2. Stari grad 3. Polimski muzej 4. Kuća vojvode Gavra Vukovića 5. Manastir Đurđevi Stupovi 6. Spomenik na Jasikovcu 7. Manastir Šudikova 8. Manastir u Kaludri 9. Džamija u Petnjici 10. Petnjički kraj 7 5 У писаним документима манастир Шудикову проналазимо нешто прије 16. вијека када је већ био познат као духовно и образовно средиште са чувеном преписивачком, списатељском и фрескописачком и сликарском школом. Најпознатија је свакако била сликарска из које је поникао чувени зограф, поп Страхиња Будимљанин, један од наших најпознатијих mentioned in written documents just before the 16th century when it was already well known as a spiritual and educational centre with a famous scriptorium and literary school, as well as a frescopainting and painting school. The best-known of those for certain was the painting school from which the famous fresco-painter Priest Strahinja of Budimlje, one of our best-known painters from the end of the 16th century, originated. Bishop Teophilios and the monk Јевстатије. Сви они додали су свом имену Будимљaнин. Велики углед уживала је и преписивачка школа. У Шудикови је настао и један од најстаријих писаних споменика из ових крајева Светоотачки зборник који се данас чува REGIONALNA RAZVOJNA AGENCIJA Bjelasica, Komovi & Prokletije сликара са краја 16. вијека. Из фреско-иконографске школе у Шудикови поникли су и епископ Теофил и монах Eustatios originated from the fresco-painting and iconographic school in Šudikova, too. All of them added to their name the title Археолошка истраживања настављена су 2002. године, када је стручна екипа Полимског музеја открила остатке цркве Ваведења Богородице и конака који се налазе сјеверно и западно од цркве. На основу нађеног археолошког материјала сматра се да је црква подигнута у 14. вијеку. Манастир је почео да се обнавља 2005. године. 1 3 Hidden right by the entrance to the Tifran Gorge, Šudikova Monastery with its church dedicated to the Entry of the Theotokos has for centuries been the spiritual and cultural centre of the Polimlje region. It is said that this monastery was a retreat and a shelter for the clergy of the Metropolitanate of Budimlje from frequent invasions by the Ottoman conquerers during the 16th and 17th century, and the only active place in which the work on educating the clergy was continued. This secluded place could be approached only from the village of Budimlje, whereas the watchtower on Viša Rock on the other side of the River Lim warned of the arrival of Ottoman Šudikova Monastery 16km 2 Сакривен на самом улазу у Тифранску клисуру, манастир Шудикова са црквом посвећеном Ваведењу Богородице вjековима је био духовни и културни центар Полимља. Кажу да је овај манастир представљао одступницу и склониште свештенству будимљанске митрополије од честих упада турских освајача током 16. и 17. вијека, и једино активно мјесто у којем је настављен рад на образовању свештенства. Овом скровитом мјесту могло се прићи само из села Будимља, а кула мотриља на Вишином кршу са друге стране Лима упозоравала је на долазак турских јединица. 8 “… of Budimlje”. The scribes’ school also enjoyed a great reputation. In Šudikovo one of the oldest written monuments from the wider region was created as well – the Holy Fathers’ Collection, which is kept today in Holy Trinity Monastery in Pljevlja. In 1573 Metropolitan у манастиру Свете Тројице у Пљевљима. Митрополит будимски Герасим, ту је написао 1573. године познати Минеј који се данас налази у Народној библиотеци у Београду, јеромонах Данило је 1592. године написао Псалтир који се чува у Бечу, а 1602. године ђакон Михаило, написао је Молебник који се налази у библиотеци грофа Уварова у Москви. Турци су 1738. године манастир разорили и спалили као одмазду за учешће народа Полимља у ратовима на страни Аустрије. Два вијека касније, током 1923. године, директор гимназије у Беранама са професорима и ђацима откопао је остатке цркве Ваведења Богородице, а пронађене фрагменте фресака и дјелове каменог мобилијара пренио је у зборницу школе. Пронађени материјал страдао је у пожару 1941. године. Манастир Шудикова познат је и по извору који се повремено појављује у близини манастира. Овај извор, назван Свето врело, и по неколико пута у току једног дана се појави и опет нестане под земљом. Сматра се да је ова љековита Gerasimos of Budim wrote the famous Menaion there which is today kept in the National Library in Belgrade; Hieromonk Danilo in 1592 wrote The Psalter which is kept in Vienna, and in 1602 Deacon Mihailo wrote The Prayer Book which is kept in the Library of Count Uvarov in Moscow. In 1738 the Ottomans destroyed and set the monastery on fire as retribution for the participation of people from the Polimlje region in the wars on the side of the Austrians. Two centuries later, in 1923, the head teacher of the Gymnasium in Berane, along with te teachers and students, excavated the remains of the Church of the Entry of the Theotokos, and he transferred the discovered fragments of frescoes and parts of stone furniture into the senior common room of the school. The discovered material was destroyed in a fire in 1941. Archaeological excavations were вода нарочито помагала слијепима, нероткињама, лепрозним и умоболним, а према предању и сам ослијепљели краљ Стефан Дечански се ту лијечио. Недалеко од манастира, у Тифранској клисури, на старом путу Беране - Бијело Поље, налази се споменик краљу Александру, подигнут 1929. године, као знак захвалности народа Васојевића за изградњу бројних грађевина, као што су пут Пећ - Чакор Андријевица, школа у Трепчи, Дом трезвености - данас зграда Полимскиг музеја у Беранама и пут Беране-Бијело Поље. continued in 2002, when an expert team from the Museum of the Polimlje Region discovered the remains of the Church of the Entry of the Theotokos and a dormitory which are located to the north and to the west of the church. On the basis of the discovered archaeological material it is thought that the church was built in the 14th century. The reconstruction of the monastery started in 2005. Šudikova Monastery is also famous for a spring which periodically appears in the vicinity of the monastery. This spring, called the Sacred Spring, appears even several times within a day and then again disappears underground. It is thought that this healing water particularly helped the blind, barren women, lepers and the insane, and according to a legend the blinded King Stefan of Dečani himself was healed there. Near the monastery, in the Tifran Gorge, on the old Berane–Bijelo Polje Road, there is a monument dedicated to King Alexander, built in 1929, in gratitude of the people of the Vasojevići clan for the construction of numerous structures, such as the Peć– Čakor–Andrijevica Road, the school in Trepča, the Sobriety Home - today the building of the Museum of the Polimlje Region in Berane and the Berane–Bijelo Polje Road. Манастир Светог Луке у Калудри 6 9km 10 9 16km 2 1 3 4 4km Убрзо након оснивања епископије у Ђурђевим ступовима у 13. вијеку, подигнуте су и главне парохијске цркве по регионима. Овдје, на десној обали Калударске ријеке, испод самих обронака планине Дивљак, у 14. вијеку подигнут је манастир са црквом посвећеном Светом Апостолу Луки. Цркву је највјероватније осликао чувени поп Страхиња из Будимља, један од најзначајнијих фрескописаца тог доба. Више од три вијека на овом мјесту постојале су само рушевине. Легенда каже да је само чобаница Лабуда из села Калудра знала да се овдје некада налазио манастир. Средином прошлог вијека, свакодневно је голим рукама Soon after the foundation of the episcopacy in Đurđevi Stupovi Monastery in the 13th century, the main parish churches in various regions were built. Here, on the right bank of the River Kaludra, right under the slopes of Mt. Divljak, in the 14th century a monastery with a church dedicated to St Luke the Apostle was built. The church was most probably fresco-painted by the famous Priest Strahinja from Budimlje, one of the most significant fresco painters of that time. For more than three centuries only ruins existed at this location. Legend has it that only a shepherdess named Labuda from the village of Kaludra knew that a monastery had once been situated there. In the middle of the last century, every day, she dug out the foundations of the 8 Приликом осликавања обновљене цркве фрескописана је и чобаница Лабуда. На лијевом зиду храма, уз сами иконостас, испод фресака светог Георгија и светог Димитрија, налази се и Лабудин лик - како клечи над рушевинама храма, са упаљеном свијећом у руци и молитвеним погледом у небо. Испод фреске је записано: „Дјевојка Лабуда из Калудре у свакодневној молитви да се не утули пламен ове светиње.“ When church Манастир је постао познат по пештерима - пећинама испосницама у којима су the was reconstructed fresco-painted the shepherdess Labuda was represented on a fresco painting as well. On the left wall of the church, right beside the iconostasis and below the frescoes Laid to waste in the 17th century during Ottoman rule, the monastery was reconstructed at the turn of the new millennium. In only seven months, between March and October 2001, on the old foundations the frescopainted church dedicated to St Luke the Apostle was built. The манастира је Вељко Ралевић. Тада је саграђен и конак са десет келија, звоник и рибњак. Манастир је освештао 28. октобра 2001. године његова светост патријарх српски господин Павле. benefactor of the monastery is Veljko Ralević. On this occasion a dormitory with ten cells, a belltower and a fishpond ware built there as well. The monastery was consecrated on 28 October 2001 by His Holiness Patriarch Pavle of Serbia. In the treasury of the monastery a wonderful silver cross studded with precious stones is kept, as well as part of the relics of St Luke the Apostle, St Artemios the Great-Martyr, St Eustatius Plakida the Great-Martyr and St Ignatios of Iviron the New Righteous Martyr. 1. Glavna ulica 2. Stari grad 3. Polimski muzej 4. Kuća vojvode Gavra Vukovića 5. Manastir Đurđevi Stupovi 6. Spomenik na Jasikovcu 7. Manastir Šudikova 8. Manastir u Kaludri 9. Džamija u Petnjici 10. Petnjički kraj 5 church with her bare hands and regularly lit wax candles, which she made of wax collected from wild beehives, saying to both herself and others that there had been a church there. People in the village considered her crazy, since nobody understood what she was doing in the ruined foundations. Разорен у 17. вијеку за вријеме турске владавине, манастир је обновљен на самом почетку новог миленијума. За само седам мјесеци, од марта до октобра 2001. године, на старим темељима подигнут је и фрескописан храм посвећен Светом Апостолу Луки. Ктитор Berane - kulturna ruta 7 откопавала темеље цркве и редовно палила воштанице, које је правила од сакупљеног воска из дивљих пчелињака, говорећи и себи и другима да је ту била црква. У селу су је људи сматрали лудом, јер нико није разумио шта то она ради крај разорених темеља. The Monastery of St Luke in Kaludra живјели и припремали се за монашки живот калуђери испосници. По њима су и ријека и оближње село добили име Калудра, а због келиотског живота монаха испосника манастир је у народу постао познатији под именом Ћелије (келије). Једна од пећина налази се на десетак минута хода од манастира. На око 70 метара изнад пута, окренута ка југозападу, ова пећина висока је 4 метра, дугачка 17 метара, а широка не више од 6 метара. Још увијек се могу видјети трагови некадашњег обитавања, као што су сједишта уклесана у стијени и крст уклесан на предњој страни REGIONALNA RAZVOJNA AGENCIJA Bjelasica, Komovi & Prokletije of St George and St Demetrios, there is Labuda’s image too – of her kneeling before the ruins of the church, with a lit candle in her hand and praying, looking towards the sky. Below the fresco there is a text which reads: “The girl Labuda from Kaludra in her everyday prayer for the flame of this sacred place, never to be extinguished”. The monastery became famous for pešters – anchorites’ cells built into caves, in which anchorite monks (kaluđeri) lived and prepared for the monastic life. Both the river and the nearby village were named Kaludra after them, and because of the стијене. Пећинске цркве и станишта биле су значајан дио духовног живота средњег вијека. Подигнуте у неприступачном крајолику, оне су испосницимa омогућавале удаљавање од свијета и приближавање богу. Настањивали су их само највећи подвижници, који су се у својим келијама бавили молитвом и контемплацијом, али и израдом различитих рукотворина и преписивањем књига. anchoritic life of these monks in their cave-cells the monastery became better-known by the name Ćelije (cells) among the locals. One of the caves is located some ten-minutes’ walk away from the monastery. About 70 metres above the road, orientated towards the southwest, this cave is 4 metres high, 17 metres deep, and no more than 6 metres wide. One can still see the traces of earlier habitation, such as seats cut into the rock and a cross in the front side of the rock. Cave churches and dwelling places were an important part of medieval spiritual life. Built in inaccessible surroundings, they enabled anchorites to withdraw from the secular world and to approach God. These were inhabited only by the greatest ascetics, who in their cells practised prayer and contemplation as well as producing various handicrafts and copying books. У ризници манастира чува се предиван крст опточен сребром и драгим камењем и дјелови моштију Светог Апостола Луке, Светог Великомученика Артемија, Светог Великомученика Евстатијa Плакиде и Светог преподобномученика Игњатија Ивиронског. Džamija u Petnjici 6 9km 10 9 1 3 4 4km Berane - kulturna ruta 1. Glavna ulica 2. Stari grad 3. Polimski muzej 4. Kuća vojvode Gavra Vukovića 5. Manastir Đurđevi Stupovi 6. Spomenik na Jasikovcu 7. Manastir Šudikova 8. Manastir u Kaludri 9. Džamija u Petnjici 10. Petnjički kraj 7 5 Ne zna se sa sigurnošću kada je nastala. Narodno predanje kaže da je to bilo krajem 16. vijeka, kada su sa opadanjem značaja grada Bihora, počele da se grade džamije i van njegovih zidina. Glavni putevi išli su rijekom Popčom, pa su se uz njen tok podizale i džamije. Istoričari njenu izgradnju povezuju sa dolaskom Hajdar - paše Selima, 1689. godine, kada je izgrađeno više objekata orijentalnog stila u Bihoru i Limskoj dolini. Njen prvobitni izgled znatno se razlikovao od današnjeg. Obim zgrade je bio manji, prvi sprat napravljen You are standing in front of one of the largest mosques in the Balkans, characterised by its unique architecture with wooden, hand-carved pillars. With a floor area of about 550m2 it can accommodate up to as many as 1,200 believers. The mosque in Petnjica is also the only threestorey mosque in Montenegro. It is several centuries old and as such its appearance has also changed over time. It is not known for certain when it was built. Legend says it was at the end of the 16th century, when with the decrease in importance of the town of Bihor, mosques started to be built outside its walls as well. Major roads led along the River Popča and correspondingly mosques were built along its course as well. Historians connect its construction with the arrival of Haidar-pasha Selim, in 1689, when several Oriental-style structures were built in Bihor and the River Lim valley. pa se 1901. godine krenulo sa proširenjem, o čemu svjedoči tarih napisan arapskim pismom na ploči koja se čuva u džamiji. od kamena, a drugi od drveta. Minare je bilo drveno, a džamija je bila pokrivena tahtom. U narodu postoji predanje da je kamen za njenu izgradnju donešen sa džamije koja se nalazila u srednjevjekovnom utvrđenju Bihor, na vrhu strmog brijega Gradina, iznad sela Bioča. Krajem 17. i početkom 18. vijeka broj stanovnika u petnjičkom kraju je rastao, a Petnjica je prerasla u značajno okružno središte. Džamija je postala premala, The Mosque in Petnjica 16km 2 Nalazite se pred jednom od najvećih džamija na Balkanu, jedinstvene arhitekture, sa drvenim, ručno rezbarenim stubovima. Sa površinom od oko 550m2 ona može da primi i do 1200 vjernika. Džamija u Petnjici je i jedina trospratna džamija u Crnoj Gori. Stara je nekoliko vjekova, te se i njen izgled vremenom mijenjao. 8 Its original appearance differed significantly from the current one. The size of the building was smaller; the first floor was made of stone, whereas the second floor was made of wood. The minaret was wooden, while the mosque was covered with wooden boards. Among the locals there is a legend that the stone for its construction was brought from a mosque which was located within the medieval fortification of Bihor, at the top of the steep hill of Gradina, above the village of Bioče. “La Ilahe illalah Muhameden resulullah, Mutevelija iz Trpezi, Cikotić Hasan (Huso) Bejtov i Tahir Abdurahmanov Kršić, iz Radmanaca, Glavni majstor iz Hercegovine, nastanjen u Beranama Ajdin Korijanić, imam mula Šaćir Hodžić, godine 1321.h. (1903)“ Materijal za dogradnju džamije, unutrašnje opremanje, kao i novac i hranu za majstore, obezbijedio REGIONALNA RAZVOJNA AGENCIJA Bjelasica, Komovi & Prokletije Chief artisan from Hercegovina, Ajdin Korijanić settled in Berane, Imam Mullah Šaćir Hodžić, in the year 1321 H. (1903)“ At the end of the 17th and the beginning of the 18th century the number of inhabitants of the region of Petnjica was growing, and Petnjica developed into an important regional centre. The mosque became too small and therefore in 1901 its enlargement was initiated, which is witnessed to by the date written in Arabic script on the plate kept in the mosque. “La Ilahe illalah Muhameden resulullah, Mutevelija (estate manager) from Trpezi, Cikotić Hasan (Huso) Bejtov and Tahir Abdurahmanov Kršić, from Radmanci, Material for the enlargement of the mosque and its furnishing, as well as money and food for the artisans were provided by the people of this region through voluntary presents and contributions. The size of the enlarged mosque was 15.80 x 13.20 m2 and it had three floors and a wooden minaret considerably higher than the current one. je narod ovog kraja dobrovoljnim darovima i prilozima. Veličina dograđene džamije je bila 15,80 x 13,20 m, imala je tri sprata i drve no minare znatno više od današnjeg. Čuven je bio i hladnjak izgrađen 1930. godine u bašti džamije, u koji je moglo da sjedne oko 50 ljudi. Bilo je to mjesto za okupljanje i razgovor prije samog ulaska u The hladnjak (shade), in which about 50 people could sit, built in 1930 in the garden of the mosque was famous as well. It was a place for gathering and conversation before entering the mosque. The foundations were made of stone, on which wooden beams with wooden construction and a cover made of wooden planking were leaned. The structure was removed in 1956. During the 20th džamiju. Temelji su bili od kamena, a na njih su se naslanjali drveni direci sa drvenom konstrukcijom i pokrovom od tahte. Objekat je uklonjen 1956. godine. Tokom 20. vijeka džamija je pretrpjela nekoliko promjena, da bi joj poslednjom rekonstrukcijom 2005. godine, bio vraćen pređašnji izgled. Džamija u Petnjici imala je veoma značajnu ulogu u opismenjavanju i očuvanju kulturnog identiteta Bihoraca. U arhivu džamije i danas se čuvaju liste rođenih, vjenčanih, kao i druge pojedinosti o stanovništvu ovog kraja. Vjeruje se da ova džamija nikada nije stradala, jer njene temelje čuvaju meleci - anđeli kao i pokloni Bihoraca dati za napredak porodice i čitavog kraja. century the mosque went through several alterations only to regain its former appearance with the last reconstruction in 2005. The mosque in Petnjica had a very important role in making local people literate and in the preservation of the cultural identity of people of the region of Bihor. In the archive of the mosque even today the registers of birth and registers of marriage, as well as other details about the population of this region, are kept. It is believed that this mosque has never been destroyed because its foundations are guarded by meleks, i.e. angels as well as by the presents from the people of Bihor people given for the advancement of their families and the whole region. Petnjički kraj 6 9km 10 9 1 3 U samom centru Bihora, na brdu Gradina, iznad ušća rijeke Lješnice u Lim, nalaze se ostaci srednjevjekovnog grada Bihora. Podignut na 1000m nadmorske visine, dominirao je velikim dijelom Limske doline, i kontrolisao značajne saobraćajnice koje su spajale Budim i Bihor sa Plavom na jednoj i Sjenicom i Novim Pazarom na drugoj strani. O prošlosti ovog tajanstvenog grada ne zna se mnogo. Turci su ga zauzeli 1455. godine, a iz detaljnog popisa prizrenskog sandžaka nastalog u periodu 1521. - 1530., saznajemo da je u to vrijeme grad – tvrđava Bihor Old people from Bihor say that Petnjica was named after five small ploughed fields which, when viewed from the surrounding mountains, were clearly visible in the valley. The valley was first called “Pet njivica” (five small ploughed fields), which was later transformed into Petnjica. Here, at an elevation of 700 metres above sea level, in the valley of the River Popča and just beside the Radman Gorge, is located the little town of Petnjica, the centre of the Gornji Bihor area, which, it is said, was named after behar (blossom) covering it in early spring. The whole area is widely known for its cold spring water and juicy apples about which many songs and poems were written. Senabije, đulabije, šarenike, pašinke and babovače are only some of the types of apples which grow best right here, and these are also used for making the even better-known pies. The remains of the medieval town of Bihor are situated at the very centre of Bihor, on Gradina Hill, above the confluence of the River Lješnica and the River Lim. Erected at an elevation of 1000m above sea level it dominated a large area of the River Lim valley, and controlled important roads which connected Budim and Bihor with Plav on one side, and with Sjenica and Novi Pazar on the 4 4km Berane - kulturna ruta 1. Glavna ulica 2. Stari grad 3. Polimski muzej 4. Kuća vojvode Gavra Vukovića 5. Manastir Đurđevi Stupovi 6. Spomenik na Jasikovcu 7. Manastir Šudikova 8. Manastir u Kaludri 9. Džamija u Petnjici 10. Petnjički kraj 7 5 toponim Crkvina što ukazuje na dugu predosmansku tradiciju ovog prostora. imala svoju posadu koju su sačinjavali dizdar, ćehaja, tobdžija, imam i 21 mustahfiz. Grad Bihor postao je sjedište istoimene nahije i kadiluka, pa je polovinom 16. vijeka njegova posada brojala 226 ljudi, i bila je opremljena sa četiri topa i skladištima sa žitaricama. Pod turskom vlašću bio je sve do 1912. godine kada je napušten. Danas se mogu identifikovati ostaci tri kule i cisterne za vodu, kao i trase nekadašnjih bedema koje dosežu i do tri metra visine. Uz tvrđavu Bihor postojalo je i podgrađe, a to ime nosi i današnje seoce čije se kuće nalaze ispod utvrđenja. U Podgrađu su vidljivi ostaci groblja, a sačuvan je i The Region of Petnjica 16km 2 Pričaju stari Bihorci da je Petnjica dobila ime po pet njivica koje su se, gledajući sa okolnih planina, jasno uočavale u dolini. Dolinu su prvo nazvali “Pet njivica” što se kasnije pretvorilo u Petnjicu. Ovdje, na 700 metara nadmorske visine, u dolini rijeke Popče, tik uz Radmansku klisuru, nalazi se varoš Petnjica, centar Gornjeg Bihora, koji je, kažu, dobio ime po beharu koji ga prekrije u rano proljeće. Čitav kraj nadaleko je čuven po hladnoj izvorskoj vodi i sočnim jabukama o kojima su mnoge pjesme ispjevane. Senabije, đulabije, šarenike pašinke i babovače samo su neke od sorti koje najbolje rađaju upravo ovdje, a od njih se prave i još čuvenije pite. 8 other. Not much is known about the past of this mysterious town. The Ottoman Turks occupied it in 1455, and from the detailed register of the Prizren Sandžak made in the period from 1521 to 1530, we know that at that time town-fortress of Bihor had a garrison comprised of a fortress commander, a deputy commander and a manager of the estate, a cannon operator, an imam and 21 mustahfizs (guardians). The town of Bihor became the centre of the nahiye (the smallest administrative unit in the Ottoman Empire) and kadilik (court unit, county) of the same name; thus in the mid-16th centu-ry its garrison had 226 U blizini Petnjice nalazi se i jedno od najznačajnijih arheoloških nalazišta u Crnoj Gori - lokalitet Torine, u Radmanskoj klisuri, sa čuvenom zazidanom pećinom. Torine su najvrednije i najbogatije nalazište iz mlađeg bronzanog doba - eneolita. Tu je pronađena jedinstvena ženska figurina stara 5000 godina. Figurina predstavlja nagu ženu sa realistično prikazanim torzom i karakterističnom petougaonom glavom, bez urezanih motiva i ukrasa. Na dubini od svega pola metra, na ovom lokalitetu REGIONALNA RAZVOJNA AGENCIJA Bjelasica, Komovi & Prokletije otkrivena je i kuća iz bronzanog doba, u kojoj je, oko ognjišta, nađen veliki broj cijelih keramičkih sudova, koštanih alatki, pijuka od jelenskih rogova, igala, šila i probadača. Sve ukazuje na to da se radi o ljetnjem sezonskom naselju, preteči današnjih katuna. Na ovom lokalitetu pronađena je i poznata ogrlica od vučjih zuba, bakarne igle i keramika. Pronađeni predmeti čuvaju se u Polimskom muzeju u Beranama. people, and it was equipped with four cannons and warehouses for cereal crops. It was under the Ottoman rule until 1912 when it was abandoned. Today the remains of three towers and a Mnogo legendi se pripovijeda o Brativiru, teško pristupačnom vodopadu izuzetne ljepote koji se nalazi nadomak Petnjice. Kažu da je na ovom mjestu nekada davno postojala pećina u kojoj je bilo sakriveno veliko blago. Blago je bilo ukleto, pa se svaki trag gubio onima koji bi pokušali da ga se domognu probijajući se do pećine. Priča se i da su dvije gorštačke porodice bile u zavadi, pa se svaki njihov susret završavao u teškim ranama, a nekad čak i ubistvima. Niko nije water cistern, as well as the lines of the former ramparts reaching up to as much as three metres in height can be identified. Besides the Bihor fortress there was a podgrađe (suburbium) as well, and today that is also the name of a small village, the houses of which are located under the fortification. The remains of the cemetery in Podgrađe are visible, and the toponym of Crkvina (church land) has been preserved as well, which all suggest a long pre-Ottoman tradition in this area. In the vicinity of Petnjica one of the most significant archaeological sites in Montenegro – the locality of Torine, in the Radmanska Gorge, with its famous walledup cave is located as well. Torine is the most valuable and the richest site from the Early Bronze Age – the Eneolithic. A unique female figurine 5,000 years old was found there. The figurine represents a nude woman with a realistically represented torso mogao da ih izmiri, sve do jednog dana kada su dva brata spasila mladića iz one druge porodice dok se davio u vrtlogu nabujalog vodopada. Kada je mladić ispričao šta mu se desilo i ko ga je spasio, njegov dedo i otac poslali su ljude da od bivših neprijatelja traže mir i pobratimstvo. Od tada su mnogi ovdje nalazili mir pa zbog toga i ime Brativir. and characteristic pentagonal head, without carved motifs or ornaments. At a depth of only half a metre, in this locality a house from the Bronze Age was also discovered, in which around the fireplace a large number of fully intact ceramic dishes, bone tools, pickaxes made of deer’s antlers, needles, bradawls and studs were found. Everything indicates that it was a summer seasonal settlement, a precursor of today’s shepherds’ katuns. In this locality a well-known wolf’s teeth necklace, copper needles and ceramics were found, too. The discovered objects are kept in the Museum of the Polimlje Region in Berane. Many legends have been told about Brativir, a barely accessible waterfall of extraordinary beauty, which is located near Petnjica. It is said that in this place once upon a time there was a cave in which an immense treasure was hidden. The treasure was cursed, so that every trace of those who would try to retrieve it disappeared making their way towards the cave. It is said as well that two families of highlanders were in a quarrel, and every encounter between them used to end in severe wounding, and sometimes even in murder. No one could reconcile them, until one day two brothers rescued a young man from the other family from was drowning in the whirlpool of the swollen waterfall. When the young man recounted what had happened to him and who had rescued him, his grandfather and his father sent people to seek peace and blood brotherhood with their former enemies. Since then many people have found peace here and therefore it became known as Brativir (brat = brother; vir = whirlpool).
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