Giornata Mapic 2014 - Dati Mercato UE + Russia

GIORNATA MAPIC 2014
Milano, 15 aprile
PROGRAMMA DI INTERNAZIONALIZZAZIONE: PERCORSO GUIDATO FRA DATI DI MERCATO UE
E FOCUS MERCATO RUSSO
Vincenzo Rialdi
Amministratore Delegato e Direttore Tecnico Vevy Europe
Presidente Mapic ‐ EFfCI Board Member
L’INDUSTRIA DELLA COSMETICA
USA
59.000 (40)
mll €
JAPAN 30.000 (30)
mll €
Cosmetica europea
settore dinamico e vibrante
che rappresenta un terzo del mercato cosmetico globale.
2/22
Fonte: Cosmetics Europe
EU 27* 72.000 (71)
mll €
Vincenzo Rialdi
IL MERCATO COSMETICO EUROPEO
2008 2009 2010 2011 
1
1
1
1 =
2
2
2
2 =
4
3
4
4 
3
4
3
3 
5
5
5
5 =
6
6
6
6 =
7
7
7
7 =
12
9
8
10 
8
8
9
8 
9
11
10
9 
13
13
11
11 =
10
12
12
12 =
14
14
13
13 =
15
15
15
14 =
18
18
16
16 
17
16
17
17 
11
10
14
15 
16
17
18
18 =
19
19
19
19 =
20
20
20
20 =
21
21
21
21 =
22
22
22
22 =
23
23
24
24 
24
24
23
23 
25
25
25
25 =
26
26
26
26 =

3/22
2012 COUNTRY
1 GERMANY
2 FRANCE
3 UNITED KINGDOM
4 ITALY
5 SPAIN
6 NETHERLANDS
7 POLAND
8 SWITZERLAND
9 BELGIUM / LUXEMBURG
10 SWEDEN
11 PORTUGAL
12 AUSTRIA
13 NORWAY
14 DENMARK
15 FINLAND
16 ROMANIA
17 GREECE
18 CZECH REPUBLIC
19 HUNGARY
20 IRELAND
21 SLOVAKIA
22 BULGARIA
23 LITHUANIA
24 SLOVENIA
25 LATVIA
26 ESTONIA
TOTAL
%
17,8
14,5
14,1
13,4
9,4
3,9
3,8
3,0
2,7
2,4
1,8
1,8
1,7
1,4
1,3
1,2
1,2
1,1
0,9
0,9
0,7
0,4
0,2
0,2
0,2
0,1
100,0
PROGR. 2012 RSP 2011 RSP 2010 RSP 2009 RSP 2008 RSP 12‐11 2012 2011 12‐11
%
mll € (B) mll € (B) mll € (B) mll € (B) mll € (B)
%
SMEs SMEs
%
17,8 12.851
12.673
12.792 12.629
12.604
1,40 399 318
2,0
32,2 10.455
10.211
10.725 10.517
10.746
2,39 618 691
‐1,8
46,3 10.191
9.628
9.261
9.108
9.072
5,85 305 295
0,2
59,7
9.655
9.834
9.653
8.855
9.142 ‐1,82 686 723
‐0,9
69,0
6.772
7.037
7.134
4.502
7.781 ‐3,77 409 400
0,2
73,0
2.837
2.804
2.783
2.779
2.719
1,18
95
92
0,1
76,8
2.761
2.677
2.754
2.361
2.632
3,14 344 378
‐0,8
79,8
2.165
1.625
1.982
1.768
1.333 33,23 146 146
0,0
82,5
1.960
1.918
1.881
1.850
1.810
2,19
69
77
‐0,2
84,9
1.736
1.793
1.595
1.299
1.594 ‐3,18 184 169
0,4
86,7
1.313
1.487
1.539
1.292
1.125 ‐11,70
65
63
0,0
88,5
1.274
1.325
1.361
1.233
1.391 ‐3,85
77
79
0,0
90,2
1.264
1.224
1.189
1.066
1.110
3,27
27
30
‐0,1
91,7
1.047
1.069
967
967
1.026 ‐2,06
33
34
0,0
92,9
904
898
929
808
794
0,67
16
20
‐0,1
94,1
893
843
879
848
915
5,93
64
63
0,0
95,3
846
931
1.045
1.375
1.380 ‐9,13
81
98
‐0,4
96,4
772
784
875
835
949 ‐1,53 124 126
0,0
97,3
677
659
684
651
705
2,73 125 117
0,2
98,2
656
653
676
581
611
0,46
10
9
0,0
98,9
488
341
441
431
486 43,11
22
22
0,0
99,3
279
264
268
256
243
5,68
78
68
0,2
99,5
156
144
147
197
215
8,33
5
5
0,0
99,7
155
152
163
164
172
1,97
23
24
0,0
99,9
114
88
88
91
108 29,55
23
18
0,1
100,0
91
85
87
88
94
7,06
5
1
0,1
72.312
71.147
71.898 66.551
70.757
1,64 4.033 4.066 ‐0,81
Fonte: Cosmetics Europe – Elaborazione dati: Mapic
Vincenzo Rialdi
EXPORT INTRA/EXTRA EU27
2012
trn. pos
2
1
3
4
5
7
9
6
20
18
10
12
21
14
24
16
19
17
11
23
22
15
25
26
8
13
4/22
2012 COUNTRY
1 FRANCE
2 GERMANY
3 UNITED KINGDOM
4 ITALY
5 SPAIN
6 POLAND
7 BELGIUM / LUXEMBURG
8 NETHERLANDS
9 IRELAND
10 CZECH REPUBLIC
11 SWEDEN
12 AUSTRIA
13 SLOVAKIA
14 DENMARK
15 SLOVENIA
16 ROMANIA
17 HUNGARY
18 GREECE
19 PORTUGAL
20 LITHUANIA
21 BULGARIA
22 FINLAND
23 LATVIA
24 ESTONIA
SWITZERLAND
NORWAY
TOTAL
2012 RSP TOT EXP EU27 EXP INT UE27 EXP INT EXP EXT UE27 EXP EXT
2012 mll €
%
2012 mll €
%
mll € (B)
2012 mll €
10.455
10.446
5.060
48,4
5.386
51,6
12.851
6.762
3.716
55,0
3.046
45,0
10.191
3.470
2.281
65,7
1.189
34,3
9.655
2.779
1.516
54,6
1.263
45,4
6.772
2.222
1.032
46,4
1.190
53,6
2.761
2.028
1.223
60,3
805
39,7
1.960
1.808
1.216
67,3
592
32,7
2.837
1.248
856
68,6
392
31,4
656
514
315
61,2
199
38,8
772
444
321
72,3
123
27,7
1.736
377
210
55,7
167
44,3
1.274
373
290
77,8
83
22,2
488
301
291
96,9
9
3,1
1.047
297
195
65,7
102
34,3
155
270
161
59,7
109
40,3
893
227
59
26,1
168
73,9
677
201
118
59,0
82
41,0
846
148
107
72,2
41
27,8
1.313
123
89
72,4
34
27,6
156
85
21
24,1
65
75,9
279
74
39
52,2
36
47,8
904
61
24
38,8
37
61,2
114
58
24
42,1
33
57,9
91
29
16
55,6
13
44,4
2.165
1.264
72.312
34.343
19.180
15.163
Fonte: Cosmetics Europe – Elaborazione dati: Mapic
EXP EXT UE27
2011 mll €
5.028
2.794
1.020
1.154
1.020
736
976
315
175
108
160
75
8
107
119
123
66
32
26
51
31
32
29
8
14.193
Vincenzo Rialdi
LA SPESA PRO CAPITE
2010
2
1
3
4
5
7
6
10
8
12
11
9
13
14
15
18
19
16
17
20
22
21
25
23
24
26
5/22
2011
2
1
4
3
5
7
6
11
10
8
12
9
14
13
15
22
18
16
17
19
21
20
24
23
25
26





=









=





=



=
=
2012 COUNTRY
1 SWITZERLAND
2 NORWAY
3 DENMARK
4 SWEDEN
5 BELGIUM / LUXEMBURG
6 NETHERLANDS
7 FINLAND
8 UNITED KINGDOM
9 FRANCE
10 ITALY
11 GERMANY
12 AUSTRIA
13 IRELAND
14 SPAIN
15 PORTUGAL
16 SLOVAKIA
17 SLOVENIA
18 GREECE
19 CZECH REPUBLIC
20 POLAND
21 ESTONIA
22 HUNGARY
23 LATVIA
24 LITHUANIA
25 ROMANIA
26 BULGARIA
TOTAL
2012
trn. pos
8
13
14
10
9
6
15
3
2
4
1
12
20
5
11
21
24
17
18
7
26
19
25
23
16
22
2012 RSP
PEOPLE
PURCHASE PURCHASE PURCHASE 12‐11
mll € (B) unit (2011) 2012 € p.c. 2011 € p.c. 2010 € p.c. € p.c.
2.165
7.858.800
275
207
252
69
1.264
4.623.000
273
265
257
9
1.047
5.475.791
191
195
177
‐4
1.736
9.082.995
191
197
176
‐6
1.960 10.782.374
182
178
174
4
2.837 16.645.200
170
168
167
2
904
5.325.587
170
169
174
1
10.191 62.041.708
164
155
156
9
10.455 65.447.374
160
156
164
4
9.655 60.494.632
160
163
153
‐3
12.851 82.438.000
156
154
155
2
1.274
8.356.707
152
159
163
‐6
656
4.422.100
148
148
153
1
6.772 46.954.694
144
150
152
‐6
1.313 11.317.192
116
131
136
‐15
488
5.389.180
91
63
82
27
155
2.055.942
75
74
79
1
846 11.295.002
75
82
93
‐8
772 10.467.542
74
75
84
‐1
2.761 38.073.745
73
70
72
2
91
1.340.122
68
63
65
4
677 10.076.581
67
65
68
2
114
2.267.886
50
39
39
11
156
3.436.561
45
42
43
3
893 22.246.862
40
38
40
2
279
7.973.673
35
33
34
2
72.312 515.889.250
140
138
139
2
Fonte: Cosmetics Europe – Elaborazione dati: Mapic
Vincenzo Rialdi
IL MERCATO DEGLI INGREDIENTI
2012 RSP
2012 COUNTRY
mll € (B)
1 GERMANY
12.851
2 FRANCE
10.455
3 UNITED KINGDOM
10.191
4 ITALY
9.655
5 SPAIN
6.772
6 NETHERLANDS
2.837
7 POLAND
2.761
8 SWITZERLAND
2.165
9 BELGIUM / LUXEMBURG
1.960
10 SWEDEN
1.736
11 PORTUGAL
1.313
12 AUSTRIA
1.274
13 NORWAY
1.264
14 DENMARK
1.047
15 FINLAND
904
16 ROMANIA
893
17 GREECE
846
18 CZECH REPUBLIC
772
19 HUNGARY
677
20 IRELAND
656
21 SLOVAKIA
488
22 BULGARIA
279
23 LITHUANIA
156
24 SLOVENIA
155
25 LATVIA
114
26 ESTONIA
91
TOTAL
72.312
6/22
MIN
10%
1.285
1.046
1.019
966
677
284
276
217
196
174
131
127
126
105
90
89
85
77
68
66
49
28
16
16
11
9
7.231
Fonte: Cosmetics Europe – Elaborazione dati: Mapic
AVG
15%
1.928
1.568
1.529
1.448
1.016
426
414
325
294
260
197
191
190
157
136
134
127
116
102
98
73
42
23
23
17
14
10.847
MAX
20%
2.570
2.091
2.038
1.931
1.354
567
552
433
392
347
263
255
253
209
181
179
169
154
135
131
98
56
31
31
23
18
14.462
Vincenzo Rialdi
LA COMPOSIZIONE DEI CONSUMI
SETTORE
7/22
%
Cura della pelle
25,2 %
Igiene‐Cura personale
25,4 %
Cura dei capelli
21,3 %
Profumeria
15,1 %
Decorativa
13,0 %
Fonte: Cosmetics Europe
Vincenzo Rialdi
GLI ADDETTI
Impiegati Diretti
8/22
200,000
(200,000)
Impiegati Indiretti
1,300,000
(1,500,000)
Personale Tecnico
Total
1,500,000
(1,700,000)
Studenti Life Science
500,000
Impiegati
975,000
Fonte: Cosmetics Europe
25,000
Vincenzo Rialdi
IL MOTORE DEL SETTORE
Innovazione linfa vitale dell’industria cosmetica.
Ogni anno un quarto dei prodotti cosmetici
approvato e lanciato ex novo sul mercato per incontrare le aspettative di milioni di consumatori.
9/22
Fonte: Cosmetics Europe
Vincenzo Rialdi
COSMETIC MARKET INVESTIGATION
B
R
I
C
S
R
U
N
H
TH
A
S
D
I
A
S
S
I
N
F
I
I
A
A
R
L
A
I
C
A
WORLD COSMETIC MARKET
310 bll € 2010
340-350 bll € 2011 (E)
Other
15%
Russia
3%
China
6%
Brazil
9%
Japan
9%
EU (27 countries),
Norway, Switzerland
23%
USA
12%
Asia (excl. Japan, China)
23%
11/22
Source: RBC Research
Vincenzo Rialdi
RUSSIAN COSMETIC MARKET ‐ VALUE IN €
14,0
12,0
10,0
8,0
10,8
11,1
11,0
2011
2012 E
2013 F
11,6
12,5
9,0
7,8
6,0
4,0
2,0
0,0
2009
12/22
2010
Source: RBC Research
2014 F
2015 F
Vincenzo Rialdi
IMPORT VS INTERNAL PRODUCTION
30%
Domestic
Imported
70%
13/22
Source: RBC Research
Vincenzo Rialdi
IMPORT TO RUSSIA (2011)
Other
23%
Spain
2%
France
27%
Belgium
3%
Great
Britain
3%
China
4%
14/22
USA
7%
Germany
13%
Italy
8%
Source: RBC Research
Poland
10%
Vincenzo Rialdi
MARKET SEGMENTS
Perfumery
Skin care
Colour cosmetics
Hair care
Bath care
Sun care
Deodorants
Depilation cosmetics
Male grooming
Other
15/22
Source: RBC Research
Vincenzo Rialdi
COSMETICS PRODUCERS
• About 400+ cosmetic producers
• About 320 contract manufacturers + own brand
• About 80 own brand only
• 10‐12 big manufacturers
• Local biggest cosmetic manufacturer: Kalina
16/22
Source: PCAR
Vincenzo Rialdi
MAIN COSMETICS PRODUCERS
Key cosmetic manufacturers in Russia
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
L’Oréal*
Avon*
Kalina (Unilever)
Nevskaya Kosmetika
Faberlic
Arnest
Svoboda
Vesna
Alfa Cosmetics
Mezoplast
Unikosmetik
* Produces some products locally
17/22
Source: RBC Research
Vincenzo Rialdi
GEOGRAPHIC LOCATIONS
18/22
Source: PCAR
Vincenzo Rialdi
INGREDIENTS SUPPLIERS
• About 20 official ingredients distributors
• About 5 official ingredients local producers (SMEs)
19/22
Source: PCAR
Vincenzo Rialdi
CURRENTLY REQUESTED INGREDIENTS
«Natural» claims attractive for consumers
Most popular ingredients:
• Minerals
• Collagen
• Herbal components
Different targets for Russian comsumers
• Elder consumers:
preference for products bearing natural claims, containing herbal
ingredients
• Younger consumers:
preference for innovative products, proteins, aminoacids, minerals, UV protection
20/22
Source: RBC Research
Vincenzo Rialdi
REGULATORY STATUS
Customs Union of Russia, Belarus, Kazakhstan:
Regulatory deed in transition
• Since July 2012
• Fully entrance in force by July 2014
Cosmetic Regulation
• Harmonization close to EU Cosmetic Regulation
• Almost same ingredients lists
Ingredients Regulation
• No REACh/CLP similar Regulation ongoing
• Complete documentation of the producer (TDS/MSDS)
• Significant restrictions for Ethanol and derivatives
21/22
Source: PCAR
Vincenzo Rialdi
REPRESENTATIVES
Institution
22/22
Name
Position
e-mail
PCAR
Perfumery and Cosmetics
Association of Russia
Tatiana Puchkova
Chairman
tpuchkova2@mail.ru
Alexandra Skorobogatova
Executive Director
alex@pcar.ru
Studio legale Legalife
Massimiliano Ballotta
Associate
massimiliano.ballotta@legalife.ru
Studio legale Carnelutti
Pietro Ferrero
Associate
pietro.ferrero@carnelutti.ru
Studio legale
IC & Partners Group
Mauro Galluzzo
Associate
mauro.galluzzo@icpartnersrussia.com
Camera di Commercio
Italo-Russa
Marisa Florio
Direttore
ccir.florio@mosca.ru
ICE
Istituto per il
Commercio Estero
Maurizio Forte
Direttore
m.forte@ice.it
Acilio Rizzello
Responsabile
a.rizzello@ice.it
Banco Popolare
Maurizio Zucchetti
Direttore
maurizio.zucchetti@bancopopolare.it
UBI Banca
Ferdinando Pelazzo
Direttore
cisubi@gmail.com
Vincenzo Rialdi

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