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PRODUCT NAME
WAVE CONTROL
DESCRIPTION
"CURL TREATMENT"
"FRIZZ-IN TREATMENT"
Complete Treatment for Curly Hair – It Repairs and Keeps Natural
Hair Curls
Copolymer of hydroxyethylcellulose and diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride,
polymeric quaternary ammonium salt consisting of acrylamide and dimethyl
diallyl ammonium chloride monomers and, hydrolyzed wheat protein.
COMPOSITION
INCI NAME
Polyquaternium 4
Polyquaternium 7
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
CAS NUMBER
92183-41-0
26590-05-6
70084-87-6
EINECS/ELINCS
-
COMPONENTS DESCRIPTION
1.
POLYQUATERNIZED ACRYLAMIDE DERIVATIVES
Quaternized polyacrylamides are excellent in helping disentangling hair
strands. They neutralize negative electric charges while forming a film that
lubricates and protects hair strands.
The first visible result is the reduction of hair dryness. This is because the
more substantive the film, lower the transepidermic loss of water (TWEL) will be.
Concomitantly, the “fly-away” effect will be prevented.
The polymeric agent’s conditioning effect is based on its capacity of
depositing some components on the hair surface. These functional components
promote adherence and resistance to frequent washings.
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2.
COPOLYMERS OF HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE AND
DIMETHYLDIALLYLAMMONIUM CHLORIDE
These conditioning polymers are extremely substantive to the hair and have
been suggested as "sensorial modifiers". In other words, they impart softness
and smoothness to the hair. In curly hair, it forms a transparent film on the curls
in such a way that curls will be preserved and fixed without presenting the
undesirable build-up effect. In addition, these polymers will not promote an oily
aspect to the hair.
These polymers derive from quaternized cellulose and provide additional
properties to the hair. For instance, they allow the hair to be combed more
easily, promote great shine and a slippery feel.
The following tests were made with these polymers:
CURL RETENTION
Cellulose-derived polymers
Cellulose-derived polymers
PVP K-30
PVP/VA 70/30
Time (minutes)
SUBSTANTIVITY - Lumicrease Dye Test Method
The cationic deposition of conditioning polymers can be evaluated by using
samples of wool dyed with a sulfonated anionic polyazo dye after being treated
with a cationic polymer. Due to its anionic character, the dye is attracted by the
cationic polymer.
Regarding adsorption and electrical charges, wool is similar to human hair.
It can be used as an efficient substitute in hair tests. A brightness meter was
used to measure adsorption in each sample.
Decrease of Substantivity
After 10 washings
After 2 washings
Control
{
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
Copolymers of hydroxyethil cellulose
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The
thermo
gravimetric
analysis
determines the amount of moisture retained
by a certain polymer. In hair, this should be
understood as softness, health and shine.
These cellulose-derived polymers promote an
improvement of 24% in moisture retention
when compared with a water control only.
Polymer at 2% compared to pure
water standard.
Apparatus: Thermo gravimetric
Analyzer TGA7
Moisture Retention
Weight (mg)
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HYDRATION - THERMOGRAVIMETRIC ANALYSIS
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65
Time (minutes)
TGA7, 0% Rh, 25ºC
3. WHEAT PEPTIDES AND AMINO ACIDS
Human hair is composed mainly by keratin. It is a protein rich in essential
amino acids, specially the sulfur-rich amino acids cystine and cysteine. These
amino acids link themselves to the hair by covalent links. Despite the human
hair composition, the proteins derived from plants, particularly from wheat, are
more substantive to hair. Thus, it is proven that they protect the hair more
efficiently than keratin.
This special protein hydrolyzed presents a high content of free amino acids
and small peptides.
PROTEIC MATTER – AVERAGE COMPOSITION
Smaller
peptides
Larger
peptides
Free amino acids
Average molecular weight: 500 D
The main benefits of this special wheat-hydrolyzed for the hairs are the
following:
• Repairs damaged keratin;
• Gives body and volume;
• Helps retaining the moisture on the hair strands surface;
• Prevents hair strands swelling, and consequently, keratin solubilization
caused by permanent waving and dyeing processes;
• Reduces the irritation provoked by surfactants.
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3.1. EFFICACY TESTS
Typical Composition
of free amino acids (g/100g)
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The enzymatic procedure to obtain wheat protein derivatives at low
temperatures and neutral pH, avoids both glutamine and asparagine deamidation
(both accounting for more than 30% of the total amount of amino acids).
Therefore, this is the ideal procedure because it allows glutamine and asparagine
to link perfectly to hair keratin, since their isotonic values are sensibly higher.
The special hydrolysis provides a
FREE AMINO ACIDS – COMPOSITION (%)
special mixture of small amino acids and
GLI-NH2
small peptides with better properties for hair
LEU
permeation. It forms an intracuticular film
SER
I-LE
that results in more substantivity to the
TIR
TRE
hair.
ALA
VAL
ASP-NH2
PHE 0
GLI
GLU
MET
PRO
CIS
ASP
LIS
HIS
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
3.1.1. Substantivity
Wheat peptides and amino acids (MW
~1,500 D) were tested against hydrolyzed
wheat proteins with an average MW of
5,000 D and 100,000 D. None of the compared proteins included free amino
acids in their compositions.
Adsorption of protein matter
1. In aqueous solution: 40g of hair were immersed in 200ml of water
containing 5% of the protein solution at 25ºC and pH=5.5 for 2.5 hours. The
control is treated likewise, but with water only. The non-absorbed peptides are
rinsed off for 2 minutes with hot water.
2. In shampoos: 40g of hair are immersed in an aqueous solution with 3%
of a shampoo (none of the components contain free nitrogen) and left to rest for
3 minutes (5% of the protein solution). Next, the same washing process is
performed.
The results are measured by chromatography, more specifically by "gel
filtration chromatography of extracted protein substance".
Results
The substantivity results in water for virgin hair and for chemically treated
hair are shown in Figure 1.
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7
6
5
4
3
2
1
0
Figure 2
Damaged
hair
Virgin
hair
wheat
peptides
and amino
acids
WPH B 5.000 D WPH C 100.000 D
peptide/hair (mg/g)
Figure 1
peptide/hair (mg/g)
0.8
0.7
0.6
0.5
0.4
0.3
0.2
0.1
0
Damaged
hair
Virgin hair
wheat WPH B 5.000 D WPH C 100.000 D
peptides
and
amino
As noted above, the substantivity scale increases from the lowest molecular
weight to the highest molecular weight for both virgin hair and damaged hair.
Hair hydration
Beauty and hair health are closely related to the hair water content. The
hair surface water loss promotes a decrease in intracuticular cohesion. The
results in desquamation, breaking, shine loss and split ends.
Substantive
hydrolyzed proteins form a protective film on the hair surface. They keep water
in the hair strands while the amino acids permeate the cuticles carrying water
molecules to the hair interior. They act like an intracellular cement and keratin
matrix repairer.
A direct gravimetric method was used to evaluate the water retention level
inside the hair strands.
Method: Hair pre-treated with 5% protein aqueous solution (pH = 5.5) and
non-treated hair (control) were incubated at 20ºC in sealed containers with
relative humidity of 76%. The hair weight change (%) is measured after 72
hours. Next, hair tresses are incubated (relative humidity of 50%) and weighted
again after 72 hours.
Change in weight of hair (%)
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The substantivity in shampoos is shown in Figure 2.
Hidratyon of treated hair a.a and wheat ppt
12
8
6
4
%
WAVE CONTROL
Control
10
2
Retained water
Released water
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Substantivity after repeated applications - "Cement-like Test"
The same test as the one described for substantivity based on peptides
adsorption is performed in a virgin hair. However, the substantivity was
measured after several applications.
Adsorption of wheat peptides
and amino acids by virgin hair
Substantivity test for repeated applications
2.5
adsorbed peptides/hair (mg/g)
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Wheat amino acids and peptides increase significantly the water amount
retained in the hair. They prevent from hair dehydration and keep the hair healthy.
2.4
2.3
2.2
2.1
2
1.9
1.8
1.7
1.6
1.5
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
number of applications
Conclusion
The retention of peptides by human hair increases proportionally according
to the number of applications before reaching a plateau after the sixth
application.
Hair protection
Chemical treatments like permanent waving and dyeing processes cause
hair swelling. When wheat peptides and amino acids are included in hair
preparations, they help to prevent from swelling and may reduce keratin
damages.
In conclusion, hair swelling is significantly reduced when hair is treated with
the wheat hydrolyzed described above. When compared to a normal hydrolyzed
available in the market (MW 5,000 D) wheat amino acids and peptides produce
superior effect.
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Protection
ofinchamento
swelling hair
alkalis por álcalis
Proteção do
docaused
cabelo by
Provocado
Cabelo pré-tratado com
5% hidrolisado mais NaOH 0,1%
ppt e a.a
1% Hidrolisado mais NaOH 0,1%
WPH 5,000 D
NaOH 0,1%
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
%
% inchamento
swelling
WHY TO USE IT?
After evaluating the tests results mentioned above we conclude that the use
of WAVE CONTROL in hair products is extremely useful. This is because it
gathers a great number of important benefits required specially for curly hair.
These benefits are described below:
Two repairing polymers that keep natural curls and repair completely the
hair, bringing life to permed hair or natural curly, day after day.
Cement-like repair – Wheat amino acids promote better absorption by both
virgin and damaged hair. They promote the effect of NUTRITION AND
RECONSTITUTION of hair strands. They are the most appropriate products for
the ideal hair treatment since they provide shine, softness and conditioning that
are characteristics typical of non-damaged hair. This is because the amino acids
carry water molecules linked to their own molecules.
• Therefore, HYDRATED HAIR = CONDITIONED HAIR with no fly-away
effect, shapeless curls.
• REPAIR OF DAMAGED KERATIN, RESTRUCTURING ACTION, acting
like a cohesion agent among the corneocytes.
• HIGHER WATER RETENTION ON THE SURFACE AND INSIDE THE HAIR
through a non-occlusive regulation of water loss by hair, thus
providing better hydration.
• GIVES BODY AND VOLUME TO HAIR. It hinders the distention or
rupture of hair strands and keratin solubilization during permanent
waving and dyeing processes.
WAVE CONTROL® - THE IDEAL ACTIVE INGREDIENT FOR CURLY
AND PERMED HAIR TO KEEP AND REPAIR HAIR CURLS.
WAVE CONTROL
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APPLICATION/USE
Shampoos rinse-off and leave-on conditioners.
SUGGESTED CONCENTRATION
From 0.5% to 3.0%.
WAVE CONTROL
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BIBLIOGRAPHICAL REFERENCES
• Frosch, P.J. and Klingman, A.M. – The soap chamber test. A new method for assessing the
irritancy of soaps. J Am Acad Dermatol 1,35-41, 1974.
• Frosch, P.J. and Klingman, A.M. – The Dhuring chamber. An improved technique for
epicutaneous testing of irritant and allergic reactions. Contact Dermatitis 5,73-79, 1979.
• Murahata, R.I., Crowe, D. and Roheim, J.R. – The use of transepidermal water loss to
•
measure and predict the irritation response to surfactants. Int J Cosmet Sci 8,225-231,
1986.
Hamami, J. and Marks, R. – Functional and structural alterations in apparently noninflamed skin. J Invest Dermatol 84, 448, 1995.
Document
Elaborated by:
Revised by:
Approved by:
Controlled by:
Marketing Dept.
D&R Dept.
MKT Director
Quality Assurance
The information contained in this literature is provided in good faith. We recommend our product to be tested prior to its use, to
find out the convenience of its application and adopting it at an industrial level. Such information should not be understood as a
concession or allowance for using methods or compositions covered by any patent.
Reproduction and distribution of this material without prior authorization from CHEMYUNION QUÍMICA LTDA. are forbidden.
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