contents
8
Introduction
10
M ISE E N PLACE
11
EQU I PM E NT
20
PANTRY I NG R E DI E NTS
27
COOKI NG BASICS
153
Pasta
155
TECH N IQU ES
159
R ECIPES
177
Vegetables
43
Soups
179
TECH N IQU ES
45
TECHNIQU ES
187
R ECIPES
48
R ECIPES
201
Potatoes, Grains,
and Legumes
63
Poultry
65
TECHNIQU ES
204
TECH N IQU ES
72
R ECIPES
207
R ECIPES
93
Meat
227
Eggs
96
TECHNIQU ES
229
TECH N IQU ES
R ECIPES
234
R ECIPES
Fish and Shellfish
247
Starters and Salads
125
TECHNIQU ES
249
TECH N IQU ES
131
R ECIPES
251
R ECIPES
267
Kitchen Desserts
269
TECH N IQU ES
275
R ECIPES
292
CONVE R SIONS AN D EQU IVALE NTS
298
IN DEX
101
123
Knives
In all cases, the hand not holding the knife—your guiding hand—maneuvers the food,
A set of knives may be used more often than any other equipment in your kitchen.
Look for knives that will last. A blade made from high-carbon stainless steel will take
and keep a sharp edge, and it will not discolor or rust readily. Taper-ground blades,
forged from a single sheet of metal, will last longer and have better balance than hollow-
prevents the item from slipping, and helps control the size of the cut. Hold food with
your fingertips, tucking them slightly under and holding your thumb out of the way.
The flat of the blade should rest against your knuckles so you don’t cut your fingertips.
Always try to cut food into pieces of the same shape and size. The basic cuts follow.
ground blades, which are made by fusing together two thinner sheets of metal. A basic
set should include the following types.
Chef’s or French knives
are used for a wide variety of cutting tasks, from chopping onions
1 Chopping
Chef’s knife, slicer, paring knife, and boning knife.
Specialized knives
Filleting knives are similar to boning knives,
but with thin, flexible blades for cutting
between the delicate flesh and bones of fish.
Cleavers, with their large, rectangular blades,
are used widely in Asia. Heavy cleavers can
cut cleanly through bones, while lighter ones
are used for vegetables and garnishes.
Paring knives,
Boning knives,
be perfectly even in shape, but all the pieces should be roughly the same size.
Slicers,
2 Mincing
reduces food to a relatively fine, even cut, useful for vegetables, herbs, and
other flavoring ingredients such as garlic or gingerroot. Roughly chop the food first and
with 2- to 4-inch blades, are designed for peeling and trimming vegetables.
gather it into a pile. Then, holding the knife tip against the cutting board with your
whose narrow, sharply pointed blades offer good maneuverability, are
free hand and using a rocking motion, mince firmly and rapidly to the desired fineness.
used for separating raw meat cleanly from bones.
with long blades, often serrated, are good for cutting even slices of cooked meat
3 Julienne
thin slice from one side of round vegetables to make them more stable as you cut. Slice
the food lengthwise, using parallel cuts of the desired thickness. Stack these rectangular
edge to ease the blade smoothly through food.
slices, aligning their edges, and make a second set of lengthwise cuts through the stack.
but also is safer to use. The more pressure you need to apply to the knife to cut food,
the more damage you can do with a slip of the blade. Using a cutting board made of
2
are long, rectangular cuts, such as for matchstick carrots or French fries. Cut a
or bread. Some slicers have an offset handle for a more comfortable grip, or a fluted
Keep the blades of your knives sharp and well honed. A sharp knife not only cuts better,
1
of a finished dish. Slice or chop the food at nearly regular intervals. The pieces need not
to mincing herbs to slicing meat. Their blades, 6 to 14 inches long, taper from sturdy
heels that can slice through small bones to thin tips that slice mushrooms smoothly.
is used for rustic dishes or for ingredients that will be puréed or strained out
3
Julienne should be very narrow, ⅛ inch. A wider cut, about ¼ inch, is called batonnet.
Straw (paille) is similar to julienne, but cut even more finely. Depending on the food
itself or your preference, the length can vary from 1 to 2½ inches.
produces small, neat cubes. Brunoise, the finest size (⅛ inch), is often used for
wood, plastic, or polyethylene helps preserve a knife’s edge. Cutting on metal, glass,
4 Dicing
or marble surfaces, on the other hand, will dull and eventually damage the blades. Store
a delicate garnish. Fine, medium, and large dice, ranging in size from ¼ inch to ½ inch
knives in racks or holders, not loose in a drawer where their blades may be damaged.
to ¾ inch, appear in a wide variety of preparations. To dice, cut the food lengthwise
4
into slices as thick as the dice you want. Stack these slices and slice again lengthwise to
Knife skills
Learning good knife skills makes for better finished dishes because precise, uniform cuts
allow ingredients to cook at the same rate. For most cutting, grip the knife high on the
handle, at the point where it meets the blade. This grip offers greater stability, control,
and balance than holding the handle farther away from the blade. Grasp the handle
with three fingers, resting your index finger and thumb flat against the blade on either
side. When chopping bones or cutting through harder foods, grip the handle with all
16
I NTRODUCTION
make strips. Gather the strips into a neat stack or line, then cut crosswise into dice.
5 Oblique or roll cut
is used with long, cylindrical vegetables such as carrots and celery,
especially if they will be braised or roasted. Make a diagonal cut to remove the stem
end. Holding the knife in the same position, roll the vegetable a half turn (180 degrees)
5
and slice again to create pieces with different angles at each end. Repeat to cut up the
rest of the vegetable.
are strips of leafy vegetables and herbs, chiffonade being a finer
four fingers and rest your thumb firmly along the top of the blade, close to where it
6 Shredding and chiffonade
meets the handle. For smaller knives, wrap all four fingers around the handle but leave
cut than shredded. Stack a few leaves and roll them tightly lengthwise. With a sharp
your thumb pressed against the side of the blade.
knife, make thin crosswise cuts. Before using the shreds, loosen them with your fingertips.
6
EQUIPMENT
17
Knives
In all cases, the hand not holding the knife—your guiding hand—maneuvers the food,
A set of knives may be used more often than any other equipment in your kitchen.
Look for knives that will last. A blade made from high-carbon stainless steel will take
and keep a sharp edge, and it will not discolor or rust readily. Taper-ground blades,
forged from a single sheet of metal, will last longer and have better balance than hollow-
prevents the item from slipping, and helps control the size of the cut. Hold food with
your fingertips, tucking them slightly under and holding your thumb out of the way.
The flat of the blade should rest against your knuckles so you don’t cut your fingertips.
Always try to cut food into pieces of the same shape and size. The basic cuts follow.
ground blades, which are made by fusing together two thinner sheets of metal. A basic
set should include the following types.
Chef’s or French knives
are used for a wide variety of cutting tasks, from chopping onions
1 Chopping
Chef’s knife, slicer, paring knife, and boning knife.
Specialized knives
Filleting knives are similar to boning knives,
but with thin, flexible blades for cutting
between the delicate flesh and bones of fish.
Cleavers, with their large, rectangular blades,
are used widely in Asia. Heavy cleavers can
cut cleanly through bones, while lighter ones
are used for vegetables and garnishes.
Paring knives,
Boning knives,
be perfectly even in shape, but all the pieces should be roughly the same size.
Slicers,
2 Mincing
reduces food to a relatively fine, even cut, useful for vegetables, herbs, and
other flavoring ingredients such as garlic or gingerroot. Roughly chop the food first and
with 2- to 4-inch blades, are designed for peeling and trimming vegetables.
gather it into a pile. Then, holding the knife tip against the cutting board with your
whose narrow, sharply pointed blades offer good maneuverability, are
free hand and using a rocking motion, mince firmly and rapidly to the desired fineness.
used for separating raw meat cleanly from bones.
with long blades, often serrated, are good for cutting even slices of cooked meat
3 Julienne
thin slice from one side of round vegetables to make them more stable as you cut. Slice
the food lengthwise, using parallel cuts of the desired thickness. Stack these rectangular
edge to ease the blade smoothly through food.
slices, aligning their edges, and make a second set of lengthwise cuts through the stack.
but also is safer to use. The more pressure you need to apply to the knife to cut food,
the more damage you can do with a slip of the blade. Using a cutting board made of
2
are long, rectangular cuts, such as for matchstick carrots or French fries. Cut a
or bread. Some slicers have an offset handle for a more comfortable grip, or a fluted
Keep the blades of your knives sharp and well honed. A sharp knife not only cuts better,
1
of a finished dish. Slice or chop the food at nearly regular intervals. The pieces need not
to mincing herbs to slicing meat. Their blades, 6 to 14 inches long, taper from sturdy
heels that can slice through small bones to thin tips that slice mushrooms smoothly.
is used for rustic dishes or for ingredients that will be puréed or strained out
3
Julienne should be very narrow, ⅛ inch. A wider cut, about ¼ inch, is called batonnet.
Straw (paille) is similar to julienne, but cut even more finely. Depending on the food
itself or your preference, the length can vary from 1 to 2½ inches.
produces small, neat cubes. Brunoise, the finest size (⅛ inch), is often used for
wood, plastic, or polyethylene helps preserve a knife’s edge. Cutting on metal, glass,
4 Dicing
or marble surfaces, on the other hand, will dull and eventually damage the blades. Store
a delicate garnish. Fine, medium, and large dice, ranging in size from ¼ inch to ½ inch
knives in racks or holders, not loose in a drawer where their blades may be damaged.
to ¾ inch, appear in a wide variety of preparations. To dice, cut the food lengthwise
4
into slices as thick as the dice you want. Stack these slices and slice again lengthwise to
Knife skills
Learning good knife skills makes for better finished dishes because precise, uniform cuts
allow ingredients to cook at the same rate. For most cutting, grip the knife high on the
handle, at the point where it meets the blade. This grip offers greater stability, control,
and balance than holding the handle farther away from the blade. Grasp the handle
with three fingers, resting your index finger and thumb flat against the blade on either
side. When chopping bones or cutting through harder foods, grip the handle with all
16
I NTRODUCTION
make strips. Gather the strips into a neat stack or line, then cut crosswise into dice.
5 Oblique or roll cut
is used with long, cylindrical vegetables such as carrots and celery,
especially if they will be braised or roasted. Make a diagonal cut to remove the stem
end. Holding the knife in the same position, roll the vegetable a half turn (180 degrees)
5
and slice again to create pieces with different angles at each end. Repeat to cut up the
rest of the vegetable.
are strips of leafy vegetables and herbs, chiffonade being a finer
four fingers and rest your thumb firmly along the top of the blade, close to where it
6 Shredding and chiffonade
meets the handle. For smaller knives, wrap all four fingers around the handle but leave
cut than shredded. Stack a few leaves and roll them tightly lengthwise. With a sharp
your thumb pressed against the side of the blade.
knife, make thin crosswise cuts. Before using the shreds, loosen them with your fingertips.
6
EQUIPMENT
17
Fennel and Orange Salad
2 fennel bulbs, trimmed and
cored
2 oranges
1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp olive oil
1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Thinly slice the fennel bulbs with a sharp knife or a mandoline. Cut
the skin from the oranges and cut the oranges into crosswise slices.
Whisk the lemon juice, olive oils, and salt and pepper to taste to
make a vinaigrette. Reserve 2 Tbsp of the parsley for garnish. Put the
fennel and remaining parsley in a bowl and toss with 3 Tbsp of the
vinaigrette.
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1
⁄ 2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
Makes 6 servings
Season the orange slices with salt and pepper. Drizzle them with the
remaining vinaigrette. Arrange the fennel and orange slices on chilled
plates and garnish with the reserved parsley.
When you buy fennel,
look for firm bulbs with no
scarring or gouges. The
tops should be firm with
feathery green fronds. Trim
away the tops at the top
of the bulb. Cut through the
bulb from the top through
the root end to make halves
or quarters. Slice the fennel
thinly across the grain.
making vinaigrette p. 250
Corn and Jícama Salad
2 cups fresh or thawed frozen
corn kernels, plus corn milk
if available (p. 192)
Toss together the corn and corn milk, if available, jícama, lime juice,
and cilantro in a serving bowl. Taste and season with cayenne, salt,
and black pepper.
2 cups finely diced jícama
1 Tbsp fresh lime juice
1 Tbsp minced fresh cilantro
1
⁄ 4 tsp ground cayenne pepper,
or to taste
Salt and freshly ground black
pepper
Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 12 hours before serving.
Jícama, a tropical tuber,
is roughly the size of a
grapefruit, with a dusty
brown skin. Inside, its flesh
is crisp and white, with
a mild flavor that marries
well with the sweet
corn and cilantro in this
refreshing summer salad.
preparing corn kernels
p. 186
dicing p. 17
Makes 6–8 servings
RECIPES
199
Fennel and Orange Salad
2 fennel bulbs, trimmed and
cored
2 oranges
1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp olive oil
1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Thinly slice the fennel bulbs with a sharp knife or a mandoline. Cut
the skin from the oranges and cut the oranges into crosswise slices.
Whisk the lemon juice, olive oils, and salt and pepper to taste to
make a vinaigrette. Reserve 2 Tbsp of the parsley for garnish. Put the
fennel and remaining parsley in a bowl and toss with 3 Tbsp of the
vinaigrette.
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1
⁄ 2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
Makes 6 servings
Season the orange slices with salt and pepper. Drizzle them with the
remaining vinaigrette. Arrange the fennel and orange slices on chilled
plates and garnish with the reserved parsley.
When you buy fennel,
look for firm bulbs with no
scarring or gouges. The
tops should be firm with
feathery green fronds. Trim
away the tops at the top
of the bulb. Cut through the
bulb from the top through
the root end to make halves
or quarters. Slice the fennel
thinly across the grain.
making vinaigrette p. 250
Corn and Jícama Salad
2 cups fresh or thawed frozen
corn kernels, plus corn milk
if available (p. 192)
Toss together the corn and corn milk, if available, jícama, lime juice,
and cilantro in a serving bowl. Taste and season with cayenne, salt,
and black pepper.
2 cups finely diced jícama
1 Tbsp fresh lime juice
1 Tbsp minced fresh cilantro
1
⁄ 4 tsp ground cayenne pepper,
or to taste
Salt and freshly ground black
pepper
Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 12 hours before serving.
Jícama, a tropical tuber,
is roughly the size of a
grapefruit, with a dusty
brown skin. Inside, its flesh
is crisp and white, with
a mild flavor that marries
well with the sweet
corn and cilantro in this
refreshing summer salad.
preparing corn kernels
p. 186
dicing p. 17
Makes 6–8 servings
RECIPES
199
Pizza Margherita
3
⁄ 4 cup warm (105–115°F) water
21⁄ 2 tsp (1 package) dry yeast
1 tsp honey
11⁄ 3 cups bread flour
1 cup semolina flour
1
⁄ 4 tsp salt
Vegetable oil for coating
Cornmeal for sprinkling
(optional)
Topping
1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp chopped fresh basil
1 tsp chopped fresh oregano
1 clove garlic, minced
Freshly ground pepper
1 cup tomato purée
4 plum (Roma) tomatoes, sliced
41⁄ 4 oz part-skim mozzarella,
thinly sliced
1
⁄ 4 cup grated Parmesan
Makes 4 individual pizzas or
1 large pizza
Combine the water, yeast, and honey in a large bowl. Stir in just
enough of the bread flour to make a batter about the consistency of
buttermilk. Cover and let proof in a warm place until the surface
is puffy, about 1 hour.
Add the remaining bread flour, the semolina flour, and the salt.
Knead in a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook on medium speed,
or by hand, until the dough is smooth, springy, and elastic, 4 minutes
with the mixer or 10 minutes by hand. Rub the dough lightly with
oil, place in a clean bowl, and cover with a cloth. Let the dough rise
at warm room temperature until doubled in volume, about
1½ hours.
Punch down the dough, sinking your fist into it to deflate it, and
divide into 4 equal pieces for individual pizzas or leave whole for
a large pizza. Form the dough into smooth ball(s), cover, and let
rise again until doubled in volume, 45–60 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Lightly oil a 16-inch pizza pan or a large
baking sheet with vegetable oil or scatter with cornmeal.
Avoid the temptation to add
too many toppings; a pizza
should be more bread than
topping. In fact, the basic
dough in this recipe may be
used to prepare a delicious
grilled bread as well as
the base for pizza. Shape
the dough as you would
for individual pizzas, and then
grill it over hot coals for
about 2 minutes on each
side, until it is blistered
and browned. After the
dough is turned, drizzle with
olive oil and scatter it
with fresh herbs such as
oregano, basil, thyme,
or rosemary.
roasting and baking
p. 30
On a lightly floured surface, roll and stretch out the ball(s) of dough
to an even ¼-inch thickness. If the dough has not relaxed properly,
it may spring back as you stretch it; simultaneously spinning and
stretching the dough will help. (This may be accomplished flat
on a work surface or by spinning and tossing it into the air, then
catching the disk on the back of your hands. Avoid tearing the dough
or creating very thin patches.) Transfer the dough round to the
prepared pan.
For the topping, mix together the olive oil, basil, oregano, garlic, and
pepper to taste. Spread this mixture evenly over the pizza dough.
Spread evenly with the tomato purée and top with the sliced tomatoes
and mozzarella. Scatter the Parmesan over the top.
Bake until the dough is golden brown and the toppings are very hot,
20–30 minutes for 1 large pizza or 10–12 minutes for individual
rounds. Cut into wedges and serve at once, or let cool for 5–10 minutes
and serve warm.
RECIPES
257
Pizza Margherita
3
⁄ 4 cup warm (105–115°F) water
21⁄ 2 tsp (1 package) dry yeast
1 tsp honey
11⁄ 3 cups bread flour
1 cup semolina flour
1
⁄ 4 tsp salt
Vegetable oil for coating
Cornmeal for sprinkling
(optional)
Topping
1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp chopped fresh basil
1 tsp chopped fresh oregano
1 clove garlic, minced
Freshly ground pepper
1 cup tomato purée
4 plum (Roma) tomatoes, sliced
41⁄ 4 oz part-skim mozzarella,
thinly sliced
1
⁄ 4 cup grated Parmesan
Makes 4 individual pizzas or
1 large pizza
Combine the water, yeast, and honey in a large bowl. Stir in just
enough of the bread flour to make a batter about the consistency of
buttermilk. Cover and let proof in a warm place until the surface
is puffy, about 1 hour.
Add the remaining bread flour, the semolina flour, and the salt.
Knead in a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook on medium speed,
or by hand, until the dough is smooth, springy, and elastic, 4 minutes
with the mixer or 10 minutes by hand. Rub the dough lightly with
oil, place in a clean bowl, and cover with a cloth. Let the dough rise
at warm room temperature until doubled in volume, about
1½ hours.
Punch down the dough, sinking your fist into it to deflate it, and
divide into 4 equal pieces for individual pizzas or leave whole for
a large pizza. Form the dough into smooth ball(s), cover, and let
rise again until doubled in volume, 45–60 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Lightly oil a 16-inch pizza pan or a large
baking sheet with vegetable oil or scatter with cornmeal.
Avoid the temptation to add
too many toppings; a pizza
should be more bread than
topping. In fact, the basic
dough in this recipe may be
used to prepare a delicious
grilled bread as well as
the base for pizza. Shape
the dough as you would
for individual pizzas, and then
grill it over hot coals for
about 2 minutes on each
side, until it is blistered
and browned. After the
dough is turned, drizzle with
olive oil and scatter it
with fresh herbs such as
oregano, basil, thyme,
or rosemary.
roasting and baking
p. 30
On a lightly floured surface, roll and stretch out the ball(s) of dough
to an even ¼-inch thickness. If the dough has not relaxed properly,
it may spring back as you stretch it; simultaneously spinning and
stretching the dough will help. (This may be accomplished flat
on a work surface or by spinning and tossing it into the air, then
catching the disk on the back of your hands. Avoid tearing the dough
or creating very thin patches.) Transfer the dough round to the
prepared pan.
For the topping, mix together the olive oil, basil, oregano, garlic, and
pepper to taste. Spread this mixture evenly over the pizza dough.
Spread evenly with the tomato purée and top with the sliced tomatoes
and mozzarella. Scatter the Parmesan over the top.
Bake until the dough is golden brown and the toppings are very hot,
20–30 minutes for 1 large pizza or 10–12 minutes for individual
rounds. Cut into wedges and serve at once, or let cool for 5–10 minutes
and serve warm.
RECIPES
257