SOIL EROSION CONTROL
FOR
SINGLE FAMILY DWELLING
CONSTRUCTION
ONTARIO COUNTY SOIL AND WATER CONSERVATION DISTRICT
480 NORTH MAIN STREET
CANANDAIGUA NY 14424
585-396-1450
www.ontswcd.com
ontswcd@rochester.rr.com
INTRODUCTION
Building a new home is an exciting project. Creating the perfect home begins with finding
the perfect site. Preserving the natural beauty of the location, which may well be the reason
for selecting the site, should be the first priority.
There is a distinct possibility, during construction, of damaging the quality of the
lakes, streams, and environment which you appreciate and intend to enjoy. Soil
erosion from building sites harms water bodies by allowing sediment to enter the
water. Muddy streams, muddy lakes and degraded landscapes result.
Sediments also carry nutrients (nitrogen and phosphorus) into the water and support the
growth of algae and water weeds. 1 lb of phosphorus supports the growth of 500 lbs of
water weeds.
Erosion control during construction is important to preserve the value of your property. By
safeguarding your home site against the damaging effects of uncontrolled runoff and soil
erosion, you ensure the continued purity of adjacent streams and lakes and the continued
beauty of the landscape. The guidelines in this publication will help you prevent damage to
your site, improve the appearance of your property, and protect the landscape that you love.
PLANNING NOTES:
Onsite Wastewater Treatment (Septic) Systems are common features of rural homes.
New York State Department of Health law requires these systems be designed by a licensed
professional. Absorption fields require adequate space to absorb about 75 gallons of water
per occupant of the house. Room for replacement or expansion of the field should be part of
your plan. Be sure that you are following all local requirements for percolation tests, proper
installation and inspection. Call Ontario County SWCD 585-396-1450 for more information
or your local County Soil and Water Conservation District.
Ongoing Access to the septic tank for pumping and maintenance will be necessary. Septic
tanks should be pumped and inspected for structural integrity every 3 – 5 years. Don't build
anything over any part of the wastewater treatment system.
Private Water Wells should be located uphill from the wastewater treatment system, and
must be at least 50 feet from a septic tank and 100 feet from the absorption field.
Stormwater runoff should be diverted from the well head and animals kept away from it.
Locating the well as far away from pollution sources as practicable is a good idea.
The majority of easily developed properties near the Finger Lakes already have houses on
them. Many of the remaining sites are small, steep, unstable, poorly drained or are difficult
to access. While some of the problems can be overcome, the costs can be considerable.
This booklet has been prepared by Edith Davey, Ontario County NY Soil and Water Conservation
District Conservation Educator, using the best currently available information, as an informal guide to
issues encountered during the construction of single family dwellings by their owners.
SOME REGULATIONS APPLY
A New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) State Pollutant
Discharge Elimination System
(SPDES) Permit
for Stormwater Discharge from
Construction Activity (GP-) must be obtained if you will disturb or expose one or more acres
of soil. Clearing vegetation, grubbing stumps, filling, grading, excavating, and demolishing
existing structures are activities included in construction. You are responsible for obtaining
coverage under the SPDES Permit before construction begins and for maintaining erosion
and sediment control measures until the site has been stabilized.
Disturbance areas must be calculated to include the house footprint, driveways, excavation
for wastewater treatment systems and pipes as well as the lawn area or any other area that
removes natural cover. Other structures such as storage sheds or garages erected at the
same time must also be included in the disturbance area.
Steep slope regulations have been instituted by many municipalities. Building permits for
some sites may be subject to these regulations.
Permits and regulations change and are not uniform from one jurisdiction to the next.
Persons engaged in housebuilding should always be sure they are complying with all local,
state and federal requirements.
House plans should be adapted to fit a steep site, rather than drastically altering the
landscape in order to accommodate a house plan better suited to a flat site.
Locations on cliffs next to lakes or streams may be subject to slumping soils and/or unstable
soil or rock substrate. A geo-technical engineer can advise you of possible difficulties.
Cutting trees near a steep slope to “improve the view” may eventually allow the cliff or slope
to slide away. Tree stump roots will hold soil and stone in place for about ten years until they
rot. A better idea is to trim tree branches up and bushes down to open a view – and leave
the stabilizing roots alive and in place. Plant trees to replace any that die.
SPECIAL PROBLEMS OF LAKESIDE OR STREAMSIDE DEVELOPMENT
Streamside locations require careful consideration even if the stream rarely floods.
New development will generate additional runoff because of increased impervious surface
areas and decreased infiltration, and cause future flooding. Additional runoff may foster
streambank erosion, uproot vegetation or re-route channels. Such problems are difficult and
costly to repair or control.
Allow a good margin of safety if you are thinking of locating near a stream. The size of a
stream in August is not the same as in March during snow-melt runoff. Under natural
conditions, stream beds move through the landscape over time. Flood events can alter
stream courses rapidly. Check the size and condition of the stream bed for clues to the
stream's history and future. The size of stones moved by the stream will give you some
indication of the power of the water moving under peak conditions. Ask your potential
neighbors about flooding.
Flooding hazards may be present for both lakeside or streamside development. The US
Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) publishes Flood Hazard Maps
(copies available at Town, County Planning, and Community Development Offices) that
delineate zones of hazard. It is recommended that no development take place within
the 100-year flood plain of a lake or stream. Loans to develop land in such flood plains
may be difficult to obtain.
BEFORE YOU BUILD – SOME SIMPLE DOs and DON'Ts
Do assess your site carefully. Look for
drainage patterns entering and leaving the
property. These must be considered when
planning.
Don't alter the natural landscape more than
is absolutely necessary or locate a structure
in a natural drainage way.
Do protect and preserve valuable trees,
shrubs and groundcover during construction.
Large tree roots prevent steep slopes from
slumping or sliding. Decades will pass before
newly planted trees reach mature size.
Don't remove vegetation, particularly trees
and shrubs, unnecessarily. They are
important for erosion control, shade and
wildlife habitat.
Do use temporary soil erosion control
Don't allow runoff and sediment to enter or
practices (e.g. silt fence, swales) to reduce or leave disturbed areas.
divert runoff from disturbed areas.
Do vegetate waterways and sand and gravel Don't allow waterways or unsightly “borrow”
pits promptly.
areas to contribute to erosion.
Do stockpile existing topsoil, seed it over to
preserve it.
Don't remove topsoil unnecessarily,
causing the expense of replenishing it.
Do establish grasses and legumes promptly
on disturbed areas or use sod for a quick
cover.
Don't leave bare areas of soil that will
contribute to erosion, dust, and
sedimentation.
Do apply mulch to control weeds and erosion Don't leave newly seeded areas
and to conserve moisture.
unprotected against wind and rain.
Do be a good neighbor.
Don't divert runoff water from your
construction site to another property
where it will cause damage.
Do improve recreation areas with grasses,
vines, shrubs, trees and other plants
Don't forget future recreation activities,
wildlife habitat and land uses when
selecting plants.
Do consider stormwater runoff management Don't forget to keep runoff water away from
after construction. Rain gardens, rain
foundations and wastewater treatment
barrels, infiltration trenches and other
system absorption fields.
management practices can help.
BEFORE YOU BUILD
CONTROL WATER FLOW DIRECTION AND VELOCITY. Examine your site to see where
water will flow naturally. Construction plans that accommodate these natural flow patterns
are nearly always more successful and less costly than trying to alter natural patterns. Plan
for ways to control storm water.
STORMWATER CONTROLS should be in place before clearing the site is begun. Rain or
snow melt wait for no one.
MAINTAIN MAXIMUM EXISTING VEGETATION. In a natural landscape, plant roots hold
soil in place. When plants are removed, raw soil is exposed that will quickly blow or wash
away. The quality and quantity of water leaving the site during construction should not be
altered from its natural state.
BEFORE YOU BUILD
PLAN TO PROTECT YOUR SITE
PLAN YOUR TRAFFIC-WAY
Having a drained, properly constructed driveway for vehicle access is one means of
protecting your building site from traffic damage. Trucks and earth moving equipment can
compact soils until they are no more absorbent than brick. Fence off the the site for a waste
water treatment system absorption field. Protecting that area may save you substantial time
and money in avoiding the need for replacement soil.
PLAN TO PRESERVE TOPSOIL
Preserve as much existing topsoil in place as possible. Topsoil that must be stripped from
the site should be stockpiled and saved for reapplication after final grading. Seed or cover
the stockpile with tarps and surround it with silt fence to prevent it washing away.
Topsoil should not be applied or reapplied over a frozen or muddy surface. It should be
promptly fertilized, seeded and mulched.
Different site conditions and intended uses require different topsoil depths. A future lawn
that will be mowed needs 4 to 6 inches of topsoil. An area left “natural” requires only 1 to 2
inches.
Replacing the layer of topsoil over your site will provide a good base for your plantings,
reduce irrigation water requirements and reduce the need for fertilizer.
BEFORE YOU BUILD
PRESERVING TREES DURING CONSTRUCTION
Preserving trees on your building site takes planning and a bit of knowledge about how trees
grow. A large tree in good, deep soil may have as much root mass below ground as
branches above. Disturbing roots, compacting the soil around the roots, or skinning the bark
may quickly destroy the tree.
Keep the soil intact around the base of a tree marked for preservation as far out as the
branches reach. This is the “crown line” or “drip line” of the tree as it represents the point at
which the tree sheds water from its leaves. A temporary fence at the drip line will alert
equipment operators to the area to be protected.
Do not put fill or topsoil above the roots. Tree roots need to breathe, and additional soil – or
too much mulch – will hamper gas exchange. If grade must be changed, get assistance
from a landscape architect, nurseryman, arborist or Cooperative Extension specialist.
Keep heavy equipment away from the root zone. The weight of large trucks or earthmoving
equipment will compact the soil to the extent that air and water can't penetrate the soil.
DURING CONSTRUCTION
CONSTRUCTION ENTRANCE STABILIZATION AND DUST CONTROL
Stabilizing construction entrances will reduce or eliminate tracking mud onto public roads.
Protecting your site from muddy ruts is another benefit. Wheels of construction equipment
can be cleaned on the area before they leave the site.
Geotextile (special fabric made of plastic) should be placed over the entrance area and
covered with 1- 4 inch size gravel to a depth of at least 6 inches. The entrance area covered
should be at least 12 feet wide by 30 feet long, but not less than the full width of the
entrance. More gravel may be added periodically for maintenance.
Dust control is important to prevent off-site damage, health hazards and traffic safety
problems. Cover disturbed areas not subject to traffic with vegetation or use mulch as a
quick means of controlling dust. Sprinkling the site until the surface is wet is effective on haul
roads and access routes. There are spray adhesives available for use on mineral soils.
SOD STABILIZATION
Sod can be used as a quick cover for exposed soils. It will stabilize the soil, protecting
downhill and downstream areas from runoff damage. Installing sod gives homeowners the
benefit of an immediate, weed-free lawn.
RURAL DRIVEWAY CONSTRUCTION
Good driveway construction takes planning, good design and correct installation. Proper
maintenance will be necessary. The driveway should be durable, safe in all weather
conditions, sized to accommodate emergency vehicles and provide safe entry to the road.
PLANNING
Local codes may apply to driveways in the road right-of-way. Most Departments of
Transportation will assist in locating a driveway where lines of sight allow safe entry to the
road.
Well-drained soils with high weight-bearing characteristics make the best driveways. Avoid
wet/sandy soils as they won't bear traffic. Clay soils may become slick. Soil Surveys
available at local county Soil and Water Conservation Districts or at
www.websoilsurvey.nrcs.usda.gov will help you evaluate your soil.
Safe driveways should have no more than a 10% slope. Emergency vehicles and large
trucks (e.g. septic pumpers) must be able to negotiate driveway slopes. Angling the
driveway across the slope can reduce the grade.
A small negative slope at the road entrance will promote drainage. A level or slightly inclined
area at the road entrance affords safer entrance into road traffic.
Maintain natural drainage patterns as much as possible. Runoff issues are common where
drainage patterns are disturbed.
Construct a driveway turnaround (aka. “hammerhead”). Driving onto a road is always safer
than backing out.
The driveway should meet the road at a 90° angle if possible, but angles of 75° -90° may be
acceptable. Check with your local
Code Enforcement Officer local or Highway
Superintendent to help ensure adequate sight distance at the driveway entrance to the road.
DRIVEWAY CONSTRUCTION
Driveways should be crowned (higher in the center) and compacted over the entire surface
(not just in the wheel tracks). A aggregate of mixed stone size such as modified #2A will
bind more effectively than uniformly sized #1 or #1 stone.
Inadequate drainage can result in dangerous flooding, muddy or icy conditions and debris
flows. Highway Law allows Towns to fine landowners for dangerous conditions created by
faulty driveways. Your local Code Enforcement Officer can tell you if you need to hire an
engineer.
DRIVEWAYS ON STEEP (OVER 10%) SLOPES
A driveway angled across a steep slope will intercept runoff. Creating a series of broadbased dips to act as water bars – shallow channels across the drive at an angle of about 60°
- to direct water into established vegetation is one solution. An infiltration area can be
created at the foot of the driveway to absorb runoff before it reaches the road.
Water bars should be spaced as follows:
Slope
Spacing (ft)
Less than 5%
125
5-10%
100
10 -20%
75
20-35 %
50
Greater than 35%
25
Install water bars as soon as the driveway is cleared and graded. Runoff is directed to an
undisturbed area or an area that has been stabilized.
DRIVEWAY CONSTRUCTION
Stone check dams are an effective means of reducing the velocity and erosive power of
runoff. They are generally used in concentrated flow areas, such as drainage ditches
beside driveways. Check dams are not used in streams or channels.
Stone check dams are constructed of a mixture of sizes of stone. Sharp edged stone works
better than rounded rocks as the edges will help the check dams lock together.
Check dams provide relatively good removal of coarse and medium size sediment from
runoff. Most silt and clay particles will pass over or through the voids in the stones.
Suggested spacing:
Ditch Grade (% slope)
Spacing (feet apart)
1
200
2
100
4
50
6
33
Above 6% ditch grade, you may need to flatten the
slope.
8
25
10
20
(Source: Minnesota Urban Small Sites BMP Manual,
Barr Engineering Co.)
As the check dams descend a slope, the toe of the upstream check dam should be level with
the top of the check dam below. This provides a pooling effect.
DURING CONSTRUCTION
CRITICAL AREA SEEDINGS
A critical area is any disturbed, denuded area. Grasses and/or legumes should be
established promptly to reduce erosion and sedimentation. Choose a seeding mixture
appropriate for the area. Consider whether the seeding is to be temporary or permanent;
mowed or not mowed; whether the site is shaded or is on a steep slope.
SOME SEEDING OPTIONS: per acre
PERMANENT
PERMANENT
TO MOW
UNMOWED
PERMANENT
SHADED SITE
TEMPORARY
20 lb Kentucky
bluegrass
20 lb creeping red
fescue
5 lb perennial ryegrass
10 lb creeping red
fescue
15 white clover
15 lb tall fescue
2 lb redtop
Shady, wet site:
80 lb rough bluegrass
35 lb shade tolerant
bluegrass
Spring:
30 lb annual
ryegrass
20 lb creeping red
fescue
8 lb birdsfoot trefoil
10 lb tall fescue
10 lb creeping red
fescue
2 lb redtop
30 lb flatpea
40 lb creeping red
fescue
20 lb tall fescue
Spring:
80 lb spring oats
15 lb smooth
20 lb tall fescue
bromegrass
30 lb flatpea
5 lb perennial ryegrass
10 lb birdsfoot trefoil
Shady, dry site:
Fall :
120 lb shade tolerant
30 lb annual
Kentucky bluegrass
ryegrass
35 lb perennial ryegrass
120 lb fine fescue
30 lb perennial
ryegrass
40 lb Kentucky
bluegrass
Fall
112 lb winter rye
Fall
12o lb winter
wheat
Fall
112 lb perennial
ryegrass
After seeding, hay or straw mulch should be applied to help establish plant cover. On steep
slopes, woven netting materials may be needed to ensure stability.
DURING CONSTRUCTION
MULCHING
Mulching controls weeds, conserves moisture and holds seeds in place until they take root.
Mulch will also reduce runoff and erosion on the building site. Types of mulch and
application rates are listed in the following table. If needed, use an anchoring material. Hay
and straw are the best mulches for grass/legume establishment used in combination with an
anchoring material. Wood chips and gravel are other commonly used materials that may
need to be removed later if grass is to be planted on the area.
Hydroseeding is a commercially available option, using a mixture of your chosen seed and a
cellulose product (usually recycled paper) mulch. Plastic can be used as an anchoring
material. Netting may be needed on steep slopes.
Materials
Application
rate/1000 sq
ft
Sawdust
83-500 cu. ft. 1-7”
Wood Chips 500-900 lbs.
or shavings
Depth of
Remarks
application
2-7”
Requires 30-35 lbs N/ton to prevent N deficiency
in plantings while decaying.
Requires 10-12 lbs N/ton to prevent N deficiency
in plantings while decaying.
Wood Fiber
Cellulose
50 lbs.
Compost
3-9 cu. yds.
1-3 “
Conserves moisture well.
Gravel or
crushed
stone
9 cu. yds.
3”
Washed, size 2B or 3A – 1½”. Good for short
slopes. Use over filter fabric for better weed
control.
Cover
about 905
of surface
Use where mulch is maintained for more than 3
months. Anchor to prevent wind blowing. Best
micro-environment for germinating seeds.
Hay or straw 90-100 lbs
(2-3 bales)
Peat Moss
Apply with hydromulcher. No tie down required.
Less erosion control than 2 tons of hay or straw.
100-400- cu ft 2” - 4”
Excellent moisture holding capacity. Subject to
blowing unless kept wet.
Jute-Twisted 48 x 50 yds.
Yarn
Use without additional mulch. Tie down
according to manufacturer's instructions.
Plastic
Use 2-4 mils black plastic for weed control.
Conserves moisture well.
Excelsior
wood fiber
mats
I8”X 100” 2sided plastic,
48”X180: 1sided plastic
Straw or
Most are 6.5
coconut
ft X3.5 ft
fiber, or
combination
Use without additional mulch. Tie down .
Excellent for seed establishment. Use 2-sided
plastic for centerline of waterways.
Designed to tolerate higher velocity water flow.,
centerlines of waterways. 60 sq. yds. per roll.
Anchoring Material Mulch Type
How to Apply
Peg and twine
Hay or straw
Divide area into 1 sq. yd. blocks. Drive 4-6 pegs per
block to within 2-3: of soil surface. Stretch twine
between pegs in criss-cross pattern on each block.
Drive pegs flush with soil to tighten twine.
Mulch netting
Hay or straw
Staple paper, jute, wood fiber or plastic netting to soil
surface according to manufacturer's recommendations.
Should be biodegradable. Most products will not
withstand foot traffic.
Wood cellulose fiber Hay or straw
Apply with hydroseeder immediately after mulching.
Use 500 lbs wood fiber per acre. Some products
contain an adhesive material (tackifier).
Soil and stones
Plastic
Plow a single furrow along edge of area. Fold 6” of
plastic into the furrow, plow furrow slice back over
plastic. Use stones to hold plastic down in other places
as needed.
Cut-In
(Mulch anchoring
tool)
Hay or straw
Cut mulch into soil surface with square edged spade or
mulch anchoring tool. Make cuts in contour rows
spaced 18” apart. Most successful on contour in sandy
soils.
Tackifier
Hay or Stray
Mix and apply tackifiers according to manufacturer's
instructions. Do not apply during rain. A 24-hour curing
period and sol temperature higher than 45º F required.
A Note About the Use of Straw Bales: The best use of straw is for mulch.
Straw bales have traditionally been used as a substitute for silt fence or as dikes in drainage
ways to attempt to reduce the velocity of runoff. There was also a mistaken belief that they
filtered runoff water.
However, straw bales act as a barrier, not as a filter and quickly cause concentrated runoff
flows to “blow out” to the sides, causing erosion. They should not be used in drainage ways.
Straw bales are sometimes successfully used to reinforce properly installed silt fence where
an exceptionally secure barrier is needed near a stream or other sensitive area. Bales
should be placed with the cut edge on the ground and staked firmly on the down-hill side of
the silt fence. The bales will degrade after 2-3 months and will need to be replaced. They
should be removed once the site is stabilized.
DURING CONSTRUCTION
TEMPORARY SOIL EROSION CONTROLS: Silt Fence
Silt fence is designed to intercept and detain small amounts of sediments from disturbed
areas. It prevents erosion by decreasing the velocity of sheet runoff and depositing
sediments on the uphill side of the fence.
A typical silt fence consists of a piece of synthetic filter fabric (geotextile) stretched between
a series of wooden or metal fence stakes along a horizontal contour level. The stakes are
installed on the downhill side of the fence, and the bottom edge of the fabric is trenched into
the soil and backfilled on the uphill side.
The stormwater slowly passes through the fabric while depositing its sediments on the uphill
side of the fence. The fence is not designed to concentrate or channel stormwater. The
fence is installed on a site before soil disturbance begins, down-slope from the disturbance
area and arranged so that flow can't bypass the fence. The drainage area should be no
more than ¼ acre per 100 feet of fence.
Silt fence fabric must be solidly embedded a minimum of 6 inches into the ground. It
must be maintained or replaced if damaged or torn. When silt accumulations reach 30% of
the height of the fabric, it should be removed to ensure adequate storage for the next rain
event. Silt fence is not to be used in drainage channels or in areas of concentrated flows.
DURING CONSTRUCTION
TEMPORARY SWALE
A temporary swale is an excavated drainage way built to prevent runoff from entering
disturbed area by intercepting and diverting it to a stabilized outlet.
A swale will also intercept sediment-laden water and divert it to a sediment trapping device.
If a swale is used to prevent flow from entering a disturbed area, a sediment trapping device
may not be necessary.
Swales collecting runoff from disturbed areas are left in place until these areas are
permanenetly stabilized. All temporary swales need to be seeded and mulched.
PERIMETER DIKE / SWALE
A perimeter dike/swale is a temporary ridge of soil excavated from an adjoining swale
located along the edge of the site or disturbed area. It prevents off-site runoff from entering
the construction area.
Runoff from a disturbed upland area should be diverted to a sediment trapping device, while
unoff from a protected or stabilized upland area can go directly onto an undisturbed area.
The disturbed area of the dike and swale should be promptly seeded and mulched.
DURING AND AFTER CONSTRUCTION
PERMANENT EXCAVATED BARRIERS
DIVERSION
A diversion ditch is a permanent drainage way that controls erosion by slowing down the rate
of runoff while intercepting and conveying it to stable outlets.
Diversions should be established below stabilized or protected areas, but should not be used
on slopes greater than 15%. They should have an adequate outlet such as a grassed
waterway, vegetated or paved area, or subsurface drain outlet. All diversions should be
seeded and mulched.
GRASSED WATERWAY
A grassed waterway is a wide, shallow flow channel that conveys runoff down a slope. The
waterway is vegetated or lined for the safe movement of runoff water.
Waterways can be shaped with a grader or a bulldozer, then lined with gravel or filter cloth
and a stone center drain. A stable outlet such as another waterway or stabilized open
channel is needed. Waterways should be seeded and mulched.
Because vegetation must be well established before diversions or other channels are
discharged into them, it may be necessary to use matting or sod as soon as waterways are
constructed. If seeding is chosen, select the appropriate seed mixture for the area. Mulch
the seeded area using an anchoring material on slopes if needed.
AFTER CONSTRUCTION
Replace topsoil, seed and mulch bare soil as quickly as possible.
Remove temporary barriers and silt fence.
Check for problems after heavy precipitation – rain and snow melt.
POST-CONSTRUCTION STORMWATER MANAGEMENT
Infiltration of stormwater into the ground replenishes the groundwater supply that feeds wells
and prevents erosion. Rain gardens are areas designed to absorb stormwater and slow
overland runoff. They are also great wildlife habitat and beautiful installations that require
very little care after they are established.
Raingardens are usually constructed more than 10 feet away from a foundation in the
direction where water would naturally flow over the ground. The planted area should be
fairly level with a shallow berm on the side away from the house. The berm will act as a
level spreader to disperse any overflow evenly over the surface of the landscape.
Native plants that are adapted to short intervals of wet soils are selected for planting as they
will need no fertilizer or pesticide application. Mulch lightly after planting and weed and
water the garden at need for the first year until the plants are established.
Native plants will attract birds and butterflies as they provide food and shelter,
More information about rain gardens is available at the Soil and Water Conservation District
in your county.
AFTER CONSTRUCTION
LANDSCAPE AREA IMPROVEMENT
Establishing grasses, shrubs, trees and other plants will increase its attractiveness while
protecting the soil, reducing noise, providing shade and windbreaks and other benefits.
Planting deciduous trees on the south side of a house will offer shade – and energy savingsduring the summer and allow sunshine to warm the house during the winter. Planting
evergreens where they will provide a windbreak for the driveway in the winter can save
snow removal time.
Choose plantings that will work with future uses. Think about the size your plantings will be
after they reach maturity. Do not plant anything with deep roots near any part of the onsite
wastewater treatment system, particularly any plant that has an affinity for water such as
willow or swamp maple.
Establishing native plants is a rewarding practice. Native plants have adapted to local soil
and climate conditions over millenia and will need much less care and chemical inputs than
tender species. The less time spent in maintenance, the more time available for enjoying
the surroundings.
Native animals are adapted to feeding on and living with native plant species. An area of
natural meadow willl reward you with butterflies, birds and animals that you won't find living
in a lawn of only Kentucky bluegrass. Passage corridors are particularly valuable to wildlife
when they connect other areas of natural vetetation or provide cover on the way to a
watering area.
SOME SOURCES OF INFORMATION
Soil and Water Conservation Districts – In Every County
Maps, Soils Maps
Drainage Advice - Stormwater Managment Technical Assistance
Assistance with Permits
Ponds and Wetlands
Agricultural Districts and Land Valuations
Dry Hydrants (fire protection)
Conservation Tree and Shrub Sales
Farm Pond Fish Stocking Sales
Percolation Tests, Onsite Wastewater Treatment Systems
Town Offices and Code Enforcement Officers
Local Building Codes
Permits
Zoning Regulations
Town Highway Departments
Driveway location and culverts
Cornell Cooperative Extension
Plants, Lawns, Trees
Pest control, Herbicides, Pesticides
DEC Offices
SPDES Permits